duragg

I've seen a bunch of cars at our NASA events with that type of front end and I think it looks awesome (83% of the battle). Might need to find this mystery kydex you speak of.

I wasn't good at math so I put aggressive race pads rear and mild race pads front and my Wilwood BPV is dialed about 50% out. Pull e-brake and rears lock up easy. S12w front / ZX rear

For less than $100 bucks I suppose it can't hurt too much: http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Datsun-Nissan_L%20SERIES.html

Crank Scrapers.... lol

JohnC will get you the best overall product support i suspect. AZC is nice too. I made my own with the 250springs as everyone suggested and hated them. Went to 425/450 springs and like them more. Now I want even more spring (have cage, will flog)

Bump

So which is the "Inny" and which is the "Outy" on the oil? I have that aluminum plate with 2 AN lines to a cooler with the filter mounted to the plate. Guess I just need to pull a line and turn the motor and see which spooges oil (supply) and the other is return. Looks like I want to T-in after the cooler and filter. No racing till October... Sad RacR. Sad annoying racer with too much time on his hands...

What is swirling in my head is when does this system start to kick in. Ideally I want it to sit there until pressure is below some point and THEN start contributing. For instance, I really only care about its contribution below xxPSI. If the engine is at 30psi, I don't want it involved necessarily. IF the engine is at 10, yes I want help from the Accusump So lets say I wanted a floor of 20 engine psi. A guy could put in a 40psi breakaway valve and if you have 60 in the bottle and the Delta-P from Bottle to engine is great than that 40PSI the Accusump begins to contribute. So in this case the engine oil pressure drops below 20psi, the bottle is at 60psi and now it starts to augment oil pressure. Example 1: http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=SS-8C2-KZDR-40&item=c80b8fbe-343c-49a5-8ef1-2a086c6523b7# Example 2: Connect the system with a checkvalved bypass to keep it always topped at the max pressure it might ever see. Then connect the solenoid to open when the Low Pressure switch is made or at maybe a 10psi position. Additionally the valve can open during starter engagement. Aweful complex... Gee I hope I get my car back soon, idle hands + idle mind = thinking.

We can fix that... Accusump is so relatively easy and clean.

I kinda know that... but my Z is off getting a cage built and I can't really do much to it, so I am "s30 lonely" and wanted some personal interaction.. I knew I'd get called out eventually.

Thank you. I have about 1/3 of my Rebello L30 paid for and need to send him another pile. Ever done a chassis dyno? Dave is a patient man. I should probably snag the 2qt used locally.

So you are happy with the 2qt unit. Good to know You build the L30 yourself? Tj

There is a 2qt locally I can get with all the fittings for half of new... Hard not to like that if 2 would do.

So my question if the 2quart is adequate versus the 3 quart seems mute. Bigger being better... Based on what I have seen out the corner of my right eye this would be fine. OK... so who has a used one for sale... Are they mechanical inside? A spring on a diaphragm?

Great feedback Jon, just what I was looking for. I want to do something... and the Accusump is cheaper and an easier install, and will look cooler also. I only get the big red low-pressure light flicker on a few corners on a few tracks and I suspect this will solve 98% of my problems. Tj

I am starting to gather from searching that a good Baffled pan is probably plenty for an average dedicated track car? Versus the cost, complexity and maintenance of a dry-sump system? Daves Arizona Z-car pan as good as any? And miles better than a stock pan?? My searches were hindered by Hybridz current distaste for 3 letter search terms which makes oil & pan & dry useless terms.

Use the same one you had in there? A shop up by Deer Valley, AZ made me a new one custom.

Funny, I use just the opposite... Lift for just enough weight transfer to get turn in, Keep that power on if it steps out! Differential breakaway Tq (or open / or welded) has a lot to do with it also

They move all the time. Reset linkage to even all out. This is a very regular check and adjustment. It is imperative that the throttle pedal meet a firm STEEL stop in the floor before the linkage maxes out under the hood. Also that big spring could be bending stuff.

I broke a pivot arm once too Dared a machinist / welder friend to fix it and he did. SK snail gauge is required equipment for triples

I've done a stthiy job of keeping this updated. But Mike Kellys build log is inspiring, so here we go.. Z was a blast in my fist 4 NASA track events and has grown into a track-only car. After the purchase of some new 15x10 rims with R6 Hoosiers I realized the speeds were unsafe and a cage was needed. While waiting for a spot in the cage-peoples nocturnal lair I gutted the doors and removed almost 40 pounds on each door (wow). Lexan the quarters and hatch. Pics of the cage progress attached below. Going by NASA CCRs for ST class.

I ran the configuration pictured below for a very short time . Prior to my first track day it was all abandoned- totally unsat for any tech inspection. Better than lap-band only though.

Ha Explain... Did you try them F16s? Darn F16s weren't even worth sharing a 6-pack to change out...

I've really been delighted with the S12W and 280ZX setup since I went to Race pads. They are noisy and squeel... like all the cool race cars do I take time to cool down, easy on brakes and do not ever ride them at a stop. We had one Red Flag during an event and I had to stop (hot) on a hill and only option was to set e-brake. Pads glued to rotor and nearly locked up on the recover to pit lap. NEVER again will I use any caliper that doesn't involve 2 pins for removal of the pads. So frikkin easy. 2 pins, swap pads, scuff rotor and go. Routing 3" dryer vent has made a huge difference on temps at the wheel hub. Difference between burning hand and just warm to touch. Tj