piston

well, i primered it again today for the second time and i was amazed at how clean the primer came out. it dried to a shine and looks like a nice gray single stage paint... and it still shows to barely noticable dings about .001 deph. lol. [/url] heres a shot of my spray gun if anyones interested. runs about 150.00 retail at a local napa autoparts. company who makes it is called sharpe. model fx3000 HVLP heres a pic of the cowl i just color sanded last friday, cut, buff and polished... heres my mirror effect hatch at night inside the garage...gotta make sure it shines in the parking lot at night...lol..

I worked on driver side panel for a month and a half because it has a dent in it. i hit it out and layed numerouse times of lightweight bondo on there and it still isnt all straight and also, the rear line was a PITA where the rear body line meets the top wheel well where it curves out. i cannot get it smooth so i ended up cutting it and running flares and solved my problem...

Good to hear. I just wet sanded the car again today an got it all ready for the next and last coat of primer before paint. i wont be spraing anytime soon since ill be busy next weekend. but i will be color sanding my fender so pics will beup sometime next week...

check out toyota color SUNDANCE METALIC if you like hot colors. it resembles a hot oldschool color at the same time modern metalic shade. it was my second color of choice, but the color was expensive so i had to go a different route. just a thought, it would be the first and only z with that color. i would b so jeliouse....it looks good at night and day time.... http://www.flickr.com/photos/21560343@N08/2695356759/

well, youtube i your best friend. you can learn alot of stuff from there. anyways, again like i mentioned bfore, body work isnt all that hard, its just time and patience. it takes about 3 layers of bondo or mayb even more to get it perfect. i learn as i go and learn more and more how to spray the more i do it. its all a learning expierience from hands on work. this is my first body/paint job project. it isnt too bad when i come to think of it, just alot of sweeping and cleanning and patience. i like to do my own work and take all the credit for it instead of someone else working on it.

If you dont mind me asking, how much did you pay for the spray job?

the pearl pigment shows really good on your blue. i sprays piece by piece so pigmets was out of the deal. i thought about it but didnt want to go too fancy. also like your epsilons and 1jz deal. im aiming for 2jz but hope i can still manage to maintain a nice set of jdm meshes and not spin crazy. are you just piling it on top ofeachother or actually sanding it down before the new coat?

Cockerstar, im using a HVLP gun with a 1.3mm tip made by sharpe. name of gun is finex3000 Menzzer37, im hoping to be the first 09 gtr grey metalic but im sure someone has one already. prepping is important or any small waves will show on a smooth surface. ill post more as i go. Thanks for the comments. im always jelious of peoples clean ass Z car. I only want a good decent one..

Whats up! Havent made a tread in a while now. Got a 74 260z now and this time doing body work and paint first. I really hate photo sizing and this wireless keyboard cant keep up with my typing so bare with me. I have been working on this since this year of Feb 09. Bought for 500.00 bucks towed her home. I have lots of pics but cant find half of the album of when i bougt it to show how crappy she looked. Ill post them if i find them. It was a dark brown in color with single stage maaco style... Started rippin it apprt the next day and working on it as much as possible. I stripped and grinded it down to bare metal except the doors. I gotta say for 6 months and full time job, i got alot done. Made this thread just for you DIY guys...these pics are half way through the prgress already but you get the idea. had a bunch of bondo on it as i took t down getting ready to wetsand for faster cut already stripped engine bay making sure the side lines were straight heres another view, notice the cut fenders and holes for the zg's rear zg test fit looks slightly forward to me? the primer on here is rattle can just for protection... here are the parts i took off to primer since i didnt want to primer everything on the car and miss corners. I sprayed these in the gargage by the way. This is my first time ever spraying my brand new HVLP 1.3mm spraygun. Hell, this is my first time ever even using a spray gun and actually spraying. pushed it outside to get some brighter pics. I gotta say, this was the first time i seen the z with a solid color and it motivated me to work even more to get her done. So i got my paint already and could not wait to start spraying. I got bored and attemped my first ever spray job. I got a very special clear coat for this one and dont know of anyone who has actually used it. I was told 09 and up nissan has this on ther new models and had to get it. Anti scratch resistant clearcoat! Yep. thats right, scratch it and it will dissaper in 5-7 days without touching. sound too good so i went ahead and got some. after spraying i tstd it and it woks.i nibbed it with a pen and it faded in 3 days ad disapeard the fallowing week. nice..... i got it from work and got a hell of a deal on my spraying equiptment and paints etc... lets just says it retails for 200 plus a quart. working in the automotive business, i got a fat hookup on everything. so far i spent about 600 in paint plus gun, primer etc... really good quality paint too. Martin senoir tec/one...Not too many of you probably knows but napa auto parts sells this line of paint. just dont get crossfire brand. anyays, here are the results of some parts i sprayed... WHO SAYS YOU CANT SPRAY IN TH GARAGE??? THIS WAS DONE WITH NO BOOTH...right on the table...lol.. I was really shocked at how well it turned out the fact that i never even sprayed a real spray gun before. Notice it has runs on the bottom headlight cover on the top pic. it will be cover by the bumper so i didnt care for it. And here are the results i got for my fenders. and heres the cowl... i didnt paint these on the car, i had them laying on the masked table when i painted them. i then went ahead and wet sanded the fenders with 1500,2500 the 3m trazact 3000 grit and medium cut, compound and polished and this is what i saw... Its not too noticeable in the pitures but it was hazzy and had a loss of gloss. i was pissed... cut and buffed over and over. still didnt work. stated looking at everyhing and noticed the hardener was kinda hazzy looking like donut glazz. humm, since it was scratch resistant i didnt think too much of it. I then reorder another hardener just to look at it and aug hah. my friggen hardener was probably open and left open too long or something since it was already white looking. it was like that when i purchased it and the new one was nice and clear. i was angry because i had to resand it all off and redo it all over. i complained and ofcorse got all my paint replaced at free of charge and got another nice bucket of 2009 GTR grey metalic plus 3 qts of clear. Oh well, had to snap some shots of the ZGs mounted anyways since i was impatient and just had to get an idea of how my Zs gonnas look like. Since my paint was on delay, i figure ill go ahead and start priming the rest of the car/body. masked the floor and car, open the garage a foot or two. wet the floors, ready to spray. the problem i had was that my craftsman 6hp 30gal keeps sucking power so i had to hold every now and then for it to pump up or it will trigger the circuit breaker. PITA. then i would have to go ouside and reset it in the middle of spraying. friggen suck. oh well... Primer layed down 1hr ago from pic taken. 4 hrs later.. It dried up pretty decent. its only the first layer to fill the small imperfections so i didnt care to well i layed it down since i will be wet sanding it anyways ad reprime. Its a job but you cant expect to lay down one layer and call it because eventually you will see minor defects here and there and touch it up again with lightweight bondo like i did and reprime it over for a good seal. Since i was waiting for my paint replacement i wetsanded the body down and touched up minor imperfections i missed and i missed alot too. I then recieved my new paint so time to respray again after a 2 weeks of resanding the parts i sprayed prior. This time im using a different type of clear. Im using extreme speed clearcoat which was perfect for my garage application. bugs had no chance on this one since its out of dust in 10-15 minutes at 70 plus degree and lays down smoother. heres how the fender turned out. It has minor orange peel but its not anything wetsand cannot take out. I was impressed at how fast the clear dried and clean it came out. i also sprayed the hatch and this is was the result after wetsanding the clear 1500,2500,3000. cut, compound then polished. It turned out pretty good. i can see the neighbors house accross the street. And this is how my car sits in the garage today...again, WHO SAYS YOU CANT GET A CLEAN SPRAY JOB WITHOUT A BOOTH???

Its a hybrd seat. Its called caddyiper.

Im like your body man also. Its been a week and a half since i touched my z's bodywork. Been working on it for 5 months.

If only i had machine access, mine would look as good as yours...

Looks aight. Are you using 1/8 inch plates? Clears the speedo cable right?

Khoyos, not bad for only 6 posts. i think you nailed the guys questions. By the way, nice clean factory looking swap.

Too bad the RBs are not double step lips.

The getrag throws the shiftter pretty far back it looks like. I always though it was bigger and beefier.

Thats pretty specific. I dont see how 97 would be different but I could be wrong. Im probably better off getting the bracket for the 1jz/2jz to 240sx and modify it if i was to purchased brand new brackets. I was hoping it would be a easy bracket to get besides dealer.

I had 240z air dam on my old 75 280z. Tough fit but it works. Trimming on 2 center piece where the frame rails runs down and thats pretty much it. Also either the 280z is a bit wider or what, but mine was a bit stretched to make it work. I did have a cheap ebay fiberglass one though.

What motor mount brackets are you guys using on the block? I mean, from what toyota chasis? I have some mount/block brackets here but it sticks out too far and interfears with my steering arm. No way it will clear, I notice the sc300 is lightly shorter by 1/2 inch but still wont clear. Im talking about the aluminum brackets that bolts right onto the block. The ones i have came off a jdm 2j n/a (unknown chasis) and sticks out way too far. I have a feeling the supras are shorter but not sure. Im doing my mount mockup and dont want to build new brackets if i dont have too. Let me know what you guys know. Thanks.

VERY VERY VERY good and useful info alot of us probably didnt know.

Your floor pans looks pretty good before you even treated it. Im using navel jelly which is a rust desolver and rinsing it with water. Turns the rust spot black instantly and prime it after.

Love the ccws. The ccws gives it a hard kick and bumps up your points by lots.

you can find alot of negative offsets in the 6 lug pattern. Run an offroad wheel with low pros.

Sucks to see you not finish. I will be getting my engine as soon as im finish painting it. Had the z for 5 months now and moving quick. Strip down to metal, body work and painting already. Build thread should start by the next couple of months.

Wow, thats a while now since you been working on this. Must be nice to hear it run. I had a question not to throw it off topic but how easy was it to wire up the painless chasis harness? Im in the process of painting my z and creating jz mounts. I will soon creat a build thread fallowing after you and grits. Still undecited to go 1z or 2j. butshould be nice.