grumpyvette

yes Id still retard it 4. degrees (install it strait up)is advanced 4 degrees in the dot to dot location, yeah, that moves the rpm curve about 200 rpm higher, BUT MAKE DAMN SURE YOU DO IT CORRECTLY and check clearances carefully. and Id lash it no tighter than about .022 but .026 is where its designed to run, so like I stated before,Ive tended to stay where its designed to be vs where you might THINK it should be lashed. yeah the dual plane intake will keep up durring most of the tq curve don,t judge it at idle or when slowly depressing the throttle, find someplace with lots of open pavement,put it in first and run it up to 3000rpm and stomp on the throttle and hold on tightly,and aim the car in the direction your wanting to go,and hold on tight, everytime the tack hits 6300 shift......youll get the hang of it if you live long enought!

congrats! btw SLEEP will now become just a fond memory, for the next few weeks

thats WHY a train crew swaps barrels between BELTS, and has an asbestoes glove and spare barrels with a MG crew, and why your SUPPOSED to work in teams of TWO or more MGs so at least one can be swapping barrels and reloading without seriously dropping the volume of suppressing fire

your refering to this cam, in the crane version http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 the differance is the idle is noticably rougher,with the tighter LCA the power peaks about 200rpm lower in the rpm range but it makes about 5-7 hp more, thats good on a manual trans race car but a less than ideal trade on the street, mostly because that idle is already noticable and the wider LCA drives easier at low rpms like youll see far more often on the street, now if he had a 4.56:1-4.88:1 rear gear that tighter LCA would be the way to go.

since I dont know all the speciffics , like,TRUE cpr,head flow numbers,ignition, headers size, a/f ratio, ETC, Id just be making an educated guess at this point, but Id be surprised if you didn,t exceed 430hp/430 tq (flywheel) the last 383 engine I built useing that cam and trickflow heads was well above that(463hp/449tq)before it was even tunned up keep in mind I don,t build combos for max peak hp, I build for MAX average power, I think youll notice and be pleased with the results, and be a marked improvement over the previous 350. don,t fall into the metal trap of worrying about hp/tq numbers, your 383 will noticably out perform the previous 350

you want to get REALLY SNEAKY......install a burgalar alarm contacting contolling the electric feed to the ignition (not the starter)in your center console that only closes when your seated with a magnet on your belt,(he wears a magnetic clip for his keychain on his hip) my buddy did that on his 1974 corvette and even with the key it won,t fire up, yeah it still will crank but not run, unless hes seated in the drivers seat. he says its a P.I.T.A. when he forgets or moves around alot, but it sure works

dremel or file or hacksaw, they all work, I generally try to get it about .040 x .040 , but get close and youll be fine,youll need to mark the distributor so you know exactly where it fits so it sprays oil directly onto the center of the CONTACT AREA,BETWEEN THE CAM AND DISTRIBUTOR gears, but Ill also point out that cutting the grouve in the block dirrectly above the gear prevents your turning the distrib and getting the oil squirting where it won,t do any good.

BTW buy these lifters, as they provide a little extra lube insurance http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=651080DL and heres the cam http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D114681&N=700+115&autoview=sku

yeah I caught that AFTER I posted! but it still looks like CRAP

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/show...0/fpart/1/vc/1

its pretty bad when your not sure if a cars facing toward or away from you??...at first glance thats the front? but then....looking at the roof line and window angles it might be the back your looking at....?.....almost looks like a mirrow in the rear lower corner of the window and theres no windshield????

I got asked if presoaking the timing chain assemblys a good IDEA? its a fairly comon practice, that fills the micro pores in the metal with lubricant and tends to prevent gauling on a true roller (CLOYES)new ,dry timing chain durring first starting the engine and drilling a .032 hole in the lifter gallery plug behind the cam gear will also help the life of the chain by getting more oil to it when the engine is running Ive always dropped the timing chains and gears in a pot ,covered them with synthetic oil/marvel mystery oil and heated them to about 212F a (1/4 tea spoon of water in the pot boiling off) indicates its done and ready to take off and let cool......does it HELP? well it certainly doesn,t hurt, and its one more way to prevent potential problems, but I can,t say its mandatory BTW YOUR new DISTRIBUTOR GEAR COULD USE THIS TREATMENT and cutting a grouve to spray extra oil sure helps wear http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB64&Number=1360418&Searchpage=2&Main=1358314&Words=pre-+lube&topic=&Search=true#Post1360418

"What level of push rod will I need for this setup?" Ive always prefered the better chrome moly pushrods but MEASURE with the stock ones and use those IF THEY ARE the correct length,untill you have the money to get the better ones, CRANE and TRICKFLOW have a good sellection http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=chevy+pushrods&searchinresults=false&N=+115&y=10&x=20

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1669870&an=0&page=1#Post1669870 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html read thru these, its worth your time!

can someone run a DD2000 dyno sheet on his combo with that cam? some of you guys FAR exceed my computer picture posting skills (btw ID install it 4 degrees retarded ) Ive got several killer E.A. and DD,2000 software versions but no way to post the power curve info , and a picture of the power curve would be great!! "So in your opinion, solid lifters are worth the added trouble in a street car?" HELL YES!! I run flat tappet solids in most performance applications, with carbs simply because once you get over about 235-240 degrees at .050 lift,of cam durration the solid lifters allow you an easy 500-800 extra rpm in the useful power band, its a no brainer in my opinion. below about 230 degrees durration your not running up into the valve float area in rpms so theres little to be gained useing solid lifters, as the hydrolics will run with less maintinance, but once you get good adjusting solid lifters , and see/feel the benefits, youll wonder why you took so long to switch

I can,t see where youll go wrong with this cam WITH 1.6:1 roller rockers, it will produce some decent lope at idle and good mid-thru upper rpm range tq/hp, yes the solid lifters are an asset, yes its going to be alittle wilder than ideal, for a daily driver, but certainly its streetable and on the plus side it makes very good power, with that lope your looking for and still has SOME vacume http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 btw I ran this cam in my 1969 camaro 383 with a muncie 4 speed and 4.11 gears and went mid twelves, with street tires. now that car weighed in at 3400 lbs without a driver,so you can see some potential, and it LOVEs nitrous just be sure to check all clearances because that cam with the 1.6:1 ratio rockers has a good deal of lift and takes full advantage of the head flow, I recently built a 383 with this cam that made 470hp and with less compression than you have, and similar components bottom line IF I was building it for myself, thats the cam ID sellect

post all your drivetrain and proposed engine specs and Ill run it thru my software and notes on similar engines, give you a few IDEAS now personally I prefer solid flat tappet cams as the best performance per dollar but let me know what YOUR looking for?

the 700r4 is loosly based on the th350 but with an overdriven top gear ratio http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/gear_ratios.asp both transmissions can be built to handle more than the stock 350 ft lbs of tq but neither is a true heavy duty trans

OK whats your compression ratio going to be? rear gear ratio,trans? ETC. and what type cam are you looking for?

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1527608&an=0&page=0#Post1527608 theres NO down side to a correctly built 383, BUT use 5.7" or 6" connecting rods

"I get the feeling that if you could reach thru the computer you would be vigurously shaking me back and forth yelling "spend the freaking money" thats what I get for useing a cheap VOODOO DOLL,........... NEVER TRY TO USE LOW PRICE PARTS ON CRITICAL COMPONENTS your NOT getting the measage full strength if your only getting a (FEELING)...... by now you should be having SEVERAL REALLY NASTY 9 foot tall demons boncing you off the wall and ceiling and having the "spend the freaking money" in flames on the wall, if the stupid VOODOO DOLL was working correctly

think of it this way if you buy the cast/hyper deal youve WASTED $1200 PLUS, AND youll need to spend an additional $1700,-1900 PLUS, the gaskets and machine shop costs if you ever want to upgrade, if you buy the forged set up you spent about $400 more than you wanted to but youll never need to upgrade spend $450 or $3000????

yeah, this is typical minor B.S., a dremel tool and a few seconds careful work will rectify the problem, elongating the feed hole in the bearing shell and yeah, youll seldom have these problems with clevite or http://www.clevite.com/ http://www.king-bearings.com/cat/

it varies a great deal between manufacturers but generally (H) rods with CAP SCREW BOLTS have MORE clearance than (I) rods and are easier to clearance, in any case its just not that hard to do! keep in mind cam lobe clearance is harder to get than block clearance

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1527608&an=0&page=0#Post1527608 take the time to read thru