grumpyvette

yeah they probably get laid more frequently, but most of those guys (and I know several very well) are borderline crazy and have problems relating to anything thats not cheap available and quickly disposable, and think money solves all problems and people can all be bought/discarded

Im not sure what YOUR asking? most of those systems have two cylinders feed a (Y) then a single exhaust with no (H) or (X) just a single small muffler like a glass pack on each of the 4 individual runs

any woman that looks ONLY for you potential check book ballance,the guy has, vs the CHARACTER and MORALS of the guy they date is BOUND to be in for a far higher percentage of problems,why do you think most of those guys have several divorces, if things don,t work out, the gals looking to get all she can, and on too the next potential checking ballance

"How much do you know about "dual/dual" exhaust systems? By this I mean runing four separate pipes all the way to the back... only two cylinders per pipe. Any good designs available for "big cube" SBC's and/or BBC's?" Ive only messed with that a few times, mostly on T-buckets, but in most cases it sounded good but didn,t produce the same potential power and it tended to make the tq curve very peaky

this (above) requires this (below) from the header collectors

I know several guys with filthy stinking rich parents that bought thier kids CORVETTES , BEEMERS,ETC. most of them can,t and couldn,t be bothered to change a spark plug , you guys that build your own performance cars are so much smarter and motivated and generally better off, in every way,. Id much rather talk to guys like myself that worked for every last thing they ever accomplished. those guys are generally jerks and except for the monetary, level that thier parents provide, they are useless slugs draging down society. frankly thats I big reason in my opinion that the #$$%%^^^& seem to run things, thier families provided the cash/back-up, and they don,t even need to have any drive or smarts to get a great carreer start.

THE (X) BY FAR is more effective, the (H) may equalize the pressure to a great extent but the (X) blends and exqualizes the flow, http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm whats the differance? lets say for the example the exhaust pulse is a quart to water moving at several hundred feet per second, but unlike water it can be compressed,since the exhaust pipe inside dia. is set the length of the pulse or slug of exhaust exiting the engine every 90 degrees of rotation (v8) has inertia/energy/mass, if it passes a right angle low pressure exit point, at first it flows into both routes but as the mass passes the opening a slight negetive pressure forms and it reverses and the flow changes, put a vacuume gauge on the (h) and it vibrates, wildly. install an (X) and the flow from both sources is FORCED to BLEND, line up, equalize and BOTH sections of the up stream flow benefit from the as each inertia/energy/mass, and slight negetive pressure that forms, but its far more equalized. put another way if one side was pumping out dark green water and one side was pumping clear, an (H) would have dark green exiting one side and light green exiting the other, an (X) would have both sides an equal, slightly lighter green flow .now at low rpms , or with a smaller than ideal pipe dia. thats no big deal, but at high rpms, BOTH the SCAVAGING of the cylinders your trying to inhances and the reduction of the restriction to flow tends to be better with the (X) put a vacuume gauge on the (X) and it vibrates. but not to nearly the same extent, and the changes in pressure reading remain more consistant DON,T be thinking that either is a mandatory huge improvement, it may or may not help the power, the degree of restriction, displacement, compression ratio, cam timing and the efficiency of the headers has a good deal to do with your results, and sticking restrictive mufflers on past the (X) or (H) can effectively kill most of the potential benefits a second (H) behind an (X)goes a long way to destroy resonance

that sure looks impressive, but... and I could be wrong here, IT appears thats not a posi rear diff??? IT appears only one rear tires fully engaged? Im sure youll have a whole lot more fun once that rears full positraction, allowing both wheels full power

you forgot well written instuctions used to wipe up spilled solvents, or for cleaning oil soaked arms/& hands, only then, do you try to read them ,only after realizing the parts you just purchased won,t go together the way you expected plastic ramps you place one in front of each wheel then jump into the car and accellerate a few feet, one ramp skids away, the other stays exactly where its design untill the car goes up and over dropping off the front edge, wedging itself between your frame and oil pan, breaking off oil filter,thus making it nearly impossiable to use a floor jack to remove it due to clearance issues micrometer small easily broken C-clamp for drill press welders goggles placed on forehead to increase the sweat running into your eyes, pulled down over eyes only after everything in the shop has a brigth blue white hallo image from flashing your eyes with arc welder, pulled up again to increase sweat while trying to see object to be welded, repeated frequently oil drain pan device designed to prove beyond any doubt that the average mechanic is clueless about where oil will run if a oil pan drain plug or filter is removed, generally about 1/4" taller than space under car and 1/8" smaller in dia.than the tangent arc the draining oil stream makes in its path to the floor

"I'm done, not trying to start trouble with the king." not in the least! enjoy the discusions and differant points of view, were all equals here!

look this whole thread is basically based on the fact that 90% plus of the guys do it the way you guys that do alittle at a time as the budget allows, describe (add a bit at a time,as you can afford it, learn as you stumble thru) and WASTE a HUGE amount of money in the process, IM not saying thats wrong! Im just pointing out that SMARTER APPROACH,is thru doing alot of research,planing and thinking BEFORE spending money, that will result in far less expence and a better final product, THE real secret here is to LEARN while HELPING & WORKING ON EVERYONE ELSEs car, WATCHING THE MORE EXPERIANCED GUYS, and LEARNING THRU THIER MISTAKES AT THIER EXPENCE, then building a killer combo from what youve learned while helping a whole lot of other guys while you & they, LEARN what works and whats wasted effort. I take a good deal of time here, HOPEING to bring you guys up to speed, and learning from the more experianced guys while IM HERE, so take advantage of the mistakes and what I and the other more experianced guys have learned the hard expensive way......theres lots of guys that know more than I do and a whole lot that know less, but as a group we can do a far better job than any one guy could hope to do! remember when you were 2 years old and mom said don,t stick bobby pins in the ellectric outlets.....there was a reason then, and theres a reason for what Im saying too!

http://www.ag.auburn.edu/users/gparmer/articles/flowbench2/ http://tractorsport.com/flowbenchparts.htm http://www.performancetrends.com/ez_flow_system.htm http://www.4cycle.com/karting/html/flow_bench.html this will get you started, (ideas) allready have a coke machine and a refridge out there,but no plans for a kitchen

"The trick is to have no dreams. Then you can't be disappointed and won't waste your money" if youve got no dreams they might as well bury your butt now, cause your 90% dead

[color:red] heres where I went temporarily,off track on my BBC corvette project, [/color]I only did it because I knew ID get back every cent if I sell the place later and IVE always wanted a decent place to work on my cars/engines vs a cramped 2 car garage well finally got the stucco the lift the bathroom installed in my new garage so Im advancing slowly

Personally Id build my own version with ALOT larger, wider,longer/wider, base,(on casters) and a sliding adjustable/swapable, engine mount, radiator and seperate electic water pump and fan, better tach, a/f ratio gauge,engine temp,oil pressure exhaust temp gauges, starter/bell housing adapter,ETC. and Im reasonably sure I could do it for a similar total cost damn, I see ANOTHER PROJECT in my future, to go with the flow bench and REAR WHEEL DYNO, that Im already planning on..................ever notice you never get to the point your sitting in a complete garage??? its like being a sultan and having 300 wifes....theres ALWAYS something you know you can get but youll still think of MORE,BETTER ETC. this hobby could get out of control if youll let it!

hamlet8900 LOVE the GAL in the AVATAR, wish I has a much larger and clearer photo! as to ho much power you need, Id say once your running in the high 11s to very low 12s theres not much need for more than that IN A 90% STREET DRIVEN CAR keep in mind POWER TO WEIGHT RATIO, a light enough car could do that easily with 375hp, but a land yatch will need a good deal more power

because they realize that all the time and work and money resulted in a car THAT was and never will be EXACTLY what they envisioned or wanted.... you wanted a 632 BBC powered chevelle and theres a 496bbc powered car in the garage and your subconcious mind, says get that %$%^^& out of here I failed to reach my goal,and don,t want to be reminded of it! you can,t cheat the guy you see while shaving in your mirror in the morning and expect to be happy, once you set a goal, acheive anything less and youll be less than satisfied with the results YOUR FAMILY comes FIRST but that doesn,t mean you can,t have toys or projects, your entitled too (some sanity and entertainment, stress relief) set aside a small amount you can afford, for your project in a seperate account or coffee can in the garage,EVERY WEEK, THATS THE SECRET,HAVE a set goal, a parts list, supliers and costs and check off each component as you get it! and build your car! consider that $10, or $50 you can easily afford each week as previously SPENT before you get crazy. your project will eventually get built, look Im retired and have been doing the current accumulation of parts and research,on my BBC corvette swap for over 4 years now, IT will get done! but Im on a budget on a pension, ant good things take time, (getting side tracked on my dream garage project ,didn,t help either)but, hey Im human, I make less than ideal moves too!, but the garage was built KNOWING that ID get back MORE than every dime I spent if I ever sell the property

very true....but most guys won,t take the time and effort...some guys don,t have the welding skills....but some guys might buy one already built

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11195681&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&N=4015373&Mo=14&pos=0&No=1&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=50829&Ns=P_Price

we all are forced to work with a realistic budget, but at times I see guys plan and sellect parts not so much for the ideal, or to build what they really want but so that they can speed up the process or get SOMETHING RUNNING.........now theres always something to be said for having a running car vs a bunch of parts cluttering up the garage for a few years, but WHAT WILL YOU ACCOMPLISH if you BUILD SOMETHING YOUR NOT PROUD TO OWN??? example lets say what you really want TO INSTALL, BUY OR to build a IS killer big block engine for your car, your NOT really satisfied with a 500hp crate engine, you want some bragging rights, AND AT least A 540-572 DISPLACEMENT AND 650-750HP! http://www.theengineshop.com/prods_pages/108000.htm http://ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html http://www.shafiroff.com/sportsman/540_810.asp a quick look shows your in the $10,000 range so you start thinking, I know where I can find a 454 4 bolt block for $500, Ill build a 496 stroker.... Ok lets look at that, keep in mind you want no less than 600HP block $500 rotating assembly, damper flywheel,clutch, bell houseing $2000-$3000 brodix or AFR heads, valve covers, port work, $2500-$3100 hydrolic roller cam & hydrolic roller lifters,pushrods, rockers ETC, $1200-$1800 oil system $350-$600 intake , port work,$300 machine work ballancing gaskets etc, $1200 carb, $400-$970 hell, it won,t take much to be at $8600-$11,000 so it quickly becomes obvious that you saving a bunch building a 496 vs BUYING a 540bbc is pretty much wasted effort! what IM getting at here is that PLANING your goals and the path to reach them takes some thought and research, and one of the worst things you can do jump into it with a few parts and start building and spending your hard earned cash without thinking it thru carefully keep in mind a small block may cost slightly less but everything still applies I know so many guys with $10,000-$15,000 invested in 468-496bbc engines, engines that won,t come NEAR being what they could have built or bought if they had PLANNED it carefully price it out yourself... http://www.flatlanderracing.com/home.html http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/TopCategoriesDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002 http://www.summitracing.com/ http://www.dirttrackthunder.com/ http://www.dougherbert.com/

well? what progress has been made?? got its tuning sorted out?

its NOT that hard, get a old spark plug and break the porcilin out, then silver solder a brass tube to the area the porcilin used to occupy,so that air or fluid freely flows thru it. attach a rubber tube about 6 ft long and place a brass fitting in the loose end of the tube so it stays in the bottom of any container you drop it into and then remove the rockers from cylinder #1 , rotate it to TDC,, place the rubber tube in a 2 qt bottle of trans fluid and turn the engine over slowly, BY HAND NOT WITH THE STARTER, it will blow air into the fluid then suck trans fluid into the cylinder, after several rotations the air will be out, and youll be sucking and pumping trans fluid only, once thats done, put the tube in a 2000cc buret, http://www.novatech-usa.com/s.nl/it.A/id.3597/.f rotate the engine to tdc,measure the fluid level, rotate to BDC measure again, the differance is ROUGHTLY the CYLINDER VOLUME 350= 714cc 383= 781cc once thats done turn the engine to tdc, most of the oil will flow into the buret,remove the pulg adapter and leave the plug threads clear open , hit the stater, spin the engine, it will be very noisy and spray some oil for a few dozen revolutions, once it stops spraying oil, replace the rockers, adjust the rockers and start the engine WITHOUT the #1 plug in place, after it runs for about 1 minute, stop and install the spark plug and ignition wire on the #1 cylinder, yeah it will smoke badly for a minute but no harms done

http://www.htpweld.com/products/plasma_cutters/index.htm Ive only used the MicroCut 625 my friend purchased, once for a few minutes but it was my impression it was a very good tool, but it sure cost a lot more than that! why not call (1-800-872-9353).

FIRST ...THINK THRU EVERY DETAIL BEFORE SPENDING MONEY, HAVE A DETAILED PLAN AND EXACT PARTS LIST WITH COST AND SOURCES LISTED BEFORE YOU START you might also want to consider a BIG BLOCK CHEVY with no supercharger or with a supercharger as it will more than likely produce similar , or far more hp at less cost and potential problems since this is a RACE CAR theres zero reason to hold back, youll be required to run a full roll cage, and a non-IRS rear if your building a SERIOUS CAR,simply because some tracks won,t allow IRS on cars running faster than 10 seconds,and as clearances, set back, ETC. are no issues, keep in mind it needs to meet track requirements or it won,t be allowed to race http://ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/ http://www.nhra.com/ up till now IVE been using MOSTLY THESE GUYS for parts http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html http://www.dougherbert.com/ http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.as..._Track_Thunder http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...atalogId=10002 http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/ http://www.kenlowe.com.au/KLRC_Chev_BBC.htm http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/ http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/specials.cfm http://www.racepartsdirect.com/shop....acturers_id=11 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/default.aspx http://www.summitracing.com/ http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/brand...000&CtgID=9043

seven words USE A STRETCH GAUGE and ARP BOLTS http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D100%2D9942&N=700+310053+115&autoview=sku or at a MINIMUM, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY,at least tighten then loosen and re-tighten to spec EACH BOLT ,THREE SEPERATE TIMES with a QUALITY torque wrench great http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/prodid.51600/TID./qx/product.htm ok http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/prodid.10452/TID./qx/product.htm http://www.hotrodshack.com/torque_settings.htm http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechTorque.html