MrFancypants

This is mainly the reason. Technology has changed a lot in 30 years. Back in the 70's they didnt give 10+ year corrosion warranties like all the manufacturers do nowadays. They just painted bare metal and hoped for the best. Today you get full chem dip unibodies and much higher quality paint. Your best bet is to look for a Southwest Z. - Greg -

Always found Saleen's to be highly overrated, but I'd definitely take that one for a test drive - Greg -

2" gap is fine - I'd even go a little less (around 1"). Then go to HD and get the 2"x2" AC foam weatherstrip and stuff it in the gap between the IC and radiator. You want to be sure that all air that goes through the IC is forced through the rad. - Greg -

I guess we know who's Bitch in THAT prison. - Greg -

Im trying to figure out how they could make a coupe weigh as much as my truck Saw one of these in Salt Lake last week... the FWD and the funky looking rear end were instant turnoffs. The car's got nothing on the G35 or 350Z. - Greg -

Dick, I think the 280ZX has disc brakes and therefore a different prop valve, right? If that's the case I dont think mine will help you. I did notice there is a 280ZX at our local pick and pull -- not sure if the valve is still there but I can swing by and grab it for you. Knowing them they'll want $20 for it. If you do have drums in the rear then my 260z valve may still work. - Greg -

If the 280ZX has the same prop valve as the 260/280Z I have a used one you can have (just pay shipping). Cant say I know 100% its condition but it should be fine. - Greg -

Sat in one in LA 4-5 years ago at the NISSAN collectors garage they have there. It was a gorgeous silver with black interior. Probably one of main reasons I own a Z today - Greg -

Im simply astounded how someone can not only knowingly break the law, but more importantly knowingly endanger the life of an innocent person carrying an improperly certified package. You should be ashamed of yourself. - Greg -

Like others have said, thanks so much, Mike! Once this comes out in print, please let us know -- I'd definitely like to get my hands on a hard copy. Thanks, Greg.

This is no joke. Shipping a hazardous material without proper certification is a FELONY. - Greg -

From what I've read, if you can only afford the RB20, you may as well get the SR20DET. - Greg -

www.swaintech.com Check out their White Lightning coating. - Greg -

I find the SW stuff to be better quality than AutoMeter, and they look great in the Z dash! You could also try something other than their Max Performance line to get a white needle... - Greg -

Float valve. Definitely sounds like your problem. May as well order two (one for each carb). Could even get a seal/gasket kit and new jets and needles to do a total overhaul. I think you can get just the valves from AutoZone. - Greg -

Yeah I imagine it makes it nice and convenient to CNC all the bridges out of either aluminum or delrin. I would hope that the chassis doesnt flex enough to stress the brake/fuel lines, but maybe rubber/urethane is the better approach. - Greg -

Yep, 3-4K sounds fair to me provided it checks out well in person. - Greg -

I agree 100%. It's a nice car, but it was a sin to call it a GTO. I suggest rebadging it as a Holden But if you really like the car that's all that matters! - Greg -

I was thinking of using the flexible casting urethane compound from McMaster Carr. It's a two part mix that forms like an epoxy and is pretty easy to work with. I've used it for motor mounts before and it works quite well. Should be able to make a mold and cast replacements for the stock parts! Delrin would be neat too, though. - Greg -

All the ES bushings are designed so the center sleeve is captured between the bolt/nut and the frame. Because of this, when you replace bushings that support significant weight (e.g. LCA bushings), you should put the car on the ground before tightening them fully. In the case of the mustache bar, just torque it down to the appropriate spec. - Greg -

Dale - We've got a 2006 G35 Sedan. You'll love it! Great deals on them too with the 2007's out. - Greg -

Spent a lot of time today trying to find some replacements at the local auto parts store. Anybody got a source of cable clips that will work with the stock parking brake cables on 240SX cable brackets? I tried bending mine so they fit more snugly but they still just dont seem to get the job done. The parking brake cable clips are smaller than your conventional brake line clips. - Greg -

If youre referring to the clamping blocks that have brake, fuel feed/return and vent line channels, yes! Any idea on cost? I figured I would have to cast my own out of McMaster Carr urethane. For now I will just reuse the cracked stock clamps, but when I pull the motor and redo the undercoating I would be interested in replacing them all. I think the stock configuration is 5/16 fuel feed/return, 1/4" vent and 3/16" brake. I'd want 3/8" for the fuel feed and keep the rest the stock size. Cheers, Greg.

I think before you know she's "The One" you will have to sleep with her. But that's probably not the best advice for this thread - Greg -

That's right.. unlike the 240Z, the 260Z has a front and rear swaybar standard. Looking at the Energy Suspension bushing kits tells you this http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/nis1.html Great list, Paul. I knew of all those differences but clearly youre better at remembering them all at once! One that was missed was the defroster lines on the early (70-71 IIRC) 240 are vertical while later models are horizontal. - Greg -