New2TheZ2006

Best I came up with is this. Shave the bumper, then cut the brackets behind the skirt and mount a cross bar behind the skirt on the cut / reduced brackets, so now you have "a hidden bumper" it still protects the fuel tank and can be pointed out to any officers so inclined to inquire.

here here, one more vote for Phils awesome ride. Me too soon, need wheels but anyone got info on what clears a stock suspension setup with the rims in the group buy?

S101 Black with Machined Spokes [Quantum.Tek.S101.18x7.5.4x100.73.42.blkwms] http://wheelstudio.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/1_49/products_id/10043 and Does anyone know how to see what they would look like on a blue Z?? I need wheels and don't know enough about clearances to guess. My car is stock and not lowered or anything. I want to do a brake conversion later , but that I dont believe will effect the wheels. Thanks:)

Go fiberglss it is nice and saw the complete panel only $150 good buy, uses vette lights.

I drove 2.1 miles to get mine. $1400 and it was a daily driver condition except needed battery. Lil rust I have found, during my paint job still in progress (going on four months). Anyone in Orlando give me good deal on shootin' the paint for me. Got the paint and all major work done, just need contrast coat sand and paint.

how much rust on the rail and pan indicates replacement is a must. Or can you just clean it up, apply POR15, patch, and then undercoat. I have on spot on the rear passenger side end of the rail with some rust, a small hole, and surface rust on the pan. I am not welding capable, so I have to find parts and sub it out, oh did I mention I am broke.... Any ideas. On an old bug, I cut the metal to shape, used a body panel adhesive and some rivets. How do we feel about that? I am in Orlando if someone has ideas in the area. Jon

Okay, Question. I have a stock, mostly, 2.8. I want a fuel rail for the look. I dont like the barbs with the hose to stock injectors and was told one of the Supra injectors work better. What does better mean? I was told with the Supra injector you can just hook the rail to the injector and then the injector to original injector hole. Is it this easy? I assume it will deliver more fuel, hence burn more gas, and maybe give more performance in responce to pushing on the gas. How far off am I? What do I want? A cleaner look with less conections to worry about hissing , leaks, etc. Would a fuel rail really be plug in and go no troubles, worries, etc or do you have to add more? Thanks for breaking it down for me. I am better with body work and brakes than engine stuff. PS Does increasing the throttle body size make a big difference too?

[ATTACH]2168[/ATTACH]Another pic

Well, I shaved my today. I will attach some picks. I did run into some snags. Here's what I did. 1- Removed the bumper and all rubber trim 2- Remove the driver's side cartridge there were three nuts inside the hatch towards the rear by the factory preaker bracket on the floor area 3- Drop the gas tank (use care the bolts holding the tank straps will break and are $5 and a week out from dealer so I made my own replacement from a u-bolt and welded the top of the old j-bolt to it for the right size catch) you must detach the fill/large hose (remove the wheel well cover in the r/r wheel area to gain access the the fill hose to pull it down, and two hoses running from the top of the tank to the overflow tank before you try to drop it and the sensor plug I was able to support the tank without removing the hoses to the pump and all and just shifted it down and to the side to acess the right cartridgeNote all these areas are best reached by removing all interior platic trim around the interior hatch area. 4- reinstall the gas tank and all the hoses 5- grind the lip off the back side of the cut outs in the rear skirt 6- weld metal behind the cut outs and where the bumper cart. brackets came through the rear skirt 7- fill the bolt holes with two part body panel adhesive 8- use good bondo to build up the skirt to a smooth surface ----here is where I have made it to so far---- 9- sand and finish bondo to make a nice surface to prime and so on I say bondo, but I am using a commercial grade bondo type filler I just dont remember the name of it. I got it from my friends shop.

Well if a Z member's dad owns the company. Cant we get a group buy or something? I would buy a set right now...... Help each other out?

Primadonna does that oval dual exhaust work on a 280z without removing the gas tank?

Oh, I missed your reply. What size are those wheels. I was thinking of 16 0r 17's what are the ones on your car?

Orange, being from FL I am thinking its a fruit and not a car color. On second thought (after seing your car), well, I kinda really like it. NICE JOB MAN... I hope my paint job turns out as nice, if I can pick a color. I am so undecided. WTG, nice ride. BTW what kind springs and struts did you use?

How we looking on these, got any extra? Have a 76 stock 2.8 and need new exhaust. Any recommendations, I want to make it dual out the rear or leg burners. All input desired, I am the noob here.

no Ferari Fly yellow.. That's what I am thinkg about doing. Can ya make it happen maybe with the Prince albert blue stripe down the center? Please please please????

Hold on, 316.2954 allows it if you look at it. You can do what you want as long as you meet the specifications for side mirrors in 316.294. You must install side mirrors making a reflective surface for the driver to see a minimum of 200 feet to the rear of the vehicle. If not it is a nonmoving citation which is $71.50 and no points on you license each offense. So, you can it looks like, but you can still get a ticket and may have to fight it in court if an officer just writes you under the improper or unsafe equipment statute. Then you have to argue your case in front of the hearing officer and appeal to the judge if the hearing officer rules against ya. This is NOT a legal opinion, but rather a reference for you to research and aid you in looking for the related statutes.

Remember those trucks, vans, etc were designed to have no rear window and mostly on purpose due to the loads they haul and that's why they have those ugly wide mirrors, I'd like to see your Z with them babies on it.That would be a new set of flares on the side of a Z. If your car was designed and produed with it (rear window)you need it. If you paint it I would think you violate the tint law and can get a citation under 316.294 for applying a film (opaque liquid film) tint violation Abstract: (a) Sunscreening material consisting of film which, when applied to and tested on the rear window glass of the specific motor vehicle, has a total solar reflectance of visible light of not more than 35 percent as measured on the nonfilm side and a light transmittance of at least 15 percent in the visible light range; however, sunscreening material which, when applied to and tested on the rear window glass of the specific motor vehicle, has a total solar reflectance of visible light of not ... Or to use the catch all 316.610 for improper or unsage equipment, because you can't obstruct the driver's view out of the vehicle. Do yourself a favor and DONT do that. If good officer stopped ya they'd just laugh and tell ya to fix it, with a fix it ticket. Then you'd be buying a new hatch or cuttin' out what you put in. If you really must, do what you want. Get a loan and be ready to pay fix it tickets whenever an officer decides to write you. That would be $49 a pop since you are not going to fix it. Oh and dont forget the first one you pay a day late your DL gets suspended and the reinstatement fees climb all the way to $500+. No fun. Having a window sounds pretty good to me.

I am on a budget. I have a family to feed. This is a hobby. I really aford this hobby or the car. My point being, I will send a couple bucks $20, that I can spare and if we all do I think we can make it. We succeed together and no one has to carry the whole burden, so lets join together on this venture and we can all benefit. Jon

Nice. Me likes

Here is how I fixed the problem. I put a relay inline from the ignition wire that goes to the starter. I ran it through a toggle switch for looks and a passive anti theft device. Then of course wired in the ground and battery positive lead. Since I installed the relay no more problems. It now draws power for the starter straight from the battery, which seems to have corrected the issue. I tried this relay fix based on an earlier post that early model 240, 260 and 280s had issue with the amount of current allowed to pass throught the ignition, which could cause starting problems. So, I went out on a limb and for under twenty dollars POOF, the problem is gone. As always thanks guys for all the input. PS Any opinions on if I should take out the injection and install a set of carbs? I got a friend who builds Porsche race cars who offered a set of carbs rebuilt and installed $50 total. I would like to loose the mess under the hood to clean it up a bit, but don't really have an opinion either way.

what is the rated draw through the fusable links, or how do I know what breaker, fuses, etc to get at auto zone?

Yup, been through two totally different starters and still the same problem.

I keep hearing the same thing, so guess what. I am going to listen. I will load test the battery on tuesday. If bad I will replace the who knows how old Panasonic battery. >LOL< That name brand should speak volumes. It must be cheap, and surely could be bad. If not I will replace the all black wires that connect to the battery. Then if no go, voltage regulator here I come. Thanks guys, I will keep yall posted. Jon PS Merry Christmas

The ignition turns, I hear what I believe to be the fuel pump spinning up, lights on the dash come on as if it is going to start, and I hear a single click. Does this thing have an inhibitore switch somewhere even though it is a four speed? Thing is I sit there for a couple seconds turn the key four or five times and it does turn over and start usually. If not right away within a few minutes, without any other attention. ps Click is not like the click click click of a bad starter not turning, or least not to me. But hey, who am I to say I am the novice here. Hope this clarifies my issue.

Cables look good far as I can tell. Does this thing have a starter relay, I dont see one listed in my Chilton book, but that doesn't mean it's not there, unless it never had one. Anybody know? I dont see it just tracing the yellow wire off the cylnoid, it goes into the harnes back into the firewall and into a connector with alot of other wires. Does the stock system have a starter relay? So lost, but dont want to just wire in a push to start button (lol).