DCZ

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Hi Jared, I have the C pillar emblems, how about $30/pair shipped? PM if interested.

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Use your ohm meter and trace from the wiring harness connector which plugs into your AFM back to the pins on the ECU. Then look at whatever wiring diagram you can find in the FSM to figure out which pin on the AFM is which pin in the FSM.

I painted the valve cover on my L28ET using cheap Krylon spray paint over a year ago and it has held up fine under daily-driving use. This is with a turbo and no hood venting in the south, so underhood temps are probably hotter than optimal. S30_dRiFteR is right that powder coating is tougher and will last longer, but I haven't had any problem so far.

quote: see its not when i turn while driving its only if i'm backing out of my driveway and i happen to to turn my wheel all the way in either direction... It might be your front tire rubbing on the edge of the front valence panel. Mine did that. Had to resort to a little artistry with my favorite hammer . . .

I just did this a few weeks ago: 1) Attach choke lever/cable to console outside the car, install leather shift boot on console, remove shift knob. 2) Install rubber grommet in firewall. 3) Place console in car between seats but not in the proper position yet. 4) Thread the choke cables into the grommet holes. Spray the cables with some silicone spray to help them slide through the grommet. 5) Alternate sliding the console forward and pushing/pulling the choke cables through the grommet until you get the console in position. In the end you have to lift the console over the shift lever and maneuver it into place under the radio/over the fusebox. 6) Install screws to hold down console and install shift knob. 7) Attach choke cable ends to carbs. 8) Crank, Vroom, Squeal. Hope that helps.

Well that brings us back to your original post, getting the car running/driving while you prep the 7MGTE. Sounds like you have lots of parts and a comfort level with that engine so I see no reason to start off on the L28ET route. Get ahold of some of the thicker spacers, try posting in the WTB forum(s) and they shouldn't be very expensive. I have seen posts in the past of people making their own out of wood or acrylic even. Get the ZTherapy JustSU video and get the car running. SUs have to be REEEEAAALY trashed for your car not to run at all so you should be able to get the car going with some cleaning and adjusting. Then you can drive the car while getting ready for the engine swap. I drove around for a year with the dreaded flat top carbs, then switched to some round-tops for another year before I was ready for my L28ET swap and it worked out great.

DO IT! Do not pass go, do not collect $200. Go directly to turbo swap city. You will not regret it.

Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure on this one either. The cam lobes look good - no wear or discoloration as opposed to the rocker pads which have a distinct groove worn in them. I'm hoping one of our resident experts will chime in. Maybe this is one of those "maybe, maybe not, do at your own risk" situations.

Noisy hydraulic valves have been driving me crazy so I spent some time this weekend pulling the lifters out and cleaning them. *Thanks to Cygnusx1 for the excellent write-up on this subject*. I noticed that my rocker pads are all worn so I'm going to send them off to get them resurfaced. Do I need to mark them so that they can be put back in their original positions? I understand it is normal practice not to mix-n-match valve components due to the wear patterns, but since I'm getting these resurfaced, it doesn't seem like I should worry about matching the rocker to its original valve. Is that correct? Just wanted to get some expert advice before I mix them all up!

Sounds like the starter inhibitor switch that was on your auto trans but now is missing. The auto had a switch that closed when in neutral or park. You can jump the wires that went to that switch (could be dangerous because the car can start in gear), you can plug the wires into a neutral safety switch if your manual trans has one (my T5 out of an 83 turbo has this) or you can use a switch on your clutch pedal that closes when it is fully depressed.

If it's just the oil pressure gauge that's giving you trouble it is most likely the sensor located on the block behind the alternator. They are notorious for failing. Test by grounding the connector at the sensor and see if the gauge goes full scale. If it does, sensor is bad.

I need one too! PM me if your friend finds any and wants to re-sell one.

When my gauges recently went dead (73 240z) I cleaned the connections under the steering column (ignition switch, turn signal switch, headlight switch) and that fixed the problem.

What was the solution? Post it here so that future searchers can find it. That's the true value of the forum. Even if the answer was "I was out of gas".

You're right about the gauge lights. I have a loose one in my speedometer and it's driving me crazy. Wiggle, wiggle - ON, wiggle, wiggle - OFF!

Problem solved! I started with the basics: Cleaned grounds at the battery, starter, fender well -- no change. Then I checked all the fuses with an ohm meter, cleaning as I went -- no change. Then I checked all the electrical connectors I could reach under the dash, wiggling and snugging each one -- no change. Then I pulled the cover from beneath the steering column and checked/wiggled all the connectors for the ignition, combo and turn signal switch -- BINGO! So I'm still not sure of the exact cause but it probably had to do with the turn signal switch, since I noticed that the turn signals were not working when the gauges were out.

Are you sure about that? The FSM diagram shows a Black wire going to the clock, fuel/oil, water temp, and tach. That wire is shown to go to ground as well. I'm hoping someone may have had the same symptoms and could point me to a specific place in the harness to look into before I tear the whole dash apart . . .

If you have stock-ish '72 SUs the fuel mixture is indeed at the bottom, but it is more of a knurled "nut" than a screw. Maybe someone has replaced your carbs with downdraft webers? Pics would help.

Hey John, This post came up in my search so you might have some insight. The other night, while I was driving my 73/turbo the tach needle started bouncing wildly then died to zero. At the same time my temp, oil and fuel gauges (all stock) went dead. Ammeter still works. Everything else appears to work fine and the car runs so I know the current loop in the tach is still connected since that is how the coil gets it's signal. Where do you think the problem is? I'm guessing a common ground or power wire. I've been poring over the schematics and the gauges appear to have a common ground but I don't know where physically that wire is. They may also have a common power but I'm not sure exactly where that is either. Any ideas on where to look first, Oh Shredder of Wiring Harnesses? Thanks!

There's a difference? FWIW my 73/L28ET occasionally has hot re-start issues here in warm North Carolina without the fan. I'm planning on putting mine on ASAP.

I would replace the ignition relay. "Hotwiring" is only asking for trouble.