duragg

Hmmm,,, well I just stumbled across this: http://www.polyperformance.com/rally/Synergy-Suspension-Universal-Light-Bar-Adjustable-Support-Kit-p-20641.html That might work fine, cut to length, assemble / weld. Just saves me the time of sourcing all the bits. My intention is to augment my lateral bar with a longitudinal bar going straight back to the firewall and a diagonal bar going to center of firewall. But we'll just see how that goes..

Anybody ever seen a vendor that sells adjustable rods of various lengths with the spherical ends and all? I want to make a custom front Strut Brace setup with adjustable rods. If it were possible to pick them up "off the shelf" from some vendor who has them in various lengths that would sure simplify the process. Haven't seen anything yet, but not sure I am using the right search terms. #adjustable rod #custom rod ball ends (that was an interesting search thread..) #Heim joint rods? I see lots of panhard rods and tie-rods but no vendor with a drop down menu of desired length and tube diameter choices. Tom.

Coilovers.. Wow. Quite a bit more to them than I initially imagined. I just installed weld-in Techno Toy Tuning Camber plates. (Great kit) Since I am now running Camber Plates and expensive Hoosier Race tires I have spent the last week "clearancing" all the parts in all configurations. For instance: Tires need to clear fenders at full squat at all ranges of camber and normal tire diameter and expansion. The cut is MUCH higher than I anticipated (Yes Johns, you were right) Supporting systems need to clear at all extremes of Camber and compression (roll bar, brake hoses and ducts, HALF-Shafts!, parking brake cable and so on). Front Springs and Top-hats need to be free of interference from the body for smooth rotation. TTT camber plate top hats didn't have the little holes I like for Tie-Wraps to keep the springs in the right place while airborne (it happens). Welded the plates both top and bottom / inside and outside to prevent breakthrough. Cut a notch in the hood for more clearance from the lock nuts and adjustment knob. Used some washers to spacer the Tokico cartridge down a little lower (less poke out the camber plate). Each wheel seems to have its own individual needs and just took some time on each one to get clearance high / low / left / right / in / out / bang / crash.. Hopefully this will all pay off once back on the track with basically NIL suspension issues. Cut-em high boys!! Tj

I'm not even certain that swapping an early 5th into a later box would work. According to the FSM the synchro is a totally different style. Might require swapping a bunch of parts which may or may not be compatible.

THank you for the pictures... some ideas of yours I like.

Cut shape for Lexan (Makrolon) hatch. Will stick in Farmer's pizza oven next week with the old glass as female mold.

I think there is a thread about the "next wind tunnel" event. I'm curious to know if there is a handy location to snatch air for rear brake ducts. Snatch (verb) as in to obtain...

Was thinking about Mike the other day while visiting the cage-people doing my jungle-gym project. They just assembled an LS1 and were using a Jericho or similar 4 speed Dog Box. I think in NASA at least it is a slight P/W penalty, but sounded like it would be a fun tranny and way lighter than T56. Plus I tend to get lost in 6 speeds Your accusump will have fun with me..

Neat article Jon. I do think just simple observation and copying can get an operator quite far. I am new to Aero discussion (on cars) and after reading all the threads many times it seems on a stock s30: 1) Adding virtually any front airdam will reduce drag and lift. 2) Adding virtually any rear spoiler will reduce drag and lift. 3) Controlling (limiting & directing) airflow into the radiator will improve cooling and reduce drag. 4) Helping air escape underhood will reduce drag, help limit lift and improve cooling 5) Adding more aggressive front devices (splitter) requires careful attention to #3 & #4. 6) Devices randomly scooping air INTO the hood are not helpful.

Your cage all done? I just left the fabricator that is doing mine and it looks almost identical to yours (except my pocket is lighter lol). I like how you did the front hoop into the rails. My front hoop will be Ultra tight to the A-pillar like yours on my next build, but I wanted dimple plates... so I got dimple plates. Did you put in a seat back brace plate?

Geez I just cut mine from my 1973. I need to see if they threw it away or what. You can have it for the cost of shipping if they still have it. Update, I am sorry they hacked it up pulling it out. TJ

Funny, I'm running 450 / 425 springs on Tokicos and having no issues. Jumpin curbs and stuff... (race track burms that is)

What about venting through upper firewall into (now empty) cowl area?

Thx TD, good links set me on course again. Its funny how little time I spend on Aero for my Aeroplanes versus my car. I guess the planes are closer to begin with. Controlling air through our air-cooled motors is key. Looking at the TINY 1.75" annular duct around the spinner on a 4000hp Unlimited like Rare Bear with 3,350 cubes and max-performing each molecule even to the point of trying to gain thrust from its newly acquired heat while exiting the cowl. So, answer to my question seems to be: its what happens AFTER the airdam (which is kinda funny in a "Ya, N/S" way).

John, Which part didn't work? Was that frontal plain airdam a problem or the splitter? The fascia looks just like what the Miata guys do and I was going to try.

Hey bro, when I am looking for ideas on my build one of the first threads I search is yours... and that's sayin something! My race Z has been in surgery for 2 months with another coming, I know the frustrations. For me, wrenching is half the fun (seen my tranny thread LOL?) Failure is my cue to upgrade. Biggest lesson I've learned on track is that HP is so much less of a factor. Being light, bulletproof and sounding insane has been my savior. Anyway: keep at it. Tj

Jm: I just bought a 48x96 piece of .125" black ABS to make this front valance / airdam thing Once car back from cage people I will make it up and share pictures.

I had a nice talk with "Bob" from Canton (Accusump) today. He spent about 20 minutes on the phone with me talking about the Accusump system, its dimensions and operation. They have the switch I was considering in an earlier thread such that the system is inactive until oil pressure is measured low and then the valve opens and contributes. This is for sure the way to run the system else the piston pressure will vary as the rpm moves around. We really want to keep the bottle at Max Pressure until oil pressure drops below some pre-set limit and then it can kick in. It is very refreshing to find GOOD tech support these days. A real technician with every day experience who doesn't mind discussing his product. TJ

FAIL. Still looking for an earlier 19/31 gear set

FAIL. It has 26/44 teeth. Still looking for an earlier 19/31 gear set

Theres a lot of curious things about the motor and its placement in that car. Maybe perspective. Looks low, tall and aft.

I snagged a little piece from my buddy who makes holsters and such. I do like the look of those cars with the flat "kydex" front. Trying to find pics of some S30s in such a livery.

+1 HF. Keep the box with receipt in it handy.

Finally got myself a 1980 vintage 5 speed. Just to junk it for 2 gears haha. Should be able to make my 2 parts trannies into one good one as a spare.

I think I have found it. Bought yet another tranny.