m1ghtymaxXx

wow, thats a nice job. Here's what i did with my 6 spokes. I'd like to redo it with the tires and valves off though, and get the pitting from the old weights filled. And how they match the car:

Is that the car you were referring to? That belongs to 280zedex on here, and is located near me. Its running a custom supercharger setup as well. Heres another pic i took of it at a local auto-x event:

link? Didn't see it in the yahoo search, did see this however: http://www.flickr.com/photos/7850159@N04/1371784869/ dieing to see more

I'm not a big fan either. Maybe if it didn't have that slotted grille at the top.

Mike, since this thread is back up, i saved you the gas cap and key from my parts car. However its in a box which is prolly hidden in a snowbank by now, so I prolly won't be able to retrieve it till spring.

I think it does. I really had no idea that the "tool" had any other purpose other than to keep tension on chain so it doesn't slip of the teeth on the lower sprocket. The one i cut is simply cut to the dimension mentioned above in straight lines. Do you think that will suffice or should i redo it?

well that would explain it. Guess i'll cut it down a few inches. I guess i should be cutting off the bottom, not the top? This chain tensioner thing has me nervous now:-(

lol "V4"

:shock: Oh wow, didn't know about the chain tensioner, so its a good thing i didn't get that far today, although i did end up finding the dimensions in the Haynes manual and making it anyways. For future reference, the dimensions are as follows: 3/4" thick, 10" long, 1-3/4" wide at the top and 1" at the bottom. Although i havn't used it yet, i came up with an idea which might make it more effective. I drilled a hole in the top so that i can zip tie it to the chain to keep it from slipping no matter what. And another thing, should the "tool" fit into place with the cam sprocket still in place? cause it didn't. And that brings me to my next question which can be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=861076#post861076

I did some searching and couldn't find anything so... I'm removed my intake and exhaust manifolds for the first time today on an engine outside the car, even then it was somewhat of a pain in the ass, granted i left the turbo on since it was having trouble bending back the metal tabs that hold the nuts from turning. Anyways, doing that, i realized there is no way i have the patience or skinny fingers to do that in the car, and certainly would not be able to get it back together again. Has anyone ever replaced the lower manifold bolts with studs? I figure it would be far easier to slide the manifolds onto some studs and then through some nuts on it, then try and align the both manifolds and a bolt over the the holes in the head.

to the side of the head or the side of the block? I'm pulling the head

This might sound a little dumb, but its my first time pulling an L-series head, or any head for that matter. I know that once i take the cam sprocket off, the chain will need to be under tension so it does not slip off the crank pulley. Looking in the haynes manual, it shows a block of wood with the chain slung over it. Before i get started I just want to make sure i have the right stuff on hand. What size wood will fit in the timing chain opening, and approximately how long would it have to be. Also will the weight of the slack on the chain be sufficient to hold it snug against the crank pulley, or will it need some added weight? I know its a dumb question, but i'm doing this alone, and bringing my own tools, so i won't have an extra set of hands if i realize i'm doing something wrong.

Got a clean one from an 83 2+2 turbo for sale.

droooool! I wish i could afford that right now. Are those standard size headlight buckets? (ei works with readily available headlight covers?) And that colour is sweet...cause its the same as mine:razz:

I can't imagine the stock fan is too effective without the shroud since it sits so far from the rad. The idea of notching the stock shroud and filling it with fiberglass or plastic crossed my mind, but i never checked if theres even enough clearance between the fan and the shroud to do that. My plan is dual 12" fans for clearance and safety. Looking in the engine bay, i'm not sure a centered 16" would fit because of the stock fan "spindle". However with duals, it allows that spindle to sit between the motors, as well as leaving space at the top of the rad for a charge pipe, and as already mentioned, will still give some cooling if one quits. My only worry is the load on the charging system. I replaced my alternator with a lifetime warranty rebuilt one last year, and voltage still dips below 12 volts (on the factory voltmeter) when its cold out and blower, wipers, headlights and amp/stereo are going. I've heard mention of using bigger gm alternators on this site, but never saw whats involved.

Since it's a turbo, switching to electrics will gain you the space to run a charge pipe between the rad and motor should you decide to run an intercooler. Just some more food for thought...

If I recall correct, the cruise control cable attaches to the linkage rod thing that runs across the top of the intake manifold.

I'd like to keep my cruise control. It will be on an 83 turbo swapped zx. Also I'd like to keep the IAC

Looks good but it needs to be extended all the way back. Love the way that air dam looks with the painted black "bumper" too.

so that full 1" is required? My engine is half way across town so i can't just go look at it.

Well in the quest to pinch pennies, i had a possibly novel idea for a cheap throttle body spacer. While looking at the stock 50mm tb and 240sx 60mm, trying to figure out how to swap linkages, i realized the base flange from the 50mm tb would make a perfect spacer by cutting it off and milling it flat. I'm just not sure how thick a spacer is required though, because the flange is only about a half inch. It does have the flange for the idle air control flange already on it though. Just wondering what your thoughts are?

got the PS elements 2.0 drop kit

Heres a chop of my car i did i while ago os something I'd like to try with my spare 83 bumper and headlight buckets; collapse the shock and shorten the bumper to tuck it into the body a bit, shave the "nose cone" that meets up to the bumper and replace is by a flat piece of fiberglass, and then fill in the remaining gap at the inside corner of the headlight buckets with fiberglass. Lastly relocate the signals into the freshly opened up grille 280z style, and shave the cutouts in the bumper. Edit: Forgot to mention replace stock air dam with a nicer looking aftermarket one of course. In this pic i just chopped out the grille. I tried doing that this summer and putting some bosche foglights in the opening, the stamped sheet metal inside the opening wasn't too pretty.

On mine there was one bolt hidden under the interior panel. Take it out and it should pry off fairly easily. This was on a 2+2 if there's any difference.

good! then maybe they can be replaced with some that fit:-P