duragg

How old was Ross? Sad to hear going that fast. Getting older, life seems a whole lot different nowdays.. and thats OK. Tom

Thanks I would appreciate that

The test; Setup that lean cruise at 2500-3000 rpm and then push in the clutch and note the RPM at which the engines stabilizes without movng throttle: 5000, 6000, whatever. Now when back in the garage in neutral you can recreate the position and identify the exact butterfly position which will tell you a lot about who is or isn't doing what or whatnot.. Often the last prog-port is a little reachy from the main giddyup. Bigger idle jet, might help. But we keep looking for the Super-soaker idle jet to fix problems related to less than perfect prog-port placement.

I ended up buying the screens. They are made by "BBR Racing" fwiw and they have a good website. I didn't take pics, sorry. AZGhost: 15 at WOT is way lean (backside or power curve). Fix that with MAIN jet first-is what I would do. Cruise at 13 is fine and safe. Fix ALL the jetting and setup related stuff first, prog ports very last . I did buy the drilling fixture so we can do that someday.

Might as well add to this old thread vs Starting new. 1973 240z on a major diet as it becomes a track only car. Each door stock was about 66lbs if I remember (includes probably 8 coats of paint and 40 years of dried juice and jam inside there). Drivers door getting Nascar Bars so I removed the inner beam and got a final weight of about 29lbs with hinges and the empty window frame. They are pretty flimsly and don't close well so I will reinforce once the jungle-gym is installed.

For the record I have a 1982 5 speed in pieces I am just keeping for spares if there are trades to be had

Don't the dampers dampen some of the relative vibrations between the crank and accessories too? Akin to motor mounts or clutch springs allowing differently mounted and acting components to all live in harmony and each allowed to do its own thing and not transmit as much negative energy to adjacent components. Sorta like TonyD putting just a slight damping on himself (Very impressed and duely noted btw Mr D.) I hear birds chirping! Huh? (edit.. Eh, now I feel like I am missing something Tony.. Kinda like an all Christian Reddit. Just not the same).

Yup. That is what I have for today (going away tomorrow). 6-1 headers with MSA Twice Pipes and glass packs, nothing else. Raspy higher pitched tone that gets many compliments. Tj

Glad you are making process amigo. Look forward to doing some driving with you soon. You don't need to tell you wife about this since it is technically just a "Repair" and not a "New Purchase". Glad to help

Man I got lucky...

8799PT seems to indicate for an L28e motor The 21157PT1 for a plain L28. For guys like us with Hybrid assemblies it may not matter (L28 block / L28e head). Order them both from Orielly, compare, return one and report back! Sorry about the hassles. Doc will get it running. If the vendor that did all this is indeed a bad player, then you are being too nice by not calling it by name

Looking for a 5th main gear and 5th counter gear and the related syncro bits Needs to be 19/31 teeth from a 1977-1980 fs5w71b

I tend to need a wide shoe. Anybody else with a big contact patch find one brand more comfortable than the other?

On mine I just pulled out the little clip what allows the dizzy CAP to only go in one way and moved it to the other side. This way the little Cyl1 mark is still in the right place.

So what's it from? Definitely didn't look like an 83. If you can post the counter gear teeth counts I can compute all the ratios and make an image of the speeds / gears. Reference a previous thread I started just a few weeks ago.

PS... having done about 6 trannys this year, you will find disappointment in all the rebuild kits. Check fitment before removing seals and stuff. Half the stuff they send doesn't fit when I use the kits. You can also measure the dimension per the FSM and maybe your synchro is just fine and can be re-used if NLA.

I just rebuilt several 280ZX FS5W71B from 1982 and 1983 models. In the later trannys rings 1-4 are interchangeable. #5 is a smaller size. Your close-ratio doesn't look like mine. Count the teeth on that 1st gear and counter gear? Its been years since I have had a 1977 apart and don't remember. In the website picture I think the 5th gear is part number 33, 35,37 one of those is the 5th gear synchro.

Its funny as I shimmed mine for 60 or 70 lbs and never hear a peep from it. Used 1 bottle of FM. I just changed to a different juice and won't drive again till next season starts. The gears whine during light throttle, but that's about it. Guess they are all a little different.

Having done my cutting / fitting for Tokicos adjustable... once they blow up would be neat if a Koni or other more race-oriented shock would fit in the exact same hole. Or am I cutting and re-welding again?

I just stripped my TC Box areas and some frame rail stuff with "Aircraft Stripper" aerosol can and was pleased with the result. Only thing I don't like about mechanical removal like sandpaper is that it leaves virtually invisible witness marks, until the final paint is on and they they stand out like a christmas tree. I soda blasted my old S30 with good results. But I saw another example which completely ruined the roof. Messy either way.

We rebuilt a friends tranny this weekend (83 FS5W71B) and did all the key slots in the synchros. New Nissan Brass rings all had about .165" meat from the bottom of the key slot to the face of the brass ring flange. Trimming those all down to about .150" seemed to create the desired alignment. Hopefully he gets it installed soon for testing. T j

Great fun. MANY MANY days I spent as a kid on that same road in a 48hp VW Rabbit having the time of my life. Thanks for the trip up memory lane. PS... much was dirt back in my days which made that skinny tire rabbit almost fun.

Sounds like your tuning is coming along. I found when I had a wideband that the nature of a "bog" was often not what it seemed. What I thought was lean due to small accel jets was actually splashing the Wideband to sub-10 AFR. And what I thought was too rich in progression and transition was actually lean from bad prog-port placement and long reach from prog to mains. The wideband made it all painfully obvious and when the sensor finally died and the car was performing well enough I didn't replace the sensor for a while and lived quite peacefully in that region. The Sidedraft Central forum and the FAQ (All who live for) should be read frequently as there are small gems inside all of that. I did quite well with my 40s on 34 chokes and made fine power. At one track I would max out 3rd gear at the end of the straight prior to braking. Later I put on the 45s with 40 chokes and at the end of that same straight I was most of the way through 4th gear. Measurable, yes. Awe inspiring, not as much. When my next head is done the 45s will be put to better use. Leon: Thank you for putting it all in context with respect to conversing as if face to face and the Hybridz rules mention this in the last sentence. Very well put. Tom.

Heck Mike, just do a "thumb compression" right now and you will know if there is a dead hole. Turning a motor slowly by hand with all plugs out and intake open you can feel how the rings suck and blow. Usually tells me more than any of my compression testers do (And i have a bunch). The ones we use for aircraft use compressed air which let's you listen at intake, exhaust and breather to determine your fate. Thanks for documenting your build, as we've discussed it has been my blueprint lately.

/\That there is a great starting point! I've made a few purchases like this, knowing that if things weren't as I expected the blame was mine alone. GLWP, will await pictures.