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HybridZ

Silver Mine Motors

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Everything posted by Silver Mine Motors

  1. Been working 240z. Installed front and rear wilwood brake upgrades. Installation was easy. Also installed new Tie rods, Ball joints, Rack Boots, Lowering Springs and Tokico Shocks. Finished most of the engine just waiting for parts. Also need to change the fuel hard line since it's leaking. I made these how to install videos for the brakes:
  2. Update: We installed the accessory and belt system. Aluminum radiator and Taurus fan with all hoses and water block off plugs. Sent PCM out to get flashed. Started building intake system. Currently working on all the wiring and sensors. We are getting very close to starting this beast. So excited to hear it run. I can't wait to start working on my favorite part; brakes and suspension.
  3. Still working hard on the 240z. Been buying many parts and prepping the engine for the first start. Changed the clutch master cylinder with a Tilton unit. Running fuel lines and filters, changing oils, installing sensors and wiring. Deleted the A/C and powersteering pumps. Had a drive shaft made. Installed a WALBRO 255LPH fuel pump, and more.
  4. Finally got the car back from the paint shop. It looks Looks beautiful! Been hard at work. Re-installing body parts, Changing bushings, sway bars and Installing the Lt1 engine and T56 trans. So far things are moving fast with minimal complications. Here's a few pictures
  5. It's still getting painted, It's been over 2 months now
  6. Here is my experience. I had a 260z with toyota s12w calipers and 300zx rotors in front. The rear had maxima calipers and 300zx rotors with our custom bracket. Stock proportion valve. With this setup the front brakes would lock up early. I locked my front brakes before going into a turn and lost my steering and just kept going straight because front wheels were locked. That's when I started looking for the largest caliper ever made with e-brake function. I built the mustang rear kit and installed it on the same car. Result was almost perfect bias with slightly more in front. Then I installed a wilwood adjustable prop valve on the front line, turned it down a bit and the bias felt like a factory brake system. Many customers have told me that they did not need the prop valve at all since they drive straight and want the extra front bias. Hope that helps.
  7. Our stage 4 rear kit (mustang calipers and 11.8" rotors) can fit under most 15 inch wheels but you'll need a 1/4 spacer. Or it will fit under all 16 inch wheels. http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/stage-4-rear-big-brake-kit Our rear disk conversion (maxima caliper with 300zx 11.4" rotor) will fit under 14 inch wheels. This kit is not much of a performance upgrade. http://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/240z-260z-280z-rear-brake-upgrade-disk-conversion-kit Let me know if you guys have any other questions.
  8. You either have a stock 240z or 280z rotor. Easiest way to find out is to measure the thickness of the part of the hub between the rotor mounting surface and wheel mounting surface. The 280z hub is 25MM thick while the 240z hub is 16MM Thick. 240z hub uses 240z rotor and 280z hub uses 280z rotor. Hope this helps.
  9. The sale is on now! Just made the post yesterday. Here is the thread. If you don't mind leave a comment on it so it is bumped up. Contact me with the parts you need. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120774-brake-upgrades-on-sale-for-january/ I got the car from A fellow hybridz member, he made the post and I jumped on it the next day. Check the for sale section on the second page you'll see the add he made.
  10. I might look into adding some support behind the firewall in the future. The car is getting paint now. Even though the firewall is flimsy I'm sure the braces will help at least slightly. Thanks for your input guys!
  11. I took pictures of the car with the engine inside, we tried to weld them in so they would not interfere. It looks like it's going to be OK to me. Why, have you had that problem?
  12. Yes I did consider it, but decided not to go that route. Idealy If i put in a 10 pt. roll cage it would connect to the firewall. This is a very basic roll cage not for organized racing. My main goal was to stiffen up the chassis and connect the rear towers to the front of the car. The wheels are 17x9 -13 in the front and 17x9.5 -19 in the rear rota RBrs. I think they don't make them, but look up rb-x model, they look the same.
  13. Finished the 6 point roll cage and front shock tower support. Roll cage came out Really nice. Getting in the car is still fairly easy, which was am important factor for me. I'm 6 foot tall so we had to make room for the seat to go back more than originally planned. This should make the chassis more rigid and safe in the event of an accident.
  14. Been raining here in CALI finally. I found a LT-1 T56, clutch, basket, bell housing, flywheel, bearing, slave cylinder, hydraulic line, all for $1100 on Craigs list. Also finished cutting fenders and welding rear inner and outer fenders together. Next I'll install the 8PT. roll cage, and then off to paint.
  15. Update: Started cutting original fenders off to make room for big wheels and to install ZG Fender Flares. It was so hard to Take a hand grinder to my perfect fenders, but it had to be done in order to have the 275's in the rear. Here's a few pictures. Also bought a 8Pt. roll cage to stiffen up the body.
  16. I've been doing quite a bit of traveling and I have to say Encino is nice. Great surfing, hiking, nature, Snow, Weather Ect. I got a press pass to the LA Auto Show today. Look at this Jaguar, looks like an S30 from the side.
  17. I bought the car with the rebuilt LT1 engine so why not keep it. I don't want to sell it, add money to get a used LSx. Today I removed the drive train and de-greased the engine bay to prep for paint. Also removed all the lights, exterior parts. Going to install some fiber glass ZG fender flares to clear the 17x9.5/9 Rota RB wheels tomorrow. Also need to start looking for a T56. I think I'm looking for one that came out of a Camaro with an LT1.
  18. Just bough this BEAUTIFUL 1971 240Z from Texas without even seeing the car in person. I'm amazed How clean this car is. Frame is straight and rust is extremely minimal. All the regular rust areas are clean! I have a rebuilt LT1 and 4l60e with zero miles, planning on selling the 4l60e and getting a T56. Anyway Here is the car, I started stripping it for paint. Will pull drive train tomorrow after I get my cherry picker back from my friend. He borrowed it 2 years ago
  19. 1979 Toyota pickup truck front calipers will bolt on and work with your stock rotors. If your going to buy calipers you might as well use these, they are 4 piston calipers with larger pads. Require 15 inch wheels.
  20. Pads on the 300zx Vs. Toyota 4runner calipers are interchangeable, Though the 300zx has Very slightly larger pad surface area. Reason These brackets are not produced is because the 300zx calipers are hard to find, soon they will not be available. Stock has been low for years. Toyota 4runner calipers are readily available. Price for a 300zx caliper is almost the same as buying a brand new wilwood caliper. You might as well get your self a Wilwood caliper brake upgrade. They have Much larger pads, 12" rotors, 41MM dia. caliper pistons for $875 complete. Also on the front brake kit with 300zx calipers and rotors. You'll need to use a shorter rotor. The 300zx rotors won't fit in the stock mounting area since they are to tall. They will hit the stock caliper mounting ears.
  21. We have put together five lug Z 31 hubs with Toyota forerunner front brake upgrades. If you want Wilwood I say get Z 31 hubs clean them up, change the bearings and races. Then get Our front super light wilwood kit. We would have to make you a custom spacer $110. The spacers are needed to move the Wilwood rotor in line with the caliper. I could also get Z31 hubs cleaned in acid bath, new bearings and races for $310 the hub will move your wheel out 3/4 inch, but that's good because many 5 lug wheels call for such an offset. as for the rear, It depends on your HP, you can get re drilled stub axles for lower HP safely, but if you have more than 300 WHP then I would recommend billet stub axles. earlier you asked if 5 lug was necessary. I say NO, I say don't fix it if it's not broken! 4 lug works fine, it can take power. Only reason I would convert is if your stuck on a particular wheel.
  22. Wow looks like quite the project. I'll be following your progress.
  23. OK it will take me a while to finish designing/ making the high Hp stub axles. I'll make a post once the first prototype is done. Thanks for the input!
  24. I can add material using a mig welder if it is requested. Just let me know when you order.
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