DCZ

Now that you have the FSM, print out the whole ECCS chapter and bring it with you to work on the car. There is a very detailed troubleshooting section that leads you through all the connections of the sensors, injectors, power, ground, etc. to the ECCS computer. All you need is a volt/ohm meter. Follow the troubleshooting EXACTLY and IN ORDER and you will at least verify that all your components are there and connected properly. My bet is that you will find something that is not hooked up properly (ignition relay?, wiring to igniter?) and the fix will be easier than you think. When the engine fires you will have earned the "Happy Dance"

Did you download the fsm from here? http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html It is in pdf format. All you should need to open it is Adobe Acrobat (free). Keep trying - it's worth the effort.

>The hayness manual I have has wire diagrams but they arent very productive or accurate. Do you have the Factory Service Manual? Get a copy! Download is free (search). I would not do this conversion without one. The pages I referenced above in the 82 FSM are much more informative than anything you will find in a Haynes manual.

Double check that yellow wire going to the transistor on the coil bracket. According to the FSM page EF&EC 98, it should be a yellow/white wire that goes to pin 5 on the ECCS "computer" unit. Ohm it out with a DVM and make sure that wire goes to pin 5. If it does, and that wire is totally dead when cranking, I would check all the power and grounds going to the ECCS unit. You also said that you are getting nothing at the CAS. This is definitely part of the problem. I am pretty sure (but don't quote me on this) that both the ignition pulse going to the transistor at the coil and the triggering of the fuel injectors are dependent upon the ECCS getting the pulsing signals on the two wires from the CAS (G/B going to pin 17 on the ECCS and G/Y going to pin 8 on the ECCS). You should be getting 12V on the B/W wire at the CAS (comes from the ignition relay) and ground on the B wire. If you have power and ground but no pulses on the other two wires when the distributor is spinning, you have a bad CAS. Looks like you need to get your volt/ohm meter and, as our man TonyD likes to preach, "Verify, Verify, Verify"

Where did that last diagram come from? That ignition relay does not look like it is hooked up right, but it's hard to tell without all the wires drawn. Regardless, that condensor missing should not cause a no-start. I don't know what the 'inhibitor relay' is but it's possible it could 'inhibit' the ignition, but you would need to verify that circuit to see what it does. That yellow wire going to the igniter (the transistor on the coil bracket) - did you say you are getting a steady +12V on that wire? It should be coming from a white connector in the harness near the ECCS and it should not be a steady 12V. As I remember, that connector has several yellow wires so maybe you tapped into the wrong one? Did you follow Bumblezee's turbo swap write-up in the Turbo forum? I'll check my FSM diagrams and my notes from my swap tonight if I get a chance and post back if I have anything to add.

Check your schematic from the FSM to see where the power for the CAS comes from, I don't have one with me right now. Like I said above, the CAS has +12V on one wire, ground on another, and outputs pulses on the other two wires when the distributor spins. One wire pulses (I think) 360 times per revolution (1 degree) and the other pulses 6 times per revolution (60 degrees). Verify that by looking at the slits in the round plate in the distributor. If you are not getting the +12V at the CAS you will need to trace it out using the wiring diagram. Post back with your results.

PM sent.

Do you need the carpet or the pad under it? I have a carpet from a 240z in fair condition for cheap.

I've got the hatch in good shape and a fender, I forget which side. Priced to sell. PM me and we can arrange pics/price/shipping from NC.

Are you using the turbo coil with ignitor on the coil bracket? That diagram that Vantage put up is for the non-turbo application. Actually, I just checked your diagram and it looks like you are using the turbo coil. Make sure you are getting a pulsing on the yellow wire on the ignitor when cranking. This is the gating signal that causes your coil to fire. If not, check for pulses on the signal wires coming from the CAS. Out of the 4 wires on the CAS, there is power, ground, and two signal wires. You need a FSM to figure out which is which. When you are cranking the engine, you should have pulsing on the two signal wires, referenced to ground. All this assumes you are getting no spark from the coil. Have you tested that?

Looks great! LOVE the tow hook! I could have used that many (too many) times!

Mine turned out to be the crank angle sensor in the distributor. You can test it by probing the ECU connector, pins 8 and 17 (I think, check your FSM) should have a ~4v square pulsing wave when the engine is cranked. One of them should pulse quickly, every 1 degree of rotation, and the other should pulse slower, every 120 degrees of rotation. If you can get ahold of an oscilloscope it will be easier to diagnose.

I just bought a new one, NAPA part # 1470701 for about $83.00 which was the cheapest I could find. It's for a Z31 but fits into the 83 distributor housing. You have to get some machine screws and I suggest locking nuts because the original CAS is threaded and the replacement has through holes. It was pretty easy to replace and my car has never run better!

+1 to what cgsheen said above. All you need to do is find that Blue/Red wire. It is definitely listed on one of the diagrams in the FSM which will show what pin on the ECU connector it is connected to. On my 83 it was on a connector on the passenger side inner fender well, in front of the battery. Find that wire and don't krispy-kritter yourself!

Here's a diagnosis idea: I measure no pulse at the gating signal for the ignitor (power transistor) at the coil. I figure this is due to either a bad ECU or bad crank angle sensor. CAS is producing a 4 volt square wave but I don't know if that is enough to trigger the ECU, and I've tried two different ECUs. I have also tried brushing the gating wire of the ignitor to ground (test from the archives) but that produces no spark so I still don't know the source of the problem (CAS, ECU or ignitor). I have access to a function generator. If I hook that up to produce a gating signal for the ignitor, I should be able to make the coil spark, right? If I can get a spark this way, I'll know that the ignitor is good. Then I could hook the function generator to give a signal to the ECU to mimic the CAS, and see if I get a spark. That would test the ECU and isolate the fault to the CAS. The only thing I'm not sure of would be the amplitude of the signal. I would guess that 0 to 5V square wave at about 100Hz would work for the ignitor (100Hz = 6000 cycles/min which would be like the engine running at 1000 rpm) and about 17 Hz for the crank angle sensor assuming one pulse per revolution (17 Hz = 1000 rpm). 50% duty cycle hopefully wouldn't harm anything. Anyone know what the amplitude and/or duty cycles of these signals would be? Anyone know if I'm likely to destroy something by doing this? STOP ME BEFORE I BURN MY CAR UP!!

Didn't get to the garage last night to work on it. Just read old posts till my eyes bled about "zxt no start" and "z31 ignitor" etc. etc. I'm going to go over all the wires and grounds like you said, physically removing, cleaning and reattaching each one and verifying contact. I've already done that for many of them but I'm going to be a little more systematic. I'll post back when I find the culprit.

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I'm having a similar problem now.

Funny how they can go from being so solid one minute to "dead" the next. This car has been completely reliable since I did the swap 2 years ago. Started on the first twist of the key, ran great, hot, cold, no matter. Now it seems like nothing is working. Guess I have to keep hammering away and re-check everything.

Here's the scenario - 73 240z with 83 zxt swap, stock ECCS. I've been DD this setup for two years without a hitch. Died on road - tach does not move with cranking, no spark at coil secondary. Coil primary ohmed good, had 12V at + and - terminals. Figured it was the ignitor, swapped in spare Z31 unit, no change. Figured maybe the spare was bad, swapped in a new chevy HEI, well grounded, properly wired per diagrams found here and elsewhere (Thanks Skittle). Fired right up! Test drove it for about 10 mins and it died again, towed home, AGAIN same symptoms. HEI module was not hot to touch. HEI tested good at auto parts store. Swapped spare coil - no change. Ran troubleshooting tests in the FSM for ECCS system (FI relay, grounds, sensors, etc.) using volt/ohm meter. All passed. Measured ignitor trigger signal with oscilloscope (ECCS pin 5). NO PULSE. Measured crank angle sensor signal to ECCS (pins 8 and 17) PULSE PRESENT! Concluded that ECCS bad, bought another (thanks TooSlowToCare). NO START SAME SYMPTOMS! Ohmed out wiring harness for all signals between the ECCS and the coil, also the high tension lead from the coil to distributor. All passed. Battery has a good charge and voltage only drops to around 11 while cranking, otherwise at 12.5. I don't know what else to check. I find it unlikely that both ECCS control units are bad, and/or all the ignitors are bad. The only two things I find that are weird are: 1) With any of the ignitors and coils, I have not been able to brush the trigger lead to ground and get a spark from the high tension lead held 1/4 inch from the radiator. Key in "run" position, brushing trigger lead to ground. As a matter of fact, I tried brushing the coil "-" terminal to ground and got no spark. Am I doing something wrong? 2) The crank angle sensor pulse voltage is 4 volts peak to peak measured at the ECCS. Should it be more? I measured 12V going to the sensor with the cable unplugged. Any ideas appreciated, except "go megasquirt" as I'm not in a position to do that at this time.

If you are connecting that black/white wire directly to the distributor body without a capacitor in line then you are creating a short to ground. Do not connect that wire to the distributor unless you have the capacitor on it. I'm pretty sure that capacitor is only there to cut high frequency radio interference.

The curled end fits over a peg on some of the air flapper valves. On my 73, one of them is on the passenger side for the air intake flapper and the other two are on the driver side for floor/defrost (from memory). I don't have a picture but I'm in Durham and sometimes Raleigh so maybe we can meet up and you could see them in person. damian DOT craig AT duke DOT edu

I have a turbo fuel rail. How about $15 + shipping from NC? email damianDOTcraigATdukeDOTedu or PM

I have the rear polyurethane kit. MSA wants $67.95 + shipping. I'll sell for $50 shipped. It is new.

Chrysler mini-vans, mid to late 90s I think. Pull the big weatherstrip around the sliding door and it works very well for the s30. The only drawback is that the black finisher on the inside of the rocker panel doesn't fit exactly right.

To answer your first question - I used the 280ZX rear transmission mount but had to turn it 180 degrees to get it to fit. This was a T5 out of an 83 ZXT 2+2 going into a 73 240. The ZXT mount looked similar to the 73 mount but it was offset a little so that the mount looked like a set of shallow delta wings. I still had to pry it into position with the engine mount bolts loose to get it to go in but I haven't had any problems in 2 years. I've used ATF since multiple sources in my searching said to use that. No real problems but I do have a little trouble getting into 1st or reverse on occasion. I swapped in the 3.54 R200 from the donor car and used Ross' ModernMotorsports adaptors for the axles and have been very happy with the setup.