duragg

A little update. I switched to some big-daddy DCOE45-152 carbs with 40mm chokes and now my L28 pulls easily to 8000RPM. With this higher RPM my 2nd gear crunch is back if I rush the 1-2 shift. Remember I did not do the modification to the 1-2 synchro, just the 2-3 and 3-4. I was not able to get any crunching on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift even when pushing hard at extreme RPM. I am pretty confident that if I pulled the tranny and modified the 1-2 synchro key spacing I would fix that crunch. But that ain't happening anytime soon... Tj

I tried F16 years ago and could never make them work so I went back to my F11. My new DCOE45s came with F16 and so now I have a dozen useless F16s. More than just qualtity of fuel and air mixed into emulsion is the quality and method by which they combine. I found from my own research years past the F11 worked *For Me*. When I setup these 45s tonight the first thing I did was shitcan the stock jet loading from Weber and switched to the stuff Rebello had sent. Pushed the button and Vroom,.. started right up and made great pulls. I need one bigger idle and one smaller main and I will be 95% done. This is a FAR FAR cry in ease of setup with these new 45s from the last 10 YEARS I spent ******* around with the DCOE40-151 which required extensive modification to make them run almost as well as these new 45-152s did on the first day running.

Just as a backup plan if I cannot swing the 40s, I will have something more reasonable since I don't have a lot of time before Saturday. I am going to see how things work tonight, hopefully I can at least get it running and work on dialing in the next few days. I have been assured by Rebello that with my cam, engine and other specs they will work swimmingly and if they don't it is purely a result of my lack of manly fortitude. Fair enough I guess. TJ

There is a TON of 280z and ZX for sale and part-out in Phoenix. Check Craigslist here. Tj

Can you find a used 77 sender? I followed another Hybridz thread to calibrate my 73 sender to my Equus (GM?) gauge with a 350ish ohm resistor. There is a website where you can calculate what is needed: http://www.1728.org/resistrs.htm Example, I think my Z is a 90ohm empty signal and I needed to add a 360ohm resistor to make the final signal at the gauge the 73ohm it wanted to see to read zero. Going from memory, just an example. Tj

Nice work. You got the 32 chokes for cheap or free right? Anything north of 14 is exceedingly lean (LOP) for full power. Try your next bigger main jet and clean them all again while at it. I might need to borrow your 36 chokes... take them to work with you today? Else I could find you tonight.

And they said it couldn't be done... behold: or wait, they might have said it shouldn't be done. I wasn't paying attention again.

Ended up installing the ArizonaZCAR radiator and spent all weekend sealing and ducting my inlet. Went back to my unshrouded mechanical fan and installed a controversial hood vent. This car has become a track only car so my need is cooling at speed. Will know for sure this weekend after the Saturday HPDE event here in Phoenix.

Nothing as exciting, sorry. I gave the order and VanManSam did the cutting and install. The heart was spray painted by a certain fellow pilot we call Weasel months ago; he'll pay for that.

Yes, yes. I was thinking the same thing. I will do that tomorrow and repost Tj

Finished my hood scoop. My only goal was to assist in getting hot air OUT.. 280ZX turbo scoop in reverse with slight mods. I beat to my own drum, so don't get bent around the venturi with the effectiveness of reverse submerged NACA extractor coefficient .. We think it looks neat.

With a Magnum PI cameo!

Some sensors sending load or resistance, others binary (more than 160f / lower). I suspect something like MS is expecting a clean signal, any noise cpild make it angry. Especially for a variable signal, go dedicated.

I don't have the adapter. But that should be easy. A real "forward" radiator might work. Tj

Thats a neat idea. Spin up a section of tube and weld some bungs in it for all the sensors a man could want.

Guess the one I bought for $450 was indeed a smoking deal. I kept: Crank, Main cap bolts Flywheel bolts Oil pump Water pump Block Intake

Once i removed the water pump it fit the L28 fine. Except was about 1/4" away from the single row crank pulley.

I think those are ZX guys (not anything wrong with that...) But the Taurus fan from tip of fan hub, to back of motor cover sits about 1" into the water pump. I even removed radiator and water pump to see if I could mount it and cut holes in the shroud to make pump fit recessed into the shroud. Nah, it no fit. But man it blows some air! Just listed my NEW unused fan, Volvo relay and BMW switch on Phoenix Craigslist.

I do a little flying for fun and a little for work (which is still fun). I bought and installed an Arizona Zcar radiator today and abandoned any hope of running the mighty Taurus fan. But is sure is fun to hook up to the battery...

I bought a really cool distribution block from a car stereo place. It has a cover and all which is required for some racing applications. Now I have BIG wire from my Alternator to battery and a BIG power supply ready for my next fan du-jour... Please visit my "Museum of Fan Failure" I shall now retreat gracefully with my visa bill in hand and revisit the search function. I just KNOW I am going to get called to the Moderators office for this screwup.

On account of the Taurus fan no-way fitting in front on an L6 I turned on the drinkin light early... Contact me for the forthcoming sale of collected parts You may begin scathing personal attacks now. Reminder to self: search first

I like your idea of the big terminal distribution center. If I read correctly you are running a big feed from battery to starter and battery to Distribution Center? From Alternator to Dist Center AND Alt to Batt? How are those runs protected from short? My car now has +Batt direct to starter, block to Gnd, Alternator to Starter I guess there is no protection there? Or am I missing something.

200rpm at idle? What engine and setup do you have?

Are you sure about the Air Corrector? Just for grins, I would pull all of them and verify what you have. Typically the AIR is 40-50 higher than the Main. Its good to check them all and re-seat as we did at your garage and clean them again anyways. Fuel jet adds fuel: aka: "Quantity" Air jet adds air. aka: "Quantity" They mix in the emulsion tube. aka: "Quality" How exactly they mix inside the emulsion tube and at what rate, early , late, fast, slow, big, small is all the mystery of the Emulsion tubes. There is extensive discussion of this on Yahoo Group: Sidedraft Central. Including one person who is making / made new Emulsion Tubes. Pandorra got out, eh?

Well I was trying to use the fancy BMW dual-temp switch which is supposed to go Stage 1 at 80c and Stage 2 at 90. It has M14x1.5mm threads. Tony what do you mean hose mounting? You mean one of the bulbs that goes into the hose and water stream? I have now 3 distinct kits in my hand 1) Push into the radiator kind which is even too hokey for my bad taste, 2) Bulb in radiator to a variable controller kit which still seems kinda hokey, 3) Threaded sensor which goes into the T-stat housing or the block somewhere. Like all simple things there are 500 options and 15 setbacks. Example, the URO BMW 2 temp switch marked 80/90 is actually kicking on at 90/100. I am thinking at the hottest temp spot-the Tstat housing is still the best location if I can get a temp sensor that works as it should.