m1ghtymaxXx

Hmm, I was about to install a 14" electric fan and build an aluminum shroud, in order to gain clearance for I/C pipes (free up a little bit of power). Do you guys think that would be adequate for a turbo L?

Just put mine back in this aft, and like mentioned, no baffles. A google search found me this: My 83 L28ET is no different other than it's black.

After searching the forums through thread upon thread about the downsides of hydraulic lifters, I finally found what I was looking for: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/50067-p90a-head-ticking-what-to-do/page__hl__cleaning%20hydraulic%20lifters It covered almost all I need to know, but I still have a some questions, and this thread is four years old and perhaps some new info has turned up since, so instead of bumping it, I thought I'd start a new thread with a more appropriate thread title. Anyways, my first question is whether there is any difference between intake and exhaust valve lifters. Originally my plan was to play it safe and take apart the lifters one at a time, give it a blast of break cleaner and put it back together and install it before moving onto the next. Now I think I'll pull them, label, disassemble and let them soak in solvent in individual containers overnight before reassembling them and installing them. More importantly, I'm buttoning up my motor (which was pulled about 3 years ago, and has since had the head resurfaced and a new head gasket installed) between finishing school last week and starting work on the 17th, in which time I have very little money to spend. I will hold off on swapping the l28et into my N/A 280zx until I have some cash on reserve for unforeseen expenses. One of the key points I took away from that thread is that it is imperative that the lifters be reassembled full of oil. Will the the oil stay sealed in the lifters for the next couple weeks of months before the engine is fired up? Work will recommence on the motor tomorrow, and I'll be sure to take pictures and post results.

What air dam is that?

I've been contemplating a set of diamond racing wheels, but I'd was going to price out custom set of 17x9.5, since I can't find anything in that size in a style I like that's remotely affordable.

Alright, I'm pretty tempted to build myself some z31 coilovers as well. Just want to get this straight. All that's required to get this setup working is: z31 strut tubes z31 brakes/rotors/hubs (I want to use 4 bolt in the mean time since there's no room in the budget for wheels right now) z31 steering arm 1.5" stretched control arms and to correct alignment: bump steer spacers camber plates and of course sleeves and springs, I assume these will fit the z31 strut tubes?: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=70&PHPSESSID=097c89f4e02f575eb09c510cf3f18b07 If anyone would care to confirm this that would be great! One more question though, I guess directed and frank280zx if you've got this working, it looks like you stretched the control arms behind the sway bar mount, therefore spacing it out 1.5" on either side. How did you then reconnect the sway bar?

I did a search and found nothing relevant so here's my question. I noticed some manifold stud kits online for the L-series, and I figured that might be a nice addition to my L28et before installing it. I would seem that it would make manifold removal/installation easier while the engine is in the car, but before hunting around local fastener stores, I figured I'd ask if anyone can provide some insight.

Holy crap, I love my car as much as anyone else, but for 30k I think I'd could fall in love with another newer car requiring less work. You can put 30k into an s130, but think about how much it will be worth in the end. I'm assuming you're going for a "concourse" style restoration. Perhaps you're better off doing more of a resto-mod and coming out with something more unique. Save all your old parts and leaving the possibility to return it to stock down the road.

Added my current one and my old turbo parts car. What about a space for entering the location? I put mine in the description.

Well if Bernard won't chime in I will for him lol. I think he ran an 11.2 last summer on a stock block low budget 83.

I would disagree. I seem to have had better luck with old cars. In 3 years of owning my 83, it's needed 2 batteries and and 2 alternators, which I don't consider too bad. My 91 corolla needed a water pump, a starter and a battery in 5 years, and my 2004 Element needs an exhaust manifold, diff bushings and possibly a heater core after 10 months of ownership.

I agree, the grille openings could use some tweaking, but overall I'd say that's a pretty neat look.

What size gauge fits, and what's the best way to mount them?

Got more pics of the rims? Looks some pretty serious offset on the rear

Well as an update, I wired a 5 dollar momentary button straight to the starter, as the ignition cylinder still fires up the ignition/fuel system, just the starter contacts seem worn out. I picked up a relay so that it will only crank when the key is in the "on" position, but I've yet to install it. The start button is on the column where the headlight washer button was. Pretty trick actually.

Alright, so after finding a good wiring diagram on autozone.com, my roomate (electrical master) was able to diagnose it as a crappy ignition switch (by hotwiring the car). So now comes the task of sourcing a new ignition switch. Does anyone know if the lock cylinder can be transferred over from my existing ignition to a new/used one, so that I can keep my key, or not pay to have a new key made?

Also the wiring diagrams in the hanes manual are bunk. Anyone know where to find some better ones online?

Sooo, the past while, my car has required a a couple turns of the key to start, and last night she officiall sh*t the bed. As for symptoms, there's no click from the starter, and the stock voltage gauge actually reads higher when I go to start it. So far I've jumped the starter/solonoid and they work fine. I tested the wire going to the solonoid (short blade on the starter), and didn't see any voltage. I heard a faint click from under the dash, so we pulled the glove box and found the relay responsible for the noise. We pulled it and it tested good. Now I'm not sure if that relay was even starter related, but the fact that it clicks when the ignition is turned means that the ignition would be good correct? Sooooo, I can only assume that there's something between the ignition switch and the starter that's gone. I'll update as I pick away at the car. Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

been contemplating the same thing myself. The only options seem to be: - stuts and springs (i was thinking tokico illuminas for struts) - home made coilovers - s130 coilovers that a member on here is going to e producing - s13 coilovers (including s13 spindles, brakes, and hubs) I was thinking of going for the s13 stuff. It will be the most expensive option, but I like the idea of getting to uses aftermarket s13 stuff.

That pic looks like a t25/28. Is that what you're using on your Z?

Very interesting...Has anyone played with s14 spindles? S13 guys like to switch to s14 lca's, spindles, hubs and s13 struts/coilovers for better handling and 5 bolt hubs. I wonder if an s14 swap would be as easy as the s13 swap.

+1 on battery cables. I get a similar issue from time to time. All electrical works, but when I go to start it, it just clicks and dies. Sometimes it comes back to life on its own, sometimes it requires tweaking the terminals/cable, and once and a while I have to comb the corrosion off the cable with a wire brush and electrical cleaner.

Wouldn't hurt to have that thing cleaned. a quarter century of water deposits will effect it's performance. My stock 83 has never surpassed halfway on the temp guage.

Those "frame rails" don't take any weight from what I've heard on here. For the front I just use the front x-member, and position the jack stands where the control arms meet the subframe. For the rear I place the jack under the where the subframe bolts up to the unibody. There' a perfect little cup shape that the jack fits in. If I'm putting it on stands than I jack it up by the diff and put the stands under the x-member.

air to water