roger280zx

Look at Monzter's intake thread.

Looks to me like someone fabbed the skirts and the airdam is the same old plastic one they sell everywhere.

These at big motors, the displacement is deceptive. BIIIG LONG HEAVY crank shaft, + stock rods and pistons are incredibly heavy by modern standards. Yes you absolutely should run the best balancer you can afford. I don't know personally, but every Z engine guy I've ever talked to said not to run a L24 balancer on a L28 and if you think about that it does make a lot of sense. Now that a good condition USED balancer cost between $100 and $200, NEW original $250-$300, and VERY good after market unit around $500. For me and my Z, that will never be judged for the amount of factory overspray on the balancer, we run the BHJ. Go talk to the guys at the track and see what they are running. That is what I did.

Just order the listed parts from an online supplier. Like rockauto or anyone who will ship there. There are more benefits to more modern spindles than just being able to bolt on CHEAP coilovers like Megan. Tein makes nice ones, QA1, Penske there are many. I like to swap the better brakes and stuff at the same time.

Little ole ladies blow transmissions all the time because of a leak in the rad. If it is an auto the question should be how BIG and how many coolers.

Trust me I know, my car needed cf too. I settled for fg.

The problem is the market, certain vendors have made hood and hatch, but nobody buys them so they eventually stop production.

Later rear control arms are different. S13 coil overs drop in the later rears, but not in the early ones.

It has been a while, but I fitted 15x10 5.5" on 11.5x23x15 under stock fenders in the back. I'm pretty sure the rear fit with out spacers, but the front no way, not even with 30mm spacers. Fronts were rubbing the strut.

I would imagine the intake restriction and lower rev limit would take care of the excessive noise and horsepower (I can't believe there is such a thing). If it were me I would build it into the carb spacer, you can build them with simple tools and they swap easily. Full disclosure- the extent of my smog knowledge was acquired when my tech told me to pull my brake booster vac line in my 86 corolla to clean it up. It didn't work, I moved and haven't had a smog fit since. This all sounds incredibly stifling to me... best of luck!

What factory under trays are you mimicking? The only reason I ask is because depending on the car it probably has nothing to do with downforce, many modern cars have whiz bang features underneath just to make them a bit more quiet and squeeze another .003 mpg. Please keep us posted on development and testing.

According to the math 90x90 is 3.435, whether it has a 6.00 rod or a 60.00 rod it is 3.435 liters.

Hmm... have any of you who have performed this swap collected any measureable data using the same tire, spring rate, brakes etc. from a before/after swap comparison? Or is the consensus that brand new parts from a new chassis works better than wore out stuff on old tires. That would be a no brainer. Not trying to hate on what you guys have done as I understand it is a ton of work. We are currently in the process of swapping the hubs and bearings (s13), coilovers, and brakes (z32) on my personal s130 and I am looking for appreciable gains. To say that it is a better design could be considered somewhat of a stretch when you look at actual race cars that use trailing arm suspension. Rally, road, autox, even drag racing but more specifically anytime you want to put (a lot) of power down on corner exit from what I have seen the semi trailing arm is superior.

Be sure to specify a premium vinyl when dealing with sign shops. Most use inferior/ nonautomotive product for their typical application. Be sure to allow adequate cure time for the area you're applying it. If you think you may want to remove it later I recommend using wrap vinyl as it is much easier to remove.

The absolute most fun per dollar mods that I have done to a zx (with turbo swap being the exception) have been to remove weight. It certainly will not hurt your gas mileage either. Loose the cat if you can, and aluminum 2.5" pipe yields a small power increase and drops 45 or 50 lbs. De-power the rack or swap to a rack if you have a recirculating ball, loose the A/C, power antenna, tag light, cruise control, small battery mounted on frame rail right next to the starter, LW flywheel. Include some misc brakets, bitchin betty, yata yata pretty soon you have a 2500-2600 lb GT Z with original safety, reliability, and comfort. And it hardly costs anything. Well maybe not comfort if you ditch the AC that's up to you. The aero of the zx is soooo much better than an s30, typically they lack some performance because they where so weighted down, but if you remove that weight...