piston

lol. the jegs one can be welded in any spot to your needs. as far back as you want, or up high as you want. only a dumb ass will weld it in how it comes(hopefully not any of us here). again, its base off a basic fitment on a 240z chassis. its not made to loop right over your head. mine is a bit up(im shorter), and there is still a 6" gap between my head and hoop. as for me, its better to have a hoop closer(clear helmet) than having the roof crushing your head and the hoop saving your seats. as far as t-boning, your pretty much ass out and wear a helmet at all time because if your not hitting the hoop, your head is swinging through the window.

if its not a hassle, would any of you two post pics of how the tire would look on the wheels? curious on look of thickness from side view.

shika805, your car's coming along clean. i dig the color stance. mine will look really similar. i got lazy and decided to just keep my chrome trims original. i guess to match the wheel lip and give it that classic chrome. the black on gray looks sick. 280zvador, my wheels originally had the same star centers like yours. the previous owner switched them out for the mesh design. it bolts right up since simmon's only made so many designs. if you ever come across a cheap bent up set of simmon meshie's in 15's for cheap, it worth the buy just for the center meshes. interchangeable!!!

that would totally suck if you crack the ringlands. i thought about going all out also but now i got a n/a planning to run it first and take care of all the wiring issues and drive around in the ge until i can save up for parts, turbo etc. sucks to have it park so long. and with it all build up, and not run right, so many issues to look at due to so many parts being deleted or switched. na-t will be more than enough for me. keep us posted.

are you having vibration issues?

good stuff. your work space is just as tight as mine at my old house. any pics on the trans mount?

i think sparks280zt meant trading the bike with cash on top, not bike plus getting cash on top. bikes are nice. i traded my 75 280z lt1 t56 clean clean swap for a 06 ninja 636 back in 07. worth the trade then. now the bike has way lower value and my old z is probably worth even more now. sold the bike for 4800 but could have gotton 6-7g for the z. it all depends on how bad you want a bike and how much you dont want to pay for two wheels.

hopefully my 3.54 does great with my r154 trans and a .82 a/r exhaust side snail.

i will give it a shot. i did mines also a while ago and had no idea so i didnt touch it then. now im in school learning about this stuff at universal technical institute(automotive tech school). wow, i am amazed at how much more i know and understand these different style joints. here is my take down on the removal. the inner is called a rzeppa joint which is more popular on fwd but since the same style joint is used in the IRS for flexability RWD vehicles. it is used on the inside unlike fwd that requires angle on outside as it steer's. rwd has less outter angle movement so the style joint is used on the inside as the diff itself is almost mounted solid. it is very similar to the outter joint but does not slide in and out. if i recall, my z31 did not have female groove on the cage itself to lock it in place from sliding outward instead it has a snap c clip to give it a stop so it will only move inward so far towards the shaft side. if it does have a female groove for the snap ring to hold it in place, which i have seen other applications, just use a snap ring plier depending on which style snap ring before sliding cage off shaft. now on the cage itself(rzeppa joint), the ball bearing slots on the cage will have square design instead of round and there will be two loner more oval design on opposite sides(only two). look carefully to see which ones are the oval ones and those are the two that will be hammered on cage end to raise the opposite side upward first to release the bearings from the oval slot. use a brass punch and hammer the cage end until opposite side is lifted and ball should just fall out. work your way around until all the balls fall out with the cage still inside. now the two longer oval slots are the key to get the cage out of the joint housing(race) after all balls have been remove. use these oval slots to clear the corners on inside jousing housing and work them out assuming it does not have a female c clip holding it in. another trick is to keep the shaft still intact inside the cage to move it around(control). once the cage is off, pretty much you know what to do from there. clean and pack it up with your favorite grease and reinstall using the same procedure with the two oval slots going in first and the ball bearing one by one(it just drops in), you might have to slightly tap cage with the hammer to control the cage angles.. hope this helps. sorry if it doesn't make sense. tried my best to describe the process!

no problemo. my take on.....if your really looking for 700hp, your definitely going to want to go all out with the r230 set up to be on the safe side. as far i know, the r230 is the strongest independent rear suspension out the nissan/datsun family vehicles. the longnose r200 have seen those hp numbers as shown in some of these threads. but me personally, i would not rely on it and that is max. however, i seen guys on here with the long nose r200 setup and z31 turbo cv shafts pulling nice high hp numbers. again, the weak spot becomes the factory stub axles. as far as a solid r200 longnose swap goes, i think the only thing im missing is the mm billet stub axles and a nice proven lsd. that should make it 600hp hopefully safely(highway), i hope! im not running yet so i cant say for sure. one person lucky doesnt mean its proven IMO. i keep saying longnose because the q45 is identical to the r230 but consider a shortnose r200 so there wont be any confusion. i am almost positive that as you collect info and links for your build, you are going to find that 700hp is kinda crazy for the s30 on streets, transmission plan will change(r154 at 700 is stretching), rear end will change, turbo size will change(lag), and eventually youll find yourself going smaller on things and making it more useful and reliable and enjoyable on the streets. a 700hp z is stupid outta control fast on the streets so plan what you want to do because if you want to enjoy it as much as possible and drive it as much as possible and show it off as much as possible (like me) and idle perfectly at a stoplight and still bash 95% of cars on the streets and get 25-27 MPG under boost but leave cars on the freeway like their in neutral position, stay in the mid range build because 500-600hp is down right dangerous in a s30 and reliable from a 2jz. with the r154 at 700hp, im almost positive you will get smoke on the streets everytime unless you plan on running 26x10" slicks daily because of traction issues however you will rip the crap out of the other on the freeway at higher speeds. zgad on here does 9's with 700hp range 2jz and he's on gm auto trans so no shifting and side bashing like a manual would. but in a 5spd, its a whole different story. your car will change directions in the first 3 gears like its on a killing spree. i know the thought of it sounds like fun, but it makes it risky on streets. the point is, it all comes to making sure you have the best parts/swaps to back up the car moving forward and coming to a stop. i say if your going to build a monster, and plan to only drive it sometimes(track) and weekend, go for it. it takes more than you would think to make it all come together. brakes, fuel supply, tuning, cage, $$$ etc. me, i want to enjoy my car as much as i can due to all the time i put into it, still kick ass, and can cruise out of town and back reliably because then, its just another lexus while out of boost. all you need from the q45 axles are really just the inner 6 bolt flanges(4 total) and internals, bearings etc. the shaft itself is not being used as you will be using custom moser axles availible through modernmotorsport with the correct length. the 6bolt will be assy. on both ends of the shaft like the link i posted. you only want junk ones, trust me on this, not new or reman's as you will be tearing it apart anyways. go to junk and take 4 axles out, take apart inner 6 bolts from two and remove outter joint on other two axles, throw all into bag with two cv shafts with 6 bolt flanges on each end and pay for the price of two leaving with as total of 4 6bolt flanges. if anyone ask why you buying busted axles, explain your rear end swap in every little detail and one would roll eyes and try to get you outta there asap. pm me if you need any info as i been collecting info and reading religiously for the past year as im doing the same swap. if you really want a vicious lsd r200 q45 diff, let me know. i have one sitting in my garage with 130k from a 94 q45. i went with a more basic swap so this one is just sitting.

one after another. your cv shafts itself is rated at 900hp. but your tripod housing now becomes the weak spot as its the factory tripod race housing isnt it? im probably wrong but isnt the double offset joint a single piece? that being said, it almost looks like its some kind of cast metal from the pics.

my thoughts. im planning to run the 2jz na-t, r154 but with r200 long nose+z31 turbo cv shafts. i originally intended to run the r200 q45 lsd diff (similar housing as r230) with the 6bolt flange outsides and moser axles with 6bolt mm axle flange adapters. i went the long nose route for these reasons. having to make the mounts or buy the kit for 500 and axles for 600 and flanges for another $$$ was way up in the 1G's easy. one thing about this setup is it's a bit over kill if you do not intend on running over 600hp. keep in mind basic 400hp s30 chassis is retarded fast and will do easy 11's. after all these parts invested, if you search these forums, the weak link now becomes the stub axle shafts. that being said, your going to probably end up coughing another 500 something for the 27 spline billet stubs. now your rear end is bullet proof. with how many hp after how much cash?? i know its good for extra insurance for your rear end but the regular r200 long nose has been proven and has sooo many more gear ratio's to choose from and easy mount in with parts availability from local wrecking yards. i plan to run 500hp(max no more than 600hp freeway) daily but not in every corner on constant launch. im using the r200 longnose with the 3.54 gears and z31 300zxt turbo half shafts plus the mm axle flange adapters, all for around 500.00. you can seriously always add a lsd for 500-700 and still save compare to the r230 setup. i thought for almost 1/2 year and searching before i decided to go with my basic setup. its enough to handle 500hp. if your mainly looking at this setup because its lsd and is the strongest diff you can get for the s30, its not really necessary and there are other options. but if you have the cash, who wouldnt want a bullet proof rear end? i would. lol. anyways, back to your question. parts you will need.... 1.) 4 cv shafts from q45 (91-94? 6 bolt one) at junk yard. because you need the inner 6 bolts to go on the moser axles both ends. 2.) 6 bolt axle flange adapters from modernmotorsports, throw in some moser alxes while your at it. 1000.00 cough cough. 3.) r230 rear diff mount kit from modernmotorsport. 450.00? dont recall beta making one. 4.) this... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/25054-r230-axle-assembly-a-pictoral-review/ 5.) then this... http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2008+March+Proto+Q45+R200+Mounting+Proven+Brian+G/

i have that heavy ass jegs cage in my car. of course it doesnt fit well since not all z's are the same anymore anyways so a bit of cutting here and there will be required. you will also loose your spare tire with the jegs cage since it drops right in there but who needs the spare anyways when your probably going to be running fuel cell/tank? my welds are ugly but it holds. its NHRA legal if you weld it to their specs 6x6 plates to their specs. mine is just for safety purposes like you mention just in case a dumb driver comes along.

lucky bastard. j/k. that is a nice clean basic looking swap with lots of potential. real nice....i dig the sound of borg warner turbos. whistles so nice from a modern inline 6.

how much is for ken? oh wait, thats an actual human person, not barbie dolls. never mind. i paid 300.00 for one wining 3rd gear, and also bought another one for 1000.00 3 years ago.

thats good news because my axle flanges just went out earlier and i didnt even realize the location was in canada. lol. hopefully he gets back to me and we can make paypal payments as mm e-mailed me and says they will inform me when they receive my flanges and then make arrangements for payments. i dont feel comfortable stuffing money order into a box and ship it out of the states for 200 something dollars.

my bro has access to machine shop from time to time. i thought about having him make me a flange using cnc machine cut on steel plate. but i dont have the specs either to cut the weld on flange. however, knowing that i would have to weld this on and has to be dead center and balance so it wont have any vibration issues, i am going to back out and leave to modernmotorsports since they specialize in stuff like this. again, i get reply e-mails from them within a couple days the last time i askes cpouple weeks ago so i dont see any issues and why people have issues contacting them. my stub axle flanges will be going out to them soon so ill keep you posted. if it doesnt come back, i will let you and everyone know. im hoping it does come back ot i will be piss. crossing fingers.

this thing is gonna look bad ass. sick fabrication skills.

i tried swapping bushings big in front and small in back but it moves it even further back. my inner didnt fit because i had 240z arms and the 74 260z matches dead on with the later 280z stuff. mine is 7/74 but datsun mixed a bunch of crap up that year. i also have 280z strut setup on left and 240z on right factory. maybe im thinking too much but the 280z strut tube housing seems to be slight off angle and the 240z points straight up! this is viewed with stub axles pointed at 3/9 o'clock. one of my spindle pin moves when i tap it with a hammer. one is just busted with the nut spinning around on one end. i say screw it. the original bushings are solid and dont see how it will even wear out. ill be skipping that for now and keeping my old ones as they are still musshy and solid.

i have seen so many sbc guys run it that way. im so curious if anyone has broken or rip their floor pans from just mounting it flat like that. i mounted mine flat like yours also when i had my old t56. im doing something different now and was thinking about welding in a 1/8 plate onto the floors then drill through for extra security.

15x8.5 and made by simmons. true 3pc wheels and -19 offset with a 4inch double step lip all the way around. they are the nicest vintage wheels i have ever owned! lol.

resprayed my wheels and put on some new hardware. looks so much better and way cleaner. famous cellphone/wheel picture... the reflection of the allen bolts looks raw on the polish finish. mock up pics mounted on front wheel, should look pretty dope.

i was just installing my urethane kit last weekend and had some issues too. but not like yours though. my front control arm inner bushings had to be grind down to fit inside(74-78 kit for my 74 260z). my torsion rod seems a bit off now also since im using 3/4 strut spacer. the two hole that mounts to the control arm seems to not line up straight with control arm and had to be force fit(bolt). seems like it will work though. spindle pin is another new story.

what chassis did the 1jz came out of? how did the twins perform? kkk turbo's? looks pretty mean...

scottie, that makes me feel a whole lot better. i was referring to the supraforum guys. i knew zgad had a low gear he mentioned about on one of his post!!! i just couldnt remember what it was exactly. but arent you both on auto?