MrFancypants

I ran a Blitz Spec S for several years on a turbo SR20 and thought it was a great unit. If you want to consistently run more than 1 bar you should get the Spec R, though. The dual solenoid controllers will have much better control at high boost. - Greg -

The stock Z brakes are all plumbed with 3/16 hard line. Is there any value in going to 1/4 or even 5/16 hard line? Im guessing that would make the brakes less responsive, but is there a reason to "upgrade" to a larger line? - Greg -

Go to Phoenix and find a Granberry Supply. They will have em. - Greg -

Damn I never noticed the vented access panels. Now thats a killer idea that doesnt end up hacking your hood! - Greg -

Can you move the ads to the bottom of the page at least? They are super distracting and look out of place in their current location. - Greg -

It's not really something I can imagine adjusting while driving, but you could stop, reach back, pop the panel up, tweak it, then take another drive. Beats putting it in the engine bay where you have to exit the car to adjust it. Im a little wary of the ashtray location since you'd have to route the brake line up into the trans tunnel where they arent well protected. The other nice thing is if it gets a leak it's sealed in the storage compartment, unlike the popular mounting location outside the console by the seat. - Greg -

So I've been humming and hawing about where to put my prop valve, and discovered the jack storage compartment. I think this spot would be PERFECT to conceal the valve and just so happens to be directly above the hard lines on the underside of the car. The inlet/outlet lines could easily be routed into this compartment and the valve completely sealed from view. Thoughts? Anyone done this before? - Greg -

I was interested in them too until I found a few sites selling them for $400/ea. Kinda steep! Let me know if you find a great price - Greg -

The secret (so I've read) to removing sound deadening is to get some dry ice. Lay it on the tar and it will literally chip off. It's still hard work but a lot easier. - Greg -

Man there's a hell of a lot of rust covered with paint on that car. - Greg -

I was in on that GB actually. I got the rims and was not impressed with the quality. Thankfully Jay let me return them for a refund. I find the Konigs to have much better quality paint. The 16x7 Rewinds are $135 EA at Discount. Im assuming that's directed at me. Not sure why youre thinking Im uneducated? This is not my first time shopping for tires. I have had great results with BFG Sports in the past as an all around street w/ occasional track use tire. Only question was they claim you can squeeze a 245/255-series tire onto a 7" rim and everyone on this board seems to think otherwise. I know it's not preferred. Im set on the 16x7's now. Sometimes you just need to ask a question to answer it yourself - Greg -

Scott.. great ideas. Is that a custom tow hook? Can you post some links to more pics of your front end? Nice car! - Greg -

Yeah I think I am going to buy the Rewinds and just cross my fingers that Konig releases a matching 16x8 wheel that I can later replace my rears with. According to BFG's website you can mount their 255 series Sport tire on a 7" rim. Not sure how well it would work but they say it will fit. I suppose worst case Im looking at a spacer and a wider than preferred tire on a 7" rim in the rear. The Rewind with gunmetal finish is a very sharp wheel. - Greg -

Exactly. The reason I did this is because the ES sleeve is captured between the outer washers and the hub. There isnt a noticeable amount of slop, either. I suppose if you were super anal you could just fill the thing with RTV before putting the bolt in. I really dont think misalignment is an issue with this solution. - Greg -

How bout ponying up a dyno curve to back that up. I dont think you can make a KA or an SR make that kind of power. - Greg -

I just got a test fit 16x7 Konig Rewind wheel from Discount Tire and it clears the JSK kit (12.2" rotor with Superlite Caliper) by an inch. Im wondering if I should go with 15x8 wheels so I can run bigger tires down the road. Any thoughts? - Greg -

I must confess the car still hasnt been driven since I began the suspension/brake overhaul several months ago I didnt notch for the pin. I dont see how it's necessary since the head will never come off and the bolt length is perfect. I used a grade 8 5/8 lock nut (crushed, not nylon). I also coated the bolt surface with antiseize and plugged the pin holes, though I doubt it will rust badly enough to seize again. 5/8 is slightly smaller than the spindle pin. - Greg -

IIRC the cams are interchangeable, and I would imagine the grinds are different. JWT S3 cams will fit in both a USDM NA SR20 and a JDM SR20DET. Only the GTI-R AWD SR20DET has mechanical lifters (though you could convert to them) so it has entirely different cams. The tstat locations are different because the motor is mounted transversely in a FWD car. The RWD motor also has a cam angle sensor, direct ignition, etc. making it a fair bit different than the FWD. If you tried to mount a FWD SR20 in a longitudinal orientation the distributor would hit the firewall. I dont have the full list of what is different between the motors, but I would say they are similar enough to say that the differences are minor. Like I said before, the SR is simply a turbo motor, designed by Nissan to be so, while the KA is not. If you look at the later model (98/99+) roller rocker SR motors, they are considerably weaker as Nissan went to reduce weight and cost since all that turbo strength wasnt necessary for the NA motor. - Greg -

Jon, Im wondering if we could somehow use the stock Z ventilation system that draws from the front grill and instead seal it off from the grill and cabin and use the channels in the body to vent under hood air? When I looked at these channels they look well sealed. - Greg -

They are different in terms of casting. It's complicated to make a FWD SR20 work with a RWD transmission for example. However the important stuff about the bottom end (i.e. those things leading to strength and durability), are the same, other than a change in compression and some oil squirters like I mentioned. The ultimate hp for the SR20DET is higher, but only assuming you want more than 350-400 whp. - Greg -

I have personally turbocharged a USDM SR20 to in excess of 350 whp without changing anything but cams. The bottom end of the NA SR20 is rock solid and almost identical to the DET. The only real reason to go with the SR20DET is for lower compression and oil squirters. That of course is for FWD apps. For RWD apps you may as well get the SR20DET because there are no RWD SR20DE's in the US. The KA is a NA motor from the factory. It can be turbocharged like any other NA motor, but it does not have a turbocharged counterpart with almost identical construction as the SR. A factory designed turbo motor is always going to be more robust than a factory NA motor with an aftermarket turbo. - Greg -

That is really really cool... thanks for giving me some great ideas. I have been thinking of doing some of my own paintwork and this motivates me! I like the PVC frame idea. - Greg -

Yeah, gotta agree with you: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Galant_VR-4 6th gen by the sounds of it. - Greg -

Actually you'll want to use normal clockwise thread drill bits when taking out an easy out since it is already reverse thread. Unless youre lucky and can work the entire stud free. I'd rather remove the easy out first then work on the stud, though. Definitely worth a shot since it should only be bound up under pressure. If you cant get the bit to start you're probably stuck with the carbide bit as described. I used an Easy Out... ONCE - Greg -

Ok so I got rid of the vapor separator as described, only to find a nice big puddle of gas on my garage floor a few hours later. God what a stench. Turns out I had the return line open and in the high heat of the day (~104F on Sunday bleah) the gas just expanded right out the fuel return. Stupid me, yeah I know. This made me notice that, since my car has a L28 swap and round top carbs thanks to a previous owner, the fuel return line does nothing. In fact, the return was connected to what should be the EVAP purge line to the fuel rail (small line with pinhole above mech fuel pump). Where is the return line supposed to go on the L24, or is there even one? Was there no EVAP purge line on the L24 rail and thats actually the fuel return? The size of that line is tiny (maybe 3/16") compared to the fuel return (5/16"). Should I seal off the return or flare up the connection between the return line and the fuel rail? Tony, by "intake" I didnt mean the manifold after the TB, but the filter before the TB. There shouldnt be any vacuum on it. But this begs another question, if I go with the vac operated valve to switch the vapor line between the crankcase and the intake, will there be sufficient release without vacuum. In other words, when the car is off and sitting or I fill the tank, will the vapor line bleed off to the crankcase? Will this eliminate fuel fumes? This is how I was led to believe the 240Z system works in another thread. - Greg -