grumpyvette

http://www.projectlt10.com/content/modules/tinycontent/index.php?id=103

if your running a flat tappet cam you might want to look into this, its been tested by an independent lab and it does add significant ZDDP to the oil, that reduces wear like the old oils used to do. http://cam-shield.com/acatalog/index.html

Gollum at a MINIMUM invest in a TRUCK style steering wheel lock bar and install a hidden kill switch to the ignition, it also helps to park in hard to access well lighted locations with a second car blocking yours from moving at night if possiable http://www.drivingcomfort.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=3507&sc=6478 read http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/103271/article.html then theres obviously http://www.lojack.com/knowledge/pages/knowledge-facts.aspx

THANK YOU GENTELMEN! Ill try to add to the site where I can!

I went with the Lunati Voodoo 268 cam. I believe the specs on this cam at .050 are 227/ 233 degree which with 1.52 ratio rocker arms gives me at .510 lift. After talking to a tech at Dart he recommended I go with 1.437 springs so I did. .... I have a performer rpm intake, but I did not think the runners would be sufficient so I ordered the CNC matched Victor Jr. from Summit. I will also ditch the 600cfm holley carb I have on it now and install a 750cfm. I ordered a 1" spacer also. Is it worth the sacrificing bottom end for top end with my set up since my cam only goes to 6200rpm? " that looks like it will be a nice street strip combo,but if your still running a stock stall speed converter I think youll see a few driveability issues with the 268 cam, youll probabbly want to upgrade to a 2800rpm stall speed, and while youll certainly see hp gains over the original combo once its correctly tunned, and YOU can certainly try both intakes with that cam and the larger 750cfm carb and the new heads, and taller tires, I think youll find that the orriginal rpm dual plane intake(possiably with the 1" spacer) will give the best results with the cam you sellected, now Im certainly not suggesting the vic junior won,t have a slightly higher effective rpm peak, but I think youll quickly find the total tq curve below about 4500rpm, gave up a noticable amount of torque vs what you gained in horsepower in the 5500-6500 rpm range with that cam and the taller tires, etc. Id be very surprised to see the vic jr produce better ETs, than the rpm intake once youve installed the taller tires, new cam, big port heads and 750 cfm carb(again possiably with the 1" spacer) as a general rule single plane intakes work better once the cam durration exceeds about 235-240 durration at a minimum , simply because the intakes designed to produce better hp than the dual plane mostly above 5500rpm, and your cam is starting to run out of its intended rpm band by that point, killing off much of the potential gains yes a great deal depends on your driving style and the traction your getting, but adding tire dia. tends to put a premium on the use of mid rpm torque. btw as I pointed out earlier in the thread a solid lifter flat tappet cam generally provides an extra 600-800rpm over a hydrolic cam, you probably could have gained a bit more with a carefully sellected solid lifter design PLEASE,once its tunned correctly let us know what the results are

Dart Block 9" deck JE pistons 4.155 bore, 1.125 comp height Scat 44lb light weight crank 3.750 stroke Scat H beam rods 6.0 10.3 to 10.5 comp ratio, with the 70cc heads AFR 210cc heads 8 qt baffeled oil pan milodon windage screen http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php crane Roller hyd http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119841&lvl=2&prt=5'>http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119841&lvl=2&prt=5 1.6 rockers EDELBROCK RPM AIR GAP intake 750 speed demon carb its a street strip combo and you want to run high test Id suggest a cpr in the 10.0-10.3:1 range with that 119841 crane cam,a quench distance of about .040-.044 max, and Id watch the ignition curve A/F ratio and coolant temps, you should be fine as long as its slightly rich on the a/f ratio (12.7-13.7:1) and the coolant temps kept in the 170F-180F range most of the time, be aware that an oil cooler helps, reduce the tendency to get into detonation, as piston and valve temps are also controlled and stabilized to some degree thru high flow rates of oil thats kept preferably in the 215F-220F range maximum and a high capacity baffled oil pan with ideally a windage screen to strip excess oil off the rotating assembly, yes youll need to watch the sparkplug condition and header temps for info on the combustion chamber temps but you should have a nice combo when its done, yes ID run the 1.6:1 roller rocker but your effective lift will be approaching .595 so check all clearances in the engine carefully and make sure the valve spring load rates and clearances and valve train geometry is ok before starting it up, Id sure want a .100 valve to piston clearance minimum, and a valve max lift in the .650-.680 range if possiable Id suggest 1 3/4" dia. & 38" long primairys and a 19" long 3" dia collector on the headers don,t look to exceed 6300rpm and you should see a decent torque curve that will make a light car in the 2600lb-3000lb range scoot nicely with a manual trans and a 3.73-3.90 rear gear ratio keep in mind the idea is NOT PEAK hp but a responsive combo with instant killer tq, that pulls hard over a wide rpm band! IS THERE ANYONE HERE THAT CAM POST A DD 2000 results on the combo?? Please keep us posted on the projects progress and your results,IF YOU BUILD THIS, pictures are always appreciated, and (HINT)verify those spring load rates, install heights,dia,clearances etc and clearance issues with BOTH crane and AIR FLOW RESEARCH when ordering parts,pushrod lengths and valve train geometry will naturally need to be checked and verified durring assembly. http://www.racingsprings.com/beehivesprings.htm http://www.racingsprings.com/PDF/beehive.pdf http://www.ferrea.com/ http://www.ferrea.com/general-results.php?company_id=100631&category_id=6038 beehive springs allow a smaller dia and lighter weight retainer and give greater rocker to retainer clearance, and you might want longer valves to keep the geometry correct with the extra tall valve spring installed height that MIGHT be necessary (I usually have guys order from these suppliers)or at least get the parts special ordered from summitracing or jegs if I build the heads up custom) ID order from these guys(but have a long talk with CRANE and AIR FLOW RESEARCH tech guys) http://www.dougherbert.com/ http://www.summitracing.com/ http://www.jegs.com/?sendroicid=1B2A8F2F-B67C-4565-BCCE-C050BEADB5CD&sendroiad=2899439139&sendroikwd=jegs+EXACT&gclid=CNLmhvus4ZUCFQ60Hgody3ZkWw http://www.ohiocrank.com/ http://www.lewisracingengines.com/ http://www.cranecams.com/

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html HERES OTHER INFO LINKS http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#tabtop http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#Auto

"The LSA, or lobe separation angle, is ground into the cam and cannot be changed. It is the angle that separates the intake and exhaust lobe for a particular cylinder, and is measured in camshaft degrees. The intake lobe centerline is measured in crankshaft degrees. The #1 intake lobe centerline is usually between 100° to 110° ATDC and is what you use to degree the cam. The cam manufacturer will publish the specs for the cam based on a given intake lobe centerline. Comp Cams, for instance, produces a large number of cams with 110♥° LSA ground 4° advanced, so they list the specs for the cam with a 106° intake lobe centerline. You can calculate the ILC by adding the intake opening angle in °BTDC, the intake closing angle in °ABDC, plus 180° for the distance from TDC to BDC. Divide by 2 and subtract the intake opening angle and you will have the ILC. For example a 12-430-8 Comp Cam lists IO at 34°BTDC, IC at 66° ATDC, so 34 + 66 + 180 = 280. 280/2 = 140. 140 - 34 = 106° ILC Figure 3 is a picture of both an intake and an exhaust lobe of a camshaft, seen end-on. It shows the relationship between the lobes, shows the overlap area, and illustrates this next section. As stated in lesson 2, overlap has a great deal to do with overall engine performance. Small overlap makes low-end torque but less high-end power. Large overlap reduces low-end torque but increases high-end power. Overlap is determined by two other cam specifications, Duration and Lobe Center Angle. Duration is the time, measured in crankshaft degrees, that a valve is open. A duration of 204 degrees means that while the valve is open, the crankshaft rotates through 204 degrees. Duration is measured on two "standards," "advertised duration" and "duration at 0.050"." Advertised duration is measured from when the valve just starts to lift off its seat to when it just touches the seat again. This is measured in different ways by different manufacturers. Some measure when the valve lifter is raised 0.004", some at 0.006", and some at different points yet. So the industry agreed to another standard that was supposed to make it easier to compare cams. In this standard, the duration is measured between the point where the lifter is raised by 0.050", and the point where it is lowered again to 0.050". The 0.050" standard is great for side-by-side "catalog" comparisons between cams. But if you use engine prediction software on your computer, the software is much more accurate when you can feed it "advertised" duration numbers. Lobe Center Angle is the distance in degrees between the centers of the lobes on the camshaft. To increase duration, cam makers grind the lobes wider on the base circle of the cam. This makes the lobes overlap each other more, increasing overlap. More duration = more overlap. To increase overlap without changing duration, cam makers will grind the lobes closer together, making a smaller lobe center angle. Less lobe center angle = more overlap. Overlap and duration are the two big factors in cam design. More overlap moves the power band up in the engine's RPM range. Longer duration keeps the valves open longer, so more air/fuel or exhaust can flow at higher speeds. It works out that increasing the duration of the camshaft by 10 degrees moves the engine's power band up by about 500 rpm. A smaller lobe separation increases overlap, so a smaller lobe separation angle causes the engine's torque to peak early in the power band. Torque builds rapidly, peaks out, then falls off quickly. More lobe separation causes torque to build more slowly and peak later, but it is spread more evenly over the power band. So a larger lobe separation angle creates a flatter torque curve. So you can see how a cam maker can tailor the camshaft specs to produce a particular power band in an engine-- Short duration with a wide separation angle might be best for towing, producing a strong, smooth low-end torque curve. Long duration with a short separation angle might be suited for high-rpm drag racing, with a high-end, sharp torque peak. Moderate duration with wide separation angle might be best suited for an all-around street performance engine, producing a longer, smoother torque band that can still breathe well at higher RPM. Remember, there's always a compromise made in this process. One last item to consider is the lobe centerline. The lobe centerline is the angle of the lobe's center peak, measured in crankshaft degrees when the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). In general (but not always), when a cam is installed "straight up," the intake lobe centerline and the lobe separation angle are the same. The lobe centerline can be altered when the camshaft is installed, by advancing or retarding the camshaft's position in relation to the crankshaft. Advancing the camshaft by 4 degrees will move the power band about 200 RPM lower in the RPM band. Retarding the cam by 4 degrees will likewise move the power band 200 RPM higher in the RPM band. This allows you to fine-tune the engine's performance according to your needs. personally I try to stay close to 106- 110 degrees on most carb engines and 112-114 degrees on EFI engines because I value a wider torque curve more than a few hp only close to peak rpm, and ther tends to be fewer low rpm tunning issues with efi vs carbs that way example http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 (112 lca) http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 (106 LCA) http://www.compcams.com/Technical/TimingTutorial/ http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html http://tru-442.tripod.com/camselect.htm http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html http://tru-442.tripod.com/camselect.htm

you might want to keep in mind its basically a throttle body injection system and while it in theory beats a carb, its never going to beat a MPFI set-up for f/a ratio control to each cylinder due to the design limitations

btw this may help, most garages need a welder or a lift, sooner or later so youll more than likely need a 220 volt outlet (30-100amp) this wiring stuffs not hard to do, but use the correct gauge wire and the correct plugs and sockets for the application and ID strongly suggest useing a MINIMUM of 10ga wire for 110volt and 3/4" metalic conduit (use the correct single breaker rating for the application on the 110 volt) 110 v outlet end black/power to the gold screw white/neutral to the silver screw green/ground to the green screw 110v at the box black/power to breaker white/ neutral to neutral bar green/ ground to ground bar and 6GA-4 GA on the high amp 230 volt applications,like WELDERS, little 230volt stuff like compressors and lifts get along fine with (3 or 4) 10 ga wires (use the correct dual breaker rating for the application on the 220 volt) 220v at the outlet red feed to one hot black feed to one hot green to ground on plug (optional but HIGHLY RECOMENDED) second green to the conduit ground screw 220v at the box red to one side of DUAL breaker black to one side of DUAL breaker green/ ground to ground bar optional green/ ground to ground bar LINKS THAT MAY HELP http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/home-wiring-usa/ http://www.mlec.com/Homeown.htm http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U077.pdf http://techpubs.sgi.com/library/tpl/cgi-bin/getdoc.cgi/0650/bks/SGI_Admin/books/OrOn2_SitePrep/sgi_html/apb.html

Id suggest a new gauge and sending unit, if you don,t know the condition of the old stock parts, it generally requires a sending unit, and a connecting wire that connects the gauge to that sending unit, but naturally the pair must be a matched set a few oil pressure gauges use two wire connections, many just a sensor and a single connection, most need a MATCHED pressure sending unit and a gauge http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM-2241 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM%2D5727&view=64&N=700+ theres a port for the sensor near the distrib and you could also install it near the oil filter in a few blocks normally a 1/8" pipe thread theres also mechanical gauges available that require a tube for oil to reach the gauge, but they tend to be a P.I.T.A. and subject to leaks

"Hint for your reaction times- Don't wait on the green light- Let the first two lights drop and wait for the third light to go, as soon as you see it light up, hammer it. Don't anticipate and go on the third bulb, you'll redlight- wait for it to light up and as soon as it does, go immediately. You should be able to cut a sub .600 (on a .500 tree) through practice." good point! everyones reaction speeds and dexterity is a bit differant, I used to wait for the last yellow on the tree to start too light then ID start letting out the clutch and depressing the throttle, from a constant 1900rpm the engine was held at,that worked very consistantly with practice ---(FOR ME!) but you need decent traction tires,and the abillity to destroy the tires if you get into depressing the engines/throttle a bit too aggressively, if thats going to launch the car consistantly

step one, adjust the tire pressure to maximize the contact between tire tread and pavement. step two learn to be consistant and watch the tach, at some rpm,level, between about 1200rpm-3500rpm, your car will launch without bogging if you bring the rpm up to that rpm and then hold it and launch...by depressing the throttle over a second or so rather than slaming it to the floor with your foot,PRACTICE, its a LEARNED SKILL

well if your that close why not stop bye for coffee and a car b.s. session?

it powers everything, in the house, and the combo mother-in-law quarters/pool house, my shop, air comditioners everything, theres about 4500 sq ft under air , a full tanks supposed to last more than two/three weeks but not expected to last a month,depends on how much stuffs drawing current , it takes up most of the 8' x 6' slab and its about 4 feet tall, about 7 feet long abour 3.5 feet wide

if your in one of the areas where hurricanes are a problem, and need a generator its a great time to add to your shop tools, they build good welders that are also good emergency generators I went thru several hurricanes with a portable back-up generator/welder like this (notice the shop welder/generator cost less than 10%) of what the wife wanted installed below... http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=K1419-5 it works great as both a shop welder and a generator, btw with the correct options you can TIG weld or ARC weld with it, its a GREAT TOOL!! but its noisy and requires you fill the 5 gallon tank and add a bit of oil every 8-9 hours,the wife loved the power but hated the noise...I was happy she was not.. my local power company had package deals available , I got the price for my generator as a special order from home depot,and it was about 22K alone, the power company wanted $35k to do a package deal,on a similar but cheaper version and a much smaller fuel tank,(I probably would have got cheaper components from them than I did picking parts individually)but I paid over $40k when I was all installed...btw its a large v6 auto engine spinning the generator Ive got a 45 K watt generator ,with aluminum housing (thats important as RUST is a big problem in florida)that cost a good bit,keep in mind the electrical hook up and permits and the cng/propane tank install,and permits filling it with 2000cf of gas and building a 8' x 6' 8" thick concrete mount pad and permits cost almost as much as the generator alone http://www.generac.com/Products/LiquidCooled/LiquidCooled.aspx that being said, its nice to have near instant reserve/replacement power durring any power loss, you can barely hear it run and it comes on within 45 seconds of the power dropping off, keep in mind IM out in the sticks and it usually took 2 weeks to get power restored and women don,t like camping out and eating bar-b-q or packaged food for every meal for two weeks thrust me I was happy with the welder/generator, Id paid $2500 for ,it was 100% the wifes idea to get a full blown near instant reserve power generator that allows everything in the house to run normally durring extended power outages...at that time I could afford it, so we figured it added to the house value and we got it to keep her happy, I don,t regret it,(keeping the wife happy) but I fully aggree that it was overly expensive

many of the current efi cars & trucks have remote mount filter boxes with large rectangular drop in pleated replacement filters that can be mounted in several locations, its a basic no brainer to carefully measure and weld up an air box to bolt over the carb and run a 3" or 3.5", 4" connector hose between the two, with some careful thought the filter housing can be located where iot has dirrect access to cool air, and your not limited to locations dirrectly adjacent to the engine. salvage yards almost give those parts away, I doubt the cost will exceed $25 for the filter housing and a few other components if your creative and can fabricate... theres more options

I think your just a bit confused, a longer intake runner in th e intake manifold, between the head and plenum,( PROVIDED the cam and compression MATCH tends to increase torque) not the intake air filter length track

ID POINT OUT that your NOT limited to the standard round air cleaners, and that this is another case where owning a decent welder, or careful shopping for less comon air cleaner designs makes the solutution very simple. the first place I generally look is here http://www.ramairbox.com/kits.html http://www.ramairbox.com/models.html http://www.knfilters.com/Racing/customcarb.htm but theres NO reason you can,t fabricate a custom air/box with a remote filter location or visit a salvage yard and get the vast majority of the parts for a remote air filter location set up from a EFI equiped car and connect it to an air/box on the carb with 4" tubeing

thanks for the kind words..... a large paper clip can be used as a rought feeler gauge on the cam lobe too connecting rod clearance .060 is about the minimum that will work consistantly

Cam Break-in Procedure • Have a high quality service manual available, such as the factory service manual, or the vehicle specific manuals published by Chiltons, Motors, or Haynes. You will need these for the basic information regarding engine disassemble and reassemble along with the torque settings for the various fasteners. • Read and understand the manual completely, along with these instructions before you begin working. We highly recommend you also have the assistance of a knowledgeable friend to assist you, especially during the initial fire-up and break-in period. In addition to the normal installation procedure, installing a performance camshaft requires you to check for several extra items to insure long life and optimum performance. • New Lifters Are A Must- There is no such thing as a good used lifter! Any flat faced lifter establishes a wear pattern almost immediately with the cam lobe it is riding on and cannot be used on any other cam lobe, let alone a different cam. Should you have a need to disassemble the engine, make sure you keep the lifters in order so they go back on to the exact same lobes. • Valve Spring Pressure and Travel- We highly recommend purchasing the matching valve springs recommended in our catalog. This insures you will have the proper pressures, both closed and open, and sufficient travel to get the maximum rpm, performance and life from your new cam. • Piston to Valve Clearance- While many performance cams will work just fine with stock pistons, there are many factors that effect your engine and the clearance available. Things such as factory tolerances, normal machine work such as head and block surfacing, aftermarket components such as cylinder heads, higher ratio rocker arms, etc. all effect your engines ability to handle a performance camshaft. • Valve Train Interference- In addition to valve spring travel and piston-to-valve clearance, a commonly overlooked area is that of retainer to seal clearance. The other common area of interference is rocker arm to stud clearance along with rocker arm travel. The best way to check these is by physically opening both a intake and an exhaust valve on each cylinder head to the gross lift of the cam plus and additional .030". It is easiest to do this by pressing down on the rocker arm with one of the many tools available. Do not simply rotate the engine to the maximum lift point for a given valve. This does not work when engines are hydraulic lifter equipped, or even allow any margin of safety when you are using a mechanical lifter cam. • Valve Adjustment- The easiest way to insure proper adjustment is to adjust the rocker arms as you install them, one cylinder at a time. Adjust the intake valve as the exhaust valve is just starting to open and adjust the exhaust valve when the intake valve is almost closed. It is simplest to do this with the intake manifold off and watching the lifter’s movement. • Hydraulic Lifter Valve Adjustment- All engines, regardless of manufacture, require correct valve adjustment. Some engines, such as Chevrolet V-8’s, are equipped with stud mounted rocker arms can easily be adjusted to compensate for changes incurred during engine assembly. Never just torque the rocker arm into place and assume that the lifter preload will automatically be correct. Various engine manufacturers use multiple length pushrods, shims, and spacers to compensate for changes in preload. Hydraulic lifters cannot compensate for all changes. Ideal lifter preload is .020" to .080". Do not attempt to fill the lifters full of oil prior to installation. They will fill automatically once started and manually filling them makes adjusting the preload a difficult task. • Mechanical Lifter Valve Adjustment- Adjusting mechanical lifters should be done the same way as outlined above, one valve at a time. For an initial setting, we recommend .003" to .005" than listed on the cam’s specification card. Once broken in and with the engine fully warmed up, re set the rocker arms to the cam’s specification sheet. • Installation Lubricants- All flat faced (non-roller) camshafts require the use of high pressure lubricant supplied with your Erson cam on the bottom of the lifters, the lobes of the cam and on the distributor drive gear. Do not use this lube on the tips of the pushrods, the sides of the lifters or on the rocker arms. Use a quality oil when installing roller tappets. BEFORE YOU TURN THE KEY • Fill All of the Engine’s Fluids- Using a minimum of a SAE API SD, SE or better fresh clean mineral based oil, fill the engine to the proper level. Do not use synthetic oil during break-in. Fill the coolant system and follow the instructions on purging air from the system. With carburetor equipped engines, fill the carburetor to insure fuel is available immediately. Make sure that the ignition timing is properly set to insure immediate starting, without excess cranking of the engine. • Pre-Lube the Engine- Using a oil pump priming tool such as those available from Mallory, spin the engine’s oil pump until you see pressure on the gauge or have oil at the rocker arms. Do not attempt to prime the engine using the starter motor! • Proper Ventilation- Make sure that you do not start the engine without good airflow. That means have the overhead garage door open and the exhaust vented to the outside. If you have any doubts about sufficient airflow to the engine, push the car out of the garage to make sure the radiator can draw in plenty of air. Having a fan to blow fresh air through the garage is a plus. • Exhaust System- If at all possible, start the car with a muffled exhaust system hooked up and operational. It makes it much easier to hear what is going on. • Resist the Urge- Take a minute before you try to start the engine for the first time and double check that you are ready to go. Don’t take any short cuts or leave parts such as fan shrouds, air cleaner, wire looms, etc. off. Clean up the are around and especially under your vehicle. Pick up your tools and wipe up the floor so you can easily spot even a minor leak. • Be Prepared- Have extra coolant or a hose handy, clean rags, tools for tightening clamps, connections, etc. just in case. They need to be in place to make sure you have an uneventful break-in of the camshaft. WHEN THE ENGINE STARTS • Have a Helper- Now is the time for a helper. They can check the coolant level, check for oil and fluid leaks, and proper operation of underhood accessories. Air pockets in the coolant system are common so make sure the recovery bottle is checked and filled as necessary. You cannot count on the temperature gauge. Temperature gauges are only accurate if the sensor is submerged in coolant and will not give an accurate reading if in an air pocket. • Do Not Idle the Engine- As soon as the engine starts, raise the rpm to 2,000 rpm. You should also constantly vary the RPM between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM for the first 20 minutes. This is the only way to insure proper lubrication during this critical period since the camshaft to lifter contact area relies almost exclusively on oil splash from the crank and connecting rods. Make sure that you run the engine for a full 20 minutes using this procedure. It will seem like forever, but it is one of the most important steps to insure long, dependable performance. Once Break-in is Complete- Drain and replace the engine oil and filter with new, fresh oil and a new filter. Recheck for any fluid leaks and check all fluid levels. If you installed a mechanical lifter style camshaft, flat faced or roller style, the valve adjustment should be rechecked at this time with the engine fully warmed up. Hydraulic lifter equipped engines should not require any readjustment. Proper maintenance is important for any vehicle. Frequent oil changes, with a new filter is one of the easiest ways to insure your vehicle will deliver the performance you want for many long happy miles. ID ADD, USE a GOOD MOLY BASE ASSEMBLY LUBE AND A HIGH ZINC CONTENT OIL AND SOME G.M. E.O.S. TO THE OIL MARVEL MYSTERY OIL is a good high detregent oil designed to aid valve train and rings ETC. cleaning, I almost always add about 10% marvel mstery oil to my engines, but if your running flat tappet lifters Id point out that many current oils are designed for roller lifter engines so Id sellect an oil thats designed for the older design with the higher zinc content, and adding a can of E.O.S. to the oil and moly assembly lube on the lifters and cam, sure won,t hurt on that first break in, if your breaking in the engine in your driveway, have a running hose and a fan handy, water running thru the radiators cooling fins and a fan blowing air helps prevent over heating, have a timing light and USE IT, check your fluid levels and watch your gauges GM’S RECOMMENDED CRATE ENGINE START-UP PROCEDURE Print this page out and check off boxes below (in the printed copy) when each step is completed. Step Box 1) Safety first! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear. Next verify that all hoses are tight and that both the radiator and radiator over flow jar/tank are full and have been filled with the proper anti-freeze and water mix. 2) Before starting your engine for the first time, add one pint of engine oil supplement ( EOS¹) to the crankcase oil and then check the oil level. Once this has been done, prime the oil system with an oil pump primer tool. Make sure number 1 cylinder is on TDC compression stroke, and install the distributor. 3) Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible. 4) When the engine first starts, verify that the engine rpm is at a safe level and that the timing is set near or at 30° before top dead center (BTDC). Run the engine speed between 1,500 and 2,500 RPM’s, varying the engine speed up and down with-in this range, to prevent overheating of the exhaust valves and the exhaust system. This should be done with no-load on the engine and for the first 30 minutes of operation. 5) After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing according to the timing specifications. Now would be a good time to check thoroughly for leaks. 6) Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary. 7) Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM. 8) Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH. 9) Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH. 10) Change the oil and filter with recommended oil (10w30SG in most cases) and filter. 11) Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM’s (below 3,800 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. 12) Change oil and filter again. 13) Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles! Note¹: EOS P/N 1052367 can be used any time during the life of the engine. Technical Note: This procedure has been corrected and improved from the original GMPP procedure by GILBERT CHEVROLET. sitting with no air other than the fan moving air thru the radiator is bound to run a bit hotter than on the road, anything under 220F is normal /expected under those conditions. I run a water hose thru the radiators cooling fins when testing under those conditions., on the street it should run fairly consistantlly in the 180F-190F range with a 180F T-stat. in many cases an ADDITIONAL TAURUS electric fan from a salvage yard can be installed on the other side of the radiator to run off a dash switch or sensor that will provide additional cooling when needed.(price varies but its usually very reasonable from salvage yards) http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=8603&d=1218835261 or 190F-210F is ABOUT NORMAL,for driving temps, and nothing to worry about, adding a seperately mounted TRANSMISSION COOLER if you have an auto trans is usually worth a 10-15 degree drop in the coolant temp,MINIMUM, if the current trans fluids cooled in the lower radiator, adding an 8 qt baffled oil pan is usually good for an additional 7F-10F degrees reduction in oil temp alone A great deal of the heat is transfered to the oil and trans fluids long before the radiator and coolant sees it,routing the hot trans fluid to an aux cooler and adding a high capacity oil pan significantly reduces the heat the radiator needs to transfer from the coolant to the air flow thru it. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D12318&N=700+400006+115&autoview=sku

BTW, its a known fact you need (4) 6 point and (4) 12 point sockets in BOTH 3/8"drive and 1/2" drive in BOTH standard and deep versions for every size of every bolt, both metric and SAE and every nut on any car you own just to BEGIN working on them,and altho wrenches and ratchets are a bit harder to loose youll need a good sekllection of those also, because at least 1/3rd of those sockets/wrenches,etc. will have rolled under the car, under a work bench or will either brake or get misplaced durring EVERY project! remember EVERY PROJECT TAKES LONGER AND COSTS MORE THAN YOU THINK IT WILL.....GET USED TO THE FACT AND COMPENSATE FOR IT!,EXPECT IT! once the car runs do an inventory of the tools and buy new ones to replace the ones you throw accross the shop, lost, welded accidently, broke or dropped into non-accessable holes in the car, or lost under the benches and behind machinery in the shop, after awhile you understand the necessity of stopping by SEARs, or MAC ,or SNAPON, regularly, and just figure its a NORMAL part of the procedure, as necessary as band-aids,asprin,a pad and pen and beer ,a few soft cuss words and paper towels are to any car project

several guys have posted pictures of the DD-2000 results they get (LIKE ABOVE) and Im not all that computer savy, so I need DETAILED STEP BY STEP instruction on how to post a DD-2000 screen from my computer to post it so I can link/or display similar results from my DD-2000 and ENGINE ANALYZER PRO and similar engine software dyno results......HELP!

guys! Ive YET to have a single stud or bolt leak! its simple! run a tap thru the threads, test screw the clean/dry stud by hand to verify no clearance or binding then ,clean them and dry the threads on the block and studs,before you start the assembly, and just dip the total threaded surface on the lower studs course thread end of the stud that screws into the block into the correct sealant. spin it in your fingers slowly as you move the stud to the hole in the block to keep from dripping sealant on the deck, thread it into the block full depth , back it out a 1/2 turn and let it set up for a few minutes before assembling the head gaskets and heads,but assemble the heads while the sealants still fresh/liquid, torque too spec and let the engine set for a few hours (preferably over night) http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyID=386 the stuff works far more relieably than most thread pastes or thread sealants, it cleans ,off fingers with a scotchbrite pad and gas or alcohol,....provided you have not let it set up on your skin very long, once its started too dry ...good luck YES it works on BOLTS ALSO OLD POST COVERS THAT INFO I can,t believe the stuff I see at times..in the car mags that are SUPPOSED to be articles composed by guys who know what they are doing!!!!!!! I picked up a copy of one of the more comon, chevy based magazines and theres PICTURES of a guy dipping head bolts in yellow weather strip adhesive to be used as a thread sealant on the bolt threads (its not designed to come in direct contact with oil and/or high heat coolant),and its not going to give the correct tq readings either, and on the next page the guys gooping, GOBS of clear silicone like youll use to seal aquariums or bathroom fixtures 1/4 thick on/around the intake manifold ports, NEITHER SEALANT is DESIGNED FOR or is LIKELY to perform correctly IN EITHER APPLICATION, and WHERE does this guy think all that excess silicone will go once the intakes torqued down???? theres only two high probabilitys, it will flow into the port where it will eventually harden and get sucked into the cylinders or it may hang there causing a restriction in the port, or if it flows down, it gets into the lifter gallery where its eventually going to get into the oil pump pick up screen, restricting or blocking oil flow i would not let these guys fix a flat tire let alone work on MY ENGINES all I can do is shake my head and wonder who if ANYONE screens these articles always use the manufacturers suggested installation instructions, as some applications or gasket types REQUIRE differant lubes or sealants but heres a rought guide head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69 or this http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=2&familyid=384 (NOT QUITE AS GOOD BUT STILL OK) then insert and tq heads in place head gaskets #3 main bolts #2 rod bolts #2 oil pump stud and nut #4 oil pan bolts #5 oil pan gasket #6 cam spocket bolts #4 timing cover gasket #6 timing cover bolts #1 intake bolts #1 intake gasket #6 thermostat housing bolts #5 thermostat housing gasket (also do you really need it) usually yes #6 Exhaust manifold/header bolts #1 Exhaust manifold/header gaskets #3 Water pump bolts #5 water pump gaskets #6 fuel pump #6 crank/damper bolt #1 Torque converter bolts #4 flywheel/flexplate bolts #4 bellhousing bolts #2 1 antiseize 2 oil or ARP thread lube 3 copper coat spray gasket sealer or apply dry in some cases (see manufactures suggestions) 4 loctite (red or blue depends on application ,read the lables) 5 http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69 6 black high temp RTV use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi this might come in handy (above)