grumpyvette

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D36%2D181&N=700+300702+115&autoview=sku (buy two sets) http://www.racingsecrets.com/article_racing-13.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/temp_data/carbtune.html http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html

I see rods and rod bolt failures blamed frequently when engines self destruct at high rpms, but its NOT always what it at first might appear to be....are there any detailed pictures of the rods or rod bolts that failed??? in many cases the source of the problem can be seen with a careful detailed exam, if you don,t know the SOURCE of the problem your doomed to repeat the sequence... and keep in mind a good deal of what might appear to be rod/rodbolt failures, are ACTUALLY the result of over reving the valve train,and loss of valve train control, OR detonation, theres no way to compress a bent valve or broken piston ring land without potentially damaging the rods http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T4_WhyPages/T4_01_Why0.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T4_WhyPages/T4_01_Why1.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T4_WhyPages/T4_01_Why2.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T4_WhyPages/T4_01_Why3.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T4_WhyPages/T4_01_Why4.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T4_WhyPages/T4_01_Why5.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/T4_WhyPages/T4_01_Why6.html

GOOD LUCK!! I had ESTIMATES from $49,000-195,000 on my garage, I went first class on components and it cost me $140,000, PLUS to build a 36F deep,74f wide 16F tall garage and I did ALL the electric myself. estimates and true costs vary wildly especially if you want everything done correctly vs dirt cheap

?????? any more progress? test drive impressions? etc.??

I guy I know comes over and ask me to adjust his fan belt as it kept comming loose, I looked it over and everything looked ok, ...at first,.. I ask him to rev the engine a few times,the belt came flying loose, we put it back on, and were about to test it again when I notice the damper seems to be spinning eratically, a little checking revealed the elastic in the damper was 90% shreaded and under rpm load the lower crank pully was moving in and out about 1/4" and the belt would come loose as soon as the rpms built up. I suggested he buy a new damper and called the local dealer, price was just under $200 and the guy freaked out, he left, drove home and put the car on a ramp and squirted tons of that yellow weather strip adheasive into the area the damper elastic used to occupy, about two days later this idiot gets into a drag race and when he hit second gear the outer damper ring and pully came off completely and destroyed the water pump radiator and HOOD as it flailed around when the whole damper came off the crank nose as the retaining bolt had worked out. I could have predicted the problem would eventually occure..with at least some certainty, he BEAT the damper onto the crank with a 4LB hammer several times in the last few years, doing cam swaps and when I suggested he use the correct tool to seat the damper, he informed me that tightening the retaining bolt and wacking the living #$%^&* out of the damper a few times retighten,(repeat/frequenly as necessary) worked perfectly so spending $28-$40 on a special tool was not necessary BTW for those guys not so hard headed http://www.tavia.com/cat12.html#1

Bearings and oil flow http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html http://data.melling.com/Select/small_block_chevy.php http://data.melling.com/Select/big_block_chevy.php http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/crankinstall.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://data.melling.com/TECH.php http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb110127.htm http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html#engine http://www.fastnuf.com/bbccastingnumbers.html http://www.mortec.com/bbc.htm

CONTRACTORS not materials are your major problem,finding quality contractors with referances that check out takes time and effort and even then its not fool proof, and contractors bye nature want to get things done fast and at minimal cost to them. I had 7 bids on my garage , most ran in the $97,000-$145,000 range, then I started asking questions and demanding they use certain minimal specs on concrete, trusses,rebar,ETC.ETC,prices shot up to over $200,k I decided to sub- contract every last facet of the garages construction,SO I COULD CONTROL WHAT WENT INTO THE GARAGE, it was a HUGE P.I.T.A. but the garage I built FAR exceeds minimal inspection standards,and everythings done useing top quality components, trust me the differance between crap and just passing inspection and doing it correctly costs noticably more but its not a huge differance in materials example, at the time I built my garage 2400psi concrete cost $ 97 a yards 4000psi concrete cost $107 a yard 2x4 trusses cost $5700 2x8 trusses cost $6900 crap 20 year garuantee shingles cost $56 a sq lifetime/50 year garauntee shingles cost $78 a sq on 37 sqs thats about $1000, insignificant compared to knowing its done correctly in the cost of a $140,000 garage theres a lot more examples but the basic botom line is for about 20%-35% more you can have a FAR better and stronger structure, and LABOR is the huge money drain, I got estimates of $23,000 for minimal electical work, I FAR EXCEEDED that and did the work myself, used far better materials and spent $8700 on electric work that would easily have cost me at least $40k bye the electrical inspectors estimate and I far exceeded specs and past on the second inspection,(I would have past on the first try but the inspector didn,t like multiple ground rods the way ID installed them) he agreed they far exceeded specs but wanted ONE, then after inspection told me he had never seen anyone take so much time and effort to do everything to well past spec. he forgets IT MY SHOP!! and I HAVE TO USE IT!! BTW get the required specs, study them, ask the inspectors questions and get a good understanding of whats going on, example the first draft on my building plan had about 400 ft of #5 rebar,and a 3" thick slab, after talking to the architech and inspectors I had that changed to well in excess of 3000 ft of #7 rebar, I changed that to 6" minimal and 8" of 3500psi minimum under the whole lift side in the garage,concrete cost of the slabs rebar more than trippled but were only talking $3000-$3500 at the time in the rebar, and its MUCH STRONGER, the inspectors joked I was building a bank vault not a garage

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/35/ DOUG FLYNN is HOLLEYS engineer in the EFI department, post your questions here on the site above (LINK ABOVE) honestly the EFI is the better system and learning HOW to adjust and tune it IS THE SMARTER ROUTE heres the base maps/ basic info http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Fuel%20Injection%20Tech%20Info.pdf heres tech supports # Monday through Friday, 8AM to 5PM CST @ 270 781-9741. yeah I keep a few carb intakes and carbs around for testing but theres no way a carb can match the a/f ratio control a good MPFI system provides

I build mostly BBC engines but this also applies to SBC connecting rod sellection, I was asked if stock rods were ok or should they swap to better ARP bolts or BUY the BETTER RODS WITH THE UPGRADED BOLTS look most stock chevy connecting rods are rated at no more than 6000rpm and 450-500hp now I may be in the small minority here, but I have always given away 3/8" bolt sbc or bbc rods rather than use them and purchased the 7/16" versions or aftermarket 7/16" cap screw rods, WITH the L19 bolt upgrade,the 7/16" rods ARE significantly stronger. rod bolts are critical, high stress items and one of the areas most likely to cause problems at high rpms and loads. cross sectional area of a 3/8" bolt is approx .11 sq inches, a 7/16" bolt is aprox .15 sq inchs use those good L19 bolts and assuming you sellected the good L19 bolts that test at 220,000 psi, for each the differance is 24.2 thousand lbs vs 33 thousand lbs or a 36% increase in strength, but the stock rod bolts are 160,000 psi so your really swapping from about 17.6 thousand to 33 thousand in strength or an 88% stronger rod bolt http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechWhy.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/Tech.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechMetals.html reasonable quality connecting rods are CHEAP http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=3150 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=8817 keep in mind if a rod comes loose at high rpms youll be LUCKY to save the intake, heads, blocks and cam are frequently damaged, spending an extra $90 for the better rod bolts is a total no brainer, in my opinion, if spending an extra $400-500 on rods and $90 on better bolts prevents rod failures, thats a minor consideration, when you may be spending $5500-$12,000 plus on an engine build. you might also want to be aware that over reving and floating the valves, and useing a poorly designed oil system is a major potential source of engine failures

Have to play with the jetting, has a hesitation in the "blip". richen up and prolong the carbs accellrator pump shot and then check the plug color & (gap at about .043) (slightly rich and dry plugs)and a/f 12.6-12.8) ratio to see if the jets need changing, then VERIFY the IGNITION CURVE and TOTAL TIMING, ID stay under 38 degrees for now Checked the piston to valve clearance and have at least .120. thats good if you checked both the intake and exhaust How much time should I put on it before re-adjust the lash? nows good!,... get it correctly tuned and take it out for first impressions test drive and shakedown , run it up to 5500rpm a few times under hard accelleration,then change the oil and filter Sounds good right now. time to play,test,tune,adjust

well? any progress??

having worked for about 16 months at a chevy dealership, and 39 years plus building race engines in my own small business, MY advice would be to get back into school as an automotive systems COMPUTER & SOFTWARE TECHNICIAN. take buisiness management and accounting classes, develope sales skills YOULL NEVER make a decent wage as a line mechanic , as a hobby its fine but youll never make great money as a guy turning wrenchs look the truth here is that you get PAID in EXACTLY the relation to how hard you are to replace with someone else, the more you know and the greater your skill set the higher your pay will be simply because its DIFFICULT to replace you. doctors , skilled technitions and good salesmen are hard to find because it takes time and effort to train them and experiance to hone the skills it takes ALOT less time to train someone to assemble and disassemble car components than it does to train a tech.to CORRECTLY use advanced computerized diagnostic equipment, then save a high percentage of your money, make alot of industry contacts/connections and develope skills, as soon as you can OPEN your own shop, higher a few young HONEST techs and you can make an excellent living in a custom shop, building and tunning performance cars if thats your goal, but youll never make good bucks working for a dealership you only get paid to the level where you can be easily replaced, if you own and run the shop, you take a big finacial risk but if you do it correctly and develope a reputation for honest skilled work at a fair price your finacial rewards are only limited by your abiility to sell the skill set and marketing and the number of sites that you set up to do that work. look as a mechanic you might make $25 an hour, as a business owner you could easily make many times that amount

"but what does it mean if you oil pressure doesn't change and stays constant at 15psi when the engine is rev'd up to 4,000 from idlewith no load on the engine? normal?" NO!....THAT would indicate a PROBLEM!!!! http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm the general rule would be a MINIMUM of 10PSI per 1000rpm and that should hold true untill the bye-pass circuit in the pump activates at between 60psi-70psi, but oil pressure higher is no real concern up untill the 90psi range. in most cases its the oil pump pick up that moves that causes many problems, IT MUST stay in the 3/8"-1/2" range and BRAZENING the oil pump pick up to the pump body after carefully verifying the correct clearance with clay between the pick-up and oil pan floor is strongly advised, but be aware that the bye-pass spring needs to be removed durring the brazeing to prevent anealing NOW I POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT IT NEEDs REPEATING ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. keep this in mind, good oil flow volume across the bearing surfaces to cool and luberacate them and to provide a boundry layer between the metal surfaces is more important than the pressure reached at all rpms. since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point,that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate increases faster as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change but the bleed off rate does that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better.chevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (hell no! at that level the stock pump works fine) above that level the extra oil will definitely helppossiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc or bbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-800hp and 6000-8000 rpm.nore did they forsee valvesprings that placed sometimes as much as 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the original design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either , the stock pump works but was never designed for the loads and rpms that a modern engine hotrodded to over 450hp sees the standard volume pump gears are about 1.2" long the high volume pump gears are about 1.5 inches long (depends on manufacturer) heres the discriptions right from chevy 12555884 SBC Oil Pump, High Pressure Z28/LT1. Production high-pressure oil pump with 1.20" gears.Will produce 60-70 psi oil pressure. Does not include screen. The pickup tube dia. is 5/8" for this pump. 62.17 14044872 SBC Oil Pump, High-Volume. This high-volume pump has1.50" long gears.It has approximately 25% more capacity than a production pump at standard pressure. Does not include screen. and yes I comonly build small blocks useing bbc oil pumps like the ls7 pump, it has 1.3" gears but they are bigger in dia. and have 12 not 7 teethlike the small block pumps (many standard sbc pickups use 5/8" dia. pickups) (the ls7 pump is best used on 8qt-9qt road racing oilpans as the larger 3/4" pickup flows lots of oil for extreme high rpm engines with a multi baffled pan useing windage screens, scrappers and cut outs for extreme (G) loads where a dry sump can,t be used or cost makes you stick to a wet sump pan. these LS7 pumps dont fit most sbc oil pans so your stuck using the high volume sbc oil pump if your not using a true racing 8-9 qt style oil pan in some cases I have done that for years whenever the oil pan clearances would allow the use of a standard voluum big block oil pump, the advantages of 12 tooth gears (over the standard 7 tooth gears in a sbc pump) for smoother running and the 3/4" inlet pickup size (over the common 5/8" sbc size)the slightly higher voluum of oil that builds pressure faster and the stronger pump design are benefits. (not huge but I use every thing I can get that returns a resonable return in performance for the money spent) #21-210 SBC with BBC (5 bolt) oil pump conversion oil pump Drive Shaft. http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/oil_pumps/acc.html don,t forget to braze the pickup onto the oil pump or use the bolt on style pickup AND THE USE OF A WINDAGE SCREEN AND A BAFFLED OIL PAN to control oil flow THAT HAS A 6QT MINIMUM voluum is a great IDEA once its correctly possitioned ,remove the bye pass spring and gears from the oil pump,and have the pick-up brazeD or welded to the pump body, then after it SLOWLY AIR cools (DON,T DROP IT IN WATER LET IT AIR COOL)replace the byepass spring and gears, lube the pump,with assembly lube on the gears, check the clearances, check clearances again! and install! just be damn sure its brazed or welded in the correct location as that 3/8"-1/2" is critical to good oil voluum feeding the pick-up http://users.erols.com/jyavins/solder.htm http://www.tinmantech.com/html/faq_brazing_versus_soldering.html http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm silver soldering is basically lower temp brazeing , the soldering metal flows over the surface and into micro cracks in the surace of the other metal forming a almost unremoveable bond to the other metals surface it allows you to stick iron to steel or brass to steel, it works more or less like normal solder does on copper but at higher temps and has a much stronger grip in addition too working on iron and steel I vastly prefer the 5 BOLT BBC style pumps with the 12 tooth gears and thier larger 3/4" pick-up VS the small 4 bolt pumps with thier 5/8" pick-ups and 7 tooth gears. the oil flow is both higher pressure at low rpms and smoother in pulse presure spread,no! you don,t need it on a non-race combo, or even on some race combos but its nice to have and I willingly will loose a few hp pumping oil for better engine lubracation

and? are you setting the bearing clearances to the stock dimensions? are you useing standard or high volume oil pumps? are you setting the oil pump pick-up to between 3/8" and 1/2" from the pan floor and BRAZING the oil pump pick-up to the pump,so it stays in that clearance range? what else can you tell us? and keep in mind ,naturally a 4-5 qt oil pan is going to have more potential for problems than a 6-7 qt oil pan ideally you want about 20-25 psi at idle but Ive seen no damage as long as the idle psi stays at 15 psi or higher, now PRESSURE is a MEASURE of RESISTANCE to flow so if you want to increase that resistance in a larger clearance application , swapping to a thicker/higher viscosity will boost the pressure reading....but it may not be a good idea as the oil flow reaching the parts may be delayed. now the other approach is to install a high volume oil pump, since it pumps abouy 10%-25% more oil (depends on part# used) that will accomplish exactly the same result,(higher readings on the gauge) and faster oil flow, but generally you want to run a deep or wide baffled high capacity oil pan and a windage scrteen when a high volume pump is used. face facts, larger clearances require more oil volume/flow why not talk to these guys Melling Engine Parts 2620 Saradan Dr PO Box 1188 Jackson, MI 49204 USA Customer Service: 517-787-8172 ext: 125 Fax: 517-787-5304 technical@melling.com

LOOKS GOOD! BUT,whats the piston to valve clearance on both the exhaust and intake valves? YOU did check ALL the clearances...AND VALVE TRAIN GEOMETRY ,DIDN,T YOU??? Id really hate to see you go to the work and expence and get screwed by forgetting too check everything before starting it up! its 90% in checking and verifying & correcting all the details, durring the assembly that results in a decent engine and less than 10% in getting it done fast

ideally you want about 25 psi at idle but Ive seen no damage as long as the idle psi stays at 15 psi or higher, now PRESSURE is a MEASURE of RESISTANCE to flow so if you want to increase that resistance in a larger clearance application , swapping to a thicker/higher viscosity will boost the pressure reading....but it may not be a good idea as the oil flow reaching the parts may be delayed. now the other approach is to install a high volume oil pump, since it pumps abouy 10%-25% more oil (depends on part# used) that will accomplish exactly the same result,(higher readings on the gauge) and faster oil flow, but generally you want to run a deep or wide baffled high capacity oil pan and a windage scrteen when a high volume pump is used. face facts, larger clearances require more oil volume/flow

the .12 are ok....but why not use a .15-.20, they are common and you may as well take full advantage KENDALL AND VALVOLINE ARE BOTH EASY TO LOCATE AT MOST MAJOR AUTO STORES

zDDP= Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate = ZINC .....FOR SHORT in oil http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dialkyl_dithio_phosphate http://www.maintenanceresources.com/ReferenceLibrary/OilAnalysis/oa-m.htm

any quality HI ZINC CONTENT 10w30 or 30w zinc is the main hi pressure lubricant in the oil that MATTERS to you durring the break in that VARIES to a large extent between brands again look thru the chart http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html and adding MOLY assembly lube and G.M. EOS (ENGINE OIL SUPLIMENT) is a very good idea

Id use the mineral base oil for breaking in the cam, theres no real down side to continued use of the oil if filter and oil changes are fairly frequent , provided the engine oil temps are kept below 250F and yeah ID use the 10w30 or strait 30w with no real prefferance durring the cam break in. the advantage synthetic oil has is both a longer use life and higher temp tollerance, mineral base oils tend to start breaking down after about 250F, most synthetics are vfine to at least 300F, you really should change mineral base oils before 5000 miles, synthetics can easily go 3000-4000, swap the filter and go an additional 3000-4000 before changing out BOTH the filter and oil one mistake guys make is running oil too cool, it needs to reach 215F to burn off moisture. its a flat out proven FACT that oil temps in an engine that fail to at least slightly EXCEED 215 F durring engine operation for several minutes tend to hold moisture and create ACIDS from the combustion bye-products trapped in the oil mixed with that moisture, those acids can and do cause problems if the engine sits without running for awhile. then theres the fact that widely varing engine temps. tend to make tunning more difficult also., if your engines temp swings from 160F-235F theres no way the engines going to run as smooth and efficiently as one that tends to stay in a far more limited range of lets assume 190F-210F on the coolant like MY corvettes been designed to do .the fans come on at 210F and I run a 195F t-stat short answer, Id sellect the 180F or 190F or even a 195F as a far more reasonable choice than the 160F T-stat and Id sure pay more attention to keeping the average OIL temp in the 215F-245F range than the COOLANT TEMP! under 180F this might answer a few questions http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ http://data.melling.com/TECH.php

if you add the moly assembly lube and the E.O.S. the mineral base oil used becomes less critical, but Id sellect the VALVOLINE RACING OIL as its high in zinc..you might find the chart on this site useful http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

the coolant in the datsun radiator with a water hose turned on full,running water over the outside surface of the cooling fins will absorb and remove more than enought heat to break in the engine correctly PROVIDED the ignition timing is correct the air fuel ratio is near correct and the oil level is nearly correct. water flowing over the outside surface of the radiator fins will absorb and carry off far more heat than air from any fan flowing thru the fins as water is far more effective than air which is a poor conductor of heat compared to water, just have the radiator full, the water pump and t-stat working and a generous flow of water over the fins, I doubt you can get the coolant temp to 200F with a 180F t-stat under those conditions. if your worried have TWO hoses flow water thru the radiator fins, but be aware that the fan tends to suck a good deal of water thru the fins if your reving the engine and you need to place the car where a good deal of flowing water flowing from the radiators surface won,t have a problem running off. outside on a slightly sloped drive way vs in a garage is a good idea, but the neighbors may not like the noise and water in the street

"So your not going to be in Houston?" SORRY im VISITING THE GRANDSON THIS WEEKEND but IM sure if you take your time youll do just fine! remember its a whole lot easier and cheaper to do it correctly the first time vs replacing parts and doing it over again, if it takes you an additional week its still better than rushing and screwing it up and doing it over so keep that in mind!!

All Clearances, USE MOLY ASSEMBY LUBE ON THE BEARINGS Piston To Valve ROD SIDE CLEARANCE ALL BEARING CLEARANCES THRUST BEARING CLEARANCE CAM BUTTON TO FRONT COVER CLEARANCE OIL PUMP DRIVE TO DISTRIB CLEARANCE OIL PUMP PICK-UP TO OIL PAN FLOOR PISTON TO HEAD CLEARANCE RING GAP Rocker SLOT To Rocker Stud Spring Bind HEIGHT@ MAX CAM LIFT Retainer To Valve Guide Rocker To Retainer Pushrod To Guide Plate CAM LOBE TO ROD BOLT BLOCK TO RODS CAM GEAR TO DISTRIBUTOR GEAR AND DON,T FORGET TO PRE-PRIME THE OIL PASSAGES WHILE SLOWLY SPINNING THE ENGINE BY HAND UNTILL ALL THE PUSHRODS LEAK OIL etc.etc.ETC. And Yeah, Strait Up,zero Advance