MrFancypants

Man, that was unexpected... don't seem to find too many fellow Mining Engineers on car forums. Lots of mechs and computer guys though Im degreed as a Mining-Mechanical Engineer, but work for a contractor to the industry as a Project Manager. - Greg -

Hope this is considered work safe

Dude... sweet carputer - Greg -

A quick bit of research will show you similar home values in the area youre looking... that will tell you if their price is reasonable. Days on market is a huge thing to watch out for. I think it would be a waste of your and the seller's time to offer lower than 10% under asking, unless it's been on the market for 6 months and similar homes in the area are selling for much less. It's a lot like buying a car.. it's about what it's worth to you and what youre willing to pay. Everything else is just negotiation. If you bid low, be prepared that you may lose the house. Do you have a realtor? - Greg -

The braided rubber stuff is quite nice, but is by no means cheap. Here's a couple pics of the fittings Im talking about: 1. 5/16 to -5 AN swivel fitting (brass) - under $2 EA 2. An installed hose between a fuel rail and AFPR The other fittings are -6 ORB to -5 AN in the rail and AFPR, then 45 and 90 deg -5 adapters. They are all steel which is much cheaper than anodized aluminum. All depends how much bling you want I guess. - Greg -

Possibly not, but I would just use reinfoced rubber EFI hose since youre replacing it anyway. Also, then if you go high pressure in the future you dont have to redo it all Ive found Goodyear hose to be really good. - Greg -

The hoses are not easy to get onto the barbs. You will want to push them on off the car and then install them. They dont require clamps and fit extremely tight. Then when you go to install, the hose will twist if the fitting is not a swivel. It also helps greatly during removal. That fitting at Summit looks like a swivel, very similar to the one I am talking about except in anodized aluminum. I think you'll like the price of the brass ones a lot better - less than half of the one youre looking at. I would recommend using -5 or -6 AN fittings on 5/16 or 3/8 hose, then use adapters on all of your fuel regulators, filters, etc. to go to the right AN size. - Greg -

Guess you like your hoses twisting when you tighten them? - Greg -

Dont get those.. they arent swivel fittings. If you want I can source the fittings from my local Granberry. Just let me know how many you need and what hose/AN size for each. I can take a pic of the fittings I have if you like. They are brass. - Greg -

On my turbo G20 (~300 whp), mine used to go out at about 75-80 mph in 3rd gear on the strip (made for crappy times!), or after a few hard laps on the track. Its just the heat that gets it... after a while it just gets so hot it slips. My ACT HD SS did fine for regular daily driving, but under repeated hard use it let me down repeatedly. I like ACT pressure plates but their street disc couldnt hold my power... see if JWT makes a one-side metal disc for your motor. It's a nice compromise between an organic and a metal disc. Thats what I ended up replacing the ACT SS disc with to solve my problems. It grabbed like crazy. - Greg -

Let me know if you want to make a deal on the motor and tranny. - Greg -

Me 3 on vacuum being worth it. I dont see why you'd want just positive pressure. Vacuum is a useful thing to know. - Greg -

Do you have a Granberry Supply over there? That's where Ive bought all my fittings and hose (including SS teflon) in the past. They can build custom hoses (crimp the ends on, pressure test) to your specs too. Im sure they could do something in hard line, even reflare existing hard line for new fittings. Looks like Im going to have to do that since half my stock brake lines are cheesed. You can also buy reusable fittings and hose from places like Pegasus, but Im not sure if I'd want to trust brake pressures with those. I've used that stuff for oil lines, though. As for fuel, I've bought some really cool hose fittings at Granberry that are basically a flare end for regular 3/8" hose with a swivel AN fitting on the other end. You just use regular fuel hose with them and they are very clean and seal great. - Greg -

Hmm Ive done a fine job taking my Z apart and it's not back together... yet... Oh no! - Greg -

If it's semi-easily reached, drop the downpipe so you can see the turbine outlet and WG flap. Then put your compressed air on the wastegate and verify that it opens. Maybe your WG flap linkage is broken so it looks like it's rotating but really it's just spinning without opening the flap... - Greg -

PB Blaster - A sweet smelling lifesaver that for some reason tends to shoot in random directions when you forget which direction the nozzle is pointing before you press it. Propane torch - A useful tool, especially in conjunction with PB blaster (see above) that is really good at heating objects up to the point where they later burn you. Magnetic pick-up tool - A device so ingenious in concept that for some reason sticks to everything except the object you are trying to pick up. Tool chest - A fantastic way to organize tools that you somehow manage to keep disorganized. Garage Floor - The place for all the tools that should be organized in your tool chest. Shop Vac - That thing that just sucked up that other thing you lost earlier. - Greg -

Id recommend if you want to go over 400 whp, go with the RB. It's not that it can't be done with the SR, but for the money I just dont see the point. It will also be pretty damn laggy at that power level. My problem is Im aiming for the 400 whp level, which makes the choice so much more difficult! - Greg -

So you tested it after removing the MBC and it still overboosts? Is your boost gauge signal taken from the same point as the wastegate signal? Normally I would plumb the WG signal right to the intake plenum, but it really shouldnt matter that much in terms of overboost. If you put it at the plenum, it will take all losses (e.g. IC pressure drop, piping losses, etc.) and open the WG based on the pressure the motor actually sees, not a higher pressure closer to the turbocharger. In other words, your WG will open sooner the closer the signal is to the turbo. I would make sure you test it with no boost controller, and make sure that the vac/boost signal going to the WG is working (use a gauge). Does your new downpipe attach directly to the turbine outlet, or is there some kind of OEM elbow (j-pipe) in between? Could be your new downpipe is preventing the WG flap from opening. - Greg -

No probs, man... Leave it to Greedy to use a whacky wiring scheme Glad you got it figured out! - Greg -

It's also a wise idea to change out the rod bearings before installing a JDM motor in your car. Those motors are frequently run on extended oil change intervals and have a tendency of spinning bearings. It's a lot easier to change the bearings when the motor is out of the car. Cheap insurance. - Greg -