ShaggyZ

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_soarer

Like you said, it'll probably run rich. You'd run into issues particularly when the TPS hits the full throttle contact - maybe only then. Modern 4-cylinder engines are as strong as the L28

I think that's a bad idea. You could simply limit the travel of the linkage, though. But think this all out practically so that you're not limiting the power so much that it's dangerous (like trying to get on a highway)... and also making people think the Z's are slower than they are

Is that your subtle ploy to make people feel bad for getting in better shape than you?

A more complete question would be nice. What is "best" to you? Which model Z do you have? To me, sticking with the stock speedo is "best" because I want to retain a stock appearance and retain the original odometer mileage. I'm told the stock S30 speedometer cable mounts directly into the R154 transmission with little-to-no modification. Do some searching and you should find a little more information. You can use "clifton" as the user name to search by in the advanced search criteria.

There are plenty of little things to distinguish them. For starters, a 2JZ is a 3.0 (3000cc) engine whereas the 1JZ is a 2.5 (2500cc) engine. See that "2500" on the cam cover? Also, in the US, the SC300's never came turbocharged from the factory. They only came with the non-turbo variant of the 2JZ, the 2JZ-GTE. It is clear he did the ever-popular 1JZ-GTE swap, so it's essentially the same car as the Toyota Soarer in Japan. It's a very straight-forward swap.

OLLLLLLDDDD By the way, there are technically muffler bearings, kinda.

Please do. As silly as it sounds, I almost bailed on an engine swap because I wanna keep the stock tach and speedo and the hood latch

It's okay to use. Plenty of people have done it. EDIT: I mean... no, you're in big trouble! You should buy my N47 head for $150 shipped!

I think I'm too young to have any unclaimed property I can't remember.

I've often pondered using a 944T oil pump to circulate the oil before and after engine running - save gas, save engine.

It's been my experience that jokes that are put on the back burner, saved for a rainy day are best left there. It's the spur of the moment jokes that are funny. Sorry

Hard line is WAY cheaper and you don't have to follow the factory lines exactly. I think it's NHRA that has rules about having more than a certain length of braided line - seems like it's 4ft, but that's too short.

For real... what does she think he is? A barbarian?

This has all been covered.... or am I missing a different angle you're taking?

Slow for me at home, as well. I'm in IT (Info Technology) and am well educated in computer systems security and networking through school and experience and I can't figure out why.

It could unless you're sure both valves are closed. Isn't that TDC?

You could cut it with a Dremel. That's semi-quick and very dirty and you'll probably have to get a new something after that. I just took mine off last night by sticking a little 2"x2" block of wood up in the crank where the counterweights are swinging around. My wife turned the breaker bar connected to the bolt with a 1 1/16" socket to pinch the board in there, then I got over there and gave it a little turn and it came free. One thing to know here is, to my surprise, that bolt only seemed to be on with about 50 ft/lbs of torque - expected it to be around 100 ft/lbs If you can, try getting two blocks in there to more evenly distribute the load - one block toward the front and another toward the back. There is a possibility you could damage your crank, but I and a friend of mine have both successfully done this without damage to the crank. Good luck.

I've only ever heard it's fine to use the MLS gaskets. I dare you!

Very cool, but I'm thinking, with all the fab work being done, it would have been better to start from scratch! Geez!

You might ask a mod to move this to a different section. I realize you're doing a Toyota L6, but it would get much more attention in the "Model Specific" forum.

You're hardly a wise-ass when it takes you over 2 years to come back with that

Looks pretty cool, but I'm not sure what it is. It almost looks like an L-series motor.

Shock kills transmissions. Be nice to your transmission. Learn to shift smooth, then make it fast - your transmission, clutch, and differential will thank you. That said, I've been told that the 4-speeds are stronger than the 5-speeds of the same year. They generally have the same ratios except the 5-speeds have that final gear. My buddy's 240Z is pushing 250 turbocharged horsepower at the wheels and he keeps killing 5-speeds; he's been on a 4-speed for quite a while. He also keeps skinny tires on the car so he can't get enough traction to break anything

Go MegaSquirt. I don't think anyone here would tell you going with that engine is a bad idea. In fact, I and many others would love to do something like that. I've tossed around the idea of a L28ET dune-buggy, too. There's no good reason to go with anything other than the Nissan transmission whether you go auto or 5spd. Get it going soon and take lots of pictures!