MrFancypants

Just get the $40 motor stand. 2000 lb is crazy overkill. The cheaper one may not be foldable, but it's really quick to disassemble and takes up almost no space with the legs off. The big difference in quality on their hoists, stands, cranes etc. is the quality of the paint. I say who cares about the paint -- for $40 you cant go wrong. - Greg -

LMFAO I fell victim just like you!!! It's hard to resist "While youre in there" logic... Im so weak! - Greg -

Youve got an electronic boost controller already, dont you? I second the poly bushing kit. I got mine at www.ultrarev.com. Best price I could find. If your car is your daily driver I would beware though -- the ES bushing kit is not a small project to install and your car will be down for the count. If it were me I would hold off on a suspension until you have the money for coilovers. You could also consider a short shifter. Another idea would be to spend the whole wad on a LSD. With the turbo you need all the traction you can get! - Greg -

You can easily run 15 psi on a daily basis on that motor without any internal changes to it whatsover. I did so for 50K miles. - Greg -

Slip them over the shock rod before you bolt it into the top hat. It protects the shock from bottoming out. - Greg -

The plastic cap is the carb damper. It should have a thin rod attached to it with a brass cylinder on the end. You fill the carb piston with oil (10W30 recommended) and the damper stabilizes movement of the piston. It sounds like your damper is broken if the pin is shooting out the top. Time to get a new one. First you'll need to find out if you have flat or round top carbs. The 260 came stock with flat tops (junk) but they are commonly replaced for the better round top versions from earlier Z's. Check out www.ztherapy.com to read up on the SU carbs. - Greg -

I bought his Wilwood front brake adapters and he shipped 2 days after my order. I'd do business with him again. Does he have a phone number you can call? - Greg -

Ah yes, you'll need to wire in the Autometer sender. 99.9% chance the stock sender will not work with the aftermarket gauge. Now I understand what you were asking... - Greg -

Patents arent really all that meaningful anymore anyway, since they dont protect you from Taiwanese copies. Enter OBX. All you can do is focus on quality, make some statement about "Built with pride in America" and hope your support and commitment to service outweighs the cheap knockoff. Unfortunately most American aftermarket car parts places have atrocious service so there isnt much driving the consumer to stick with the original. Caveat Emptor, indeed. - Greg -

^^^ Those are great prices! - Greg -

Might not help you overly, but I have a SPA dual display digital gauge and it's a well-made piece and their US distributor has good customer service. I needed to replace a sender under warranty and they were very easy to deal with. - Greg -

^^ What he said. Search on "diff mount". My 260Z did exactly what youre describing and the front diff mount was completely failed in two pieces. You can get a brand new stock one for about $50 and it's relatively easy to install. Then there are ways of reinforcing the mount (Search on Ron Tyler) to prevent the new one from tearing. - Greg -

The senders dont supply a voltage. The gauge measures the resistance of the sender. The gauge operates on 12V. - Greg -

http://www.aptfast.com/KN_Additional_Stuff/K&Nfuel%20filters/K&N_fuel_Filters.htm Right on the border of your budget. - Greg -

LMAO.. Amen! Driving stick boils down to one thing == PRACTICE There is no way to teach it. All you can do is explain the basics and then it's up to the driver to learn from experience how to do it best. Ideal launch points depend a lot on the motor's power curve, traction, gearing, etc. There are just too many variables to say "launch at X". You just have to practice. - Greg -

Talk to Leith (Leith280zlt1). He's out of Texas, but can do all the rebuilding for you and has a lot of experience with Z diffs. - Greg -

http://www.thezstore.com/ They have a lot of cool steering wheels and have their own low profile horn button. - Greg -

Ive had the PowerToys from back in the Windows 2000 days... they are fantastic and a MUST HAVE. My personal favorite is the X-mouse configuration (part of TweakUI). Makes your machine handle like a Unix box where the focus follows the mouse. Allows you to work on a backgrounded window. Especially useful when comparing documents or copying text. The other great one is the image resizer. - Greg -

I have the A1000-6. Excellent piece and very responsive. - Greg -

You can save a lot on AN fittings (~50%) if you go with steel rather than aluminum. Some people like blue/red anodizing, though (myself not included). - Greg -

Nobody has added this point yet, so I'll chime in... check the dBA rating of the tools you are looking at. Cheap air tools will be inefficient and LOUD. Spend a little more and save your ears. A good example is my Ingersoll Rand reactionless air ratchet (IR111). It's at least 3 dB quieter than your average ratchet (i.e. half as loud), and spins 300 rpm instead of the usual 150 or so of a cheaper ratchet with the same torque. In other words, it's gobs more efficient and is easy on your ears. Sound is just wasted power! http://www.irtools.com/IS/modelComp_full.asp?item=3039 Also shop for weight. I have an IR impact gun that weighs 4.5 lb -- makes a huge difference when youre under the car! - Greg -

Man.. seems those HF furniture dollies are better suited for moving the car than the HF car dollies! I bought those (~$40/pr) and found the iron casters to be really poor quality, making the car hard to roll around. Maybe I should steal some furniture dolly wheels for them... - Greg -

Sorry... just found out I never followed up on the UF2020 steering rack boot fitment. They fit great! I trimmed off the last step of the inboard side of each boot and they fit perfectly. - Greg -

Im also fixing to put one of these in. Is there any reason to go with the lever style over the knob style? Im also wondering if it's really that necessary to route everything into the cabin or if I should just install it on the firewall right next to the booster/MC where the stock prop valve goes. I was also thinking of using the same location as Pop (there's that nice rubber grommet right under there), but that would require running lines into the trans tunnel. I would think you can leave the stock bias warning sensor in place, but since I am replacing everything I just tore it out. - Greg -

Here's an even better solution: http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37763&highlight=stand It's actually quite sturdy and compact. Designed for the SR, obviously, but you could use a similar concept measured to any motor. - Greg -