slownrusty

Just recently installed Arizona Z Car 6 piston calipers on the front. Very straight forward installation and this was a complete kit with stainless new brake lines. Bleeding was straight forward and did not even take that long. The data: The stock cast caliper is 12lbs, the 6 piston Wilwood with the bracket is: 2.5lbs The Wilwood rotor with the aluminum hat is 310mm in diameter and weighs about 16lbs (about 6lbs more than the stock rotor) I have not really tested the increased braking ability as I am waiting for the pads to bed in but will report back. Pics. Stock Yasin

Amazing!!!

I waited all week to watch this video and was disappointed. The Video narrator ruined it for me from wrong wheel PCD to not providing any real details of the engine to calling the headlights "LED" etc etc. I also have a hard time believing it is 360hp, it did not sound like a high compression big cam engine. The TWM TBs and individual coils are impressive as is the A\C. Certainly a well built car and beautifully presented, I am fascinated with fasteners and this car certainly is a true nut and bolt build. Yasin

Glad to hear he is doing well. You are welcome to come by anytime!

That looks great bro! How is grandpa doing?

Thanks Jeff!

OMG...So terribly sad...sorry to read this....I hope insurance does well by you....

Who's stand was this on?

Thanks for the great advice Jeff. I appreciate it. Yasin

Thanks guys. So I ended up buying Red Line 75W90 and will report back, the consensus from your responses plus some additional research is that it is the recommended oil for these R200 LSD diff. Maybe I should have titled my thread "Recommended Diff Oil For A R200 Z31 CLSD"..rather than "Best". My best, Yasin

Rule #4 is the stupidest thing I have ever read.

Rebekah - What oil do you use?

Thanks guys! I am leaning towards Red Line with the added friction modifier. John C - Can you expalin your post...not sure I understand your response.

I have searched and searched and it seems like you ask 10 people and you get 10 different answers. What do you guys recommend? Thanks! Yasin

I also recommed PowerFab they are just off FM 1960 and Jones Road (N-W-ish Houston). I use them frequently and they have done some incredible work on Datsuns over the years.

Thanks J, when are you coming for a visit?

But of course! Being a single guy, I can get away with it. Lets see I have diff Covers and a valve cover on the kitchen Counter, a new ball bearing turbo on the kitchen table and a rear spoiler on the dining room table. Ahhh...good times

I also was able to obtain some sweet and beautifully (precision) custom made stainless subframe cross member bushings from my good friend FricFrac (which came with rubber insulators). To install them required buying a pair of special pair of 14mm bolts (150mm length x 1.5mm pitch), the factory bolt is a weird taped bolt that is fat in the middle and transitions from 14mm to 12mm in overall diameter. Also to install the custom stainless bushing will require drilling out the subframe bracket stay from 12mm to 14mm (see picture below). Also thanks to JeffP as his website was extremely helpful (hope all is well Jeff!). Quick visual inspection of the Z31 LSD diff and a gasket replacement as well as new axle seals and the new poly urethane bushings installed in the control arms: I also purchased an aluminum drive shaft which is about 3.5lbs lighter than stock: Please note that you have to transfer the Companion or Pinion flange from the 280ZX R200 diff over the to Z31 Diff to re-use your 280ZX driveshaft. Removal of this flange requires an impact gun and a 27mm socket and re installation you have to be very careful not to over torque the 27mm bolt as you will cook the bearings in the diff eventually. I used very small bursts in the impact and kept turning the entire assembly by hand to make it was not getting too tight, if it does start to tighten up or get notchy back out the 27mm a smidge until the tightness goes away. The final torque is around 100lbs.ft (less than the FSM) and I used red Loctite on the 27mm bolt.

In the mean time I came across a rare gem Greddy R200 cover that I had to have and make work with my Z31 rear end. It would require modifying the stock rear end R200 bracket by extending it (from the red lines) and adding "ears" to it, this was done with a TIG welder to control the heat and localize the welding to not affect the rubber in the new bracket / insulator and done by the talented guys at PowerFab here in Houston (the Greddy cover was also purchased from them). This was definitely the bling in the project. The Greddy cover required two spacers or washers to bring the mounting point back to the stock geometry, here I am checking it against the stock cover with a level:

So I started this project back in late August and will finally finish it this weekend (tomorrow). I went from this: to this: Even though I know my car well (after almost 13 years of ownership), I have never touched the rear end or subframe until August of this year. I enjoyed this project, although the lifting was very heavy for one person and tricky with one pair of hands - but "do-able". This thread is intended as a step by step for anyone attempting to rebuild their 280ZX rear end or installing a Z31 LSD, so happy reading! Step 1: After you secure your car on jack stands and remove the wheels. There are several ways to proceed, remove the axles and diff by itself or the entire rear subframe with everything attached as one large heavy piece including the diff and axles. At first I was going to just install the Z31 LSD diff and new A-Arm \ sub-frame bushings and be done in one weekend and then the slope got slippery very quickly and turned to 2+ months of work. In the picture below I removed the axles by using double open ended wrenches to separate the axles from the hubs (12mm bolts, 6 per side). To remove the axles from the diff requires a good tug due to the C-clip on the diff end or gentle persuasion from a pry bar and the axles come right out, also have removed the lower shock bolt: Axles out and to the left of the picture below you can see the hand made 3.5" mandrel exhaust, which I had made to route under the left axle. Step 2: Disconnect the 4 drive shaft bolts to the diff Companion or Pinion Flange, these have factory blue Loctite on them Step 3: Disconnect all the rear brake lines including the e-brake, paying extremely close how the ebrake is routed and hooked up as it pivots on some interesting and neat bracketry If you like you can remove the R200 rear end by iteself by loosening the 4x17mm long bolts and nuts that connect it to the subframe (in red), this will also remove one exhaust supporting bracket If you are dropping the subframe to replace the bushings the main bushing bolt is located behind the front seats: You will have to also remove the subframe locator brackets which is a three hole bracket and takes very little time, after that the entire subframe will slip down, have your floor jack centrally placed to lower slowly. Voila! Everything out: A quick snap of my rear coilover and Walbro 255lph fuel pump Starting dis-assembly on my work table: Step 4: Subframe / cross member Bushing Removal Puller, Map Gas and Impact gun does the trick the best: Step 5: Completely dis-assembled I wrote a procedure on how to remove the steel sleeves from the control arms here (pain in the butt that was): http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114778-completely-humbled-wow-280zx-rear-control-arm-bushing-removal-pics/?hl=%2Bbushing+%2Brear+%2Bcontrol Everything removed that I wanted powder coated, 30 years old and 147,000 miles, parts are beginning to show their age: I chose a metallic silver as my color of choice for Powder Coating, and two weeks later, looking good:

Extremely fair price and great to see another shop supporting our cars. Awesome, is all I have to say.

Reading this just brought me to my knees. Ross and I are the same age (and similar engineering background / education) and even though it has been years since I spoke with him, I had no idea his health had declined. Such a sad thing to read and truly shows how precious life is. Rest in Peace. Yasin

I refuse the drill the car, so plan on just using the 3M tape

Beautiful SDgoods

^^^^ Damn! Awesome...more pics please.