Wagz

Actually, all those pictures on Pete's site are really of MY car. Pete doesn't even own a Z! (I wish!)

Baggies, boxes, a Magic Marker and lots of shelf space. The only additional thing I did that wasn't mentioned by the other guys is that I used a digital camera. I took pictures of EVERYTHING in all the stages of disassembly and burned them to a CD. I've taken my laptop and those pictures out to the garage on a couple of occasions to use as a reference while putting things back together.

Good lord! The Mad Fiberglasser strikes again!!!

That's pretty cool! It's nice to have all of your hard work recognized. You ought to get a free copy for 'helping' sell the product. Hell, I might have to buy one just to check it out.

What year is the block? If the motor is carbed, then it is most likely the old 2 piece rear main ('85 and older) block. If that is the case, the T56 will not bolt-up directly without a custom bellhousing or flywheel/clutch setup. Do a search in the drive train forum. There is a ton of information regarding this subject.

I really like the look of the nose on that silver 350Z. I would definitely get rid of the boy-racer rear wing, though!

Sorry! I gotta agree with Tim. That Pontiac is ugly! Too bad. Pontiac has not built a good looking car in years. Holden is bailing them out with the new GTO, but I think the original Holden is better looking than the version Pontiac massaged. I don't mind the 350Z. I isn't what I was hoping Nissan would build. The Aston is fantastic! It definately has lines that are more reminicent of the original Z than the current one does.

My cute little socialite cheerleader daughter is turning 16 next month and actually asked for a Ford Ranger pickup Can't figure that one out. She is definitely NOT a tom boy. I expected a request for some little ricer with custom daisey wheels and a CD player. I didn't argue. Rangers are cheap to buy and cheap to insure! Bought a nice little truck last month and now I have another vehicle to haul crap to the dump and pick up more car parts. I am much more afraid of the teenage boys hanging around my house than I am to have her behind the wheel.

S30Z Bushido made his own. Here is a thread with some pics of what he did: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19323&highlight= I found some material at the local hardware store and made my own, but I don't have pics yet.

Terry - Thanks! That is actually VERY helpful. This thread is well timed since, Nate and I were just discussing this topic earlier in the week and are planning to work on this soon.

My bad. I was assuming R200.

Terry - Do you have any more detailed pics of your hinge setup? Nate (Nezzie76) and I have been brainstorming ideas for fabricating hinges for his Velo Rossa/Alphabet kit. We believe we have a plan, but this may give us some new ideas. Thanks

SHWEEEET!!! I'm going to print some of those off on photo paper to hang on my wall in the garage. My car needs the inspiration. VERY nice work, Tim!

David - An LSD will definitely get you better traction, but 3.7's aren't necessarily always LSDs. 3.7 ratios are available in open diffs too. Drax - Are you going to do a complete diff swap or just a gear swap? I'd be interested in your 3.36 if/when you do it. It'd be a good match to my T56 tranny....

Congrats, Tim! Now you get to spend your time driving and admiring your hard work. I can't wait to see a full battery of pictures. Hopefully, you'll be able to produce some pics faster than Dan Juday. (Hint, hint, Dan )

Cool! Much thanks for the info, guys. I knew what I was reading had to be WAY wrong.

TTT Anyone?

I ordered a rethread tool from Snap-On (thanks for the tip, Mike) and got the threads fixed on the stub axles. So, I just want to double-check the pre-load specs for the stub axle nut. My copy of the service manual says 3.9 inch-pounds. I believe this calculates to less than .4 foot-pounds. Is that correct? Less than half a ft/lb torque? Anyone know? Also, anyone have a recommendation for the best method to peen the new nut?

I'd do what Tim said. There are tons of products available from the Eastwood Company to correctly paint those types of parts...

$400??!! for ball joints. I think the counterman must have been smoking joints! I just priced them last week. Napa (Moog brand) for $50 each. Schucks quoted me just under $30 each for cheap off-brands... I saw the one's on EBay for ~$70. I'm probably going to go for the Napa ones.

Thanks, guys. I suspect John is right. It's been over a year and a half since I removed the stubs. I remember that grinding the peened portion of the nut (without damaging the shaft) was a real pain in the a$$. I may very well have done a poor job in my hurry to just be done with it. I have a decent file for working on the threads. I'm going to do a little searching for a thread guage at some of the parts houses in my area (Sears is too much of a hike from my place). I also thought about stealing a little of my son's PlayDough to press into the treads of the nut and visually compare that to the undamaged portion of the shaft (poor man's thread guage )

My apologies to you New York fans. I am sooo sick of seeing the Yanks in the series (almost) every year. The curse of the Bambino strikes again. I was really hoping for a Cubs/Sox series...

So, I am reinstalling my stub axles in the rear strut housings tonight and I'm having a hard time getting the big nut started on the first shaft. I got it started, but it's not moving freely enough. I visually verified that it wasn't cross-threaded, but I started to get a little pit in my shomach and backed it off. Sure, enough the firts couple of threads are slightly rounded-off. I tried another nut on the second shaft and was having the same difficulty so, I didn't push it. I just bought brand-new nuts from Victoria British to replace the stock peened nuts that I destroyed in removing them. I don't have anyway to accurately measure the threads on the nut or the shaft, but they to appear to be slightly different. I double checked my Vitoria Brithish catalog: All S30's from '70 to '78 take the same part number and the part number sent to me matches the catalog. I'm stumped and frustrated. Does anyone know if there were slight differences in the shafts? Anyone have a good source for these nuts? I'll probably head down to the nissan dealership tomorrow and see if they have some on hand. (wishful thinking) As long as I'm asking questions: Once, I have the nut issue worked out, does anyone know what pre-load specs I should torque these puppies to? Thanks!

your soul is worth £33304. For your peace of mind, 24% of people have a purer soul than you. Hmmm. I'm sure I'm not worth that. I musta mis-clicked a few answers :flamedevil: