duragg

I posted in the Drivetrain section a little vibration analyzer that uses the accelerometer in your smart phone. If you can exactly isolate the vibration frequency you will be able to tell if it is crank speed, 2x crank speed, fan, alternator etc. Worth a try.

1983 5 speed. Nothing makes the vibes go away but slowing down. Past 80 mph it is scary. Ordered a new R/T mount and will balance the Driveshaft too.

I used the Spectrum estimator to calculate for my Frontier and indeed the Vibration Analyzer correctly pinpointed my out of round tires on the truck with a big spike right at 13hz at 70mph as expected. But in the Z it was too hard to find a good place to pickup the vibrations and I think the vibes I have are too high frequency for the accelerometer in the HTC Thunderbolt. Looks like it only goes up to around 30Hz and +/- 2g. I wasn't able to go fast enough to get a pronounced vibration without exceeding the range of the device. Some other smart phones might have up to 100HZ in the accelerometer. Still a handy doo-hickie

Put my 240 on Jackstands today and while holding the brakes I applied power forwards and backwards. You can hear a distinct Ping, or POP, as the power builds. I think this is the stub axle splines being trashed? I already have new 27 splines ready to install with my new coilovers. This clinking has always been there with this car, despite replacing tranny, diffy, and halfshafts. Next question: 1) The clip in side axles on the side of the R200, they click in positively. But I would not say they are extremely tight fit in the splines. Seems like you can move them up and down just a hair. Are they supposed to be real tight in the splines of the R200? Or do they float some? 2) I have a vibration that is like a buzz that starts at maybe 40 and gets more and more with speed. I attribute this to my solid front diff mount which is going away next week. Driveshaft balance help that too? I am thinking the buzz is not half-shafts as they turn so much slower than the D/S (4.38 times slower I guess). Thanks.

Playing with Android apps today and found this cool vibration analyzer: Vibration analyzer Also found this neat spread sheet to calculate various frequencies: Spectrum estimator WARNING: download this spreadsheet at your own risk, it gave me no problems. Ever since I rebuilt me engine, tranny, diffy, etc I have had annoying vibration probably related to the Solid front diff mount and driveshaft or Halfy imbalance. Just for fun I am going to see if I can isolate the vibration frequency. Should be able to see a peak before or after the final drive ratio. Just a fun toy for a stinking hot sunday in Phoenix. Tj

ROPOS is a rusted out piece of siht. Not really, I fixed the rust, but the name stuck. What is wrong with the stock 240 gland nut? In all my reading of all the stickies I kinda glossed over the gland nut stuff. I get it now, re-read again and now I see.

240z. Picked up S12W front calipers and rear 280ZX rotors and calipers today.

I am planning to follow the John C and the Dirty S30 instructions. I am not worred about being totally slammed as this is more of a functional fast street car with future race application. Q: How do camber plates change how low you can go or impact strut travel? You mean you just wanted to be so low that the struts bottomed even with sectioning and the camber was all wrong? Q: Are the cheesy Camber top insulator things pointless? What about the lower adjusters? ROPOS is on a budget afterall and a POS is still a POS. Q: No spacer? So I need to cut with reference to my BZ3099 and BZ3015 inserts such that they fit in the sectioned tube and the cap will lock them down without anything stuffed in the bottom? The existing ride height is fine, just soft and lame. The goal is wide staggered deep-dish with ZGs before the big Z-event in Phoenix in October.

Did my research, gathering my parts and today began the coilover buildup. So far I have rear strut tubes, rear ZX disks, 27 spline stubs, Toyota 12w fronts. Still looking for bare front tubes so I can build and swap. Ground Control 300f/250r will be here Tuesday, Tokicos per the stickies and some half-ass camber fixers. Die grinder around the weld pile. Hammer time Slip n slide Not even time to drink beer on this round.

but there is *Always* something wrong with the dang carbs.... at least for me. Thankfully I have reached the pinnacle of Weber tuning: Decided they are good enough and leave them alone. Tj

Do you have your own wideband installed in the car? That is really the only way to do it. Can be confusing, the difference between Lean and Rich sometimes. It was often exactly the opposite of what I thought. 140main is a super-soaker jet. Even 135s on my 7000rpm motor with 35 venturis was too fat. Once you have the wideband in the car everything becomes easier.

Is the Ground Control kit out of favor? I was planning to find a spare set of strut tubes to cut and build following this Handy DIY and use front Illuminaz in back and Mr2 Illumnas in front. While I am there do the front Toy4x4 brakes and rear Maxi's. Already sourced the heavier 27 spline stubs to upgrade at the same time making a slow project to upgrade.

Checked a stock engine manual and it says .002" to .007". Do you think you had three-thou? Or no thou? Maybe a hotrod motor needs a little more oil there and more to the high end of spec? Do they make bearings to adjust that?

Earlier ones are supposedly smaller ID. 2000 to 2003 are 42mm at the smallest. ...they say on Hodna forums.

A few questions while we are kicking around ITB. 1) IN general then am I hearing that a little longer is better than a little shorter? 15" from trumpet tip to mounting flange at head face? or into the valve? 2) Having some trouble locating the code: 35f0 GSXR throttle bodies. I have read that is the code for US spec 2001+ EFI ITB Gixxer. I want to matched sets to make one. 3) A little research shows that Ms1v3 or mS2V3 will do just fine condisering I want spark control also. I don't have the rest of my life to figure out Megasquirt so I am looking for an easy kill on which SW. 4) Is there a fuel pump that people generally accept as acceptable for an EFI installation?

Collecting throttle bodies now and studying Megasquirt.

Is there a "flow chart" type Megasquirt selector? Could be helpful for newbies like me. It is daunting from the outside. Do you need spark control: Yes= Pick this one, No= pick either this or that. Do you need sequential-go down this path. Closed loop - add this software Do you want expansion for so and such, pick MS2, Can you solder and are you cheap? Pick this kit. Do you want a tested box, buy this part.

THank you for this. My next trick on my Z might be ITB-EFI with MS controlling some 35f0 Gixxer bits. I love triples, but really, its 2012 and I live in Phoenix.

Are the turbo bearings toast too? Maybe the debris from the CCB in the turbo smoked the mains? That crank... hmm. Maybe you should try a stock L28 crank? I think i have one here if you wanna trade... Assuming you reject my generous offer; While re-working your V07 crank is this a good time to do some offset grind-weld-grind work for more stroke?

Does the Redline oil work well in the stock 5 sp? I have a 1983 5 speed in my 240 that I rebuilt myself. Only complaint is I can't really make "lightning" fast shifts. No grinding, but I guess the syncros just take a split second to do their thing.

This is the catchall thread for Webers: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/28318-weber-jetsall-who-live-for-their-triples-please-read-this/page__pid__1004337__st__520 If the car runs ok, let it be. But the carbs are different and different is bad when tuning DCOE. If you are chasing problems, reduce variables and get another 18.

Presently I have one electric fuel pump feeding the Triples. With EFI I will need a high pressure pump, filter, regulator and a return line? Not sure if my 1973 had a return setup, there are some plugged lines I have never messed with.

The drivability difference with my repositioned progression ports is striking. Around town it is just smooth and seemless transition no matter the throttle modulation speed or range. Only lingering fault is a bit lean at cruise right where the last progression trails off and before the mains kick in. My floats are as high as they can go (too high actually) and yet still the reach from the last progression to the mains is just a bit far. Only reason you would know is the W/B and occassional sneeze in cruise. Solution is to enlarge the last Prog port which I haven't done. Sitting on Craigslist searching for GSxR750 ITBs / Megasquirt for a summer project. Or the Extrudabody setup which is pretty reasonable actually and mounts to my intake manifold. The idea of making and building the GSxR setup by my own hand and willpower intrigues me and it may be a bit less money. Summer in AZ. Z is put away for a while unfortunately. Tj

Mine does the same. I have the solid front diff mount which I assumed was the cause. What diff mount are you using?

Dude your engine bay looks spectacular. Congratulations, really. You must have led a clean life to have good low speed response and only a minor problem of a bit fat up top. I suggest you just go to 120 Mains now and see how that goes. Then change chokes after.