ShaggyZ

With a 2JZ-GTE and very similar gearing to a 6spd Supra (utilizing the R154 and a 3.15 rear) plus the fact that the 280Z will weigh at least 600lbs less than the Supra (approaching 800-900lbs) and not being able to stick in as wide a tire, I think it will be just fine. First gear will be a little crappy at first, but better than completely roasting the tires, which I suspect will happen. Still, I appreciate the input.

That sure seems good for 10psi, though having to wind it out that far for the power kinda stinks. Tweak that tune and I'm sure it will be very nice, even for a stock turboed(?) RB26.

Holset Maybe they do mean "coaxle," regarding two axles working together. I'm not sure that really makes sense, though.

I didn't like his act, but I'm still sad to see him go. I think it's because I liked Bill & Ted's Excellent Adventure and Bill & Ted's Bogus Journey so much.

Mine had the same problem. I found out my throttle return spring was broken; so I replaced it with an equally old and brittle spring I had lying around. No problems since.

I think the term you two are looking for is "compliance." Low-profile tires have very little compliance with the road. Some guys think they'll make up for very stiff sidewalls with softer suspension, but you do lose a lot in general grip (sideways and rolling) the stiffer you go on sidewall.

Is the exhaust going to go over or under the battery if you use the battery spot like Ron's? I think with exhaust wrap and/or thermal coating and adequate heat shielding (I'd do a double layer setup) you'll be totally fine. In fact, you could probably just get away with the heat shielding as long as it covers well. There are plenty of cars out there (like my XR4Ti) which have the exhaust running pretty close to the battery. I wouldn't worry about it much. Still, I think putting the battery in back would be best.

Maybe his blow-off valve is just circulated into the airbags.

Small update: I've been trying hard to clean out the garage by selling off the superfluous parts in my garage and I'm finally at a place where I feel I can focus on the install. I had three transmissions, three differentials, and three engines in the garage. It's good to be getting rid of that stuff to make a small amount of money and to not be so cluttered. The project as a whole seems insurmountable as I've never done anything close to this before. It's very helpful to just only think about the first step or I get discouraged. I have to replace the brake system (already installed rear discs), shocks/struts, springs, bushings, fuel system, and install MegaSquirt. I may pass on all of the suspension parts while I work on getting the car actually moving under its own power so I can also take time to save up a little more money for the suspension, wheels, and tires.

I realize he's made his decision, but I'd like to add one thing. While lighter weight does help a car's handling, is it necessarily true that a SR20DET install will handle any better than a RB install? I'm not so sure just removing weight from the front necessarily makes a better handling vehicle. I think the extra weight versus the SR20DET will be more than welcome in a raced Z because of the greater power potential and the fact that the weight and balance will be close (and probably better) with a well-installed RB.

^^I've always loved that car^^

Low compression shouldn't do that and your compression isn't terrible. Does it still knock since you removed that piece?

That's what I was thinking

My wife is 6 months pregnant with our first child. I refused to recognize her as a mother for Mother's Day and was unwilling to accept Father's Day gifts. So all I got was a "Happy Pre-Father's Day" salutation from a friend of mine.

(must...resist...tears...while thinking about my own soon-to-be-born daughter)

I'm assuming you weighed it with the running L28 in there, right? (as opposed to no engine at all). I'm definitely interested to see the change the 2JZ makes. I'm sure it's heavier than the L, but you'll likely have it sitting at least a few inches back from the stock location. Keep us informed!

Every little bit can surely help. It's not just the heat inside the intercooler, but the fact that there is a radiant heat coming from the bottom end-tank and rising to warm the top one from the outside. It's trivial and it may make no appreciable difference, but it would HAVE to have some effect, right?

I could rock that. Very cool swap. Very clean. 7.0L!!

Building one comes along without REQUIRED payments. I can stop building my Z anytime to stop spending money if I need to. If I buy a $12k Z in cash, that's a lot of money to be out at one time; I don't have that much money lying around, so I'd have to get a loan then I'd HAVE to make payments each month. Or I could save up for 5yrs to buy one like the orange one... but then I'd have no Z to look at for 5yrs and call my own - plus, I'd probably end up having to spend that saved money in an emergency.

Look in the Nissan V6 section inside the 6 cylinder forum. You might find something there... I don't know.

Hey! I didn't do that! By the way, I received the stuff in good order. Haven't really looked hard at them as I've been pretty busy. I've had EXACTLY the same problem.... "no, I will not sell you my windshield - the ad says engine and transmission related parts only!"

I'll sell you my 3.15 LSD R200 for $2000.

I don't have time to write up a good story right now, but here are the preliminary pictures of the 2JZ-GTE hanging into the engine bay. It's really just for motivation because I know it fits thanks to a number of pioneering members. List of points: - bought this '77 off ebay on July 4th, 2007 but a terrible motorcycle accident, marriage, moving, and a baby on the way has put off the project for quite awhile - it sat for 10 years before I bought it - lots of suspension and brake parts need to be replaced/upgraded - just bought a 3.15 LSD R200 to go with the R154 I got for free - I'm debating using the stock twins or spending another $1000+ to go single now. - the 2JZ comes off ebay for $1500 from a guy who was going to use it in his Mustang to compete in some class of drag racing which changed from 2 power adders to 1, so he couldn't use N2O to spool up his monster turbo. The engine is from an Aristo but the seller put on a Supra mid-sump oil pan. I prefer the Aristo engine because it's less likely to have been beat on as compared to a Poopra engine. (click for larger pictures)