Canadianz

Hey guys, I had to mount the BOV as Evan said before the intercooler due to space reasons, would there be benefits to mounting it elsewhere? The BOV is a Chinese copy, so we'll see if it holds up. As for your question Jerry, the throttle body is a Ebay piece, in my opinion its really good quality, it seals nicely and has good bearings and return on the spring. Time will tell as how it holds up, as this is the first car my bro and I have built. Its getting so exciting to actually see it all come together. This summer after it is broken in Rob and I are shooting for a standalone and some big injectors 550's or 600's so it will remain drivable and idle decently. Thanks for all the comments, Rob and I are just about finished tackling the wiring so look forward to an update this weekend with the dash in, if all the school work doesn't bog us down ! On a side note what kind of catch cans do you guys run ? Are the closed loop systems better or is it okay to run one that has a little filter on it ? What is the proper routing for the hoses ? Thanks for taking a look! Cheers Rob & Chris Crombie

Synthtk, your car is gorgeous !!!!!! that is all

Quick update, more pics . . . the engine is now finished mechanically, the intercooler is all plumbed up and set. Rad's in and almost all the lines are good to go. Its getting exciting now ! ! A close up of our throttle body and custom adapter my buddy whipped up A shot of the manifold and our oil drains, they are 3/4 or something stupid big like that I can't remember. Nothing special but a veiw with the rad etc in . . .

Hey James, I have a set of them for a RB25det, the quality isn't bad some of the bolt holes were out though and I did need to modify them a bit to get em to fit right. I think for the price you can't go wrong, I mean if you can buy 3 or 4 sets for the same price of a set of "good" headers" and you don't cry if you have to hack them up or modify them to fit. I say go for it. Cheers Chris

Small Update, The Header and downpipe are now wrapped in header wrap and sprayed with silicone. The turbo is installed and the oil and water lines are hooked up. The intake manifold is now on and the adapter installed. Things are finally falling into place. Also the IAC plumbing and all the coolant lines are done. This weekend we are going to recheck the harness, hook it up and drop in the Rad. Hopefully if all goes well there is a chance we can fire it up this weekend !! Heat Wrap and Lines Intake and Throttle body adapter flange . . . More to come this weekend . . .

Yeah the thing is really weird is a street across from me in Hamilton. Across from the University. The whole bottom was fiberglass and contoured. I had no idea if it was legit or a toy or somthing ..

Anyone know what the heck this is ?

From what I have heard, the problem as stated is the ceramic blades blowing up around 13 psi. The stock turbo is a fairly good piece and many people on skylines Australia have switched out the ceramic blades for steel ones. While this is cheaper than a new turbo you still have to ship the unit out to a turbo shop to get it balanced. The good thing is however that the new turbo still spools just as fast as the old unit, and handles more boost. As a question, the guys who were running 10-13 psi, where the engines bone stock or did they have rising rate after market fuel regs or anything ? My engine is pretty close to firing up and I was wondering what the injectors and the stock fueling /electronics can handle. Anybody have any experience ? Also when breaking in a new engine what kind of boost should be run ? Little to none or does it matter ?

Well Rob and I have made some progress, just a bit of plumbing and the wiring to finish up now ! Heres our latest pics . . . and another of the turbo side . . . . Keep in mind ... this is what we started with last February . . . Note the hole where the battery tray goes and the right front frame rail . . . Stay tuned more to come !

While I don't really "get" the idea of carbing an RB engine, its original and worth a try. However if your not stuck on using an RB why don't you use one of the toyota 4's that are swapped into the Ae86 corolla's ( I can't remember the engine code) they have 5 valves per cylinder and I think ITB's to boot. There also a bout the same price as the RB you are going to start with and make good power as well as spinning like 9k or something silly. So you have your old school/new school thing taken care of as the engines are pretty recognizable, as well they make good power and rev. To top it all there not an arm and a leg and have an after market, to my knowledge this would also be an original swap. In response to the header questions my thinking is to adapt or go custom. So go buy a really cheap set of ebay bottom mount headers for what ever RB block you buy, and also buy a set of old L-series headers. Chop the flanges off both sets, of headers, run the RB header flange through a mill and then weld on the L-series headers. The ports should be pretty close and as a result your going to get a bolt on set of headers that are already tuned for a inline six, without messing with spacers or adapters etc, and should be a helluva lot cheaper than getting a custom set made. Somebody should do some measurements on the port size and spacing and see if this might work ? Or even easier go buy a cheap bottom mount tubo manifold, and a t-3 flange. Weld the flange to your downpipe and bolt it to the turbo outlet on the bottom mount. Chop and weld the pipe for the wastegate and your laughing. Might not be efficient but it would be cheap, hell you could even use the stock header and use a turbo flange to adapt it to your exhaust. If your totally set on carbing an RB, don't talk about it, buy one and build it, its not well documented so start reading how the L-series boys build theirs and transfer the knowledge over. Basically pretend you are building a stoker L-series in your head in which every part is hand built and that should give you a cost idea. Its hard enough finding RB parts let alone mysterious NA parts so start fabricating and good luck. Post your results on both threads and keep us updated. Basically every question you have asked can be answered in the L series thread or with the word custom. As I say, if you want to do it, go ahead and do it, your money etc, I just don't see this build being very efficient. It would also suck to get bitten buy the power bug and switch back to turbo after it all.

What engine managment are you using ?

I think the above points are really valid as far as safety when mig welding is concerned. Basically there are only a couple bad things that can happen while welding, either you burn yourself, which is easy with all the under coating and dirt associated with welding on a Z or you can start a fire. This is solved easily by making sure you are welding onto clean bare metal which is both clean of grease and paint. By getting rid of the contaminants you will have a much better weld, less smoke and less chance of a fire. As a side note, make sure you have a really good ground too, it will help with your welds and make sure that the outlet or extension that you use is rated to handle the current you welder needs. If its not your going to flip breakers and have bad welds. I learned this year how to weld on my Z so my points are totally based on my only experience I have, hope they help. Wearing a good respirator and an auto darkening mask will really help out alot, from a safety and comfort standpoint.

Here's mine !

Looks really nice, its almost the exact same setup as I have on my car, same muffler too! I havn't started mine yet, its on a turbo car though. You should get a sound clip of yours and post it up.

Yeah Jerry has an awsome car, part of the inspiration for my brother and I. Ill throw some pictures up of ours after we get a bit more done on it. I think it will be ready for the spring !

If you could figure out how to make this engine RWD, it would be a pretty cool swap. These engines have alot of potential, although they are quite difficult to work on in the stealth3000gt platform. I had thought about this engine too, but I was stumped at the transverse mounting transmission. I think there is a forum dedicated to this engine platform ... 3SI.org or somthing similar, they are running rediculous horsepower and 1/4 times with these. Do some reasearch and see what comes up. Good luck ! Chris

Im using an ebay special ... I had to modify it a bit to get it to fit right. My friend who modified it said the welds were good and the metal was fine. I paid 200$ for it. Its a topmount it fits and looks pretty nice. The car has yet to start so we'll see this summer on reliability.

Brilliant man!

You guys have a point about the flow etc, the intake is suposedly a "jun" style which really doesn't mean a damn thing. I think though for what Im shooting for I will be okay, were trying for a reliable 350 hp, once we do a computer and injectors/ wideband. In the form it is now I would hope for something around high 200 hp range. Who knows still twice as fun as the POS L24 that was in it, which was still hilarious.

Hey man looks really good, your swap and the one I am doing are almost identical! What intake manifold are you using ? Also what kind of exhaust manifold are you using ? We will have to compare notes when our swaps are all said and done! Best of luck Chris

I think that makes sense what you guys are saying. I knew the 25's use side feeds, thats nice to know they do go that high in flow. Im going to order that little fitting tonight and get it over with. In theory is the RB25 stock rail a restriction ? Or is the only reason to switch the ability to use top feeds ? Any how thanks guys for the feed back, its appreciated!

Hey Guys, Ive got some questions concerning the fuel rail on the RB and need input. As it stands right now I am using an aftermarket areomotive adjustable fuel pressure reg. The problem is the stock rail has a regulator bolted on from the factory. The stock regulator looks like this. . . You can buy a fitting like this to replace the regulator to accept AN lines, like this, the kicker is they cost around 50-80$ My question is, is it smarter to buy the adapter, or go and buy a whole new rail designed for side feeds? I am using stock injectors and the stock computer with low boost, with the intent to keep things stock for a year or so till I can afford an ECU and injectors. My other thought is that if the stock rail flows enough I could just stay with it and some side feeds, using the adapter and removing the nissan FPR. Any thoughts ??

Hey, Q, My brother and I are using a set of ARP studs that we bought of e-bay, they fit just fine.

Hey thanks for comments guy. Hopefully we can get it running over reading week. I didn't realize that intakes have varying trumpet sizes, Ill defiantly have to look into that. Ill check out that site too, sounds interesting. Cheers Chris

Not to rain on anyones parade, but if you think your going to do the RB25det swap it is alot more involved than a simple bolt in. The 200zr mounts do work, but the engine is fairly high from what I have heard. If your going through all the work to wire it up and put it in, get the machined aluminum mounts with the supra isolators and it will drop in, lower and further back with the 200zr oil pan. Other than moving the transmission mounts back you also need a driveshaft. Due to the fact you have a s130 you are lucky in that the wiring is a little easier than on the earlier Z's. I have no knowledge on the RB20 to Datsun 5 speed swap which was mentioned earlier in this thread, I would try for a RB25 transmission as it is strong enough all the hi-powered RB26DETT guys are using it and some flywheels and pressure plates, are compatible with the N/A 300zx. All of this stuff is documented on the site so basically read everything in the RB forum. I have no idea about the difficulties of the 1J you mentioned. Cheers