duragg

I am a pilot also: "crashing and burning" are not good analogies... I did find another shop to do 7000rpm balance. Got to get ready for the big Zcon show here in September.

Tonight was my night to put the Z back on the stand and pull the Half-shafts and side flanges and run the vibration test again. But then the A/C compressor at my house shti the bed and blew the breaker (I live in Phoenix). It was a 39 year old Chrysler AirTemp..... fair enough. 8iuuuuuuuuu54778124 <--- Cat walked across keyboad there, sorry. Then while visiting neighbor to have a cocktail his POS dog attacked my leg, forgot to hump and sunk his teeth into my calf. Main puncture of .25", cleaned and closed with Superglue. Whats up with 2012??? I am about to think 2009 was better.

I have checked the Half-Shafts and didn't really detect any unusual play at all. I think tonight I will pull the half-shafts and Clip-in axles and run it again. If the Vibration is totally GONE< then the trouble is likely after the Diffy Carrier and before the wheel. If the problem is still there> then the trouble is likely Diffy and Driveshaft. With my R180 I didn't have this problem, so I think it is not transmission. It was only after throwing in this R200 that life got interesting.

Plus I was running the Arizona Z-car mount before which has stock geometry according to Dave. Now using the R/T Mount which is just a tad lower on the diffy nose. Vibration unchanged.

Sure doesn't look like much mis-alignment. I know the R/T mount with Energy bushing puts the nose of the D/S down a little lower. but it wasn't this way with the old R180. I will check.

I just talked to the guy that built the D/S and he said they balance up to 3200rpm. at 60mph with 23" tires I would be around 869rpm wheels and 3800 on the driveshaft. I would think if it was good at 3200 it would be good at 3800. Plus I've run 2 totally different driveshafts with no change at all.

By the way, when I rebuilt the clutches I recall the spiders being nice and secure in the housing. No play there. THis leaves the internal splines in the carrier and the external splines in the snap-ins. Easy enough to try a different set. At some point a dial indicator on the flanges

JM: Where are you seeing Lash? In the one video the right half-shaft isn't spining, just demonstrating the wiggle in the side shaft. In the other video the car is running and the clacking is the lash you reference? The springs and shims are nice and tight and it is about 80ft-lbs of breakaway. But striaght driving and even on the jackstands with tires removed the buzzing vibration is pretty gnarly. New driveshaft balanced with no change.

John I corrected all the metal / metal issues and everything is clear. Sure seems like those half shafts wiggling around at 1000+ RPM would certainly make a buzzing racket.. I could pull the halfshafts and try again and see if still there. Then remove the side shafts and see if still there. Eventually something removed will not be able to buzz the whole car like a vibrator.

Until the big guns check in and render their opinion, I guess my first choice of action is to find some different snap-in side flange axles and see if they are better. Hopefully it is the snap-ins that are worn and not the diff carrier which is a bigger issue. But the question still remains, what is "normal" movement of the snap-ins. Tj

The washers are there for sure. What is it that sets the "tightness" of the snap-ins? Is it those side bearings? I spun them and they seemed fine when I had it all apart, but clearly that don't mean squat. Its not that big a deal to pull the diffy and replace if this is the case. Waiting for more confirmation from the big-wigs... Better to replace the side bearings and maybe find new side-axles than damage the carrier.

Last year I installed an R200 CLSD with 4.375 (I shimmed the clutches, inspected all and it turned freely and nicely). Once installed I had vibration issues at higher speeds. Past 80 is a fast nasty scary buzzing. So far I have: Had a new driveshaft made and balanced. New R/T mount with Energy bushing to replace the solid mount. Swapped a bunch of different half-shafts. Verified the half-shafts are not binding and nothing is hitting anything else. Today I put the Z on jackstands, removed the rear wheels and secured the drums then ran in 5th gear and past 3000rpm the buzz really comes in. It is purely related to speed of the car. Happens in neutral, and any gear as long as going fast enough. One thing I don't get is why the snap-in side axles into the R200 are not tight. You can wiggle them around as seen in this video: Video of the car running on the stands at idle. The rattling noise is the culprit or just gear backlash (or both)? I see some other issues with the brakes in this video but those will be fixed with the upcoming Disk / Coilover conversion.

Yes. A good digital shop. But I don't remember it this bad before the 4.375 r200 swap. Granted the driveshaft is spinning faster now. My 15x10 rims will be here soon so I hate to invest money now. Tempted to put car on my beefy stands with rear tires removed and lug nuts tightened back on drums. Start car and let clutch out in 5th and raise rpm to 4000 and if it still buzzes the tires are ok.

While I did not have to notch the lower mount (yet), I did have to adjust the sway bar mounting. My sway bar comes forward from the A-arms and winds around right under the rear driveshaft u-joint and it was hitting with suspension at full droop. Due to the geometry it probably wouldn't have hit while driving, but I raised the rear mount arm points which lowered the very front part and gave extra clearance. My car still shakes like a mo-fo above 60 so I will continue the hunt...

When I was a kid I once decided to try this and just did all the driving with my right foot. Bad idea. I needed to stop fast and my brain commanded my right foot to "push" , but i was on the clutch and it was hard to over-ride the automatic response. Once, was all I did that. I think the key is a handle grip on the shifter that actuates the clutch as mentioned above. with the right geometry and pressure plate you would get used to and and have a great shift system. Not unlike the old VWs with the auto-stick thing. My airplane, the Yak uses a handle grip like this for brakes and quickly it becomes second nature as the clutch would. Plus, a few years from now you will have a really powerful chicken~choker on the right arm... if it comes to that

Aaaah Geez that was a job. Installed my Technoversions RT Diff Mount and Energy (interlocking) mount. Beautiful product, superb response to all my questions from the proprietor. My 240 was about .125" more narrow than the top part of this mount so the install took a lot lot lot of BEATING to get that sucker in. Nothing more than sheer will and crashing hammer blows got all the holes lined up. I should have just taken it out and beat on the tunnel~ but once I got it up in there I couldn't get it out and I was in a hurry and I am a hack anyways, so. I also chose to relieve a little of the rubber from the mount to fit the shape of the thing a little better: Based on my historical averave, this will probably turn out to be a big mistake. But for now... its done. New driveshaft comes back tomorrow and I can finally burn that solid mount into a pile of molten...

Driveshaft shop said my Driveshaft was "wasted" and the caps and joints just fell out once the clips were removed. There was material worn out from the inner race where the cap should be pressed in so the bearing cannot do its job if the cap is spinning. They offered to just make me a brand-new D/S with standard Spicer joints for $175 bucks so I just went for that.

Ever since I put in the 4.375 R200 with the solid front diff mount I have had a wicked vibration, starts around 45mph and by 85mph it is just plain scary. Increasing in a linear fashion. I finally got my R/T mount with Energy bushing and will install in place of the (hideous) billet aluminum mount. Taking driveshaft to the shop for balance and new u-joints. Ya, I could do it myself, but for $100 bucks I think I will let a Pro have the pleasure.

The limitation is the Hz range of only 32Hz on my device although the HTC docs say 100Hz. Not sure if it is software or hardware. I was flying a Mooney with a bad vibration recently and used this App. It identified a peak at 20.25Hz which is half crankshaft speed. Unfortunately the 1x crank was off the scale. It also has no data logging. It also is free. Let me know what you find. There may be an iPhone comparable?

I am on the same track. Reading and studying. At some point you just dive in and keep fixing till it works. I think it will be self teaching at some point. I have the software downloaded and playing with that, but again it is just masturbating until the real parts are there.

M3 brakes... A guy pulled out in front of me driving an M3 and I slammed on the brakes so hard, but I was still going to hit him. So I put all my remaining energy to that pedal with full adrenalin it about ripped my head off and stopped instantly. Wow. Impressive for sure. Sorry for TJacking.

In my experience it is pretty darn easy to get the adjustment just a little off. Check and adjust all, then rotate engine a few times and recheck them all and the measurements are usually a bit different. On a brand new engine if the valve is seating itself and receeding a bit wouldn't that tighten up the clearance? Hydraulic lifters are a great invention in my book. Just checked the valves on my L28 and they were all surprisingly about where I left them. My Yak engine (9cyl radial) has 18 of them puppies with a 4 lobe radial cam and they are all over the place. Tj

Electric impact rocks! Oh, and we do thumb compressions on aircraft engines all the time. If its hot and difficult to contain its a keeper.

Once my new R/T mount arrives I will swap that and also have the D/S balanced and repaired if needed. Will be replacing the Stub Axles when I swap into my coilover buildups so then will be able to dissect and see the splines on the old stubs in person. Thanks for your feedback on the R200 side axles. . TJ

U-joints, but I have swapped about 3 different half-shafts in, greeezed them and they sure feel perfectly tight. No change with any of my different halfshafts Just seems like the CLINK is closer to the hub which is why I suspected worn 25 spline stub axles. What do the experts say about the feeling of the click-in side shafts in the R200? Are they super-tight or have some ability to float?