m1ghtymaxXx

Awesome! Looks very....volkswagen

Been about a year since I checked up on this thread, but I was at a friend's place last night (hardcore FB Rx-7 guy), and he was telling me I had to see the this series of videos he downloaded about a 240z build. Ended catching up the build so far. Amazing work and huge and huge props. Great work on the video editing too, but how do you find that much time to work on the car and then edit videos about it?

Speak for yourself, I think they stock bumper looks better than any a/m bumper I've seen, however it certainly benefits from an air dam. The back end is the weak link though. Bumper sticks out too far, and tailights are just plain ugly.

Not quite what I had in mind lol

While on the topic, does anybody have an idea what kind of torque a stock clutch can handle. BTW it's a 2+2 with the 240mm friction surface. I will be doing and l28et swap shortly, and was wondering how long I can get away with the stock clutch.

Just a suggestion, all the belts will slip over the fan one blade at a time, so no need to remove it. Other than that, it's pretty self explanitory.

Need more examples of 2+2's!

Did you buy those or make them?

Sounds like mine. I was told not to use anything, as it already has a similar sort of coating. It's sticky to keep it from slipping during installation as well.

What do you have for engine management? Your not running 1bar on a stock ecu are you?

excuse me while I pick my jaw up off the floor. Thats downright spectacular!

agreed. Top secret gold seems much lighter, however its hard to tell in a photo taken in artificial light. However my gold s130 needs paint, and I want to keep gold, but something a little different from stock, and that looks like a good candidate.

Well I'm no expert, but I thought I should correct this. From what I understand, the factory N/A ecu can handle some boost, but the afm cannot. You'll have to search to see the the turbo afm is compatible on the the n/a ecu. Vacuum stuff shouldn't be a huge issue. If legal, I'd loose as much emissions stuff as possible. And muffler uprgrades? On a turbo car, the best muffler is no muffler. I suggest you both spend some time searching. This has been covered many times. Hope that didn't come across too harsh.

If I recall correct, the b-pillar trim has 2 screws behind (inside the car, under the interior panel. And the window trim has some hidden screws under the weatherstripping I believe.

looks like solid lifters. I've got hydraulic ones, and they just have the hex bit at the base to tighten them down, and no springs on the rocker arms either. Not sure what that hole is in the trans, but I've got one in a freind's garage bolted up to my motor (out of an 83 turbo as well), I'll try and remember to check it out next time I'm there.

I have 225/60R14 bfg radial t/a's. There are no rubbing issues, but I would not recommend going with the biggest tire you can fit unless you only plan to go in straight lines. My car now rocks side to side quite a bit it turns, and just makes it feel sloppy. Not only that, but they don't look much bigger than the previous 205's.

I couldn't find an answer in that thread. I guess if its not blocking any passages in the block, I should be good to go?

no advice anyone? Wanted to do the hg today.

Well I had planned to throw the top end back on my motor back together this weekend, and thought it would be a good idea to see what I could find out on hybridz before going ahead. First thread I came across explained that there are several different coolant passages configurations between L-series engines. I figured since all f54's should be same, and me rebuild kit is specifically for an 83 turbo, I should be good to go, but thought I should compare the headgasket to the head just in case. Well here's what I discovered: with the headgasket on. I've circled the coolant/oil (could someone tell me which are which?) passages left open: And with the headgasket off, I've circled the passages blocked: Now I just went back and dug up some old pics of my block, and it looks like the stock HG had provisions for the passages, but they didn't continue into the block. So what does this mean, will this gasket work? Edit: This is a P90a and f54 turbo block from an 83 zxt. I'm quite certain the motor had never been opened up before.

Just found a line on a cheap one used. I know it is sacreligious to mount such a thing in a z-car, but I can't afford a 150$+ name brand unit atm, and I imagine this would be better than any cheap new chinese gauge I could find. What are your thoughts? For some odd reason I thought they were made by autometer, but I have not been able to back that up.

like hughdog mentioned, how do you plan to adjust everything but the front toe?

can't wait to see them.

Sorry. I had made a thread on a local car forum last year when I tried this, and I went back to it to find the pics but they appear to no longer be hosted, the links were in that thread as well which I copy and pasted. Its pretty simple realy, just don't reverse polarity, or you'll find that your part has been dissolved in the morning, no joke. I think the pics may be gone for good, but I'll copy and paste the text I posted on the other forum:

I played with electralysis last summer. I took a ton of pics but can't find them for some reason. Anywho, it worked great and I would certainly recommend it. All rust comes off with a few strokes of a wire brush. Heres some more links in the mean time: http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/r...c_derusting.htm http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoe...olyticrust.html

just a little more off topic (sorry), what is the difference between a solid lifter p90 and p90a out of curiosity?