grumpyvette

Ive got 3 auto darkening helmets now,they all operate in a similar fashsion the HF gets used most simply because if it gets scarded up or damaged with welding splater from welding under the car Im out about $50 so I look at it as a consumable/disposable item and save the better helmets for conditions ,less likely to damage the helmet, I gotta tell you the differance in quality is just not that great from what I see.

I was seriously racing in the mid 1970s-1980s with that vette, it ran mid to- low 10s durring most of the late 1970s-80s while tried dozens of differant bbc engine combos, and several transmission types, generally the trans was an M22 and 4.56 rear gears but I tried 4.11, 4.88,5,13 rear gears, several types of slicks, and a TH400 trans also. building the car with todays available parts would be laughtably easy compared to back then when you were restricted in many areas of the built to modified stock components, decent big block heads, cranks,rods, cams, were just not available like now or were exorbanditly priced, on the plus side blocks and heads ETC. were cheap and easy to get. a complete LS7 500 hp crate engine cost $1600, but you were making $130-$200 a week back then, so the cost in weeks worked to buy an engine was similar to todays $9000-$12,000 costs for similar engines

short answer, the piston compresses NOTHING untill both valves are closed, and it takes cylinder pressure to make power or cause detonation,detonation, is the result of higher than ideal cylinder heat, high cylinder pressure and lower than ideal fuel octane, or in some cases bad fuel/air mix ratio or ignition curve/advance read the links/SUB LINK INFO http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93155&highlight=dcr http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1137028&an=0&page=0#Post1137028 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110913&highlight=dcr

SPECIALK (or anyone else) please buy and watch the CD, on engine assembly and give us YOUR independent impression of the info, as a non-engine builder, but informed hobbiest viewpoint http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=180950&Category_Code= cam sellection software http://www.virtualengine2000.com/DynoOverview.htm virtual dyno software http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html how to asemble an engine basics on video heres three of the less expensive CDs that are well worth getting, ESPECIALLY the last two! they can easily save a new guy to the hobby a great deal of time and money and screw ups matching parts the top one is a cam sellection program, I have got to say that its a good starting point and seldom makes bad suggestions, take the durration and lift and LCA info and buy the cam for your combo from YOUR FAVORITE MANUFACTURER AFTER TALKING TO THEM ABOUT YOUR COMBO...but the software prediction gets you into the ballpark, and if yout thinking youll be useing a siggnificantly wilder cam your probably looking to screw up! for the more advanced guys http://www.proracingsim.com/dynomationmainpage.htm http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm

glad to help out guys

I just finnished wiring my garage and the inspectors said they had seldom if ever seen as nice a job, before you start get a copy of your local specs and follow them, if you don,t understand ASK QUESTIONS, every last outlet was in conduit, grounded and tested, every group of three, dual 110 volt outlets was 20A rated, on a seperate ground-fault circuit and breaker and 10 GA minimum wire get a larger box than you think youll need, theres ALWAYS extra runs and breakers being added later....and you can run sub boxes in some cases the 110 volt stuffs a no-brainer hot =black,gold screw neutral =white, silver screw green =ground green screw you need to ground the metalic box the outlets in to the ground in the main box and ground rod the whites go back to the neutral bar in the box blacks to the power lug on the breakers greens go to the ground bar in the box,(I had a seperate ground going to each leg terminating on each box in a series and a unique seperate ground to each outlet,(you may not want to go that far but I refuse to do things less than the best I can) again follow the local specs and don,t cut corners the aggravation durring inspections or in use from doing it cheap/sloppy and potential problems far far out weight the cost in time and materials http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U077.pdf http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U013-U020.pdf http://www.sigmasystems.com/Techdoc/Tech_Docs/SigmaPowerPlugs.htm http://leviton.com/pdfs/d-503/d-503T.pdf (see page 21) http://www.danielwoodhead.com/pdf/139-172/163.pdf http://techpubs.sgi.com/library/tpl/cgi-...i_html/apb.html btw this may help, most garages need a welder or a lift, sooner or later so youll more than likely need a 220 volt outlet (30-100amp) this wiring stuffs not hard to do, but use the correct gauge wire and the correct plugs and sockets for the application and ID strongly suggest useing a MINIMUM of 10ga wire for 110volt and 3/4" metalic conduit (use the correct single breaker rating for the application on the 110 volt) 110 v outlet end black/power to the gold screw white/neutral to the silver screw green/ground to the green screw 110v at the box black/power to breaker white/ neutral to neutral bar green/ ground to ground bar and 4 GA on the high amp 230 volt applications,like WELDERS, little 230volt stuff like compressors and lifts get along fine with (4) 10 ga wires (use the correct dual breaker rating for the application on the 220 volt) 220v at the outlet red feed to one hot black feed to one hot green to ground on plug (optional but HIGHLY RECOMENDED) second green to the conduit ground screw 220v at the box red to one side of DUAL breaker black to one side of DUAL breaker green/ ground to ground bar optional green/ ground to ground bar the main fead comes into the main breaker, now youll probably need three or four leads yeah the wires themselfs are ALL usually black but identify each circuit and use color tape green ground black=1 power lead red=1 power lead white=neutral theres usually a second short green 3 gauge ground dirrectly to a 10 foot long copper ground rod on the outside of the building within a few feet of the main box location and a short run to the water pipe ground with a 4 gauge and clamp, I ran two 10 ft ground rods plus the water pipe ground

thank you! I can ALWAYS use more sources for STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST PARTS/TUBING/BENDS/FLANGES

gear spread sheet that comes in handy THANKS TO 1FATGMC http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html HERES OTHER INFO LINKS http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#tabtop http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#Auto BTW THIS WOULD MAKE A GREAT STICKY

why not call AFR and ask, they might have the info AIR FLOW RESEARCH 28611 W. Industry Drive Valencia, California, USA 91355 tel: 877-892-8844 fax:661-257-4462

glad to help out guys

well, IM older and Im sure,slower, but a couple of glasses of brandy over several hours and good conversation has never hurt my results, now Id sure be in trouble if I ran thru a few glasses quickly, but a 6 oz glass can last me most of the night. and I only rarely indulge,but there ARE TIMES when it certainly doesn,t hurt, in fact it has been known to make things like busting a knuckle when a wrench slipped slightly less tramatic,(and probably contributed to the reason it happend) now don,t get the IDEA I drink frequently, while I work, on the vettes, I got a qt of good brandy for xmass and its still 1/2 full now in october so I hardly quality for AA, but like I stated THERE ARE TIMES when its a welcome addition

Id bet that a few hours with a tape measure a few brandys and a good welder and you could addapt them to clear, and have a decent set of long tube headers

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/2147HKR.pdf http://www.holley.com/2147HKR.asp so why all the BLOCK HUGGER exhaust systems??

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/2147HKR.pdf

NO! I don,t know whos car it is, but it sure brings back memories of my 1968 race vette....I only ran very low 10s at 135mph but it launched and sounded similar http://challengevideos.com/video2.php?video=http://www.challengevideos.com/2006/event10/009_PG01_M009_NEW.wmv&title=%3Cb%3EPro+8+Qualifying%3C/b%3E+Angelo+Valla+(1972+Targa+Blue+Coupe)+vs.Paul+Ziajski+(2002+Black+Z06)+Valla+clocks+new+personal+best+in+the+big+block+nitrous+C3+with+an+8.087+@+175.76.++The+other+driver,+Ziajski+qualifies+with+an+11+second+pass+in+Zona

AGREED VALUE is the way to go! GEICO, is dropping you only because they are not raking in the bucks monthly, keep that in mind, the car will stay insured with no problem if you aggree to pay full rate while it sits

well,? did you clean out the block?, what did you find? did you get the CAM & LIFTERS I sent?

"Which carbs do you trust as far as claimed ratings?" ID say NONE! they are all ESTIMATES, close but never correct, from what IVE seen personally I like the DEMON carbs first,qualtiys noticably better and tunning easier on most models ,transition tunning is far better than holley on the race demon line, but its also easier to screw things up big time, as theres more things to adjust, so theres more potential to screw up holleys second , much more flexable than the edelbrocks, but limited compared to the race demons and edelbrocks THIRD, nearly bullet proof , dirt simple and easy to adjust but not very flexiable , compared to the demons or holleys, but thats really a PLUS , rather than a problem in some applications. like dual quads you can simplify things, a 750 -850, mighty,race, or speed demon will work on nearly all small block applications, call the manufacturer for the correct part/application http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=24389&parentCategoryId=10271

??? I just had a two large brandy,s and Im relaxing,so this may be all my lack of understanding here.....but WTH are you talking about????

jmortensen I repeat I went thru this THINK NORTH CENTRAL TO UPPER MID CENTRAL FLORIDA NO STATE income taxes year round decent weather crime in rural floridas LOW concelled carry licence is easy to get, most people don,t bother cops don,t look at a shotgun in the rear window as anything out of the ordinary, people are generally polite, its only south florida that SUCKS fast growing area ,lots of job potential for SKILLED or even SEMI SKILLED workers you can shop around but you can get a nice house on 5 acres for between $500K and 700K EASILY, shop harder and noticably better deals are available, especially on larger or smaller tracks of land,recently saw several nice deals far enougth north like in the tallahassee or jacksonville to pensecola in areas that are at least 50 miles from the coast

BOTH but this may help you http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcdchg.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccarb.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcafhp.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page4/effarea/effarea.html http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/toc.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6992/vizard.html http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp

I get this question in so many versions I guess its time for a thread with some basic info. the question usually goes " what size carb do I need," or something similar, 4v carbs are rated at a flow rate determined with a vacume or pressure drop of 1.5" of mercury, your best power will generally be found with a carb that lowers the presure drop or vacume to between 0.5" and 1.0" of vacume, not 1.5" at full throttle,more vacume at full throttle indicates a slight restriction to flow, now on a street car thats not going to be much if and problem, but on a race cars engine its a sign that your potentially giving away some potential power. lets look at your comon 600cfm carb many of you guys use, a 0.5 inches of vacume it flows only about 350cfm, at 1.0" it flows about 500cfm, at 1.5" it flows about 600 cfm , rated like a two barrel at 3.0" of vacume it flows close to 780cfm, and if you stuck it on a 600 cubic inch big block spinning 6000rpm youll pull about 6" of vacume and it would flow about 1000cfm plus! now remember youll try to stay in the .5" to 1.5" range at full throttle, to make good power. now some of you might notice that the flow dropped NOTICABLY once the vacume dropped and dropping the vacume at wide open throttle tends to help power, provided the a/f ratio is kept near 12.7-13.0:1,AND the engine is set up to USE the flow available to it. VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY in theory a cylinder fills to 100% full, but the limited time the valves are open and the ports restrictive flow will only allow that to happen at a narrow rpm range your engines torque curve on an rpm scale closely mirrors the engines efficincy at filling the cylinders, on that same scale, once the cam timing and port flow become a restriction power falls off because theres less fuel /air mix burnt per power stroke, the power tends to keep going up for alittle further in the rpm band simply because theres MORE ,thou slightly less effective power strokes per minute. at 1000rpm theres 500 intake strokes per minute thats 8.3 per second times the intake valve opens and closes, at 6500rpm thats 54 times a second, not much time when you think about what needs to flow thru that port in the limited time....especially if you remember that of that 720 degrees in the cycle only about 240 degrees have any useful flow potential, so you just cut even that time by 2/3rds keep in mind the rear gear ratio has a huge effect on the time youll spend in each gear before being forced to change gears due to the rpm levels increaseing faster,and the distance youll travel between shifts, will be shorter,it also aids in that your appling more rpms or power strokes per foot of distance traveled, thus more tq gets applied,the converter allows you to get into the more effective higher rpm ranges faster and apply the tq quicker, BOTH are necessary to take full advantage of the power curve, look heres two differant power curves, it should be obvious that youll want to both start higher and operate in a higher rpm range with the second combo than the first, to maximize the effective power to the rear wheels now back to the carbs size some of you may have figgured out that to get the lower vacume or restriction, youll want a larger carb or perhaps two carbs, remember were trying to get that .5"-1.0" of vacume at full throttle, and that 600cfm carb is not going to flow 600cfm, at that vacume reading but between about 350-500cfm, so if you have an engine that can take full advantage of the flow it may, and usually does require a larger carb to make max power,that 383 might require an 800-850cfm carb or two 600 cfm carbs (since you double the venturie cross sectional area with two carbs the vacume reading is generally cut to about 1/2 what it was and the two 600 cfm carbs now flow about 350cfm each or 700cfm per pair) yet the carb size is just NOT all that critical,to making fairly decent (NOT MAXIMUM POWER) simply because as the vacume signal goes up, so does the carbs flow rate, and as the vacume signal strength goes down so does the flow RESPONCE! up till now we are talking only FULL THROTTLE POWER, but you operate under a wide range of rpms and loads, put that larger carb on a small engine and it makes good power at wide open throttle, but it also tends to have a weak vacume signal at off idle rpm ranges and it may run like crap! so a ballance must be accepted. smaller carbs are generally more responcive, but slightly more restrictive with thier smaller venturies. lets look at a 383, in theory each cylinder requires 1/8 th of the displacement, or 47.875 cubic inches of fuel air mix every 720 degrees, or every other time around on the intake stroke,theres 1728 cubic inches in a cubic foot, so at 6500rpm the 383 would require 1244750 cubic inches, or 720cfm (remember the carbs are rated at 1.5" but you want lets assume .75 inches of vacume, yet we don,t want a carb so big that responce and drivability sucks, in theory we want a 800-850cfm carb at full throttle, but only a 280-400cfm carb at low rpms, thats why a 600cfm-750cfm carb is generally sellected, but Id also point out that TWIN/DUAL 500cfm carbs will work very exceptiably having BOTH the flow at high rpms and the small responcive venturies at low and mid rpm ranges. but since it requires extensive tunning skills they are less comonly used/sellected remember that great set of heads that flow 250cfm at .600 lift?? well of the 720 degrees available in a cycle theres probably less than a tenth of a second to a fifty-th of a second of available time that they acctually get to flow air, yet they are rated at a steady open flow, that head that flows 250cfm on a bench flows A WHOLE LOT LESS ON AN ENGINE WITH MOVING VALVES, one reason why maximizing flow potential is critical QUESTIONS/COMMENTS

what was the part # on the cam,you sellected,the compression ratio you finally had and part # on the heads and intake, carb size ETC

rytherwr (and or anyone else whos done the converter swap, please chip in here) I have tried unsuccessfully in the past but perhaps you could do it better,could you please attemp to describe the differance in the driving impression or feel the high stall 3500rpm,converter made VS the stock 2200rpm converter in normal street low rpm driving, and then seperately how it works at the track differantly, there seems to be the myth that a 3500rpm stall converter won,t move the car under light loads at anything less than 3500rpm (WITH A 3500 RPM CONVERTER) I really don,t understand how people think like that since a stock converter stalling at lets say 1800-2200 moves the car just fine at 1200rpm, but perhaps you can add some input here