Canadianz

Nice car ! Nice engine! Which Nistune ecu are you running ? I didn't know they had a RB25 application or are you running a z32 ? Cheers Chris

I'm interested to hear how the link ecu works out for you, Im looking at o one as well. I have heard that the rule with RB injectors is that basically a cc per hp... so theoretically 550cc injectors should be able to power about 550 horse power. I think alot of the fellas around here until they get into the really big numbers are just running the walbro 255 pumps. From the experinces of people on the board it seems that around 500 hp things start breaking on the stock engines. Check out James Thagards build for more info on that ... oh yeah and you might want to look into an alkymeth kit, there good for suppressing dedonation.

I had the stock unit lightened and balanced, seems to work great. I also got the stock pressure plate strengthened 50% over and the clutch disk re done in in a better friction material too. I guess in hind sight I could have gone the aftermarket route but Ive never had it slip and the engine feels nice and free when revving. Just another thought if there is a place near you that can do that type of work. It suited my build really well and the clutch pedal is still very nice too. Chris

Check your Idle air valve, if its anything like those on the RB's it can cause a very similar problem, so software wise it might be 100% and is learning correctly but could be malfunctioning. My RB without an idle air unit acts exactly like what you are describing. If it comes off easily it might be an easy check. Also like the other fellow mentioned check your TB.. try to put a stronger return spring on yours, it might not be closing all the way or might be sticking part of the time. You've probably thought of this stuff already though its worth a shot before you swap the whole TB. Chris

Very nice ! That is a nice looking car can't wait to see it finished. Good job on the video too its really nice to see a kinda start to finish of a dyno run, don't often get to see the whole thing. Can't wait to see the finished machine ! ! Great numbers ! Chris

I agree with Evan, The only ones you can do with out are the throttle body ones, and to your heater core. You could tidy them up though using different hoses not that it matters as you won't see the hoses anyway once the intake is on. Chris

Hello, Couple things I would check, first give your Mass Air Flow Sensors a check, make sure they are clean and wired correctly. Also check for vacuum leaks, especially after the MAF. If the engine pulls un-metered air that has not passed the MAF sensors all sorts of odd things happen. Another thing to check is that the vacume routing to your Idle air is set up correctly, its often pretty crazy under there and easy to get a hose mixed up. Another thing to check would be plugs and then maybe your O2 sensor. So check that the MAF sensors are working right, then for vacuume leaks, Blow off valves are somtimes are a source. Then check the routing on the idle air hoses, check the plugs and then check your O2 sensor. Good luck ! Chris Crombie

You got it, we cut it off, then it was re-welded back on with a bit less angle the hot side of the turbo was super close to the valve covers... This was how close it was ... any how got it fixed up nicely ...

Its actually a modified ss-auto chrome header. The fit was pretty crappy I had to re drill some holes for the bolts and reposition the top flange. Other than that bit of fiddle work I'd say its a great header, no boost creep, no cracks, good welds too (checked out by a professional welder / instructor). I used a stock Nissan exhaust gasket and it seals great. I also heat wrapped and silicone sprayed the entire thing. So if you don't mind doing a bit of fiddle work its a great buy.

Thats a $100 ss autochrome top mount. A real gem. lol In all seriousness it performs just great. We modified it to get the fitment just the way we wanted it, and then slapped some heat wrap on there and haven't had an issue so far. Rob

Here is my RB, it was a combination effort of my brother and I, and our first build . . . Its a stock long block with a T3/T4, intake and some other bolt ons. I'm running 10psi on the stock ecu, with a wide band and its still nice and rich. I plan on running a bit more this summer and saving up for an ecu and injectors. Here is the car which looks pretty stock outside . . .. Oh and here is the shell we started with ....

I'd personally say get a RB25det, mine is great on gas when I'm not boosting, I have really tall gearing so I think its running about 2200rpms at 65 miles an hour. Well the gearing isn't ideal for drag racing it is great on the highway and still plenty fast. The C18 would be cool though. If I were you I would budget first find out absolutely how much you have to play with then, choose the best from there. It sucks paying a couple hundred for a water pump and close to a grand for cams on an RB when you see what the chev boys are getting alot more hp per $. I wouldn't run much more than 20 psi on pump gas at all, other wise stuff will break and dedonate . To do that you would need at least 600$ worth of injectors, an aftermarket ecu (200-2000) a big intercooler (200$) and a turbo (1000$) not to mention a fuel pump and tank set up to provide it. Once this is all in place you need to get the whole system tuned so either free if you know what your doing or somplace with a dyno. That is all assuming that the internals will hold up to that 20 psi. I think your on the right track though, keep looking at options and budgeting. There are a ton of cool engines that people have yet to capitalize on especially in the Z. Chris

Yeah the silver in my opinion looks nice, the gauges fit great in the stock holes. Also you pretty much have to remove the dash, there is so much wiring under there there is no comfortable way to do it otherwise. depending on what is installed under there and how much you find needs replacing you may take longer than 20mins lol good time though! Also with aftermarket gauges you need to design some extra lights for turn signals and hazard flashers, if you want those in the dash too. No biggie but something else to consider. to mount the actual gauges my brother used perforated strap which was rubber coated and it made fore a nice flexible fit which doesn't rattle. its amazing how much crap and wireing is stuffed up there ...

Hey well for my RB swap I did a set of Autometer Pro Comp gauges, I really like them. They are silver faced so there not too ricey. The other nice thing about them is that with the Speedo, you can calibrate it easily so if you switch diffs or tire sizes there isn't a big hassle of trying to acount for the difference. I also agree that there isn't too many places to put the gauges, right now I have my wideband in the drivers vent and working on a fiberclass A-piller mount for it and fuel pressure. Here is some pics of my dash, not the best but you'll get the idea.

No idea's what so ever ? Any input would help, Thanks Chris and Rob Crombie

I have two out of a 71 If you dont mind shipping from canada, then you can have them. Rob

Forgot the photos ! Here they are. . . The engine may be headed for the Black Car, a 280z or our 54 Dodge Power Wagon. Any info you guys can give would be appreciated.

Hey guys, We're looking at picking up a dodge 360 possibly to put in an old 54 powerwagon. The thing is the guy wants to throw it in as part of a trade along with some cash for a 1999 dodge 2500 diesel and we're curious what your opinions on this engine is. Is it a good setup? whats it worth roughly? I know it might be a bit hard to put a value on this but my brother and I are just trying to get a ballpark figure. Heres what we know about it: Mopar 360 Sat for 6 years but stored properly machined and polished crankshaft hypereutectic semipro teflon coated pistons Press fitted piston wristpins Titanium valves Tricoil valve springs High lift valves Solid lifters and push rods Double roller crane cam #69-150, new timing chain Chrome Solid roller rockers high flow oil pump ported intake J-type heads Needs: valve covers, oil pan, intake and carb, front cover, cam positioning plate, gasket kit, head bolts, head dowels The engine is also set up to run an auto tranny. So far that's all I know about this engine, and I know its fairly vague as to the extent of the build and the brands of parts etc. but this is all we've been given so any thoughts or rough values are appreciated. Thanks guys! Chris and Rob

Hey Mike, Might have some luck on the the Z31 forums, just a thought. Good luck Chris Crombie

Looks like you got a great deal! If there are any parts you need, my brother and I are parting out an 84 ae, so if you need anything we probably can help you. Good luck fixing it up! Cheers Rob

Radio Shack has them sometimes super cheap on sale, just make sure you get the right size for the application. They fit right up or at least the ones we used on our build do. Good luck !

I'm with Mike, I'm pretty sure the one if for a gauge and the other is for the ecu/ fan relay.

Hi guys, Just wondering if anyone has any experience with water or meth kits on various RB engines. I know BigPhil was using one on his L28 for a bit, just wondering is anyone uses it on the RB's. As well knowing that alcohol is corrosive, does it pose a threat to the components downsteam if say one was spraying just after the TB ? I was thinking of using it more as insurance if I up the boost a bit. Thanks Chris

It's too bad I don't live in Cali! ! I have two 3.7's sitting on my shelf right now and Im looking for a 4.11 . Oh well such is life, what is your motor setup it sounds pretty crazy. Chris

I posted a link on here to a how-to swap on this very problem. The post which explains how to do the greddy swap was on skylinesaustralia however have a look through the site here and it should be around. Chris