Canadianz

Hi Mike, Yeah I definatly agree with you the speed you can get out of a RB + R200 is pretty amusing. If the car is going to be a DD then I wouldn't go with the 4.11's or so. Im running whatever the stock R-180 I think its stupid high. I can do probably over 170 km/h in 3rd gear. (GPS calibrated Autometer Speedo) While it definatly hurts performance, the car is a dream to drive on the highway as it is pulling about 2200 RPM at 120km/h or about 70-75 mph. I also get rediculus fuel economy too because the revs are so low. Still though I can drop down to 3rd and mat it and it goes like hell. If it is a drag or track car definatly look for something a bit lower though, Fenton_fury who posts on here is running 4.11's I belive and really likes them. I'm on the look out for a slightly lower set as I do want a bit more acceleration, however the car is still really quick and fun to drive even though it is geared a bit tall. So I suppose it all goes for what the car is used for. Thats my experiences for an RB25det with the RB25 Tranny.. Chris Crombie

Man thats too bad, What company was it ? We should sticky it as a buyer-beware sort of deal. The tuning industry like any industry seems to have its fair share of crooks.

Sounds like your off to an awesome start. I found the only reason you have to chop the transmission tunnel, in my case early 240z, was to move the ears back a bit. Other than that it fit right in. Also many hot rod radiators will fit in the Z. I believe it is a chev style, with the input and out on the right hand side. As well I wouldn't worry about VSS, it just is used for the speed cut and a digital speedo, if your using one. If you haven't bought your cable setup for your speedo I would reccomend going digital. The autometer ones can be calibrated for any rearend/gearing combo's so it is really nice if you switch. Good luck ! Chris

Here's my rad setup, its a double pass aluminum rad, outlets both on the right hand size. It was made by a custom shop in Tennessee I think, Ill have to check. Any how alot of Chevy hot-rod rads fit you just need to get busy with a tape measure. I think this cost me 250 or so US. Fits perfect, I use one small flexilite fan on it and it has never even gotten close to overheating, even in stop and go traffic.

Janka, your car looks great ! I know the feeling I live about 20 minutes away in Brantford. Great looking car.

I'm with Evan, On my RB25det swap I used an Autometer speedo so the vehicle speed sensor jsut feeds into that. Works great and Ive hit over 200km/h no problem.

Hey if you would like more help, please give more information about the engine, electronic or carbed system you have on your car. Also include a list of mods and some background to avoid confusion. The more information we have the better answer we can try to give. Chris

Drifting even made it all the way to Sweden! And then the army heard about it...

Oh no Jerry !! Ive done the same thing in my old ford escort. Thats rough ! Cambridge definitely got more snow than us in Brantford.

Hey Mike, our heater core hooked up just fine. Maybe you have a different unit ? I have a series two Rb in a first gen 240z. Yeah don't worry about the carbon canister.

True.. It could have been our 1954 dodge m37, there wouldnt have been any datsun left.. that being said, youre right Jerry, at least the damage was limited to just the door and not the body on either side! So, I think we will just salvage the glass and interior panels etc. and transfer them to a new door, so if anyone near Ontario has one from a 240, we need one, and sister/ sister's insurance is footing the bill! The door definitely did have some rust underneath, but before this it looked good so we weren't going to do anything about it.. If we play our cards right though, we should be able to get a paintjob out of this, as well as a new door. Oh well, the old door never shut right anyway! [edit] ahaha Chris, synchronized posting!

Thanks for the input guys, you cheered me up, it is a series one car and as Jerry says the snow is flying today so we now have all winter to fix it. The one bright piece of news is that my sister does happen to have a very comprehensive liability policy on her insurance which may cover the cost of the door + a new paint job, so this incident might havea silver lining. That is kinda weird to hear about the throttle sticking on the Argo's. I hope its not the case with this one, its a 2008 brand new. Who knows though. Any how I guess I better start the search ! Thanks ! Chris and Rob Crombie

Turbo Flange Blueprints Just found some plans for different turbo flanges etc might be useful to somebody. T3 Exhaust Flange T3 Flange T4 Flange T25 5 Bolt Exhaust Flange Hope this is useful! If you have more add them in ! All measurements are in mm.

So my sister decided to park our new Argo 8x8 into the side of my car. I got a phone call saying that she was really sorry and put a "small ding" in the door. Whatever no big deal, I have all winter to fix it as I live in Canada. Any how when I saw it, well the damage was a little more than a ding. The door is punctured by winch and the bush bar has warped the entire panel. Also I I think it may have broken some of the spot welds that hold the skin onto the door. My brother and I contemplated bonding a fiberglass skin to the door or would it be better off just buying a new used door ? Here are some pics of the mayhem. . . . Any how Im in the door market and I guess this gives me an excuse to paint the car too if the door doesn't match.

Hey, yeah we have the car running great now, it was in the end the MAF was incorrectly wired. Also we shot the car with a timing light and it was a bit retarded so we advanced it and it helped a ton too. If I were you check first that your MAF's are clean and wired correctly. Next check for any boost leaks and make sure your vacuum lines are set up correctly. We had a POS china blow off valve that was leaking too and caused some trouble. Next make sure your FPR isn't set too high and that it has the correct vacuume reference too. Finally check your O2 sensor. A couple guys on this board mentioned to me that the MAFs are used when on boost. So if your AFR is okay under boost then that means they are functioning ok. The other thing is make sure that your idle air control is wired correctly and has the correct hose/ vacuume line routing. Good luck ! You'll track it down its just a matter of time Chris

I have an RB25det, and I removed the idle air controller and put a block off plate where it used to be. I am even using the stock ecu. Im not sure about the air chamber you are talking about, is it some sort of a balancer on the RB26 due to the ITB set up or what ? I am in the same boat as Jerry, my car runs great with no idle air controller even with a 90mm TB. My idle is slightly high (around 950) or so . . Any how I think you should be able to remove it, if you have all the stock hardware though it can't hut to leave it on either.

The RB's ecu is pretty tolerant im not running an evap can, idle air or abunch of extra crap on mine and she runs great other than the odd stumble now and again. What sort of boost are you going to run ? Im pushing 10psi right now and although still rich don't intend on running any more until I get and ecu and injectors.

The boost solenoid is used I believe in first gear to limit boost, if you disconnect it you get full boost in all gears. Next for boost control I ran a line from the turbo outlet to the wastegate. My car boosts just fine and runs great without all the extra snakey stuff Nissan installed on there. So basically your routing should be: Turbo outlet(or whatever place you want to use a vacume reference) Next manual boost controller Then waste gate Be very carful about manual boostcontrollers, I used a turbo XS on which was manufactured without the internal regulating needle, so the waste gate never opened ! !! Talk about scary, it got chucked in the trash. Here is the turbosmart one I am using and a schemeatic that worked for me Boost Controller Waste Gate hope that helps !

Before you try forcing it, fill take the spark plugs out and fill the bores with a good amount of wd-40 or a similar agent. Let it sit for a day or so then try turning it over. It will wreck whatever oil is in the crank case though so once it is free you should probably change it. Do you have any pics of the car ? Good Luck Chris

After reading this entire thread one thing I would like to point out is that the RB26 does have a bit of an edge in the aftermarket as far as manifolds, cams etc. Based on personal experience building the RB series engines is getting cheaper than it used to be, however it still hurts if you look at the price on a set of tomei cams for the RB25 at around 1k compared to the prices Ive seen for cams on other engines. As far as the engine physically, both engines run ceramic turbines which don't like too much boost over 13psi or so, that being said I have seen an RB26 that with ceramic turbos that lasted at 22 psi before the owner blew all the ring lands off as he was running only a boost controller. The knock against the RB26 for me was that to upgrade the turbines and get them balanced I would pay about the same as a brand new turbo for the RB25. The head design of the RB25 vs RB26 came up also and the 26 does have a better flowing head, with a stronger valve train. These engines like to rev and make most power up top so it is nice to know that you can wring out a 26 a bit longer before you have to shift. Both engines are a ton of fun, if your looking for giant numbers it might be smarter to buy an engine that is produced in North America, that way you don't spend quite as much on parts at least. It is also nice to be able to hit up the parts store without spending a couple minutes cross referencing all your part #'s before you start. Both swaps are awesome and both will cost a fair bit to reach 500 horsepower if you want it to last. Ask any of the guys on here running 400 horsepower and up how much they have spent on their engine bay. Its not cheap by any means.

Racinjitter, Our RB does the exact same thing, Im not sure either what causes it. What all have you done to you RB ? I was reading on skylinesaustralia that if you max out the AFM the computer drops the timing and fuel. Im running just the stock ECU and injectors at 10psi and its really rich by my wideband but when it drops like you say it does go lean so im wondering if it is the AFM issue. On a side note if I get into it a little slower it never seems to happen its just if I floor it. Im running the series 2 RB25 and it doesn't have an external ignitor. Any how this is a very interesting thread I hope we figure it out

So far we haven't noticed any issues regarding the maf not working properly. Air/Fuel ratios are good and the car pulls great all the way to 6k, and probably the only issue we have noticed is that it will bog after a hard full boost (only 7psi) pull in second or third, but we attributed that to the bov venting to atmosphere. We do have plans for moving the air filter up in front of the rad, so we'll post if we notice any obvious changes in how it runs. Chris and Rob

What engine and mods are you running ? if you give us some more info it will be easier to figure out whats up. My Rb25det runs at around 150f return temp max if im in traffic. Thats through a big V-8 rad with a small electric fan.

Hey guys ! The show was a blast, it was good meeting a couple of the Hybrid Z guys at the meet. My bro and I had the Red 240z with the RB25 out and he has a black 280z with triple 45s out too. Man for a smaller scene southern Ontario has some pretty crazy Z's. I got extremely lucky in the draw and won basically an AMS slotted brake kit with the ceramic pads. Once I have a price and pics they will be up for sale as I need $$ for an EMS. Any way awesome meeting so many new people and seeing some really unique builds !

If you want the old stuff out fast, get about 15 lbs of dry ice and cover your old sound deadner in it. Let it sit for a bit and it will freeze and become extremely brittle and you can smash it with a rubber mallet and it will all shatter and come right out. Oh its also a good idea to run a fan if you have your head stuck in the car as dry ice is C02 which can cause you to pass out and asphyxiate. So than make you have good air flow and you'll be fine this is the easiest way to get that old crap out.