grumpyvette

it would help if I knew which welder you had and the amp and wire speeds available this is one good example of why some of the less expensive welders tend to be a bad value, dropping to the .023 wire should help, but its not a cure in all cases, 22 ga sheet steel is too thin for .030 wire in most cases, your normally SCREWED when the wires thicker than the sheet steel your welding, and 22 ga is.0253 thick you NEED,two infinitely adjustable a dials that can finely adjust the welder amps, from zero to the max rated amps and infinitely adjustable wire speed, from dead slow to fast having preset amps & speeds works great if those amps & speeds fall close to what you need and slight adjustments in technique can compensate, if not your basically fighting a loosing fight, and your skill won,t compensate http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/calculator.htm http://www.engineersedge.com/gauge.htm

if you get a chance at getting some experienced welder to give you some tips and hands on training JUMP ON THE CHANCE! Ive always felt that the brand name welder manufacturers should have made short ,very low cost classes on how to use their equipment available, at most dealers when you buy their equipment, because nothing sells welders as fast as having a buddy show you how well his new welder works. and the one thing that keeps guys from BUYING a decent welder is not the cost because we all know that if you want something badly enough and its cost is less than a months pay, you'll eventually find a way to afford it!,with most guys Ive talked with, its the idea that you'll spend the money and not be able to use the equipment, or use it often enough to justify its cost, but once they get some quality instruction it opens up a whole new world, and projects you've never dreamed of doing before start to look possible. before you own a welder, you buy things like car trailers, welding tables,accessory brackets,oil pans,traction bars,exhaust systems, fence gates, etc. but once you own one you buy steel, aluminum,axles and detailed construction plans, and BUILD stuff better than you could buy,and to YOUR specifications almost every guy I know that owns a welder bought that welder only after a buddy showed him how easy his welder was to use and how making things was not MAGIC but something almost anyone can do! besides, theres a great deal of satisfaction in building your own custom oil pans,exhaust systems, accessory brackets or suspension components

don,t forget the shield gas tank and the self darkening helmet, mig welding IS NOT FLUX CORE WELDING MIG done correctly is generally neater, and stronger and looks better ID strongly suggest sticking to a name brand, in the 180-210 amp range for the most versatile welder, welders are EXPENSIVE and you don,t want to find out you need to upgrade, or can,t get replacement parts in a few months, get a decent welder and it will last DECADES, and easily pay for it self over and over again, get a piece of cheap crap and you'll get frustrated, and make yourself crazy thinking you can,t learn to weld when its not YOU but the equipment that's easily most of the problem, yes the up front cost looks high, it is on decent equipment but a decent welder could last you 20-30 years under home use, and do hundreds of projects, its a TRUE BARGAIN, costing pennies on the dollar compared to farming out weld related work, plus your FAR more likely to get things done YOUR WAY rather than done 1/2 assed MILLER,LINCOLN ,HTP,HOBART http://www.htpweld.com/products/mig_welders/comparison.html example http://www.htpweld.com/products/mig_welders/mig_200.html http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907312 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907422 youll be amazed at the projects you can do, that you might not of even thought about before once you gain some experience, and it won,t take long to make the cost of the welder back if you do side work on custom exhausts

one more in an almost endless list of reasons why you need a decent welder and the skill to use it! look IM no expert, but I do weld frequently, and theres guys on this site that are far better welders than I am, but about 85%-95% of the time I manage to get things welded correctly on the first attempt, and on stuff IM very familiar with that climbs to close to 100% , which ain,t all that bad for an old geezer.......and yes IM a tool junky, and have several welders, MIG,TIG,ARC,OXY-ACETYLENE

ANY MOLY grease will sure be better than just oil alone or oil with EOS alone, but the moly cam lubes designed for break-in are supposed to have slightly more MOLY,and are designed, to wash off slowly and yes IVE used MOLY axle grease with great results a few times in the past when I was about 20,and had zero problems, but ID rather recommend use of the correct assembly lube BECAUSE its designed to dissolve in the oil and have a minimal effect on clogging the oil filter which the moly axle grease IS not designed to do, remember you'll want to replace the oil and filter after about 1-3 hours run time, to remove the moly and any metallic crud in the oil from the lifters laping in http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=282 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2166 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1489 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=130

I don,t know your exact problem but if you think the lifters slightly rusted or clogged ID shoot some mixed 50%/50% carb cleaner and marvel mystery oil down the push rod and let it sit over night after removing the rocker temporarily, then re-install the rocker and adjust it at idle so it clicks lightly, so it will tend to shake loose, if after about 30 minutes run time try to preload all the rockers only 1/4 turn, past the point the clicking just stops, and verify that oil flows freely from all the rockers or the lifter needs replacement

can you get them flowed to see if they are anything close to the printed flow numbers? and how about the valve seat run out and consistency of the valve geometry?

get all the sleep you can NOW! you won,t get much for the first 3 -6 weeks after your daughter arrives, until she gets accustomed to days/nights

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-22-592/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1222/

personally ID run a 10 ga copper wire along the frame and connect it to a dimmer switch I installed under the carpet, up out of the way but accessible with your toe (if you know where to push) so stepping on it would start and stop it providing power to the pump,so it will give you a bit of extra security in that you can make it far more difficult to steal your car, and its not obvious that you are turning on/off the fuel pump obviously you can get the factory shop manual and make the connections just like the factory pump if you choose too, so the pump comes on when the keys used to start the car,having a lead that only goes hot once the ignitions on, is a better option for most guys so its best to connect to a power lead supply that only goes hot once the ignitions on and remember to push the button to activate the pump, or de activate it as you, enter or exit the car, but either way the cars fuel pump will not run when the keys off, if you get absent minded, and you have the option of de-activating the pump if you park the car for extra security, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-80150/Application/?prefilter=0 yes you could connect the feed directly to the battery but youll need to REMEMBER to start and stop the pump circuit or you'll run the battery dead, or the car won,t start until you remember to turn on the pump IF you turned it off,when you exited the car but having a hidden switch , makes it so you can park the car, and anyone even if they take your keys in a car jacking wont get all that far, PROVIDED you make it a habit to touch the switch as you exit the car (just an option) (having a small light on the dash under the fuel pressure gauge that indicating power to the pump wired into the circuit helps, you remember to turn on the pump)

each states laws differ but ID say the build dates are close enough that the engine could very easily be a same year replacement crate engine from a car of the same year thats been rebuilt , same as the body and thats how ID approach the problem and title the car, its a 1981 car with a 1981 engine, they will have an impossible job proving other wise http://search.dmv.org/dmv/new-jersey/kit-car http://www.dmv.org/nj-new-jersey/custom-built-cars.php http://search.dmv.org/dmv/getting-a-title-for-kit-car http://www.sos.state.il.us/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply_custom_rod.html http://www.mva.maryland.gov/AboutMVA/INFO/27300/27300-31T.htm

verify the inlet of feed side of the pumps hooked to the from tank fuel feed and the out side of the pumps to the carb, I know that's OBVIOUS but its on occasion overlooked then run a NEW fuel feed line, with a new strainer sock and do it correctly, also remember some factory cars have in tank fuel pumps , you can,t suck fuel thru one so verify thats not the case in this case

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1718&p=4257&hilit=+seal#p4257 tips ? make sure your using the correct seal design for the journal diam. use the correct seal with the lip facing to the engine front use silicone sealant on the ends and off set the ends from the blocks main cap slightly use the brush on sealant on the contact area between the main cap and block and the rear outward surface on the seal make sure you degrease the seal mounting surface before snapping it into place with the wet brush on sealant on the back outer surface lube the lip of the seal that touches the rotating crank with a finger tip of Vaseline

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00425&x=34&y=3 heres a decent choice in a solid roller cam for that application but talk to the crower tech guys

IF your thinking, many of my friends are careless, sloppy or unlucky,well, take the time to ask any of the older more experienced guys who work on cars, no, its not really that, its just I know a great many people in the auto hobby and having built many of them engines over the years, and between electrical screw-ups welding accidents and stupid moves with fuel, I get to hear lots of conversations and shop or garage fires while VERY COMMON are usually put out and no big deal its something that needs to be pointed out and watched. I doubt you'll find ANYONE whose worked around cars that has not at one time or another had a minor shop fire if they have been doing serious work with electrical systems, fuel system or welding for at least a few dozen years, most of those fires are minor in scope if caught early, and can be stamped out, or a garden hose, used, and people rarely brag about getting careless or consider a fire that they put out seconds after it started really news worthy . its going to be a rare guy thats never seen hot welding slag, welding rods, fuel spills, sparks, or just electrical problems not cause a minor fire that they needed to put out, in 20-30 years. IM just trying to point out the potential and limit the damages

one very simple to over look factor is the trash cans you select for the shop, that factor was brought home recently when a buddy's shop almost caught fire, he had the common plastic trash cans in his shop rather than the galvanized steel with lids that tend to be a bit safer. now when I say that it might take a bit of explanation, he had just changed out some batteries in a couple meters and thrown them into a trash can near his shop door where he kept the trash can, what he didn,t realize was the battery was still mostly charged even if it was 6 months old and it landed in a bunch of steel wool and paint, and sand paper from a recent project, the battery, shorted out,igniting the steel wool, paint, paper etc. and by the time my friend noticed, there were flames and the trash can it self was starting to burn along with the trash in it, if it was a metal can with a lid the chances would be far better that even if it caught fire, it would be less likely to catch the near by objects on fire than a plastic can that added fuel to the fire. and theres a good chance a metal can with a snap on lid would not allow enough air to the fire to let it burn efficiently. he had a fire extinguisher, luckily, and got it put out quickly but not before the trash can was mostly on fire and he swears the time between throwing the batteries in the trash can and the fire was under 7-8 minutes. if you don,t think that can happen , try dropping a partly charged ,9volt battery into a pile of shredded 0000 steel wool, mixed with paint chips and paint thinner you might be amazed at the results. I told him he was darn lucky, if he had thrown the battery away as he left the shop chances are good that by the time he noticed the fire it would have been a major fire, I also suggested use of both metal cans with lids and a smoke detector would not hurt. an getting the fire extinguisher refilled would be a great idea. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=81

http://www.holley.com/12-801-1.asp at 97 GPH at no resistance flow, and only 71 GPH at 4 psi for FEEDING BOTH NITROUS, and a carb on a high performance application its MARGINAL UNDER THE BEST CONDITIONS in fact without NITROUS its MARGINAL on a high performance application Features * Tumble Polished Billet Look * New Lower Housing Casting for Enhanced Fuel Flow and Quieter Operation * Maximum Pressure Is 7 PSI * Motor Draws 2 Amps Current * 7 1/2 Amp fuse recommended * Constant Fuel Flow with No Pulsation * Improved design for street/strip applications * Distinctive “RED” logo * Flows 97 GPH (free flow) * Flows 71 GPH at 4 PSI * Regulator is not required * Has externally accessible pressure relief valve (max 7 PSI) * Rotor/Vane pump design is more tolerant of contaminated fuels * Weighs only 2.88 lbs * Includes mounting bracket * Repair kits are readily available * Can be serviced from the pump end * NOT compatible with alcohol or methanol fuels * Use of safety shut-off switch, P/N 12-810, strongly recommended * Not designed or recommended for use with fuel injection systems

info with videos included in the link and more videos below http://electron.mit.edu/~gsteele/mirrors/www.nmis.org/EducationTraining/machineshop/mill/intro.html http://www.eng.mu.edu/~dlc/machineshop/mill/intro.html http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/127-machine-shop-4 http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/183-machine-shop-5 http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/183-machine-shop-6 http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/183-machine-shop-7 yes I know this stuff is only of interest if you actually want to know how things get machined or if you own a milling machine, but it never hurts a darn thing to have the basic concepts down when some machine shop starts to B.S. you about the difficulty of doing some things, if you've got a good grasp on what you want done and how its accomplished you'll make smarted decisions. the milling machine and the LATHE are the two real basic powered machine tools that allow most machine work to get done, add a decent welder and you can do a great deal of the work on your car or fabricate many custom parts LATHE RELATED http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/144-machine-shop-8 http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/144-machine-shop-9 http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/144-machine-shop-10 WELDERS INFO requires a bit of INFO from you on WHAT YOUR DOING and WHAT your useing this might help http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_252/

base it on the 4 lbs you see spraying fuel,(for now) and don,t forget to retard the ignition total advance and work up to the point in the ignition advance just before you get detonation indicators, but the truth is if your seeing any drop in pressure the fuel system needs to be upgraded, you probably need bigger lines and a better fuel pump and better fuel pressure regulators http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuelish-tendencies-understanding-fuel-pressure-and-volume-spg-140.html http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211 in this diagram the dead head regulators are some what optional, but the rest of the diagram holds true, damn I wish you were local, we could have a real good time

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LCT-37418/ clean the threads with acetone then tighten to torque specs after coating threads with loctite

flux core is NOT MIG WELDING, and its a VERY POOR substitute in most cases, if weld finish quality matters, especially on thin sheet metal http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/migvsfluxcored.asp http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=1958 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907335

ok step one call me (you have a PM) because theres a great deal that needs to be quickly verified IGNITION TIMING FUEL PRESSURE PLUG GAP IGNITION WIRE RESISTANCE FIRING ORDER FLOAT LEVELS COMPRESSION AIR FILTERS BATTERY VOLTAGE COIL POLARITY READING THE PLUGS CAM TIMING VALVE ADJUSTMENT OIL PRESSURE VACUME LEAKS and more

see dial indicators DO HAVE USES!!! always glad to help! BTW http://www.compcams.com/Products/335-353.PDF I usually groove my lifter bores slightly to allow the oil to flow/spray just a bit more flow volume to the lifter base/cam lobe and theres no reason you can,t do something similar to the lifter bore wall above the oil passage for about .200" to allow oil to feed the lifter in greater volume , or to bevel the oil feed hole slightly in the lifter body if its helps in your application CAREFULLY verifying measurements, like you did rather than trusting in luck,and doing little mods like that, if well thought thru, and carefully done are the difference between building engines, correctly for durability, and just assembling components, ID bet 80% of the guys assembling engines NEVER bother to check things like that you just did and as a result they will have (UN-EXPLAINED) problems YOU will have avoided/prevented

standard comp endurex roller lifter http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=823-1&Category_Code= the comp tech guys have consistently made me crazy over the years, (not knowing some answers or knowing their product line)the oil hole is low enough to allow oil to feed the push rod on the cams base circle, if you measure the distance the oil hole is from the roller wheel surface, on the cam youll see the distances are slightly different between the brands, then measure a lifter bore and that oil passage to the cams base circle youll see it gets oil on the base circle. but yes I think the isky design is superior, but the comp lifters should work ok. http://www.iskycams.com/pdf/5-ISKYCatalog2009f_01Master%20Catalog2004%20%28Page%2024%29.pdf