slownrusty

I have had a few bad experiences over the years with not properly purging a cooling system. I used to do all the park in on a hill, jack up the front, watch for bubbles, watch the level the next day, then I said enough is enough and splurged and bought this tool: Cost me $75 hooks up to my compressor and works perfectly! No air even in my cooling system since I bought it and it comes with a variety of fittings to accomodate a huge range of rads. One of the best bangs for my buck ever! Yasin

Love it....boy do I love it......made my day! Yasin

Very sweet, very clean and impressive (the black ZX in the background on jackstands and the front spoiler looks menacing!.....have to admit though...lots of pulleys on the motor. Good luck and hope to see more updates. Yasin

Wow....impressive and beautiful....I'm looking forward to more updates, especially the motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering issues. By the way, if that's you in the pic with the white T-shirt, anyone tell you you look a bit like Ben Affleck (I mean that in a good way !) If that's your dad helping, that's cool. I wish my dad used to help me wrench... Good luck! Yasin

Hi Gang – Well after 10+years of ownership, I have sold my DR30 Skyline powered Datsun 720 truck. I had a very good offer on it and decided it was time to let it go to a good home. The truck has been sitting for many months in my garage with a car cover on it, and it only gets driven a few times per year, so I decided it was time to let sell it to someone who will enjoy it and actually drive it! Plus I have my AE86 project and my old Datsun Z project devouring my time. I have posted some pics of the truck over the years on here, but to give you some background. This is the first DR30 Skyline powered Datsun 720 truck in the U.S and has had three magazine features! The engine is the venerable Nissan chain driven 16V twin cam FJ20 engine code bored to 2.2L. I had the compression raised to 11.0:1, and added genuine FJ24 92.5mm pistons from the 240RS Rally Car (block was sleeved first). Then came a set of genuine TODA 10mm lift, 304 duration cams, a TODA 10lb flywheel, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and a set of NISMO headers with 2.5†stainless mandrel exhaust. Induction was handled by twin Mikuni PH44s and a genuine Sanyo Kiki intake with ball and socket linkage. I also added a huge oil cooler with a remote filter, twin electric fans, re-curved electronic distributor and a Jacobs ignition. At the same time, I installed a genuine NISMO close ratio 5peed from a S12 Silvia. Power conservatively estimated at 225hp, and pulls clean to 7grand. The truck sat low but very driveable and I lowered the front with Bell Tech drop spindles and turning down the torsion bars. In the rear I had Bell Tech blocks and removed a leaf from the leak suspension. Total drop in front was about 4†and 5†in the rear. Tokico Illumina shocks and poly urethane bushings all the way around too! Lots of neat exterior and detailed features, like a chrome 4x4 front grill, rechromed front bumper, door handles and bed tie downs, genuine Porsche 944 antenna and the PIAA foglights. I had Boyd Coddington cut me a set of completely custom 18†wheels and even had the man himself sign the letter when I bought the wheels. Tires were Yokohama Pradas. Interior was a full set of Autometer Phantom gauges and 300Zx power seats and the most kicking stereo you could imagine. Soundstream amps, subs, stiffening cap with a Pioneer head unit and 12disc changer. My uncle and I actually painted the entire truck 8years ago with a custom PPG metallic blue and many coats of clear that was water sanded afterwards. And trust me it turns heads…… I have the original bill of sale and I am only the second owner, the truck has genuine 77,530miles. The power and handling in a breath is awesome. Very fun and stable to drive and can sit for many hours at over 100mp/h (on pump gas). A unique vehicle that I enjoyed building and I truly put my heart and soul into it, I do not think there was not a bolt that was not turned or replaced. The truck really help establish me, and teach me a multitude about cars, going fast, what to do and not to do and how to spend $$$ ultra quickly as well!! The truck has gone to a good home in NY and I wish the new owner the absolute best. This is what it looked like when I bought the truck in 1994: During the build process: Completed: Regards - Yasin

This was a two month long project and required doing the project twice, as it was a trial and error project. There was absolutely no support and it seemed at the time that no one could help, not even the vendor who sold me the kit. This was a fairly frustrating project, especially as the car was down for so long. I used Tokico Illumina adjustable struts in front and race Tokico ProDraG in the rear imported from Japan. The coilovers on my car use 8†threaded sleeves with 200lb springs in front and 225lb springs in the rear. All the suspension pieces were removed from the car, sand blasted and the painted as well. At the same time I replaced my bushings with a full polyurethane set from Energy Suspension and upgraded the sway bars with Suspension Techniques 1 1/8†(front) and 7/8†rear. The car handles superbly and even though it rides a bit harsher than stock, it is worth it. High speed cornering is very sure footed, predictable and safe, a “must do†for an ZX car! Here are coilovers on my '83 ZXT. Rear: Testing the travel, with the spring all the way down: Front: The car really dumped: Hope that helps Regards - Yasin[/img]

They should be the same as any L20 rings, no? Which should be readily available at any Nissan dealership or decent car parts store. Regards - Yasin

Nice Caddy...is that what you mean?? Jus' kidding....I know you were referring to the sweet Suburban or was it the Mazda Tribute Ford Escape? Yasin

Afshin - Beautiful write up!!! I have been waiting for that bro. Did you get my email on the brakes? Now I have my next project lined up. Thanks again - Yasin

Looks like an amazing amount of work and $$ in that project - WOW! Very clean and very showy! Yasin

I used all -10 lines with 12" fittings when I plumbed my oil cooler set-up on my Turbo Corolla. What a project that was! My ZXT has 3/8" right now and I am going to upgrade that soon, as the power goes up. Although right now, my oil temps are in the perfect zone. Yasin

Yup 255 will fit no probs, from what I see. But wow that's some meat in the front. Yasin

Wow...neat tranny, I like the shifter mechanism with the rod - very slick. It does look beefy. How will it be adapting the bellhousing to the RB? Yasin

Hope that helps. Price around $140 at Summit Racing Yasin

Good lord! Now that is an IC! I just about fell out of me seat! I now have Intercooler envy.....thanks! Yasin

The rivets and the metal is staying, as this is the foundation for the whole piece being added, if I was to removed them the spoiler would fall apart a black down the road. I actually do not mind the look fo the rivets, as it gives the car a very industrial JDM look. I spaced the rivets out so they are all uniform and I also ground down each head a bit to make them lower profile. Regards - Yasin

3.0" exhaust for sure....don't kid yourself, this is the no.1 thing to do, even if you were to never touch your car ever again. Inexpensive as well. Yasin

Hi Gang - Well I bought this Toyota spoiler off eBay and had to spend much time significantly modifying to fit my old Corolla. I now have over 30hours invested in this thing! It was advertized incorrectly on eBay and I was still able to get it cheaply, and I was determined to make it work. Well here are my follow up pics of all the fiberglass work completed on the spoiler. I wanted to use fiberglass as opposed to Bondo. As fiberglass is strong and light and would add to the overall integrity of the spoiler. I decided to try a compound called "Duraglas" which has all the glass fibers already added and mixed in with it and is MUCH easier to use and work than the regular old fiberglass. Regular fiberglass is a pain, and you always end up with glass fibers under your skin itching you for a week! And Bondo has a reputation to crack over time. I was introduced to Duraglas by a friend who owns a bodyshop and I recommend it highly! It is ONLY available from an AutoBody Paint and Supply store, it is not available at PepBoys, Advance etc etc. IT is inexpensive $12 for a quart incl. the cream hardener. The Duraglas is pretty easy to work and temps should be above 60F for perfect and quick curing. For mixing you need to add a nickel size amount of the white cream hardener to a 1.5" high baseball size amount of the Duraglass, you have to ensure that you mix it thoroughlly! I used a clean steel spoon mixing inside a Rubbermaid plastic container and mixed it violently for a few minutes. After the mixing, apply the Duraglas with a spatula, use tape if you do not want any excess spilling over on the sides and then wait for it to cure. I waited until the next day and I thoroughlly sanded it with 80grit sandpaper. Naturally the Duraglass will be very hard and have sharp edges and look ugly prior to sanding but the end results look fantasitc. I will use a metallic based body fill finisher to fill any small voids left by the Duraglas and then make sure that everything is perfectly smooth, sanded and even before the paint goes on (which happens next week). Here is the spoiler before applying the Duraglas, the gap to be filled is aprox 3/8" deep (maybe a bit less). I had to make this gap as the spoiler was 5" too short on each side and I made a new "bridged piece" from sheet metal and riveted it on : Here is the Duraglas with the Cream Hardener: Here are the basic tools you need: Here is the cured Duraglass ready to be sanded, note the tape used for masking and catching the spill over: During the sanding process with 80grit (kiss your finger nails good bye!) After sanding, small pits and voids to be filled with a professional grade a metallic based body fill finisher: So if you have rust or a dent or any body repairs hope that helps! Regards - Yasin

Looks great and great discovery. Let us know how the car rides, feels and handles when you have it back together. Regards - Yasin

My question exactly...how do they fit? Also where do the turbos bolt to? I see the Wastegate flange (looks like it will accomodate a 35-38mm size?) What is the ball park price? Yasin

Redline on the 4AG is 7,300rpm! Not bad for a 20year old engine.

Simply incredible! Congrats...I tip my hat to you... Yasin

Tec280 - you just beat me to the punch, I was just about to host and post the pics for TBS. Looks great! Regards - Yasin

Wow...VERY rare finding one of those on our soil. That would be a great car to have, but I would be scared driving it and having some once back into it or do some body damage. That car would take alot of dedicated time and $$$ to restore it, it looks to be in a pretty advanced stages of rust as the selelr says the floors are rotted out. The car is bigger than the 510 more in line with the size of 710. I wonder what the reserve is set at? I say go for it, if you want a unique and challenging project. Regards - Yasin

Bone stock 20year old Corolla, still able to light 'em up. 4AG engine BTW - one of the best twin cam 16V 4cylinders of all time. Enjoy! http://ul.zsh.net/kristian30/ae86_burn_1.mpg Yasin