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slownrusty

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Everything posted by slownrusty

  1. Looks great buddy. I have yet to start the fiberglass work on mine to make it properly fit, it is pretty high on my "to-do" list. Are you using 3M automotive tape to stick it down?
  2. I already have a set of solid stainless subframe bushings from the very cool FricFrac. For $200 you got a sweet deal! Wow. Yasin
  3. Well gang, back working on my ZXT after a very long hiatus and I guess the punishment for neglecting the old girl was received this weekend. For the most working on this car has been a delight and well within my abilities but this weekend I got my royal a $ $ handed to me . I dropped the entire rear sub frame, diff, axles, brakes and control arms to freshen everything up and install a Z31 LSD. Dropping the rear sub frame with everything connected was cake compared to removing the inner control arm metal sleeves in preparation to install a set of Poly Urethane bushings. i am writing this thread to serve as a guideline to anyone who will be attempting this major ordeal. Firstly you have to remove these sleeves to install the new Poly Urethane bushings, otherwise the new schmancy bushings will not fit. The metal sleeves are pressed into the control arms and after 30 years of harmony in the car have assumed a matrimonial union with the control arm. Secondly you CANNOT use a hydraulic press to remove these sleeves, the hydraulic press will actually bend the control arm and distort them and completely screw up your car. Thirdly you cannot use a puller or socket and a BF hammer either. The *ONLY* way to remove these PITA things is to carefully and surgically cut them out in pieces. You will need these basic tools: 1) A Sawzall with a good metal blade 2) Two chisels 3) 5 -7 lb sledge MC Hammer 4) MAP gas 5) Some PB Blaster 6) 23mm socket 7) Dremel with a cutting wheel Here is the hell hath no fury metal sleeve that you have to dance with, in the picture below I have started making one longitudinal slice with my Sawzall Then I made four longitudinal slices with my Sawzall, being ULTRA careful to not cut the control arm! Afterwards using a Dremel I made one careful circumferential inner cut perpendicular to the Sawzall cuts: Afterwards brute force with a Chisel and Sledge being careful to not damage the inner side of the control arm and remove the inner sleeve in pieces: First inner piece removed below: Four inner pieces removed below (this took almost 30 minutes to get to this point!) Do the same on the opposing side and after remove the other side in four pieces, then spray PB Blaster and let it soak down behind the remaining section of inner sleeve which will be in the middle of the control arm and then heat the crap out of it with the MAP gas, after that you can take a 23mm socket and your handiest of dandiest Sledge MC Hammer and whack away until this mid section of sleeve pops out. It took me about 8-10 hours to remove just these sleeves!!! And very frustrating....so hope this helps y'all. Grrr...I hate these: Ready to be powder coated and then new Urethane bushings pressed in: Like so: My weekend: All disassembled ready for new bushings, powder coat and new LSD! Cheers - Yasin
  4. Jessica was bouncing! Great video, looks like she was holding on for dear life. Its a shame the driver in the videos are fully belted or harnessed but the ladies are not.
  5. I am using Dave's radiator from Arizona Z Car its been in my car for 4+ years and has run flawlessly, my car never gets over 180F, I am also using twin 10" Flex-A-Lite Electric fans that are thermostatically controlled.
  6. Thanks guys. I will remove the rear cover and certainly check the backlash and then fill with oil and report back in. Cheers! Yasin
  7. Hey Gang - So I decided to get back to work on my ZX, after a huge hiatus and damn excited too. First order of business is to install a Z31 LSD that I had in a box for 7 years! It actually saw the light for the first time today and I noticed that it makes a "clunk" when you turn the companion flange by hand, is this normal? I will say it turns smoothly. Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxzZET1In5Y Is this normal, I am new to the world of LSDs, so any help is appreciated. Thanks! Yasin
  8. Laughing..gotta love auto correct!
  9. That was a sad day for us gearheads. Simmons were (still are) beautiful custom wheels, back in the day you were the "man" if you had three piece Simmons on your car.
  10. I am not answering your question specifically but the cheapest bang for your buck is to get a NA ZX tranny and driveshaft and for about $100 at the bone yard and within two hours you can be up and running again. I ran the NA ZX tranny on my modified ZXT and drove it hard for many years when my BW T5 had shifting issues and it held up beautifully and shifted super smooth. Seems like the BW T5 have these inherent issues as they get older and the miles rack up. Regards - Yasin
  11. Wow..beautiful build and fantastic car. Well deserved and congratulations.
  12. Thats looks beautiful. Excellent fab work and welding as Lance mentioned the pie-cuts are fabulous.
  13. Great Thread. Last summer I was bored and fired up the angle grinder and did a lot of surgery on my rear bumper (4+ hours of surgery) to remove about 8-10lbs, I will have to find the pictures and post it tonight when I am home. Other areas where I saved weight: 1) Carbon Fiber Hood (weighs 11lbs) from John C at Beta Motorsports (20lbs weight saving) 2) Removed the front bumper entirely (not sure on the weight saving ) 3) Saved about 3-4 lbs per corner converting the car to coilovers 4) Saved about 10lbs by removing the factory seats and installing Corbeaus (left and right) 5) Removed the heavy cast iron manifold, catalytic converter and heavy exhaust system and replaced it all with stainless and 3lb Burns muffler 6) Removed the factory air box 7) Saved 15lbs by running an aluminum flywheel At the same time, I picked weight with: 1) Bigger wheels and tires 2) Front mount intercooler 3) Heavier \ larger front and rear sway bars Regards - Yasin
  14. Fabulous, car sounds like it has big muscles
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