Silver Mine Motors

i forgot to tell you that the best option is coil overs. if you get those you can choose how high you want it and how stiff you want it.

maybe just get stock springs and very good shocks, and if you want it to handle better also get sway bars. either than that i don't think there are stock size springs that are stiffer that don't lower your car. they all lower it about an inch or so. make sure you have the 280z stock spring hat (i think that's what they call them) since the 240z is about an inch shorter. which makes the car that much lower.

what do you mean by shave the rear bumper? how do you do this and how will it look. do you have any pictures?

Ok I built a devise that is working. I am able to lean out my mixture and richen it up as well. There is also a position that will give me the stock settings. This position just reconnects the wires together. So what I did was use a three position switch. One position was lean mode one was rich and the other was just reconnecting the stock wires were they are suppose to be. In rich mode it connected the signal that comes out of the temp sensor to a potentiometer. The more resistance I put on the wire the richer it gets. I used a 500 ohm potentiometer but I think I should have used a 1000. For lean mode I basically just connected the constant wire to the out put of the temp sensor wire. But before I connected them together I put a potentiometer on the wire of the constant. The less resistance you put on the constant wire the less gas is used. In stock mode I just reconnected the wires to their original places. Now I can fully adjust my fuel mixture from inside my car. I don't expect you guys to know what I just said so here is a picture I drew on Photoshop to help you understand what I did. It’s not that good so rontyler if you want you can remake a better one. Or anyone else. Go for it. Hope this helps, and yes it did work. The second I flip the switch the computer adjusts in a second.

from what i understand his "lean mode" is achived by connecting the two wires (that go to the temp sensor) toghther. by doing this you will be as lean as possible becouse there is no resistance at all. is this right? right now my car is running pretty rich so i'm trying to lean it out. don't make fun but i drew this picture. tell me if it's right.?

wait so the only way to lean out my ratio is by manually adjusting my afm?

Ok I made a unit to hook up to my temp sensor. The unit is going to have two settings: rich, lean, and original. I’ll take some pictures tomorrow. I have one last question. Today I went to look at the car and I noticed there were two temp sensors and one smaller sensor with just one wire coming out of it. The other two sensors had two wires each. My question is which one of the two sensors is the one I have to connect the adjustable unit I made to. Just tell me which sensor to connect it to in terms of the sensor closest to the passenger side (right) or the sensor closer to the driver’s side (left) of the engine. If you look at them you will notice one is closer to the left and the other one is closer to the right. Thanks in advance.

ok now i get it. thank you nigle!

So basically your temp sensor is plugged in, and you cut the line going to the ecu. Then you put a switch with three settings. One setting just reconnects the wires. The other two also reconnect the wire but they have resistors on them. One question what are we changing in the line of the temp sensor. The volts or amps? Or? Also just to be sure how exactly did you test the resistance in the temp sensor lines? I get the process you did but you used a multimeter right? And you were checking for amps or volts? just to be sure the way to know what the resistance in the lines are at different times in engine temperature is by testing the line that goes to the temp sensor and then testing the line coming out of it and going to the ecu. What ever the difference is, is what you would call n1, l1 or r1 right?

I really feel stupid, but i don't know whats going on in this picture. Could you talk about it some more. I don't really know much about electronics so keep it in simple terms. Tell me what parts i have to buy. What parts go were. tell me how it's working for you. Maybe draw a picture, that might help me. Thanks noddle

Ok well i guess i'm going to think about playing with the temp sensor and see how i like it. Thank you guys very much for your extensive input on the topic. i've read it twice so far and i learned somthing new each time. feel free to keep your conversation going!

ok so now we know that resistors don't drop the volts in a current. so in order for this to work what has to be changed in the current. volts?

but if i did that the engine would not self adjust to temperature right? so i would have to play with it all the time.?

so if i put a potentiometer on the temerature sender would it be possible to make it more lean? also what if i put a potentiometer on the afm wire. would that let me adujst the ratio leaner.

so do you think this is possible?

Hey guys, I was searching to see how to adjust my fuel ratio on my 280zs air flow meter. I found this link which describes how the air flow meter works and also how to adjust it. Here is the link http://www.pbase.com/bronte/gallery/afm_adjustments it basically says that the air flow meter sends an electronic signal in the form of volts to the cars computer. The more air passing through the air flow meter the more volts it sends to the computer. So this is my idea: I started to think instead of opening the air flow meter and manually adjusting it to what we want, why cant we just put an adjustable resistor on the wire that sends the signal to the computer. The point of the adjustable resistor would be to adjust the number of volts the air flow meter sends to the computer. This would be good because we would be able to adjust our fuel ratios when we are driving. All we do is put the adjustable resistor in the car. So what do you guys think? would this work? Am I on to something?

are you seriouse? i thought they were 260z rims. can you show were you got this information so i can be sure.

maybe it's your brake booster i had the same problem twice. the first time i realized that the pressure pipe was not pluged into the boster and the second time the booster was just worn out.

sorry for jacking your thread i hate making new onces since this topic is so opinionated. right now i have eibach 12 inch springs in front and back. i'm adujsted to 2 in the front and 1 in the back. wheelman do you think it would be to stiff if i put my 275 fronts in the back and put new 250 in the front. i live in l.a. and there are a lot of bumpy streets.

ask motorsport about reupolstered door panels i talked to them and think they said it cost 150 each. if i was you would just get an eftermarket seat. or find another upulstery shop. i got my seats rebuilt for 300 with vinil. and i got the carpet done for $180. installed with parts included.

so does anyone have 200lb f and 225lb r springs on there car now. if so how does it feel? comfortable? i'm going to order new springs today if i can get a response.

you know maybe it's becouse my suspention is just to stiff i've got coilovers with 325 spring rate springs in the back and 275 in the front. i've been driving my car as a daily driver for just over a year and i'm ready to sell this car becouse it's so stiff. i can't remember the ride quality before i did the suspencion upgrade so i don't know if it will be comfortable. but right now it's not! so you guys think the s30 is a comfortable car? tell me what spring rates you have, so i can buy new springs maybe today. i really don't want to sell it but i've got to unless i can make the ride more comfortable. by the way i'm only twenty years old.

s30 is a great car don't get me wrong, but keep in mind they aren't very comfortable to drive in. especially at hight speeds. good for weekends and to have somthing to work on. personally i'm thinking of selling my s30 and getting a 350z. there going for around $13000 right now. that's cheap for what you get. i really wish i could have both becouse this dilema is killing me. everyday i change my mind. as for the 300zx i'd rather have the s30.

i installed the s12+8 non vented caliper setup on my car today and it fit perfect under the stock 260z wheels. so if you don't want to get new rims the stage 3 kit will work for you. here are the pictures of the rim i tested since i'm not sure if the 240z and 280z rim is different.

I saw your post and I’m pretty sure the s128 caliper brake kit will fit under stock rims. I’ve got the s128 caliper sitting in front of me rite now and from my measurements I doubt it won't fit. The caliper is only about an inch higher that the top of the rotor witch is 10.7 inches in diameter. So that's about 11.7 inches from the top of the s128 caliper to the bottom of the non vented rotor (when they are assembled with the caliper on the rotor, the way they are when they are on the car). So if your rim is 14 inches then you should have 2.4 inches of space between the inner lip of your rim and the top of the mounted caliper. if you don't understand my description of what I just typed I don't blame you but I could take a picture and post it so you can get a better idea of what I’m trying to say. I know for a fact that the s128 caliper does not stick out past my 280z hub like the s12w caliper does. I’m pretty sure the 240z and 280z hub have the same offset. But maybe someone could confirm this.? So what my point is is that the s128 caliper will fit with your stock rims. Next weekend or maybe even this week I could install the s128 caliper on my car and try to put on the stock rims to see if it works. I’ll also take pictures for you. If it works then you could buy my stage three kit. Go to this link to read about it.