Canadianz

I believe earlier Z's require a shorter driveshaft due to the forward placement of the differential, however I cant remember whether thats just for the 71's or what. Either way, I have a spare driveshaft from a 71 with the 4 speed, so I can measure that later if you like. Cheers, Rob

We run Case international Hytran in the gearboxes and open r200s in both our Zs. Works great, is pretty cheap, and you know it protects well because its originally meant for tractor gearboxes and hydraulics! (read lots and lots of abuse) Chris and Rob

My brother runs the rewinds on his car, we are running a 205/55 I think on there. It only rubs in the back, we did roll the fenders a bit though. Also make sure your suspension is in good shape, if its getting droopy you'll be scuffing alot more.

Haha thats what I was thinking, kinda sounded like BS... Ill keep an eye on it though.

Hey guys, wondered if anyone knew anything about this guy or what he is building ? Apparently he has a manufacturing facility ? Sounds like a scam to me ...http://www.hp2g.com/homeofhp2g.html Here is the site. On the site it says the engine he is building is good for 400hp or so and can get 100mpg.

If you need any turbo parts I have an entire 300zx engine of parts as well as alot of 280 stuff too ...

Yeah +1 on the cool rims... There not Rewinds, as they only come in one offset. I don't think there Rota's either. I have a suspicion they may be wantanabes... .if so your laughing ...

Sorry bout the ECU .... Glad though that you got your fuel issue sorted out ! Keep throwing time at it and it will be done soon!

Well at least you have something fairly easy to rule out now. Since the problem has steadily gotten worse, that could relate to junk from the tank plugging up the lines... How recently have you checked the fuel filters? what kind of a pump are you running? have you checked the float bowls in the carbs to see if there is any sediment in there? and lastly, have you checked the overall condition of the carbs, ie. checking for enough oil in the dashpots etc. When you're sure that the fuel system is running properly, then you can narrow things down a bit. hope that helps. Rob

So if Im reading this correctly you have pressure before the fuel rail... the side nearest to the fire wall but nothing is flowing past that ? Make sure the lines are hooked in correctly. The return line is at the front of the block and it comes off the fuel pressure regulator, which looks like a little bumpy fitting with a vacuum lime off it. The fuel rail feed is the open end at the fire wall side. If your trying to run fuel backwards through the FPR that might cause it. Other wise try putting a pressure gauge at the end of your feed and see what kinda of pressure the line is at... Keep working forwards until you find the blockage. As mentioned in the other post you might have the pump hooked up incorrectly. It should have a positve, negative and a control wire to the ecu. If you didn't hook up that one the fuel pump might not run right. Good luck ! Chris

You can usually find the condensor either on the side of the distributor or attached to the ballast resistor, its easy to check and rule out of the equation at least. Another thing I just thought of is when you have this issue, check with a multimeter to see if youre losing voltage on certain wires or if there's any way to track down what exactly is happening. This way you can get an idea of whether to look at the wires before the ignition module or whether its something after it.

It shouldn't matter if you plumb it into both or just one. The re-circ valves/ blow off valves vent back into the intake AFTER the MAF on RB's so it doesn't matter really. I have mine on my RB25 venting to atmosphere and it does stumble the odd time when bov vents on the stock ecu. If you think about it there is no need for an bov Y pipe becasue just after the turbo's the compressed air on the RB26's joins again in the turbo Y pipe. Remeber that bov air is metered already so it doesn't need to go back through the MAF ... just back into the intake tract. Hope that helps Chris

Theres two things here that came to my mind reading this: first, figure out what that blue and red wire is that is running to the ignition box, because as I remember usually your ignition wires in the early s30s are black with a white stripe. Secondly, I had a problem like this with a carbed 280 (without the problem with the ignition switch) where the car would randomly cut in and out, stumble and lose spark entirely... then run fine an hour or so later. What it turned out to be was a brand new condenser that had gone bad, so thats something to think about. Hope that helps Rob

I got a turbo XS one of ebay ... it was missing the needle... tried to blow up my car . . 15lbs on a stock RB25 isn't a good idea . So if you get one just give it a quick check like any cheap-o part and make sure it is assembled correctly. I am now using a Turbo smart manual controller and it is working great!

Hmm I think I might be able to surprise some people here ... 1971 240z-shell 1978 280z-Mustache Bar and rear disk brakes 1984 300zx Diff + Half shafts (in progress) + scrap metal for door repair 1992 S13 Injectors R33 engine set Now the non nissan amusement (year) ?Chevy hod rod rad 1992 Ford Escort fuel roll over switch 1984 New Holland Manure Spreader "seasons metal" frame rail repairs 1990 Toyota Supra motor mounts 1990 Toyota 4x4 brakes GM Joints in driveshaft Case International "hi tran" heavy equipment differential fluid BBK Mustang Fuel Pump

Hi guys, Need a hand, I wrecked one of my urethane bushings during install and need to order another, it is from the lower rear control arm and and is the outer bushing. Ive looked at energy and prothane's website with no luck. Does anyone know if I can buy just the one bushing and if so what the # is ? Here is a crappy pic for the bushings I need ... Thanks very much Chris

Hey Janka, I would say to get the best insulation you can, there's nothing more annoying than having to wait for the shop to heat up, or have it cool down really fast. Do you live in a suburb ? The ventilation is also something smart to do now, it sucks trying to weld or use solvents in a garage with no air circulation. If you get the digital balasts for your florescent lights they work just fine in the cold. Thats what we are using in our shop, in Brantford, they are also way cheaper on electricty than the old style balasts. Lets see some pics when its done ! PS theres a guy on Ontario Z car selling 300zx half shafts I saw the other day. Cheers Chris

Hey Guys, wow lots of Ontario fellas on here! Im from near brantford are any of you in the Ontario Z Car Club ? Cheers Chris

Well these engines are pretty cheap, I mean we're looking for about 250 bucks... If I were you I would try to find a local one, and any small parts you need we would be happy to ship out to you. haha thanks man, you and me both! Unfortunately that trifle seems to only appear around christmas... Rob

Hey, if youre looking for a VG30et we have one for sale out of an 84 ae parts car. Ran well and laid rubber great, it was pulled out of the chassis around christmas and has been sitting in our shop since. Im not sure where youre located, but if youre in Ontario then PM me, we also have the crossmember and pretty well all the accessories for the turbo swap, such as ecu etc. Rob

Gollum I think you missed my point, if you can get a water pump for an old L-series then there is just as likely a good chance you can get a usdm alternative part for the JDM SR20det. Obvious differences will be in the ECU, that is a given, however most of the major parts and sensors will have an equivalent. I am trying to think of parts that there wouldn't be a replacement for, which would have to be ordered from JDM land and to be honest I can't think of any that would go and not result in a catostphic break down, eg requiring a rebuild. Alot of the major parts do swap from Sr's hence the conversions you can find in the Sentra crowd with the turbo Sr's. I guess if for some reason you blew the whole engine up, yeah your in trouble, at the same time your probalby not at joes towing asking to find a set of SR20 pistions to "get you home". Having rebuilt both an L-series and an RB using local shops, I found that alot of my L-series stuff was ordered in and not in stock on the shelf. It came in quicker than the RB stuff and cheaper but it was still a wait. I live in Canada so Im not sure if that makes the difference at all that your talking about. Any way as I say get whatever engine you want, if your plan is to drive it a ton pick something reliable, the CA18 seems like a smart choice. Rebuild it and don't get to fancy. The point of this thread was to give the fella ideas and not argue about the difficulty of getting parts for a JDM engine. That being said, Im done best of luck Grim ! Start throwing hours at that car of yours, we want some pics !

I agree with the points that stock engines are often more reliable than modified highly tuned engines. Also remeber that the SR20 in non turbo trim was built and sold in North America. I would disagree with the idea that it is hard to get parts for engines which were "never produced" in North America. I have an RB25det and have bought almost all of the parts for it locally from my nissan dealership. This includes water pumps oil pumps, belts etc. Other smaller parts can be had from Napa or a similar store, however you won't find it under "SR20DET from JDM land" in their computer. As a previous poster noted the majority of the parts on Nissan engines are interchangeable, so cross referencing and research is required. Go look on some 240sx/Silvia sites and you'll see what I mean. Remeber again your driving a car which is almost 40 years old, do you think you could walk into Napa and get a waterpump for a 71 datsun off the shelf in every location? Probably not. With that being said, if you go with a JDM engine and your not afraid of cross referencing go ahead, the parts are there, they may be more expensive and require more thought than buying for somthing like a 350 chev, as far as getting parts, even though they are there. As far as something reliable and good on gas, go out and buy yourself an RB25det, with the tall gearing its great on gas and it goes like hell. If you don't mess with it too much its also a very tough engine. The 25's are getting cheaper too. I personally would avoid the rotaries in a DD, I know the renisis has problems with flooding and seal wear in certain cases. While their are fixes just go and get something that works stock. Besides you don't need too much power to have fun in a Datsun, most people have never driven or ridden in a 200whp Datsun let alone a 400 hp monster. 200whp is definatly enough to have fun and get you around. Good luck on your engine choice, Chris

Maybe I'm thinking of another car then, I remember seeing one like yours in at whiteheads but it was a couple years ago and had just had the engine cradle installed at that time. We almost went with the sr20 for our 240 but settled on the rb25 instead, so Im curious to see what your car turns out like! Neither of our cars are on the road yet, both are up on jackstands but should be ready within a couple weeks. Like you, it will probably be around the start of May. Im glad I hadn't put them on the road yet seeing as we're still getting snow! -Rob

This isnt really relevant to your topic, but how long have you been working on the swap? I remember checking out an orange 240 at whiteheads that they were dropping an SR into.. must have been 2 years ago or so. Was that yours? Either way, it might take some work to tune the suspension the way you like it, but you won't have to worry about your car not being fun to drive!

I think the tach adopters are about $50, that is what Im running on mine... the 50$ is worth the annoyance of getting it working. I just used the msd one. good luck Chris