piston

no....you are suppose to put the rust bullet onto the bare surface itself, not over the bed liner. either way, it acts as a protection and seals it in so no rust/moister can penetrate though. i used it on my panels and work the paint over it. its real similar to por15. i did it by using an disposable aerosol can and used acetone mixed so thin it out and spray it on. the acetone dries quickly and leaves only the rustbullet behind. it came out nice and smooth like if it was in a can! my floors with rustbullet/acetone mix coating...no primer!!! all rustbullet...

hey i know them two! those two are pretty cool guys...

without a hood scoop to draw in air, i doubt its going to help it cool if its set under the hood. now if it has scoops/duct in the front to guide on coming air through from under the intercooler out the top through the hood vents, that would make sense. you cannot go wrong with FMIC!

thats a good point! however the GE throttle body is not any higher than the height of the manifold plus it sits in the center higher spot of the hood. the bottom has a good 3/4 clearance and the only issue i see is the oil pan because it has an extra piece of aluminum material with a bolt hole but no bolt in the front of the oil pan on driver side. that can easily be taken care of by shaving it down so it will not rub the u-bolt on the rack. not that im planning to use the GE manifold anyways, its just to give viewers an idea just in case someone plans to keep the factory GE manifold.

why not just use black primer for a decent flat look temporary instead of actual rattle can paint? you dont have to sand as much later and you can paint over scuff primer instead of sanding off old rattle can paint! however rattle can primer is a great temporary protection...

too bad you dont live in california. i see good conitions all from north all the way down south for under that price on craigs list every once in a while. i got mine for 500.00 with minumal rust. to find out this thing has never been hit, touched or modded. score!!!!

good install. you made it looks too easy...some will use this im sure.

i will be grinding the cage corners with a disc wheels and actually i been doing the same thing to the fuel support bars on pics above the joints im welding together. if i dont grind it, it will not stick like how i want it and plus it pops like crazy. but i can play with it and get the right setting on different areas depending on thickness. i will be putting carpet around it and use trunk weather strip seal in between the cell and tubes to cover up the 1/2inch gap so nothing will fly up into the trunk area. i was thinking about making a cover that can lift up and fill and drop back down on top to cover the tank but i like the look of a nice flat tank visible in the back with nice new carpet surrounding. i had a question for the guys running open tank like this. does it smell like fuel after filling or while driving? i would assume...

i got bored so i snap some pics of my fuel tank installed. i used 1.5 and 1 inch square tubing plus some pretty thick sheet metal. took me two weekends and finally done today. my batery will drop in next to the fuel tank and everything should sit flush and clean once carpet lays down around them. this looks easy and simple but was the most fabrication/cutting and welding i have ever done so far. here is a pic of the tubes welded in except for the cell supports. heres how it looks like with my dirty tank inside the square. the pic is dark but you get an idea where the sump hangs from the rear view. i dont have any pics of the bullet proof overkill batery box before welding in but this is a pic after i welded it in and patch up the opennings with some thick sheet metal. its not going anywhere! im thinking about welding in a mesh on the bottom of the batery floor. ill be using seam sealer around the tack area to where it meets the chaisis shetmetal and cover it up. thats it for now. roll cage is up next...

just make sure you have them nice and low and don't stack brackets on top of each other as it will raise your seat.

ey, whats up, im from sacramento also and you can find dry ice at savemart on fulton and marconi. lol. but yea, i would not use it if i was you. i tried it 4 weeks ago and it takes longer than you would think. you would have to leave it on there and work sections at a time only because it will only cover so much 1x1 square. i used a nice machanix glove with cushion to protect my palm and chisel/hammer/screwdriver away. way faster than waiting for the ice to kick in. i used a pudding knife to scrap/knock extra tiny pieces off because it covers more ground with one sweep. as crappy as it looks, it same out alright with just one coat of rustbullet spray.

a couple guys have pics and info on this in the seats interchange thread if i recall. s2k seats are comfortable and sweet...

looks like my game seat from walmart!

there really is no advantage over the 7m besides that it is a newer engine. both blocks are good for 600-700 factory with the right fuel setups either way but that's considering in the higher numbers. with the money invested in the 7m machine work and parts why not get yourself a bell housing from driftmotion.com or ??? and get yourself a decent manifold and a nice size turbo? with the two blocks in their current conditions, i am almost wanting to bet that you will spend less on the 1jz and save yourself some extra cash for other good stuff like brakes, etc...and still hit the power goal you are aiming for. i havent build a 1jz myself, but a lot of the guys over at supramania tends to say that the parts interchange with a newer 2jz.

i don't see why you would want to build a 7m over the 1jz when the 7m has bearing damages while the 1jz only has blown rings? with the machine work needed for the 7m, you can save yourself some time and just get a 1jz bell housing and a new set of rings and your almost ready to go! i dont want to change your thoughts but the 1jz is also consider an upgrade in the toyota L6 series. both engine is easy HP when built and all depends on what your familiar with. i would go 1jz over the 7m IMO.

the beta has the same design(tube mount support), thats how i got the idea. might be redoing another one since my weak point really is the 90degree corner area and it makes sense! but then again, i might just put gussets on it like the top of your(vinzxt) cross member mount area. the tube piece is is not welded yet, i hope you dont have the wrong idea that im using 1/8 steel rods to hold it to the cross member? i was going to add gussets and box it in like this. http://betamotorsports.com/products/products.php?cat=7

vihnzxt, i seen your mount back when i was in the v8 scene and you first posted your pics! i agree on the 45degree corners. but the piece welded onto your frame to bolt the cossmember, i dont know if i would to that. it just relies on a 1/8 piece welded to frame rails with no gussets. even though the factory cross member has the same design. im going to weld this piece in like the betamotorsports one. edit.... ok, i think i am just going to make another one using a cage tubing that i have left over and have it bent up then welded to wider frame plates. and use a angle square tubing to rest the mounts on like zgads.

vihnzxt, i seen your mount back when i was in the v8 scene and you first posted your pics! i agree on the 45degree corners. but the piece welded onto your frame to bolt the cossmember, i dont know if i would to that. it just relies on a 1/8 piece welded to frame rails with no gussets. not dissin your mount, just a thought even though the factory cross member has the same design. im going to weld this piece in like the betamotorsports one. i still have to box it up with gussets anyways and like i mention, if anything cracks, im sure the mounts will rip first. i know the betamtorsport one is all tig welded but still runs up to the frame plates and just tig around tube also, am i confuse? everythings all back and forth. wheres the hp going to really hit on the cross member?

i went to double check the plates that will be welded to the frame and it almost reaches the top of the frame rail and only about 1/2inch of space. that shouldn't be a problem! remember the factory cross member is still in place to tie the rails from flexing too much! the piece is thick! as thick as my cage tubing!!! the cross member is not that hard to make IMO. its actually really easy and nothing to it. just line it up and tack, then take it out and weld.

just go 2jz and call it!

you dont sound rude at all buddy, just a comment! im not sure how to explain this but im going to connect the 90degree area with a trangle 1/8 inch plate outside edge to egde and box in the plates on the frame inside corners. if you look at the beta motorsport cross member, it does not go over the frame rails however, it does reach the edges! hmmm... my plates are 3x3, i just slightly cut i line down the middle so i can fold it and welded that area back. thats why it looks like its two piece. trust me, i look into the betamotorsports piece plenty of times, in fact when it first came out, my buddy bought one! i looked into 5.0 mustang mounts, grits 1jz mount, and all kinds of other cross mounts, i don't see how this thing would snap before the motor mounts would! i really come to figure this should do the job! seriously, what does everyone else think? i'm starting to have second thoughts now but i'm working with this for now. oh, about the welds, it looks kinda funky because i grinded it down a bit but through the helmet lenses, the edges melted together to one so it should hold!

Finally had the time to build my 2jz cross member mount. It came out alright and hope it will hold at least 500-600hp. made it out of 1.5 inch square tubing .120 thick. Still need to finish it up and box it all together but just an idea for now. Looks like it should work. 3/4 offset towards the passanger side like original position and is dead on position. i will be using my blown na ge longblock for mockup. dont plan to use the stock manifold. looks ugly ass hell IMO. i used 1/8 inch steel rod to keep it together and finish later out of the chasis. makes life so much easier. back view... another front view.... Heres how it will sit. 3/4 clearance over rack but no pics on that area yet. but you get the idea. love the room i have for turbo. plan on running a t88. j/k. 1/2-5/8inch of firewall clearance. hope it will throw my shifter back more since its so close. i dont see why the stock manifold wouldnt work? seems to have more than 1/2 inch worth of clearance. should i be the first? or did someone already actually used the stock ge manifold? i hate the look of it anyways. havent seen one running yet in a s30. here you can see the oil pan hanging an inch or so under the factory cross member. look in between the red jackstands! and to back it up, i will be running a 8 point cage. heavy ass hell. 1 3/4 mild steel tubing .120 thick. its not welded yet.i just slap it all together for a quik pic and that is not how the center bar will look. the hoop is actually higher and the center angled bars will be mounted on the second level under thestorage box next to the tunnel. the cross bar actually sits 4 inches higher also where te bend is at. thats it for now. nothing until i get the cage welded in, fuel tank cage put together and weld in etc..

im surprise you are able to keep it bare metal without browning. mine starts to yellow and brown in a couple days if i leave it like yours. i had to primer it.

as hard the paint is, you would imagine it knocking off the rust just like sand. my sand blaster does not even come close to this. that must a be a new one using dry ice? never seen it before.

if you are talking about the aluminum brackets thats bolts to the block then they are wrong. you dont want to use the lexus ones, you want the later model supras. are you sure the 2jz brackets even bolt up to the 7mgte?so far i have seen everyone else making their own brackets for the 7m swap.