duragg

You will learn a ton with the 40s and down the road you can apply that knowledge to some 45s when the budget is ready. I have a big aftermarket vacuum resevoir kit which helps at idle, along with header wrap, blankets, shields and venting. I have the double rubber o-ring anti vibe mounts and secretely hate them. Tried every o-ring, Thackery washers, the Pierce Manifold rubber washers, no washers. I've read many posts of racers that delete them. Since I am mostly done being a street car I may do this.

This thread helpful. I am tempted to go Ultrashield VS Halo, but concerned about egress with cage. Ultrashield rally or road race also options.. Project creep in force now.

Yes. Good eye. I see that now. So a 1977-1980 5th gear would help that 4-5 reach a little for non-highway use. Thanks for pointing that out. I like the 1983 for the reverse-threaded main shaft nut. I have a 1981 / 1982 5 speed in pieces which has same ratios but not the reverse nut. My apology to the Moderators for "reporting" this post instead of just asking it to be moved. But thanks either way for moving it. Tj

I hope I did this right,,, going by above data I tried to capture each configuration. 1) Stock 1983 5 speed (for racing the 4-5 is a little long) 2) 1983 5 speed with 1977 Overdrive gears (not bad actually..) 3) Norms 1st configuration above 4) Norms 2nd configuration above 5) Norms 3rd configuration above COULD A MODERATOR PLEASE MOVE To THE DRIVETRAIN SECTION Pleeze?

Buying these. How cool..

Stripped interior again for cage install.

Sneezing = Lean.

Eat em up brother! I'm stripped waiting to start cage on Monday Thx for ur help on the safety gear too!

From Norm (the legendary 12 second SU dude): Subject: SECRET TRANNY RATIOS REVEALED Author: norm () Date: 12-10-1998 14:06 Okay, I'm sure that this isn't a total secret, but I'm willing to bet 95% have never heard this one.Here's the deal, you can put a 74 260 4 speed trans. input shaft and front countershaft gear on an 81-83 5 speed and get some killer low end acceleration .The stock ratios are as follows. 3.06 1.858 1.308 1.00 .745 MODIFIED Ratios 3.70 2.245 1.58 1.00 .90 You run hard out of the hole with this setup but you do have a less than perfect gap on the 3rd to 4th shift.However I think this is a killer setup for autocrossers where speed doesn't go over 75, that is when you have to shift if you are running a 3.9 and 195/60 14 tires(If you shift at 7100 rpm).I liked this for 1/8 mi. drags, but unfortunately I had to shift to 4th gear about 90 ft from finish line and I didn't like the possibility of a missed shift costing me a race.However this would be great combo for someone with less hp because they would cross finish line in 3rd gear. Okay, the next setup is what I am currently running in my 240 .This setup works better for 1/4 mile drags because the 3rd to 4th gear gap is better.Take an input shaft and front countershaft gear from a 75-79 5 speed and put it on the 81-83 5 speed and you get this setup. 3.42 2.07 1.46 1.00 .8326 Either of these setups really improves the drivability of any Z car and would really help accelerate a heavy 280 zx off the line without having to resort to a high rpm clutch drop to spin the tires up to the engines powerband. The last combo is this one. .Take the 81-83 input shaft and cs gear and put them on a 79 5 speed and you get this setup 2.98 1.85 1.17 1.00 .77 I guess this would work well with a4.11 to 4.44 rear diff and would give an ultra close shift from 3rd to 4th.I have not tried this combo yet. If you drag race and don't run slicks or street legal drag tires you will not reap the full benefits with the first two optional tranny combos.Good 60 ft times are essential to quick e.t.s and the first setup works terrific with sticky tires.I managed a 1.84 sec 60 ft with Nitto street drag slicks.This was done with an open 3.9 diff and the nittos spun hard off the line.With real good slicks and limited slip rear I am positive low 1.70 sec 60 ft times are possible. If anyone out there knew about this let me know. Because it took me 9 yrs of zzzing before it dawned on me!!!!

22 and 37 doesn't do it either. See below. I guess the question becomes what sort of 5th gear teeth are available. We know early: 19/31 with .7097 main ratio = .863ish We know late: 26/44 with .7931 main ratio = .745ish Probably needs to be moved to a Drivetrain section and not the For Sale.

Here is the little spreadsheet I made. If the Main / Counter gear remain unchanged, the only variable is the counting on the 5th teeth right.

I made a little spreadsheet with all the varios Main and C/G ratios and the 5th gear ratios. It looks like there are 2 Main / Counter ratio styles and 2 5th gear styles. Even if I swapped the older 5th gear it only takes my .745 to a .773. Only way for me to get to an .864 is to use the earlier style main and counter gear which loses the close-ratio-ness. So may not be a way to do this. If you email me I can send the spreadsheet. TJ

Thx. Recall the 1983 i have now has the highway friendly .745 overdrive. The 77-79 has the .864 ratio which I now want for track use. I need to review the gear teeth counts to see if this will even work. I have a 1982 5 speed in pieces which I use for test work.

Looking for an early 5th gear and accompanying counter-gear to adapt to my 1983 5 speed for track use. Like to end up with a much shorter 5th. So for the historical record, this started as a WTB post with me looking for a particular 5th gear and Countergear. Morphed into a discussion of various years of trannies.

Depending on which group you may be In-Tech with stock.

I need those domed DCOE screens but dang / $50 per carb makes me want to find a DIY solution. Mostly trying to keep the little ribbons of racing slicks from being consumed.

Finished my last event of the season thrashing the holy crap out of my Z at the amazing Inde Motorsports Ranch in Willcox, AZ Every single 2->3 and 3->4 shift was perfect, even with some 8000+ rpm sprints beyond the end of the tach . Any inpatient use of 1->2 or 3->2 would crunch (please reference thread history as to why). More confident than ever in the need for synchro timing correction. My next rebuild will fix this and swap out the low OD for something racier.

Ducting is a HUGE difference. Tracked at INDE all day today and the difference in temp (my hand on wheel) is gigantic Rears are warmer for sure. I pulled a little rear bias out. LOVE cockpit adjuster.

Nothing to rear? Lokks harder to plumb. Rear rotor hubs have a neat blue rainbow...

I bought dinky 3" alum flange things from Aircraft Spruce and 3" Toaster Oven duct from Lowes. It doest rub at full lock static. Who knows what will happen after I launch off a burm sideways this weekend. I squirted directly at the vented rotor center.

Its fun!

At which point the fun just begins... Got a snail gauge and stuff already?

I am sure it would be fine. Personally I don't think Webers are as picky about how they get their fuel. I've run a variety of pressures (including none) and it has to be a pretty gross violation for them to stop working. Mine are just deadhead. Tank-pump-filter-regulator (5 psi) to carb 1, 2 then 3 and done. One day I will do a cool looking setup like yours.

I just saw this video. My HPDE flag cheat sheat is sitting on my desk for studying. Its all fun and games until it gets real, which happens in the blink of an eye. Tj

I went through a long tranny learning process and tried about 5 different juices from plane-old dime store GL to Mt90 and GMFMSM and some others. Frankly I am not sure the dime-store GL wasn't just as good or better than any of them. I did settle on MT90 primarily becauase it was easily identifiable in case of leaks (red) smells better and is easy to fill and drain. I never found the Swepco locally or easily so that one never happened for me. TJ