Wagz

and what an a$$ it is!!

That was great! I'm tempted to bid just because the write-up was so good. My favorite: PLEASE NOTE: If you are bidding from Great Britain, Australia, or Japan, you will need a camshaft that swings in the other direction.

Ahhh. Good post. I needed this information as well. Thanks, Dave!

I'm glad this one got dregged up. I hadn't seen this post before and the fuel cell work on my VR is coming up real soon. I have been planning on an aluminum cell from Summit. I had read about the poly cells having a tendancy to collapse inward. Nion/Tim: How are your poly cells holding up? I like the look of the aluminum cells, but I like the price of the poly cells better.

I'd buy one of each or any of the above. How's that for helpful in making a decision? Ok. If I HAVE to choose one, I like #3 the best. Jeromio's idea may be the best for all. We can have nice, embroidered patches put on anything we like...

Burnt faces? Burnt heads? Didn't anyone wear their killer HybridZ caps for protection and fashion value? Someone post pics, please!

Cringe?! Not a chance. That is sooooo sahweeeeeeeet!

Yup. Me too. I would love to have 3.36's to go with my T56. I checked with Eric at ZParts over a year ago on a set he had. If my weak memory serves, he was asking in the neighborhood of $300 for 'em.

Yup. Property taxes are somewhat higher here in Oregon, but there is no sales tax, no smog check outside the Portland Metro area and Lang County. Housing is definately cheaper than Cali. This is the only state other than New Jersey where you can't pump your own gas. It is definitely more rural in southern Oregon so, the only cities of any size are SF to the south and Portland to the north. But, if you are into getting away from the crowds and traffic, the standard of living is good.

I agree on a straight rod being better and that having adjustable rod ends makes sense, especially on a 30 yr. old + car. What I would avoid is the pivot point at the ends. I would want to adjust inward or outward, but not have the pivot bolt for the rod end to rotate around.

I can't speak for Auxiliary, but I am referring to the rod ends.

I guess if your gonna hafta deal with flex, maybe it's good to have the towers flex in unison, but I thought the whole point of strut bars was to add rigidity. In one of my books on building/hotrodding the author of the suspension/chassis section makes a point of saying strut bars should not have any pivot points at all. Otherwise, they do little more than add some weight to the car. I'm no suspension/chassis guru. Just passing on what I have read.

The vendor was just at the Portland Swap Meet with a couple of examples. They looked great. I picked up his brochure and am planning on updating my extra fridge to be a "Snac-On" box.

When you're looking for auto/performance related info on the web, grumpy is better than Google, Yahoo and Lycos all rolled into one.

Yup. I bought mine from Weir Hotrod Products after I read the Chevy High Performance article. Back when I was researching this last year. McLeod wasn't advertising that they produced anything like it. I'm pretty happy with the quality of what was delivered. However, it hasn't been "performance tested" yet.

Yup. Planning on it myself. I picked up some 3M seam sealer from my local paint supply place, but I would be interested to know what brand RacerX prefers/recommends.

I can't answer the question reqarding spacers since, I haven't completed the conversion on my '71 project yet. But, I believe they are necessary to position the engine/tranny in line with the diff. The Z drive train is not centered in the car, but is actually offset slightly to the passenger side. I purchased the entire kit but haven't installed yet. You could fabricate the needed setback plates yourself (the JTR book includes the plans), but the spacers seem a little more difficult. I also have a '76 that had the JTR conversion done before I bought it. The installer didn't purchase the spacers and instead used grade 8 nuts on the mount bolts as spacers. I plan on replacing this setup with proper spacers. Also, I would seriously reconsider using a TH350 tranny. I have this setup with a 3.54 diff on my '76 and it sucks going down the highway. If you plan on using this car on the open road you will want an overdrive tranny.

Well, I'll start the ball rolling and say that I would like to have a pair, but at $500 a set, well, let's just say I'll be waiting for a while... If the price gets lower, I'll step up.

If John doesn't respond to this post, shoot him an email at: Info@ReactionResearch.com I know that he had the trim rings available at one time. I have his VR kit, but haven't purchased the trim rings for mine yet. The question will be whether his rings will fit your Alpha kit. Have you checked with they guys at Stable Autoworks? For some reason I think their kit is based on (or they have the molds from) the old Alpha operation. I could be mistaken about that. And I gotta ask, how do you get your wife to buy you webbers?! My wife barely tolerates my hobby. Your wife is sooo cool!

John Washington at Reaction Research has a host of different kits. I purchased a Velo Rossa kit from Reaction. I believe Dan Juday purchased his 280YZ kit as well. High quality stuff and John is a good guy. Definitely check out his stuff. He is also located in AZ. Happy Hunting.

You might check with Mike Gibson (scca) at Future Mobile or Ross Corrigan (Ross C) at Modern Motorsports Both are members on this site and know what you are looking for. Mike is active in racing these things too. They are both located in BC just over the border. (not too far away) I don't know if either are interested in this type of work, but it's worth an email to them.

Thanks for the input guys. I am leaning toward the rubberized undercoating route. I agree that, although, POR-15 has a reputation for being tough, it should probably have some kind of coating over it for added protection. I like the idea of using the bedliner material, but that stuff is so tough how would I remove it if I ever needed/wanted to? I had a bad enough time removing all of the factory undercoat and it wasn't as tough as bedliner material. The one person I spoke with that recommended NOT undercoating at all was concerned about trapping moisture and causing more rust down the road, but I think that if I am diligent in applying the POR-15, this should be a minimal issue, if not a non-issue.

THAT is a distinct possibility CZ: Glad to hear you got the templates. Man, snail mail truly does move at a snail's pace when going to Okinawa. Let me know how they work out.

Personally, I really like that spoiler. I like the G-Nose look too, but that nose looks like it has some fittment issues at the corners in relation to the bumper.

Energy Suspension Hyperflex bushing kits seem to be the most popular. I got mine from Suspension Restoration Looks like they are asking $157 for a kit these days.