piston

no. not worth it!

i think someone mentioned it was zero offset.

repaint the chaisis today after two days of bordy work on the clear coat run and minor defects/low on driver side. it will never be perfect so oh well, came out better than first time. 3 coats of base. 3rd mist coat to even out metalic. 2 coats of clear wet on wet. roof. one tiger stip in the middle but thats ok, thats where my cut off was. but notnoticeable. seems like its the same pic over and over buts its progress for me and a crap load of sanding and prep work. i have a feeling its going to be slightly off color by a bit but we'll see what happens when its all together. i have a new solution to take care of the clear runs. use a DA and 800grit, machine DA the area dry.. fallow 1000grit by hand andbuff it out.

Heres a list of the import and domestic 2009-2010 color chips and codes. its not the exact color because its printed but you get the name and color code and google it to get an idea of what color interests you. hope it works. factory codes are dead on. imports 2009-2010 http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/shared/formula/documents/2009_MS_Import_ColorBook.pdf domestic 2009-2010 http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/shared/formula/documents/2009_MS_Domestic_ColorBook.pdf

too bad this only works for 6 cylinders.

same thing. they are just making it short.

i bet itll lose to a 2jz!!! j/k. thats gotta be a hot engine bay. thats a piece of art right there. everything is so nicely fitted. sweet...

i see alot of guys on here running this lsd in rb swap, v8, etc. i dont see why it cant hold an lt1 t56. i punch my old lt1 all day with stock open diff r200 and never had a problem. not even a broken u joint. was in the 340torque range. i say just get it and call it. satan knows his diff stuff from reading other diff theads. ! thumbs up!

damn, i would jump on this with a heart beat if i have the cash. you must be looking because you speak faster than me, i just seen it on craigs! you better get it before someone jumps on it. its a steal at that price. diff itself sits around the $600.00 range minus axles.. if you dont like it, trade it for my q45 hort nose r200 vlsd. ehehe.this is the real deal!!!! http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/1405860603.html

i might have one. ill check later tonight. brand new on my old z but dont know if its still around the garage. let you know.

i have 6 points on my record currently. 1. dui 2. speeding on my 06 zx6r 636 under suspension 3. stop sign 4. speeding 5. speeding again at 5mph above limit and went to court and pilot showed up and still lost the case. wow all that for 125.00 out of me. dumb chp. was doing 70mph on freeway on 65mph. wow....im shocked at how bored these guys are. but somehow i still manage to keep my license!

thats going to look clean. make sure you dont have any waves in your panels or it will show for sure..

the runs are a pita. im considering redoing the panel because of the clear running. no matter how much you wetsand it, the run wave will be there as it all goes down at the same levelwhen you sand. its not noticeable but like i say, because i know its there, i can see it. plus i pulled it out into the evening sunlight and notice minor metalic flakes glow more in some spots from certain angles, annoys me. im going to redo the body rear panels over since i got extra paint and clear. im just going to reclear the whole side panels. damn...lol. looks good from 10 ft away though!!!

this weekend i touched up the doors with bondo on low areas and reprimered them saturday. wetsand this morning and just finish spraying this 10 mins ago. is so freaken hard to spray metalic on flat areas and not have dark spots but i think i managed to pull off this one being patient and walking around the doors looking for dark areas as i lay down mist coats of metalics on to even things out. the doors on the z are so flat its almost impossible to smooth a ding flat. if you have a beat up ding up odoor, have fun..here you can see my low spots i touched up on the white round spots. for some reason i had a high spot. and more lo spots on passenger door. check out the 220 scratches. both sanded down and sitting waiting for paint as i mix. after 3 coats of base metalic and a mist 4th coat. 2-3 coats of wet on wet clear for this clear im using and dont worry about wasting clear, just dump it and throw the extra away. i use to try and use as much as i can and find mself dealing with runs. thats a PITA. they will sit here like this for the rest of the night until tomorrow. i have a bad habit of looking at them after fresh paint and screwing it up or accidently rubbing the fresh pant. so im calling it a night.

i just seen this thing back on craigs last weekend with the info corrected and up for sale again. lol...

palauoriginal, you car is on the ground man. how you get the wheels to sit so straight? i would imagine the car must ride real stiff?

ill go with you and i can drive it back??? im in for that one! j/k.

nah, i dont like the look of match painted zg's. i wanna keep it vintage and original zg style. im just going to do it flate black same goes to all my window and door chrome trims. or maybeeven gloss black? looks good on some of the japanese z's.

i got rid of my 1st z for not even 2 years. i just had to get another one seeing everyone with nice clean z's! 2 years later, im back in the game and back on the page. this time, this one is getting done te right way. get a z and keep yourself busy on free time. like i say to the girl, at least the money i spend, stays in the garage with me!

anythings possible. just be ready to do lots of modding to maake the z kit fit on the zx.

you did a good job on it. looking good. its going to look nice after wetsanding and polishing. when you wetsand, be very careful not to sand to the base especially going to reclear. im not sure on solid color but it sure shows on the metalic. two thumbs up.

clear it and leave about 4-5 inches of scuff area remaining so you can wetsand and buff it all together. do not reclear all the way to edge of scuff area!!! it should be easier to blend a solid color. that product is to spray on the edge of the fresh clear. it melts the edge of the fresh clear onto the original sluff clear for a finer finish.

your going to want to reclear it also, not just the base color. heres how i did mine. i sanded it down with 1000 grit 1ft pass the respray area and mask it off there. make sure you get a good smooth sand so use a grey fine scuff pad with scuff gel if availible because it will throw fisheyes in your clear if you dont get a good fine scuff. spray the area and feather it out leaving a 1ft scuff area between the mask base. tack rag run through the base and flash time of corse. now with the clear mixed, reclear it 4-6 inches pass the feather basecoat but the trick is to leave about 5-6"inch scuff area remaining between masking tape and new clear. then with an aerosal clear blending spray can availible from any automotive paint store, spray the cutoff line of the clear with the aerosol blending spray. what this does is melts the new clear into the old scuff clear. flash time, then wet sand it with 1500 and up only! and buff it out. it should come out clean. when you spray the blending spray, be careful to not make it run. the blending spray is not neccesary but i makes wetsanding blend area easier to work with instead of sanding blending in.

took some pics today. buffed it out yesterday. cant even tell where i faded and blended it in! i redid the rear driver side panel and wetsand it all out. pics are always nice to see!!! the flares are just there for mock up, still have to finsih it off with nutserts and welting strip and allen head screws for extra security so no punk theaf can snatch them! cant wait to get rid of these roller wheels and put on some ssr double step lip mesh wheels! hard to come by a 16" set with good negative offsets. the body line looks off in this pic but its actually not. too bad i dont have the doors painted and wheels to bling yet! i havent wetsand buff the lower section yet on this side of the fender yet. too lazy... so far im pretty happy with my work. this is all new to me and im no paint pro. this is my first real paint job for myself and i been spending alot of time redoing it just to get it right. one little defect and it bothers the crap out of me beacause i know its there!

in that case, i dont think you would need rails and can get away with no cage for stiffening. however, as mentioned above, if you have the funds, make it happen because anyone can use a cage for safety. just get a good lsd diff to deliver power to the ground and you should be ok. i didnt have any problems with my old lt1 and im sure it was up in the 320+hp range. once it catches traction, its set...