m1ghtymaxXx

I would likely be in if these are available in 17's. I was just about set on Shakotans until I started looking for 15" tires. 17's are a little bigger than I wanted to go on my S130, but I think the tire choice and futureproofing for brake upgrades makes it worth it.

Awesome project, and you're driving style is aweful reminiscent of mine! Does this car have a cage? I wanted to build my 2+2 for the Targa Newfoundland rally, but I'm not sure how the Halo bar would fit around the T-top levers.

For those buying used coilovers, whats the fuss about the included sleeves? If you're buying s13 coilovers, the sleeves are included, you just have some extra metal to contend with (s13 spindle mounts). I did have the sleeve bored out slightly, but I would be surprised if the included sleeves fit perfect out of the box. I only paid $20 for the machine work anyways. Anywho, check my build here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/page__p__885620__hl__%2Bs13+%2Bcoilovers+%2B280zx__fromsearch__1#entry885620

Long screwdriver. Little tricky at first but you should have it down by the time you're done (only done this on a P90 hydro head)

Speechless.

This guy will tell you more: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_JtoW7GrdY

Any pics? Don't think I've seen a widebody 2+2

Where are you located? I need a main fusible link box as mine caught fire

Should have done what I did: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/page__p__885620__hl__%2B280zx+%2Bs13+%2Bcoilovers__fromsearch__1#entry885620 Simple and leaves the camber like stock (haven't yet bothered to cut the strut towers for the camber plates)

I rusty alternator ground cause my car to go through 2 alternators and 3 batteries in 3 years, as well as caused the main fusible link box to catch fire and made for some crazy voltage spikes. After years of frustration I realized the fix was nothing more than a new cable and some sandpaper.

I've got megan racing S13 coilovers front and rear. I've dropped the front approximately 3 inches (limit of what fits with 225 tires on stock 6 spokes + 5mm spacer. The rear is sitting about the same since I don't have any sort of camber/toe adjustment to compensate, and I don't feel like eating tires. There's certainly room for lots more drop, and it could go higher than stock if you wanted it to.

Not twin charged, just supercharged. I currently own the intercooler setup from that picture.

The camber plates/adjuster bolts fit just fine. But they can't be accessed without opening up the strut tower somewhat. I just set the camber to 0 before installing them, since a mac strut suspension shouldn't camber in too much with the drop I was going for. What was the issue? Of course you could always go the same route I did temporarily. The extra hole is hidden by the strut tower "caps".

That is a possible fix, but it probably wouldn't be an issue running stock size rubber (205), or of course less offset wheels. Also I believe the Canadian HTA requires a minimum 2 inches upward and downward travel (ei: 2 inches of preload + an additional 2" of compression travel). I measured 4.5" of space between the coils along the whole spring (and I doubt they're preloading 2"), so any smaller a spring and I'd be facing an improper equipment ticket, at least while I was living in Winnipeg, MB, where owning anything other than a beige Corrola is a crime. Luckily I just moved to St. John's NL, where the roads are twisty and the cops are a little more relaxed. Anyways, the front's share the same top mount pattern between the S13 and S130, but of course to make use of the camber plates you must open up the tops of the strut tower, which I have yet to get around to. For the rears, I kept the 2 bolt S13 top hat and drilled another hole in the strut tower. If was thinking ahead, I would have looked for an S130 top hat to put on the S13 coilover. It doesn't require a pillow ball, so as long as the center hole is the same size (or small + drilling), it would be an easy and cleaner remedy.

Been forever since I logged in, but perhaps my summer S13 coilover swap could be useful here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/page__gopid__911707#entry911707

Sorry, started a new life on the East Coast and Haven't logged in in ages. Here's Before: And after: Rear ride height is near stock, due to lack of camber adjustment and unwillingness to further rape my tires. Front right height is limited by my bulging 225's on the stock 6" rims. They have 5mm spacers, but that's as low as it'll go before the tires rub the coil. Need wider spacers and longer studs to go any lower.

Sorry for the bump, but this song has gone huge and I thought I recognized that S30. Congrats dude. By the way far East movement is coming here to Winnipeg in 3 weeks.

Yeah, as I mentioned in the original post, I've seen it done on 510's, s30's and z31's, just no yet on an s130. Just trying to show how easy an alternative it is for adjustable suspension.

Next came installation on the car. I decided to order a set of MSA poly bushings, and new ballpoints while I was at it. I also cleaned up and painted a new set of control arms, TC rods, and dust shields while I was at it: In order to remove the old bushings, I used a drill bit to drill around, and generally mangle the bushing until it comes out. Only takes about 5 minutes, and I would recommend this over torching them like I've seen suggested on here, as they come out with no mess. I then went to fit the new front control arm bushings when I found they didn't appear to be close to fitting. It looked like there was sleeve pressed in, but I couldn't figure out how to get it out for the life of me (tried a hammer and socket to no avail). Grayzee on here offered me a life saver of a suggestion. Take a hacksaw and cut the sleeve: Then you can pound it with a slothead screwdriver and curl it up, at which point it will pretty much fall out on its own: Then the bushing will go in by hand: There's no point in explaining how to replace struts, but I can give tips to how I solved a few minor issues: The outer tie rod ends can be easily separated by unscrewing the nut so that it covers the top of the threaded shaft of the tie rod end. This way you can seperate with a could good hits of a hammer without damaging the threads. After though, you might find the ball joint spins so that the nut won't come off. Jack up the tie rod end with a floor jack to create some friction so that the nut will come off. Also, jack up the tie rod ends when putting everything back together. Here's all the suspension out: And back together again: 5mm spacers were required to fit my 225/60s on stock 14" six spokes down to about a 2" drop. Further than this and the tire interferes with the coil spring, however this shouldn't be an issue with stock size tires. I will hopefully update later this aft with stance pics, and how the rears go in (complete bolt in minus 1 new hole in strut tower)

Well I finished up my S13 coilover swap onto my 280zx this past weekend, and hit the autocross track yesterday with great results. With all the coilover discussion in the suspension tech thread, I'm surprised this isn't a standard swap. If I can do it, anyone can. Not only is it straight forward, but it cost far less than I had planned on spending to make my own coilovers from the stock strut housings. I found a set of Megan Racing street series coilovers for the S13 locally for $400 CAD used, but in good shape. A search of this site found how to threads of people installing these on s30's, z31's and 510's, but couldn't find any evidence of it done to a S130. Regardless, it looked like an easy enough project for me to take on. First off, I just removed the bottom mounts: Then took an angle grinder to the mounts, until all i was left with was a threaded tube: Then I grabbed a spare set of strut tubes I yanked out of a junkyard 280zx years ago. After sitting outside, the spindles looks pretty rusty, but a brass wheel brought them right back to new: Next off, I needed to have the tubes milled out slightly so that the inner diameter matches the outer diameter of the strut tube. A machinist did this locally for a cost of $25. Unfortunately I don't have pics of this, but it's a simper procedure on a lathe. Next up is welding the cut off spindle to the tube. Initially I was worried that the coilovers would be unable to go up to stock ride height without leaving the a couple inches of strut tube hanging out the bottom, however after measuring the preload in the springs (about 4 inches), vs. the new 450 lb/in spring rate, I realized I should be alright butting the tube right up to the cast spindle, however I left a quarter inch of so for welding, which was done by a friend, since I have no welding experience: Somehow I managed to forget to take a pic of the final painted assembled product, but with a coat of red paint on the bottom assembly, it looked pretty fancy.

Yeah they look like a nice piece. Certainly worth the extra couple bucks. Anyways, I just got a reply back from Chris. I caught him while moving, and he said he'd ship me out his last one.

I found a 5 bolt z31 at the wrecker today, and would like to use the struts and brakes using frank280zx's coilover/stretched lca idea, however I'm not sure how you'd reattach the tie rods and sway bar after.

Has anyone down the vg30 ecu swap on a N/A? It would be a cheap alternative, however finding the 83 zxt dizzy might be tricky.

Pallnet doesn't offer one on their site, and Arizona Z car's isn't drilled and tapped for IAC.

Has anyone dealt with this vendor lately? I would like to order a 240sx throttle body spacer from them (link), however they have not replied to my email I sent a week ago. I just sent another in case the first got overlooked. Of course if they won't reply to my email, I certainly won't be sending them money. Does anyone else make a 240sx tb space with provisions for the idle air control? Thanks -Max