Canadianz

It really doesn't matter what type of bike you get, if you are biking hard any bike will give you an awesome workout. It more matters what kind of style you are into, if you like dirt jumps and playing around in skate parks buy a BMX bike, riding bmx is a really tough workout and is great for your arms and back along with your legs. However you have to have alot of guts to ride BMX hard and you can get pretty banged up too, also BMX bikes are slow around town and not as comfortable. If you live near some trails go buy a mountain bike and you will have a pretty darn good workout, riding a few km of trails with alot of hills and obstacles will get you in shape darn quick too. Only you can really decide what kind of bike fits your style or riding best, so you have to decide what you like. Biking as a form of exercise will only get you as fit as the effort you put into it. If you ride around your block and think your getting a work out well maybe you should find something else. I have no experience road biking but I know the guys that go one 30+ Km rides are in damn good shape again only because they work their ass off. So pick a style of bike you have fun on, expect to get banged up a bit if you are riding hard enough to get in shape and go out 4 or 5 times a week for an hour and you will see a big change in about a month. Hope this helps, Ive ridden alot of different styles and biking is a great way to get in shape if you push yourself. Cheers Chris

Hey Guys, definatly agree we should get an s30/rb crew together it would be fun to all meet up. As it stands we are having some problems with what we think is the TPS sensor as it is not working correctly and fighting with the 02 sensor. So basically as it stands she runs but sounds awful, now that the timing is set too it is better. Has anybody else had stuff like that happening ? Basically the engine idles a like 2k and runs like crap, I think we might be having some issues with the idle air valve so I guess its too early to ask. Gonna put the data scan on it to see what the deal is. So hopefully on the road soon! Cheers Chris

Welding the bottom of an oilpan onto your tank works great as a very cheap way to make a sump, and looks pretty good too! Theres no problem welding on it either, the tank is steel. Just be careful... you're welding a gas tank, so do everything you can to make sure there are no fumes in there!

Looks good Chris! I see you're not wasting any time getting that Z into true sportscar form, and now it won't be long until we can get all our Z's together for a bit of a cruise!

So we inadvertently started our RB25det powered Datsun tonight! !! My bro and I were having some really annoying issues with the wiring and tracking down some cuts that were in the harness. We were checking injector power and wouldn't you know that the car started totally by accident once we hit the key over! It ran like crap because it was missing a couple sensors and the CAS sensor wasn't set right either. so now its just fiddle work! Any how Rob and I are on cloud nine right now we are really thankful that we had Hybridz as a resource so thanks everyone ! This project has been about a year and a half with a pretty extensive rust repair job at the same time. So this was a great sound and kinda the light at the end of the tunnel. Expect more pics and a video this weekend. Chris and Rob

Thanks Evan, thats a possibility. From looking on the nico forums at wiper wiring on the S1 rb25's theres around 8 wires to control them, so I think this is possibly something different. Im guessing you probably cut this plug out and wired things in individually, or at least thats what I've started to do. I'm going to work on the car tonight and try to trace down the other three wires, and double check all the ecu grounds etc. to see why it won't boot up, so I'll see where that takes me. Thanks Chris and Rob

Any ideas guys? So far we've got the black/red one wired to kick the starter over, the white/red one as the alternator sense wire, and the yellow/brown wired as the alternator lamp wire I'm just not clear on the blue, black and yellow/white wires at the moment. Chris and Rob

Hi guys, were at the final stretch ! Everything is wired up except this weird grey plug. We have a series two RB25DET and this little plug comes off the harness down near the starter area of the loom. Now I think there was supposed to be a relay here as one of the wires goes to the starter, which we sorted out. As it stands right now the car will turn over but the ECU is not getting power. We have wired everything else up, correctly I think except this plug. Does anyone know what the pin out of the plug is, or what the wires all do besides the big Red/black which is for the starter. Heres the plug: Heres another pic Any help would be awesome, the car now turns over but the ECU is not booting up so we are not getting power to the fuel pump relay or the injectors etc. . . . on a side note if for some reason out ECU has had the biscuit, how would we check ? At the moment it has the battery backup power on but it won't boot up, I think it is related to this plug but Im not sure. Thanks Chris and Rob

JDM, StTrotter has some very good ideas, 90% of doing a project with so many aspects is to break it down piece by piece. It looks like your making some serious progress, Ive been in the exact same position your in and it is tough, try to pick one aspect and get it done. I would say try to get the engine to turn over or run. Once you have that going even if the drive train isn't hooked up you have huge motivation to get everything else done. Just to show you that all it takes is throwing a ton of hours, this is what my brother and I started with, both college kids with not a huge income. * note the hole where the battery tray is and the holes in the frame rails ... This is the piece of crap we started with. about 10 months or so later we made it this far . . . The key is to just as Strotter said focus on one part at a time. Even if you just decide to hell with it Im going to get a functioning RB swap going and use the shell you have until you find another one. Also remember, flat black rust plaint is your best friend for hiding little mistakes especially in metal work . Any how man don't give up just let the project go at its own pace and don't get disheartened if it turns in to a "while Im at it" project when your done you will be happier. Cheers Chris and Rob

Wow hey thanks guys, I appreciate the responses. I was just worried that for some weird reason I was going to mess up an ecu signal or something. The wiring is almost done now and I have the dash in, just had one of those hmmmmm moments.

Hmmmm, this is interesting. On my sump which is the rb20det pan on a rb25det, the hole you are trying to plug is plugged from the factory on mine. Its threaded and everything and even looks like it needs something, however I noticed the "side plug" your worried about after I filled mine with oil and it defiantly does not leak. So on the off chance that yours is actually plugged already, stick a screw driver in there and see what happens or put a bit of engine oil in just to see. I don't want to be the guy who states the obvious, this was just the case that I had, so maybe your fixing something that is fixed from the factory. Cheers Chris

Hi guys, I have an RB25Det, which is almost done, my brother and I were wondering where the best place on the RB block is to get an accurate oil pressure reading as we want to hook up our autometer gauge. The stock oil pressure sensor is still hooked up, does it send information to the ECU or is it just for the dash ? If its just for the dash then problem solved. I was just leary of removing it if it actually sent data to the ecu on how the car runs. We thought about T-eeing off the oil input to the turbo but again wondered about an accurate signal due to the restrictor etc. Any input ? Thanks Chris and Rob

If you are thinking of getting/ buying a downpipe the best option would be building your own out of three inch stainless steel. Any decent muffler place should be able to bend one up and weld the bungs in. If your stuck on using a stock one PM me I have a stock one kicking around somewhere. . . Good luck Chris

I can see what your saying, I should have said " who is using a standalone and the idle air control". I have heard that people can tune around it for start up etc. Just wanted some more input as not all of the standalones support idle air. Or is the idle air even a concern once the switch to a standalone is made ? I should have been more careful in my wording !

Thanks for all the contributions ! This is turning out to be a really cool thread. Now time for another question! Who is still using the idle control and if you have deleted it, I think JerryB did, what was the startup/ drivability like ? Thanks guys ! Chris

Not too sure what you mean by out sourcing, most good EMS systems if they are a standalone totally replace the stock ecu, and send out signal to drive the coil-on-plug ignition system that RB's have. Im not sure why somebody would want to use something like an MSD ignition box? Im not sure what part your talking about here. Defiantly though power can be made even on a stock system with a good tune.. Trying to figure out the same thing man . . . About BOV's some people will experience stumbling when they use a to atmosphere BOV dump, because a portion of the already metered air is lost and never reaches the engine. People get around this by placing the MAF's closer to the intake plenum and after the BOV's which means things need to be retuned as the maf is reading pressurized air as opposed to ambient pressure.

My brother posted earlier but I believe the studs we ended up using from our local dealer were off a maxima. Not 100% on that one but Im pretty sure, just take em in and get em checked, its the easiest route unless you have an awesome hardware/ fastener store around. Its usually easier to tell them its non automotive and make sure your get a good grade than to try and explain what its for. We have had some stores say "we don't sell automotive fasteners so don't ask" but in reality they have hi grade parts that are designated for other uses.

Another question about ecu's, has anyone used any of the Greddy E-manage systems on an RB. I have heard good things from skylinesdownunder.com just wondering what thoughts any one else might have on this. For their price they seem like a pretty darn good deal, lap top interface as well as "plug and play" with the existing loom and sensors. Second how important is it to switch to a blow through MAF or even to a MAP sensor? I know that a lot of people will move the MAF's closer to the throttle body in order to get rid of the problems associated with BOV's and stumbling etc. Next there is the other camp who want to remove the MAFs all together switching to the MAP sensors. Are MAPs inherently more accurate from a sensor standpoint or is it because MAF's are a major restriction ? Basically should I be looking for a MAP based ECU or should I not worry about it? My car has a stock block with a bigger turbo, intake manifold and an exhaust. Simple bolt ons, really and no internal work. I want to keep my car nice and streetable, maby with cams and some big injectors once everything is all broken in at the stock settings. A bit of a ramble I know, hopefully some of these questions can help other people too . Thanks Chris and Rob Crombie

Thanks Chris, thats the kind of actual information I was looking for! The Apexi, is another option to think about defiantly. I know Jerry B, who posts alot on this site is using one too and Is quiet pleased with the performance he's getting on his RBZ. The power FC is a full standalone correct ? Not just a fuel controller right? The other question I had was where did you source yours and how much did it set you back? I keep hearing things that the Apexi's are getting expensive now that they stopped production. Maybe I'm mixed up. Thanks Chris for some really concrete information to add to this thread. I have used a fair bit of your wiring guide and am just re installing the dash after we ripped out all the old 240z wiring which was fried. Anyhow Thanks ! Chris and Rob Crombie

I found its a lot easier and cheaper to simply take one of the good studs to a nissan dealer and get them to pick out some studs that are the same from their parts bin. I did have the part numbers for the studs and nuts around somewhere but when I called the dealer to order them in.... it was almost $10... for ONE stud! Maybe its because I'm in Canada, I don't know, but save a buck and just go to the dealer and get similar studs, its like less than 1/3 the cost.

On the topic of ECU's, I have heard that people are having trouble with the AEM systems, something to do with the CAS sensors. Is this a relevant issue when thinking about buying them? Also has anybody used or have experience with the Wolf500 EMS systems, I have heard good things . . .

Awesome man, glad to hear it !

What style and size of exhaust are you trying to run, Ive managed to run a 3 in with a resonator and a magnaflow muffler without any problems with moving the tank. I know some guys have even run 3.5 . Maby some pics would help

I totally agree, pull the dash out if your going to be fiddling in there with a soldering iron. I would also advise while its out to check all your vent hoses off the heater and that sort of stuff while your at it .

I cheated with mine, I took a plasma torch out cut off the old ears, patched the holes up then re welded the ears a bit further back in order to work with the old tranny mount. It was kind of a quick and dirty fix, but it works fin and looks stock ish too !