grumpyvette

Im thinking youve got a clearance issue, are the lifters loud if both valve covers are removed/ does the sound change when you back the adjustment nut out just to the point it starts clicking then tighten just to the point the clicking stops at idle then you add a 1/4 turn? whats the cam lobe lift? whats your spring bind height? did you verify the piston to valve clearance? retainer to valve seal clearance? pushrod to guide clearance? retainer to rocker? rocker to rocker stud? rocker stud to rocker slot? etc.??????? have you found the source or are you guessing?

http://www.turbofast.com.au/links.html http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article021/A21-P1.htm all the research has already been done...BUT theres NOTHING budget about a correctly built turbo motor!

use this 406 short block, its easier to get the necessary power than building a 383 from your 350 block, and its a much stronger block, http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html this top end kit http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK314%2D500%2D450&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-2975 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRO-66310-16 and find a low profile 7-8 qt baffled oil pan that fits your application

look closely at the connecting rods one edge of the main bearing are is beveled noticably more than the other that beveled side faces away from the rod its paired with because it matches the slight radias of the crank journal ok lets look at a few things, first , if you look closely at your connecting rods you'll see that one side has considerably more bevel ground on the inner edge of the connecting rod around the bearing than the other side does, to side with that bevel ground on it is to provide clearance for the radius ground onto the crankshaft where the crank throw meets the counterweights like you mentioned, that side of course goes out away from the other rod, to side with far less pronounced bevel is the side where the two connecting rods meet, and ride against each other during normal engine operation normal clearance there is in the area of six to 15 thousands of an inch. When the two connecting rods are correctly torque in place and a feeler gauge is fitted between them to check the maximum clearance. Now a small block Chevrolet the valve placement or valve layout is in this order on a normal head, E I I E E I I E , the letter (E) of course representing exhaust and the letter (I) of course representing intake your Pistons will have to be inserted into the cylinders matching that layout, this will mean there will be two left and two right Pistons on each cylinder bank, if there is a dome on the Pistons it will go towards the outside of the block, when the machine shop installed the Pistons on the connecting rods, they should have been set up with four of the Pistons set up with the exhaust valve notch on the Pistons facing towards the bevel on the connecting rods and four of the Pistons set out live the intake valve side of the Pistons facing that bevel, lets look at the first two cylinders, cylinder number one is the front left forward facing forward look at the diagram per cylinder layout any on that Piston both the bevel for the Crank Journal that provides bearing clearance and the exhaust valve notch would be towards the front of the engine, but on the next cylinder number two, on the opposite side of the engine. That Piston would have the bevel on the connecting rod facing the rear of the engine, but the exhaust valve notch would be facing the front of the engine, now let's look at cylinders three and four, cylinder number three, would have the bevel on the rod of course facing forward but the exhaust valve notch facing the rear of the engine, on cylinder number four you would have the bevel on the connecting rod facing towards the rear of the engine, and the exhaust valve notch facing towards the rear of the engine, now let's look at cylinders 5 and 6 cylinder number five, bevel forward exhaust forward, cylinder number six exhaust forward but bevel towards the rear for cylinders number 7 & 8 on cylinder number seven, exhaust out notch towards the rear, bearing bevel towards the front of the engine on cylinder number eight bearing bevel towards the rear of the engine and exhaust out towards the rear of the engine keep in mind that some non- standard head / port layouts can potentially change the piston notch layout you’ll also need to make sure you’re piston ring end gap is correct, that the piston rings have the correct side facing upwards that the bearings are installed with the correct clearance, and coated with assembly lubricant, that the piston to cylinder block deck clearance is correct ,that your quench distances are correct, and that after you degree in the cam that the piston to valve Clearance is correct. Youll also need to be careful that you don,t hit the connecting rod or rod bolts to the crank journals potentially causing any damage during the installation, and its normal to oil the rings and piston with a lite machine oil during the installation. Ive personally found that the piston ring compressors that work best are this type, this type is far easiers to line up to the block surface at a slight angle that allows the rings to partly pop out from under its lower edge just as the rings leave the lower edge of the compressor and enter the cylinders bore, now Im not saying you can,t do it, just that its far easier to do it correctly with this type of ring compressor.

I can,t tell you the number of times I see guys with chevelles,camaros, etc, that have problems with a 10 bolt rear. and the first thing you hear is get a 12 bolt, well, a decent 12 bolt is ok, but pro built it can easily cost over $3K, and if your swapping to a stronger rear differential anyway look over your options,if your going to install some killer turbo or big block combo youll probably want to upgrade to a live axle with a 4 link vs the irs it came with in your datsun, just due to the increased strength required on hard launches ok I just got to ask, why would anyone pay $3200 plus for a 12 bolt when theres bolt in rears based on a hybrid dana 60 available with its 9.75" rear gears that are darn near bullet proof,that are significantly stronger, and depending on options ,costs less vs the chevy 8.7/8" gears and lower strength assembly yes the chevys 25 lbs lighter but that 25 lbs is all steel that makes the dana 60 hybrid significantly stronger http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html I destroyed several 12 bolts beore swapping to a dana 60 with a nitrous BBC in a camaro, I installed a dana 60 and never had another problem the reason I bring this up, is that theres DOZENS of options http://dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/9inchrearends.htm http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/200/article/Dana_60_Rebuild.html http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=198404 http://www.autohobbydigest.com/dana.html http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Dana%2060%20Manual%20(Rea%20Axle).PDF http://www.offroaders.com/directory/axles/dana60.htm http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/alldana60.aspx the ford 9" and dana 60 rear were used for years in trucks and a few cars, theres still plenty out there in salvage yards and many are also reasonably priced

ok where to start? (1) your talking about this cam http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DCL12%2D213%2D3&autoview=sku its a TOTAL #$%%^^ MIS MATCH to stock heads, a 307 with stock compression and a stock stall speed converter and rear gear, theres nothing wrong with the cam in the correct combo but what you listed is not close! ideally that cam needs to be matched to 350-400 sbc,heads that flow about 250cfm or better at .500 lift,a 10.5:1-11:1 cpr, a 3500rpm stall converter and a 3.73:1-4.56:1 rear gear "I'm having a buddy tell me that aluminum heads aren't worth the price and you can port stock 1.94's to flow just as well as an aftermarket head." to be polite ..your buddies dreaming....unless hes refering to matching the flow rates to something pathetic like stock aluminum corvette L98 heads, because theres not enought metal in the stock iron small valve head to even support porting the stock heads to that extent, and even if you turned the heads over to a master head porter he would charge far more to get an inferior head than you could buy a decent aftermarket head for youll get the best bang for rour dollar with a 350 or 383 your usually limited to about a .470 lift with stock valve train components on factory orriginal heads good 23 degree sbc aluminum heads flow up to 320cfm stock 194. valve iron heads after port work don,t usually get to 235cfm look heres some pro port shop BRAGGING they get 200 cfm from a similar head and 235cfm from ported fuelies http://www.castheads.com/factory_chevy_305.php http://www.castheads.com/factory_chevy_492.php compare http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy I can give you a parts list, but if you start substituting out parts on that list for what you get a (GOOD DEAL) on and don,t match ALL the required matching drive train, and listed components chances are excellent it won,t run worth #$%& when your done!...even a single substituted component, or changing the cpr, or restricting the exhaust,etc, can drastically reduce the power output

can it be made to run? probably. but theres so many areas that can or might get, lets say (screwed up) that its going to take a good deal of fabrication, and tunning skills, to get it working reasonably well,any time you get into a project, its best to follow an EXACT PROVEN FORMULA and PARTS LIST, throwing parts you have access to or get deals on at a project to keep costs low rarely results in a nearly ideal result.

if they both make equal hp, power the turbo 302 is probably the better engine in traffic

most problems are the result of not changing the filters frequently enought, once the filter medium becomes partly clogged the filter rapidly starts to bye-pass at least some percentage of the oil durring cold starts and rapid changes in rpm levels, most of the cleanable filters Ive examined have very limited surface areas so they would need to be cleaned very frequently. the better throw aways have 400 sq inches of surface area, Ive never seen a single cleanable oil filter that states thier screens surface area but looking at them Id be amazed if it exceeded 220 sq inches look closely at the design of the filters and youll see the differances http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram-ph8a

I don,t see the advantage of spending $200 on an oil filter you need to clean every so often when there ARE decent throw away designs, that work just fine for under $10 each

not quite sure how your set up but this MIGHT help http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html simple and effective now many guys I know have never seen these traction bars so Ill point them out http://www.4secondsflat.com/CalTracs.html http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

first CONGRATS getting 400 hp out of that 6 cylinders a feat few guys actually reach, BUT ,a complete list of your engine specs, displacement, most parts, cpr, etc, and parts list would be VERY HELPFUL

the th350 should be fine, the th400 is a far better choice once the torque levels exceed about 430 ft lbs, as its significantly stronger internally but at 350 hp the lighter th350 makes more sence http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/gear_ratios.asp

ID suggest your start with these components cam http://www.iskycams.com/timingchart.php?product_number=201296/6 lifters http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/OriginalFT.html AFR 210cc heads 74cc http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php yes the heads are expensive,(BUT WORTH IT) heres a lower cost option, http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/1021001/10002/-1 or http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS%2D30400003&N=700+115&autoview=sku intake http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WND%2D8501&autoview=sku carb http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D0%2D4779C&N=700+115&autoview=sku short block http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_mini.php?id=3 match ideally to a manual trans and 3.90:1 rear gear

Id need to know what parts you currently have, the drive train that your using (gearing,stall speed ,transmission, clutch,etc.)and a rought idea as to what your trying to accomplish(GOAL??) and budget??

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=15120&line=MWM

guys Ive got over 8 gigs of info stored in various hard drives, and close to 40 years experiance building engines and racing cars, if youve got auto related questions theres a decent chance Ive got at least some valid related info that might help, so if youve got questions post a brief subject your interested in discussing

http://www.freealloil.com/ is the best stuff Ive found, repeated heating with a propane torch (190-250 degrees F...water misted on the part boils very quickly but, doesn,t instantly turn to steam) and spraying with that stuff letting it sit and soak,for awhile, then try twisting the part out firmly but don,t strip it or bust it, then repeat the process, a few times,tends to loosen lots of rusted bolts

CONGRATS! just be sure the engines stored every time its turned off with GAS in the fuel lines as ethanol/methanol attracts moisture/rust/coroasion issues

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! but could you PLEASE change the input, thats a HYDROLIC ROLLER CAM, , and large tube headers with mufflers matches better, THANKS IVE got to learn how to post those pictures of software predicted power curves

http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission_300zx_tt.html gear spread sheet that comes in handy THANKS TO 1FATGMC http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html HERES OTHER INFO LINKS http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#tabtop http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#Auto

no Im not a computer, like the rumours say, just an old geezer! in a red shirt and a old hat...notice the similarity to the avatar

if your going to do differant things and sometimes get into welding for extended periods a water cooled torch, with a seperate fluid pump, may be a better option, even if it costs a good deal more

yes I was young once! yes IM still broke most of the time and yeah! I can,t dump buckets of cash into any project so I know exactly where your comeing from, wanting to build from whats available, between the fenders... you can,t expect to throw a mild upgraded,mid durration cam, an intake and a larger carb on the combo and get near the results, you would with a 350,yes you can mildly port the current heads and gain a few hp, adding a cam and headers will help, below youll find some tech articles on building a 305 sbc, the one thing youll find in comon is that it takes a good deal of time and effort, for that 305s , 3.736" bore x 3.48" stroke and reasonably expensive parts to exceed 325-350 hp with a 305 sbc, if your not using nitrous. the truth is your working at a serious dis-advantage with the small bore size and the valves that will clear the clyinder walls at higher lifts....if you put the same money and effort into a 355 or 383 youll see much better results now that doesn,t mean it can,t be done, but your basically starting the hp race with one foot nailed to the floor.so as long as your aware that your at a disadvantage , read thru the links why do I point that out? because its usually not all that difficult to find a decent 350 core to work with, your local bargin trader magazine or the classifieds will usually provide you with leads to cars or engines that need repairs or assembly that have been sitting around, I picked up a 454 bbc suburban with alot of rust and a busted trans for under $400, so theres deals if you look around, I think you can find a basic 350 to build and swap into the car as a starting point, for under $300, momey well spent, and yes it might take a month or so to find at a decent price, but in the long run youll be way ahead! http://www.hioutput.com/tech/343hp/343hp.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/chevrolet/0667_phrs_305_chevy_engine_blocks/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0502_chevrolet_305_ci_engine_build/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0409_chevrolet_305_ci_engine_build_ii/index.html