ShaggyZ

Wheels out of balance? You might take the driveshaft to be re-balanced - I've heard of a few custom driveshafts recently that were out of balance. Your alignment could be off and steering rack a little loose...

I thought about posting that video but I opted not to for some reason. He's in the first 6 minutes of that nearly 9 minute video!

I don't know if StreetFighter is intending to post here again so I'll go ahead and do it for him. After some bugs were worked out of the system, he's putting down 399rwhp through the auto tranny on pump gas (93 octane here) and 502rwhp on 109 octane, I believe. He may or may not have kicked some serious butt the other night.

I'm assuming you're running 4x114.3-to-5x114.3 adapters, judging by the thickness. Regardless, I sure you got a steal on those wheels to run them with adapters. The big deal about CCW's is the small amount of money for a set of very nice custom wheels.

Looks nice and stolen to me. I'd buy it for that price

Hey! I was there the day you got rear-ended. I'm glad you ended up with a 260Z instead the boat you had before

Sorry, dude, I vote tool shed

I may be missing something, but that seems like a lot of work just to search the word "datsun," especially considering my experience that some of the best Datsun pieces don't even have that word anywhere in the ad. I may have to scheme something pretty efficient - time to bust out my coding skills from back in the day... or something.

I have a few things to say... those are some tall freakin' tires you're planning to run. I don't know how you think that looks any better than running 17's with correct-height tires - but that's you're opinion and you're entitled to it. I'd prefer to run 16's over 17's if good tire sizes were readily/inexpensively available. 17's can look to be smaller or larger depending on the design. Another thing, you could run 275/40/17's in the rear and only be at 25.5", which is pretty close to stock overall height; the size tires you're talking about running in the rear are 26.6" which is worse considering your #2 thought - you end up with very tall gearing, more rotational mass to spin up, down, and overcome with from the perception of it as a gyroscope (harder to steer at speed), and you're handling will be sloppy at best. Going with a properly sized wheel/tire combo (under 25.5") instead of the monstrous height you're talking about, will weigh much less - tires weigh more than most people realize, even as compared to an aluminum wheel. A 40-series tire gets a taller sidewall the wider you go - with a 205/40, your sidewall is 3.2", but with a 295/40 you end up with 4.6" of sidewall. With the size tire you're talking about (and gaging off the picture above), you're talking about, I think, approximately 10 feet of sidewall. I don't mean to bust your balls on this, but I think you have some misperceptions about tire sizes... or, at least, some misexecutions of your perceptions.

Good question. I'd like to do that, too.

Thanks for the feedback. I forgot your IS300 is turbocharged - is it a turbocharged GE or GTE? If you get back to this thread, could you tell me what a comfortable cruising speed (with RPM) is for your IS300 in 6th gear?

Ah... you didn't mention your son is a girl

I posted this in "Drivetrain" a few days ago with no response and decided I'd probably get better results here. ------------------------------ I recently acquired a 3.15 LSD R200 from slow_old car for more money than I should have spent on anything extra I knew I wanted to go lower than the 3.7 LSD, which I bought for $500 with CV's a few months ago BEFORE finally settling on the 2JZ over the L28ET or 4G63 of the GS-T Eclipse. AFTER agreeing to buy it, I finally did research on what a 3.15 final drive ratio will do to my overall gearing and speeds. Aerodynamics, tire stretching, and skidding aside (ha!), at 7k RPM I could hit 208MPH. Of course, I'd have to be making at least 800HP, no doubt; but that's not up to discussion right now as there are so many factors involved there. I really just want to get your thoughts on: how "livable" and streetable will it be, including traffic?; is the gap between gears going to be too great to keep me in the powerband?; will this be sucky for 1/4 mile racing? will this suck for possible road racing I may do in the future?; anything else I need to consider. I fully intend to drive this thing fairly regularly, which is one HUGE reason I went for the 2JZ over L28 - reliability at those power levels. I've just seen too many Z's with too little (read "short") gear through 1st and 2nd, making them completely useless - 1st doesn't even get a chance to load up the engine and turbo. Obviously, a good, sticky, wide tire (at least 245mm) will be in order and the LSD is going to be helpful. Notice that the R154 gearing with reasonable height tires (245/40/17) and the 3.15 rear end is fairly close to the stock Supra setup with its 6spd and taller (stock) tires and similarly geared rear; however, that is spread across 6 gears instead of the 5 of the R154. Also, the Supra weighs in at a minimum 500lbs more than my 280Z (assuming a ~2600lb weight) and I've heard upwards of ~3400lbs for stock twin turbo, 6spd Supras, which makes it ~800lbs difference. I plan on sticking with stock twins for now and will shoot for low 400HP at the wheels minimum and possibly aiming for low 500's eventually. I'll likely upgrade to a T61 or the much-loved-as-a-street-turbo T67 before long. Pay particular attention to the gap between shifts (assuming 7k RPM redline). Lets also assume that the 2JZ can make just over 200HP by 2500RPM and hits 400HP by 5500RPM and the torque isn't far off. I really need to get a dyno graph out - I'm mostly gaging off of dyno vids of Supras, Clifton's powerband, and various other, uh, things. 3.15 LSD R200 with R154 gearing (if link dies, ratios are decipherable in link) http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp?Car=Select&Num1=245&Num2=40&Num3=17&AxleRatio=3.15&Ratio1=3.25&Ratio2=1.955&Ratio3=1.31&Ratio4=1.&Ratio5=0.753&Ratio6=&Ratio7=&Redline=7000&Increment=500&B1=Recalculate Stock MKIV Supra Twin Turbo (specs taken from here: http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm) http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp?Car=Select&Num1=255&Num2=45&Num3=17&AxleRatio=3.266&Ratio1=3.827&Ratio2=2.36&Ratio3=1.68&Ratio4=1.312&Ratio5=1.1&Ratio6=.79&Ratio7=&Redline=7000&Increment=500&B1=Recalculate For reference, here's the speeds for the 3.7 LSD R200 with R154 in the Z. http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp?Car=Select&Num1=245&Num2=40&Num3=17&AxleRatio=3.7&Ratio1=3.25&Ratio2=1.955&Ratio3=1.31&Ratio4=1.&Ratio5=0.753&Ratio6=&Ratio7=&Redline=7000&Increment=500&B1=Recalculate

If you're just talking about the body kit, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AP/50-1500 Next time, try having a search around first.

I've considered getting a 240SX to replace my XR4Ti, but never (maybe) to replace my Z. Bad idea. Sell all your L28 crap and go 2JZ - it's so much better for your heart.

Or, 41:13 = 3.15 in my case I don't mean to be picky (but I am), but it would technically be more accurate to do it this way versus merely trusting the numbers. I only say that because some gears could be misstamped. Of course, you'd need to have a pretty precise way to measure it - that shouldn't be too hard.

It's amazing how small that turbo makes the engine appear. Why no pictures of it installed in the engine bay?

Do some Googling and read this, too - http://auto.howstuffworks.com/muffler5.htm

So cute...

I think that (in bold below) is a bad idea - putting someone who has no experience in a 4000lb vehicle than can't turn or brake. Sure, he's protected, but what about my protection from him when I'm sitting at a light in my Z or coming around a turn on my motorcycle (if I get to ride again thanks to a 18yr old in a little BMW).

Hey! Why don't I get credit for that?!

Seems kinda funny to do that - won't it just dilute itself once it's actually out of the exhaust? I've seen it before but I'm betting it actually helps the remaining fumes burn up in the exhaust system.

I recently acquired a 3.15 LSD R200 from slow old car for more money than I should have spent on anything extra I knew I wanted to go lower than the 3.7 LSD, which I bought for $500 with CV's a few months ago BEFORE finally settling on the 2JZ over the L28ET or 4G63 of the GS-T Eclipse. AFTER agreeing to buy it, I finally did research on what a 3.15 final drive ratio will do to my overall gearing and speeds. Aerodynamics, tire stretching, and skidding aside (ha!), at 7k RPM I could hit 208MPH. Of course, I'd have to be making at least 800HP, no doubt; but that's not up to discussion right now as there are so many factors involved there. I really just want to get your thoughts on: how "livable" and streetable will it be, including traffic?; is the gap between gears going to be too great to keep me in the powerband?; will this be sucky for 1/4 mile racing? will this suck for possible road racing I may do in the future?; anything else I need to consider. I fully intend to drive this thing fairly regularly, which is one HUGE reason I went for the 2JZ over L28 - reliability at those power levels. I've just seen too many Z's with too little (read "short") gear through 1st and 2nd, making them completely useless - 1st doesn't even get a chance to load up the engine and turbo. Obviously, a good, sticky, wide tire (at least 245mm) will be in order and the LSD is going to be helpful. Notice that the R154 gearing with reasonable height tires (245/40/17) and the 3.15 rear end is fairly close to the stock Supra setup with its 6spd and taller (stock) tires and similarly geared rear; however, that is spread across 6 gears instead of the 5 of the R154. Also, the Supra weighs in at a minimum 500lbs more than my 280Z (assuming a ~2600lb weight) and I've heard upwards of ~3400lbs for stock twin turbo, 6spd Supras, which makes it ~800lbs difference. I plan on sticking with stock twins for now and will shoot for low 400HP at the wheels minimum and possibly aiming for low 500's eventually. I'll likely upgrade to a T61 or the much-loved-as-a-street-turbo T67 before long. Pay particular attention to the gap between shifts (assuming 7k RPM redline). Lets also assume that the 2JZ can make just over 200HP by 2500RPM and hits 400HP by 5500RPM and the torque isn't far off. I really need to get a dyno graph out - I'm mostly gaging off of dyno vids of Supras, Clifton's powerband, and various other, uh, things. 3.15 LSD R200 with R154 gearing (if link dies, ratios are decipherable in link) http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp?Car=Select&Num1=245&Num2=40&Num3=17&AxleRatio=3.16&Ratio1=3.25&Ratio2=1.955&Ratio3=1.31&Ratio4=1.&Ratio5=0.753&Ratio6=&Ratio7=&Redline=7000&Increment=500&B1=Recalculate Stock MKIV Supra Twin Turbo (specs taken from here: http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm) http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp?Car=Select&Num1=255&Num2=45&Num3=17&AxleRatio=3.266&Ratio1=3.827&Ratio2=2.36&Ratio3=1.68&Ratio4=1.312&Ratio5=1.1&Ratio6=.79&Ratio7=&Redline=7000&Increment=500&B1=Recalculate For reference, here's the speeds for the 3.7 LSD R200 with R154 in the Z. http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp?Car=Select&Num1=245&Num2=40&Num3=17&AxleRatio=3.7&Ratio1=3.25&Ratio2=1.955&Ratio3=1.31&Ratio4=1.&Ratio5=0.753&Ratio6=&Ratio7=&Redline=7000&Increment=500&B1=Recalculate