DCZ

Try to find the oldest, nastiest radiator shop in the worst part of a bad town. I did and got mine dunked in their acid tank and epoxy-lined for $100. Other than that, the DIY option is the way to go.

Timing should be around 10 degrees BTDC at idle.

Subtract $100 for the painted SUs

Maybe your distributor is loose and it is way out of time? Just a guess.

It's all them nuts 'n bolts 'n things. Righty tighty, lefty loosey, I gets so confused. Seriously, if you searched I'm sure you found out all you need to know. Now, DO IT!

Do you have access to the factory manual? For the 240z there is a picture that shows a guy replacing the window and if you do it the same way it shown in the picture works better. From memory (may or may not be accurate) you lower it into the door front end down so that the roller goes in the channel attached to the glass. Then rotate the back side of the window down and fit the front of the glass in the front channel. I honestly can't remember if you do this with the big upper channel attached to the door or not. I DO know that I have done it several times in my 240z and if I can do it anybody can. You DO NOT have to remove the parts bolted to the glass.

I don't have a definite answer but I don't see why not. I assume your concern is too much flow/pressure for the NA setup? Your pressure regulator should take care of the pressure and any overflow goes back to the tank. I don't know what kind of inlet and outlet the 255 has but enough people have used it so at the least I would think some hose barb connectors should get you running. That is how I plumbed the ZXT fuel pump into my 240z.

Not me on craigslist. I have heard of and seen many shifters that were heated and bent or cut and re-welded so that is a viable option but I have never done that myself.

This problem is often cited in writeups but it doesn't seem to be universal. I have a 71 with an early 5 speed and I don't have an interference problem with the console but it is tight. Maybe because I have a 73 console? Do you have the original R180 rear end? I live close to you (Durham). Are you a member of the Triangle Z Club? Maybe we could meet and compare cars.

Sounds like you have no power to the coil. Have you verified spark at the coil? (Pull the center wire off the dist. cap, hold it with insulated pliers about 1/4 inch away from a good ground and crank the car over. You should get a big spark from the end of the wire. If not, check to see if you have 12v. at the + side of the coil.

That's your problem right there. When you bypass the heater core with a loop of hose you are taking hot coolant and dumping it right back to the water pump inlet, effectively bypassing the radiator for that portion of the coolant. Plugging that bypass hose lets all the coolant flow through the radiator.

Here's how I understand it (anyone correct me if I'm wrong). The low impedance injectors need resistors to limit the current thorough the injector coil so they don't burn up. The early z and zxs had an external resistor pack to provide this function. In '82 I think they changed the ECU so that the resistors are internal. I don't think there is a problem going from low-to-high impedance injectors because you will just have extra current limiting resistance. I don't think there would be too much resistance to energize the coil. If you have an early ecu without the internal resistors you could bypass the external resistors. However I would be careful doing this and measure the resistances involved to make sure the high impedance injectors are high enough. Hope that helps.

He has come to several of the Triangle Z Club shows but is not a member AFAIK. I talked to him at the last show and he seemed to be a nice enough guy. Kept insisting that Bernard Goetz designed the 240z, though. He lives in the eastern part of the state - Washington? Whiteville? Starts with a W. Coincidentally, my neighbor used to babysit him when he was a kid! Maybe I should send her down there to straighten him out! EvilC, I'm sorry you are tangled up in this and hope you can get a satisfactory resolution.

Do you mean getting the bulbs out of the sockets in an s30? I had a hard time too. Try using a thin sheet of rubber - like a jar opener - to get more traction on the bulb when you push in and twist. Silicone lubricant wouldn't hurt but would probably make everything slippery.

Used to sail a Hobie 16 with my brothers when I was young. Sail # 1069 tells you how long ago that was. Loved it, although it was pretty cold in March on the LI Sound in cutoff shorts and a t-shirt! True story, one time we beached the boat, and turned it around at the shoreline preparing to go back out. Rudders up, sheet loose in the block with the block just laying on the trampoline. Light breeze. We're dikking around not paying attention and the tide is coming in. Brother yells "Hey!" and we turn around to see the boat zooming off with noone aboard, straight for Long Island. Looked beautiful skimming atop the waves. We ran in three directions looking for a motorboat, finally caught it about six miles out! God we were stupid!

Methane . . . let's just say I'm a walking natural resource!

Thanks guys, that is some valuable insight. Dr. Hunt, what does "P&A below the water zone" mean? I got a chance to sit down last night and read the actual lease. Whew! looks like a minefield of potential "gotchas". For example (realize that this is all couched in a lot of legal and technical language that I don't yet fully understand): This is not just an option to explore, it would give them water (or any other mineral) rights as well as gas/oil. If they find anything it gives them the right to develop and sell it. The five year period can be doubled anytime they want by paying us another $7k. We cannot refuse. If they DO end up hitting gas, this lease can be extended as long as they want. I did not see any way of terminating the lease as long as they have a well "capable of production" (not necessarily producing and paying royalties). They don't have to sell any gas they find. They can sit on it forever and I would not be able to sell it to someone else. They have the right to store gas underground and pay ~1k per year for the privelege. They can "pool and unitize" our land with other lands. This seems like a real kicker because they can treat our land to their advantage based on conditions that exist elsewhere because they have "pooled" us with some other location. I don't understand all the ramifications but it seems like a hole big enough to drive a tanker through! As you can see, this looks like a long journey of learning for me. I didn't expect something like this to be straightforward, but right now I feel like Jack looking at a handful of beans.

AFAIK they are offering the 7k just for the OPTION to EXPLORE. I'm trying to educate myself so I don't end up selling something I didn't want to sell, like the gas itself or mineral rights. Supposedly, if gas was found, then I would contract with someone else to let them pump it out. He said that the "industry standard" rate is in the neighborhood of 12% - 15%. (that is, the landowner gets 12 - 15 % of market value).

This board is such a deep well of random knowlege I thought I would ask - anyone here in the oil/gas exploration business? My family has some land and has been approached by a gas exploration contractor. They want to "lease" an option from us to look for natural gas on the land. They are offering what seems a pittance ($7k for a 5 year option). I am trying to educate myself on this whole process because I'm sure these people know their business well and I would rather not be the rube that gets shafted! Any advice? Any good web resources? Thanks! When I'm a big gas tycoon (as opposed to a big gas bag), Z's all around!

Point-N-Shoot. Kinda like the way I drive.