piston

wheel, heres a pic of my ghetto t!!! save 21bucks...my gues is it shouldnt matter. i shall se when i start driving...

so the water pump outlets for the heater core is routed to circulate with the t in the middle or ??? i think it would of been fine with it connected to the lower hose like everyone else has it since the original is connected to the top nipple on the radiator. the height itself of the radiator nipple, is higher then the t itself when you mount the t in the lower hose. meaning it should be safe or shouldnt be no different.

tires size is not an issue to find for me. whats gonna be safe and work is what im looking for. i would love to have 245s but i might get 235s. 235s to me, are the hardest tires to get. fender roll and clearance is not an issue. ill be running zg flare. right now i have 205-55-16 and man they look ugly. heres a pic in my album if anyones interested.

the pcm red connector pin11 is what turns on the fan, i was told this wire connects to the relays ground pin#85, pin#86 is ignition hot and pin#88 is constant hot. then where does pin#30 on the relay go to??? im using a basic 30amp 4 prong relay. has small # 87-86-85 and #30 marking the pins or is this the correct way to wire it... red pcm connector #11 connects to pin#30 on relay pin#85 is regular ground (chasis) pin#86 is ignition hot pin#87 is constant hot i was told pcm red connector pin#11 connects to ground on relay to turn on the relay. the #11 pin on pcm, is that a neg or pos?

i was thinking about running some nitto or or toyo or khumo. depends on the prices. 225 is what i had plan for in the first place. 225 is what ill probably be running. fat tires looks nice, but dont want to push it. maybe if i roll up on some 235s. wheelman, got any rear pics?

i was wondering im running 16x7 but measures 8 inch from lip to lip but thats considered a 7inch is what they say. i want to run the widest tire possible and was wondering whats the widest i can go on it? i was told 245 was the widest. i have clearances either side. searched but mostly came up with clearance threads. 245-45-16 is what i might run. thanks.

i have a 75 also, it never came with a smog pump, and it better be smog exempt too, yeah i live with schawtzeneiger and he stopped it at 75 down. hopefully they dont bs me and tell me i gotta smog it cause i didnt have to smog it when i bought it.

i installed my drive shaft today and noticed it looks a little too short. i measured at 23 1/2 inches and now i installed the shaft and it looks like it has just about an inch of play. when i bolt it up, it has an inch in gap from end of tail shaft to the start of shaft yolk. is that too much or am i still good. i havent drove the vehicle yet but will be soon, its just another paranoid question... also, about angles, i notice if my tranny shaft is about an 1 1/2 inch or so higher than the diff face. do you guys think im gonna have vibe issues? i can always lower it though but just a head start question, if i lower it to be parallel, that mean my shifter will be sitting lower than other t56 ive ever seen. i have a ron tyler mount and still have stock bottom mount. these are older pics of just the tranny before mount but in same location. ill post new pics asap when i get the digi cam back.

ok guys, i feel pretty stupid but i guess im only human, still doesnt explain it but all of them work now except for #3 piston. i dont know how the hell this is, but i test it with the 9v batery, yes all the injectors work. i turn the key to on until the fuel gauge was around 40psi, test each injector and psi goes down meaning they work. after a while of testing, my gas went out and i decited to poor in some good old 91 octane. only 2 gallons. and it fired right up with thunder....all works except for #3 piston. how in the hell is that? if its low in gas, why would only 4-6-and 8 work, add 2 more gallons, 4 more works! ok, now im thinking, maybe if i add one more, # 3 will work? how dumb does that sound! hahahaha...who knows, it might just work. ill fill the damn thing all the way to the top of the tank. im use to 4 cly engines and would never thought that a couple of starts would hogg up that much gas in a 5.7ltr..but yeah, im more happy now and should be driving it soon after i get my jtr radiator mounts. thaks to all who has replied...hopefully you find your problem kenai, or may you might need to add some gas! good luck!!!

wow, kenai, i thought i was the only one! i know its probably not an injector since it worked the last time i pulled the motor. ill have to redo the wiring harness and put new wires for ground im sure. i remember when in had the harness appart, ther was rubbed areas on couple areas of the ground wire. same to the red, but i fixed the red ign hot already for the fuel injectors. ill have to check the ground side of the injector. i rather have the problem being the injector since i got another set of injectors on my donor lt1. my wiring is wired to the fuse box under the passenger dash and is a PITA to take it off..sliped through from the heater hose hole on the firewall. i dont think its the opti, but i could be wrong. one of the vacumm wasnt hooked up on the opti, but i hoked it up now and it still doesnt work. could the opti went bad because of this? if so, how are the other ones working? now that you mentioned earlier in the post, ill be checking my ground connections. i bet its the ground. i only have one ground to the engine and its the batery cable that goes to the starter/block...

ill try the 9volt batery deal thing. believe it or not, but it runs on 3 cylnders...i can rev it a little but i dont want to push it. it sounds like its a carb motor at the moment and it sounds crappy. so what your saying is, the ground wire on the injector clip is what fires the injectors correct? i think i might know whats wrong but ill check over and over. one of my ground the the batery did fell off but if thats the problem, they all would of failed since they all have the same ground if i recall. but i could be wrong. thanks for the replies and 80lt1, do you have a bigger pic of that? i can barely read the typing on that image...

i know i post this before, but i cant seem to figure out what the heck is going on with my lt1. it worked before after i pulled out the motor and now after putting it all back in, some of the injectors are not firing again. 1-3-5-7 and 2 injectors are not firing! what causes the injectors to fire anyways? the distributor or ??? it worked before i pulled the engine out, all the connectors have power comming to them, just tested. all the exhaust runners are cool except for 4-6 and 8 are hot, meaning they are firing. a while back i had the same problem if some of you guys remember, but it was a wiring issue. rewired it and it worked then. whats the chances of all my injector going bad at the same time? i know the pink wire on the injector clip goes to ignition hot, where does the other wire lead to. i would hate to do my harness again but i dont think thats the problem. all the fuses are good. everything seems to be on, just this friggin injector not firing is delaying me from driving the car for the first time. let me know what you guys think!

well, since its a 2 year project, you have all the time you need to search and find info you need. ive always been a z fan but barely got my z last year. learned so much on this forum. 1 year past and i have a lt1 t56 swap with wiring and all kinds of little mods done to it on my own. it just takes time to search and find info and stuff you need! 2 year i think, is enough time to learn how to build a healthy street ass kicking z car!

just get a fbody lt1 and call it a day. the caprice lt1 is heavier but cheaper in prices and way lower in hp. you might be better off getting the caprice lt1 and putting on some alloy head later. but it all depends on your plans. i just grabed a caprice lt1 and threw in a lt4 hot cam kit and called it a corvette lt4! hahaha...

looks pretty nice...the thing about spraying it with the can is eventually it will start to chip real quick.. i did one can of black and 2 cans of clear on my bumper, the coat was so thick, it still chipped when little rocks or hard bugs fly through!

in that case, i have one too. 75 280z no rust!!! 94 caprice lt1 no emissions ofcorse no a/c no p./s lt4 hot cam, 1.6 rr, lt4 springs block hugger headers pcm programed by pcm america t56 6sp tilton 7/8 master cylinder cold air intake r200 3.90 gears ron tyler diff mount walbro 255lph fuel pump hoping 330hp and high 11s on drags..car should only weigh no more than 2500lbs since i striped out everything not necessary, i mean everything! ....built so i can drive still drive it daily and be reliable. still work in progress...

they wont work for the 510 or for 240sx crowed. the rims looks like some kinda of cheapo eagle rims. im kinda lost here though, you said made by rota and then you ask you need help to id the rims? if you are asking for discription, lets just say, chrome star rims made by rota. i cant think of a datsun that came with 4x100...anyone???

sounds sweet...pics please and vids...

is that the tranny mount for a t56? how much are they asking for just the mount? does it line right up or will it still require a bunch of driveline angle measurements?

dude, looks like you did a burn out in your garage...

i bruzed my knuckle, squished my thumb, bleed...almost fainted and all that other bs before i got mine off. i took off the sway bar, mount and rotated the drive shaft to get it to move around to have access to the nut. if i recall, i got access to it from the driver side of the vehicle...

i have the same problem with mine also, but i can not figure it out, i ended up chopping out a piece of my cross member to make it work with the ac delete pulley. unfortanatly, im going to have to pull it again so ill be looking into that also. its a PITA to put mine in. put all kinds of dents on my fresh engine bay coating...good luck...

yeah i kept the stock location...the pcm wasprogramed by pcmamerica. hes a cool guy and did a good job for 150.00 i think it was..i fired it up already ad it sounds sick..the t56 went bad though i believe...

when i bought the rims, they have valve stems built on both sides of the lips. im not sure if you guys are familiar but the rims are based on the epsilons. lips are interchangable with valve stems built on both inner and outter lips. i didnt even have to remove the tire. just inflated the tires and put the mesh back on from the other side.

i actually polished the inside lip to make it the way it looks. it was a dead alloy color and after hours of polishing, the polished started to show. it still isnt shiny enough, but itll work for now. still blining!