duragg

I used a "Battery Master" relay which gets a ground signal and enables the battery. I didn't use headlight relays which was a mistake, I need them. TJ

On this today, JM. What is needed is the tranny rear face angle equal to the input of the diffy angle. This will make them both parallel. There may be a height offset which will set the relative angle of the joints that we want less than 3 degrees and more than zero if I read correctly.

I'm not a T5 though, Car vibrates even in neutral once going fast enough. I have an 1983 FS5W71B that I rebuilt myself (second one I've done). 1) Pinion flange on the R200 sideways? I will put a dial indicator on the face and check runout. 2) Trans shaft way bent. I will put a dial indicator on the sleeve that goes into the tranny and check runout. It didn't buzz like this with the old diffy, but the D/S speeds are way up now with the 4.38 3) New driveshaft AFU (same as old one?) Will have the dork re-balance it. 4) Angles AFU Will check those too.

NEWSFLASH! wheels, halfshafts and side axles removed. Ran on jackstand and vibration STILL there. From carrier outward is acquitted. Tranny to pinion on the hotseat! The beatings will continue...

Must admit it was a good idea... Spider picture prior to disassembly last year (yes I cleaned it...) I wonder if the side-axles on these for CV joints were dimensionally different?

Any chance the spider gears are the same part from Open to LSD?

I appreciate your concern for my well being, but this is a hobby which I enjoy very much. The art of troubleshooting and fixing is a true pleasure to me. I am enjoying myself very much. If I were trying to "kill myself", there are DCOEs under the hood... (three of them, each with different ideas). I assure you, I am having as much fun as I can possibly have, I am not killing myself, don't know what a masochist is actually. I am not going to buy another 4.375 R200 for a little play. We have full machine shop capability and can just fix it, sleeve it, repair it or live with it. Shimmed to 80lbs and not a bit of chatter, FYI. Your input on those other diffys is very helpful.

Need a sanity check please: Does anybody have any r200 sitting near them with axles snapped in that can check the free play like I showed in the video at the top?

I removed the existing side-axles and compared to these new ones. Really couldn't tell any difference. Installed and both side-axles to compare and both have similar amount of "wiggle". I was hoping for a tighter feel, but no luck. Didn't feel like running it. There was no appreciable wear. So the question I really need help on> 1) All R200 (CLSD) side axles have a bit of wiggle like my video and it isn't the problem. or 2) My spider gears are trashed causing the wiggle and it might be the problem. Side axles... the splines go into the Spider and that is all the support they get? Tj

OK. Got my new (to me) side-axles and they look real nice. Going to swap them here shortly this afternoon.

My replacement suspension already has the spindle pins out. I have LCA and Tubes with no pins in them, so I am starting from scratch. I could be tempted to clean and reuse the bearings if they spin good. Expensive. Tj

I got everything I need. Thanks for the assistances. TJ

I now have: Front and Rear strut tubes ready for cutting. Maxima rear disks, Toyota Front Rotors 27 Spline stub axles Purchasing Ground Control 225/250 Coilovers. Tokico BZ3099 and BZ3015 adjustable inserts (With top lock ring). Rebuilding all the remaining suspension bits such as: (How is my List???) Inner and outer wheel bearings front and rear and seals Front Z31 vented rotors for S13W calipers front MSA front street camber kit (pn: 23-4188 which has the bearing in it too) MSA rear street camber kit Front Ball joints T/C rod rebuild stuff Spindle pins, nuts and parts. Tie Rods L&R Stub axle nuts What am I missing for a pretty comprehensive rebuild??

Specs are listed in the for sale section. I took a good hard look at it, but its right there at the cost of parts-ish (700 crank, 100 F54, 100 rods, 250 pistons?, bearings, etc. machining). I think at the very least check all the clearances you can. Or ideally pull apart and check everything and use it as a super collection of parts. I doubt it will sit around for very long in the F/S section.

For a guy that is pondering a change from DCOE to MS this is a little surprising. I was hoping it could be tuned to run seamlessly. Is this really a Known Issue people are having?

Yes, although supposedly they have reworked the wings after the infamous near disaster a few years ago (Praise BuckyD for the save). Should be back this year. Its my favorite competitor.

Nice work Brotha! How will you attach the Aluminum flares? Tj

Yes thanks we do love the Mu2. Maligned and a bit unusual, but as long as a firm grip is kept on the reins will respond wonderfully. Flew our short body to Page, az, and then test flew a long body. Final approach speed was around 101kts in each case. Never used reverse thrust to back up the plane. It exposes the $25k / copy prop blades to rocks and increases the chance of FODding the 1st stage compressor on an engine valued at $250k / copy. *somebody* caused this video to happen: And now we resume the regularly scheduled program: Having a Biattch of a time finding replacement snap-in side axles. I don't want to pull the rear end apart without some spares ready to go.

I need a good set (L&R) R200 snap in side axles for stock u-joint half-shafts. Also looking for front strut tubes for my 240z so I can make Coilovers. I already have the rears and when I am all done I will make my old struts available for some type of swap and pay-forward routine... Phoenix, AZ 85013

I filled my pump before bolting it on. Then spun the motor longer than I thought it would take and finally it happened. Oil everywhere. Can't recall if I did it plugs in or plugs out.

The DS builder said it balanced beautifully and his machine has 3200rpm capability. I didn't know to dive much deeper. (The TPE331 powered Mu2 I am flying this weekend is a 41,230rpm shaft btw... yow.) I know the prop balance guys always say "vibration is vibration" it will always be there no matter what Rpm, out of balance is out of balance. And this was the same DS on the R180 that ran smooth, so I am back to looking at my R200 this weekend. Not trying to be a snitch, but there is also an R200 I might try to ****** up in northern AZ this weekend. The old crank is being a ***** and parting out the *****.

Agreed. Yes the pinion bearing feels tight and the LSD spins freely and quietly. The only thing that is loose and obvious are the snap-in side shafts whose OD splines wiggle in the ID splines of the spider gears as shown in the video. Hopefully this weekend I can dig in some more. I'd like to wipe out this problem before moving on with the new suspension.

But driveshaft angles different now than with R180?

Correct on below. If ripping down the freeway with the harsh buzz / vibration and you you push in clutch and select neutral there is no change. Of course the only thing that really disengages is the clutch / flywheel and engine. When I had the R180 in this issue was not present and all the components were otherwise the same. Unfortunately I've not had a chance for further investigation quite yet.

Love Czechmate. My favorite. Nice artwork on the wings...