MrFancypants

The custom dash is beautiful. Do you have any pictures of the fabrication process? - Greg -

Looks like it has finally come to BBC America: http://www.bbcamerica.com/tvschedule.jsp - Greg -

Hehe forwarded that picture to the local software support guys... now that is creative! - Greg -

Looks like all the linkages are missing. You'll also need the hvac controls that operate all the linkages. Then you'll need the tubing and vents, and will have to connect in the heater core to the heater core circuit in the engine bay. I'd suggest replacing the heater core with a new one while youre at it -- it's probably all rusty and corroded. I dont see any mention of the fan system either -- thats going to require a bunch more parts and ducting, as well as wiring. Being in Arizona, I dont think I'll be needing heat in my Z. Im considering just adding a small 12V electric heater rather than all the complicated rigging for the stock hvac system. - Greg -

A quick search should tell you that the TC rods are reversed on the 280ZX and therefore non-transferable. - Greg -

Not only didnt you search, you didnt even read the thread!!! - Greg -

The lower support is still there. The upper radiator support is pretty flimsy sheet metal. - Greg -

Now I understand what youre talking about. Same thing on these -- the bushings are meant to be able to rotate both within their mount and around the inner sleeve. The stock bushings would have to either rotate inside the "clamshell" or flex between the sleeve and the rubber because the inner sleeve is pressed onto the control arm. I dont recall the stock bushings being elliptical, but if they are that would restrict all of the motion to flex of the rubber! The ES design is very smooth moving once greased up and installed. Yeah that might be what I have to do if I cant get it on while the suspension is compressed. Good idea! - Greg -

The way I look at it, you are supposed to put the weight of the car on the bolt shank before tightening the ends. Then you capture the ES sleeves between the washers and the bolt cannot move. By your logic you would also be worried about the inner sleeves inside the bushings, but they do not move once captured by the bolt. - Greg -

AN (or JIC) fittings are flared and require no sealant. Also take special note not to overtighten the fittings. They take a lot less torque than you might think to seal. You can overtighten and ruin them easily by galling the flared surface of the male side. As for NPT fittings, I use Loctite on the 3-4th threads of the male fitting before assembly. I imagine you could also use suitable RTV. Also take care not to overtighten an NPT fitting. They are flared slightly such that if you overtighten them they can actually split the walls of the female side. - Greg -

I started with a utility knife then sanded it smooth with some sandpaper. It's not super critical to make it perfect 90* I dont think. I figure the bushing can rotate around the inner sleeve or the outer LCA can rotate around the bushing. Totally lost me there. Are you talking about the rear swaybar? You can use a 5/8 Grade 8 bolt: I used antiseize all over the bolt shank and plugged the holes in the hub for the locking pins. While on the subject of the rear bushing kit, let me know how you get your rear swaybar in with the new ES bushings -- I have found they are too stiff to even get the endlink bolt threaded. Not sure how Im going to get it to work just yet. Maybe it will be easier with the weight of the car on the rear suspension to get the swaybar angle right first. - Greg -

NISSAN seems to love RTV Grey... I suggest getting some you're bound to need it a lot - Greg -

Those are sharp! What size/brand are they? They look like 17's. - Greg -

I had to shave the outer LCA ES bushings in order to get them to fit. They were just a little too thick to press the LCA back in even with lube. The sleeve captured between the hub and the washers on the ends of my homemade spindle pin. The ES lube seems very sticky but it is better than any multi-purpose grease for suspension bushings. It's basically marine grease and totally repels water. - Greg -

Can you send the poster to the tool shed rather than just the thread? - Greg -

www.ultrarev.com - Greg -

Just go to an exhaust shop and get the ends swelled, then use a straight coupler. - Greg -

I was laughing my ass off wondering if anybody was going to explain that HP and TQ are actually completely tied to one another and then finally someone explained it. This was my favorite comment: "Let me try to explain.... ... we all know that larger displacement engines usually produce more torque... larger displacement engines usually have more moving parts.... more moving parts usually means more things going wrong with it... more things going wrong with it usually means less reliable.... but then again... i don't know jack sheeout about cars" The only thing he got right was the last 7 words. I think if someone were to try and explain area under the curve to them and how meaningless a peak figure really is they would all crap their pants. - Greg -

My late 260Z is carb'd and has a tank that looks identical to the 280 tank shown above. The fittings are in the same locations, but I cant verify the baffling or internal pickups as I havent dropped it from the car (yet). - Greg -

Your local AutoZone may sell Berryman's Parts Cleaner (1 gallon bucket), if it's legal in your state. It's pretty harsh stuff but cleans everything off metal. Unfortunately it also strips the cad/zinc coating off if left in long enough, so you should recoat your parts afterwards if you fear rust. - Greg -

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/main.htm?E+coastest

What fell apart exactly? I had problems with the hydraulics (leaked all over the garage floor), then I actually read the instruction manual and found out they shipped it half full of fluid. I replaced it with a new one and checked the fluid before using it -- same problem. So I refilled the reservoir, bled it properly, and it hasnt leaked a drop in ~2 years. If any air is exposed to the seals the cylinder will leak under pressure. I ran into the same problem with my engine hoist from Harbor Freight. I guess that makes for golden rule #2 - always make sure your jack is properly filled and bled before use. - Greg -

Golden words of wisdom there. Costco usually has a pretty good deal on aluminum floor jacks. I think mine has a max height of 18-1/2" and weighs ~40 lb. - Greg -

That's a bummer, Chris. Oh well -- at least your sender is good for another 30 years now - Greg -

You definitely can tell that the Z body panels are very thick gauge compared to current cars. Just think of how light the S30 could be with modern unibody technology! As for the scrap metal market, it has been insane for a few years now, all because of our good friends the Chinese. It's interesting to see us selling all of our scrap and shipping it overseas to be reprocessed and shipped back to us. But it all boils down to supply and demand and scrap metal supply is extremely low compared to the demand. It's even gotten to the point where old blast furnaces are being fired up again because the cheaper electric furnaces arent so cheap given the high cost of scrap steel. - Greg -