nullbound

interesting reading. my first set of canfields were not ordered from competition products, my engine-builder friend paul got them through a local speed shop that got them straight from canfield. the guideplates and valves were kept, but the springs, locks, studs, and retainers were replaced. i was considering getting a set for my next engine through cp and am glad to know it's not a good idea. i'll be ordering mine straight from canfield, as well as spreading the word as to the quality from competition products. like grumpy, i am a big fan of the canfields. for the price and the performance, it's really hard to beat. it looks like you've got your mind set on ordering straight from afr or canfield. for me, it would just be a matter of what i could get for the price. i think you'll come out with better heads for less dinero from canfield. afr's are awesome, dont get me wrong. but, afr seems to know they are awesome with their prices. be sure to compare what you can get straight from canfield with what you can get from jeg's. that's something i have wanted to look into. my first thought was only "i can get the same heads for cheaper from competition products." now i'm looking at it differently. and victor jr's are awesome, too!

cool, good info guys. and that's really cool that you got to see the facilities, zfreak. my car is also getting new paint. i hope to get it back in the next few weeks. then, i'll be doing the installation according to the manual. looks pretty straightforward. i've never done the tv cable pressure testing, but they have really good instructions for that. i didnt buy one of their converters when i bought the tranny from bowtie overdrives. i already have a b&m holeshot 2400. and i'm still contemplating on whether i should get a 3000 stall and save this 2400 for my other z.

yeah, bowtie is really big on that. i just got my stage 3 2004r from bowtie overdrives today. i was reading in their manual about running the lines through the radiator. and that it should be running at 150 degrees.... interesting. i'm getting a tranny gauge for mine. my griffin radiator does not have provisions for auto tranny cooler lines. so, i guess i'll have to prove that my b&m cooler is sufficient with the taurus fans sucking air through it. there was a clause in their manual for proving. seems you have to prove a lot to get the warrantee. but, that's cool. z ya, which order did you run the cooling: tranny to rad to cooler or tranny to cooler to radiator? i have heard and read that the order is important. i dont know which is the recommended, though, right off hand. zfreak, which stage tranny did you get? have you driven with it in yet? how was the installation and setup?

it depends, really. do you have a temp gauge for your tranny? a lot of the tranny builders recommend the tranny cooler lines be run through the radiator to bring the temperature of your tranny down closer to what the engine is running at. normal operating temps of an automatic tranny tend to be in the ballpark of 200 degrees, but can be as high as 350+ degrees. but, think about that for a moment. if your tranny is running hotter and your engine, you may actually raise the temperature of the coolant in your engine. and, on the same note, if your engine is running hotter than you tranny, you could be raising the temp of your tranny fluid. i've always used a separate stand alone cooler for the auto tranny in any car i've had (other than something that was bonestock). i use the b&m cooler and have it mounted in front of my radiator. that's always been good enough for me, as i've never had any problems. and with that taurus fan pulling air through the cooler and the radiator, you should be fine. since you are running at 185 degrees, i'd say you have no cooling problems. it may or may not make a difference to you. it would be nice to have a gauge and try both ways. i'll stick with the stand alone tranny cooler for mine. also, using synthetic atf will lower your tranny temp a few degrees.

awesome, glad to hear you got it ok. that's actually pretty quick, too. it's not uncommon to have to wait an entire month or more to get the hood to your door. it was a job just to unpack it, right? lots of staples and nice big box . that's a MAJOR selling point for me. and you WILL have to remove the tension rods. if you do not, it will put a lot of pressure on the hood and cause it to crack, probably where the brackets are attached to the fiberglass. i removed mine by cutting them towards the middle with a cutoff wheel. however you do it, be careful. they will sling up on you more than you might think. it makes a rather loud noise, too. i also had to slot the l-brackets a little to get the hood to line up like i wanted. are you going to use hood pins near the wiper cowl or the factory latch? i started with the factory latch, but later went to hood pins. it seems to be held more solidly with the pins.

excellent work, guys! heat is the key.

i was asked similar questions for a job i got right out of college. interviewing for the job involved passing each the following: a phone interview with a recruiter, a formal interview with the recruiter, a programming test, an over-the-phone technical interview, and finally a technical and programming interview with a project manager (which happened to take place at a strip club in atlanta... talk about distractions!). it took about four weeks for everything to happen. the formal interview with the recruiter for the company was where i had a logic test with similar questions. the whole interview process was very rigorous, but the logic test was probably the most nerve-racking. i was given 5 logic questions and had to answer at least 3 of them within 30 minutes, and i had no idea that this logic test was coming. the manhole question was one of my questions. as stated above, it didnt seem to matter as much whether you got the right answer ( but, i did have to get 3 right to go to the next interview). it was more of a test of how well you react under pressure. this company was looking for well-rounded individuals, as well. i got the job, amazingly enough, but once the economy tanked, so did the job. my favorite question was this one: You are in a room facing the wall. On the wall are mounted three normal light switches. Each of the switches operates one of three, regular, incandescent lights in the next room. You are allowed to manipulate/operate the switches any way you like and then make one (and only one) trip into the next room. How can you operate the switches in a manner that will tell you, without a doubt, which switch operates which light?

looks like you can add it to your cart for $0.00 if you act now

hehe, good call, that IS da flame...

well, whatever it costs, you still have to buy it. if it's $5 a gallon, you'll still need it to get to work. i filled up monday at QT (usually one of the cheaper places) for $1.49 for regular unleaded per gallon. two weeks ago at my previous fillup, it was $1.32 at the same place. the southeast tends to have the best prices for gas, as far as i've been able to tell with travel for my job around the US.

the be cool stuff is expensive, and most of what i've seen is for mounting electric fans. jtr sells the lower radiator mount for $40 (or around that...). if you have the jtr manual, you can make your own from the diagrams. you can also make your own mounts for the top out of aluminum strips. whatever you do, use some sort of rubber pad/strip/isolator to sit between the radiator and whatever mount you use. you dont want metal rubbing metal... i'm not too keen on using the L-brackets on the tanks of the radiator and mounting it solidly. chassis flexing can be hell on a radiator. i've been down that road already... pete p has a really cool top mount. i'll be doing something similar when i install my griffin, but i'll probably have two separate pieces, one on each end that also serves to hold the fan in place.

that is going to be an amazing car. the dash and wheels are an awesome transplant. looks great!!!! i'd love to have those wheels for my next 240 project...

mike kz has a gm 12 bolt in his car. check out some pics on this page: mike kz's gm 12 bolt

hey, no problem. i think the hump is just right. and, again, you'll be amazed at how well it's packaged. no chance of damage. i ordered one from jim cook racing once that they may has well have wrapped in one-ply toilet paper (gee, how did that corner break...). sumo, the hood is considerably lighter than the stocker. i dont have exact weight measurements, but you can pick it up with one hand and feel like you can sling it around a bit. looks like they went up in price... last one that i bought was $399 a year ago and i'm about ready to buy another one. shipping was about $75 to the freight company upon delivery.

that's the hood that i have. you can see it in my sig below. it's a great hood and you'll be pleased at how well it is packed when it arrives. it does bolt up really easily. you will have to drill holes to mount your hood latch and may have to slot the brackets that come on the hood a little to get it to line up properly. as with all fiberglass parts, it will need a little prep work when it is painted. scottie gnz has the same hood on his car, too.

Wow, some very interesting backgrounds here. Mine: BS Computer Science, Minor in Applied Mathematics (and BS Applied Physics dropout... two degrees at once is too much... ) from Emory University in Atlanta in 2000. I've been an Internet/eCommerce Developer/Consultant for an eCommerce development shop (Priceline.com, BestBuy.com, and Amazon.com were just a few of our major clients before the internet fallout of 2k1), a Software and Controls Engineer/DBA for a company that develops packaging and conveyor controls systems for distribution centers, and currently a Software/Applications Engineer for an up and coming international telecommunications company that continues to grow. it's interesting to have dealt with different aspects and uses for software... just to see how it's really all the same at it's core. and, yes, i am a gearhead. if there had been a major in Gearhead Engineering, i would have a Ph.D.

cool, good to know! thanks for that info, zfan.

cool, that's basically what i was planning to do. i was planning on operating solely on the switch using a wiring scheme just as in your diagram. where did you get your switch? i went to radio shack last weekend and they looked at me like i was crazy when asking for something more than the standard on-off switch.

just save them to your computer and open them in a new browser. as auxilary stated, they are still loaded at fullsize resolution, but the code for that webpage makes them appear smaller on the webpage. if you save them and reopen them in a browser, they will reopen in their actual size.... which is pretty big (~1200x1600 pixels).

yeah, looks good! i, too, look forward to seeing it at reynold's.

i understand the reason for wanting the compression drivers and 8's in the kick panels. i fully understand the benefits for both imaging and staging, as well as air space requirements. i've been doing systems for a while myself and have been a longtime fan of alpine and a/d/s products. i've been following car audio for sometime and have even listened to both richard clark's buick grand national and harry kimura's acura legend from speakerworks fame with the early wave guides at an IASCA event in the early 90's. the kickpanel area itself in a 240 is basically a flat metal surface with very small cutouts to access the bolts holding the hinges for the doors. to put an 8" speaker in that area, you'll probably end up building the enclosure in the back corner of the kickpanel/firewall. i'm not saying it can't be done, but you will be sacrificing some leg room. and with the compression drivers mounted to the bottom of your dash.... i hope the magnets on the compression drivers and the midbasses you want to use are really really small. i have q-logic panels mounted to my kickpanels holding 5.25" midranges and i couldnt imagine having much more down there.

there's not really a whole lot of air space to start with in a z and i like having some access to what's there... you'll have to make some serious build-outs in your kick panels to get 8's to fit, too. i used two sheets of 3/4" mdf to mount 2 10's in my spare tire well. i could have done it with one sheet, but i wanted to countersink the speakers and lay the carpet over it so no one could see what's underneath. it's actually bolted to the spare tire well underneath with some small 90 degree metal brackets and i used silicone to seal it. you could do the same to mount a single 12.

ah, the bikes from tron have finally become reality. so, does it leave the streak of light behind it wherever it goes?

gotta love the atl.

serious dubs....